The Vodice Highland (Vodiška planina) from Kropa

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To say the weather last week the past two weeks has been awful would be a gross understatement so best not to mention it! Fortunately, yesterday and this morning the sun finally made a brief, but very welcome return. I even managed a short bike ride this morning which was a bonus as I thought the cycling season was all but over, though I probably looked something more like Michelin Man, wrapped up as I was in copious layers.

Yesterday a friend and I made a short trip up to the Vodice highland (Vodiška planina), which is at 1118m above the village of Kropa. Vodiška planina is a popular destination for hikers and cyclists, who also like to visit the Partizan hut (Partizanski dom) for refreshments. The hut, and its predecessor which stood in the same place, have had a long history. During both World Wars it served as a gathering place for communists from the Gorenjska region and nearby, in 1936, was the location of the first partizan conference of the Jesenice district. It was also here that in 1941, that a resolution was passed for the beginning of the Gorenjska uprising and on a nearby highland the Cankar Batallion was founded. Vodiška planina and other parts of the Jelovica plateau played an important role in the formation of organisations against the enemy occupators. Every year, on the first Saturday in August, a gathering is held at the Partizan hut, in memory of the Yugoslav Front, otherwise known as the National Liberation War (Narodnoosvobodilni boj), with a memorial service and accompanying entertainment programme.

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It is also possible to continue from the hut towards one of the highest points of the Jelovica plateau, Črni vrh (1304m). Just a few minutes further, there is a viewpoint which offers far reaching views across the broads Radovljica plains, to the east and west along the valley and to the facing Karavanke mountains and further towards the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

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Since living in Slovenia I have undertaken a number of things to keep myself afloat. These days I mostly work doing translating (from Slovene to English) and proofreading. However, I have also done a number of other things including, some time ago, writing a new tourist guidebook about Slovenia, ‘SLOVENIA IN YOUR HANDS‘ which has recently been published and, even if I say so myself, looks great! The book is available in English and German and will soon be on sale in the Tourist Information Centre in Radovljica and elsewhere. If anyone is interested in seeing/ordering it, just get in touch (favourable discounts may apply!).

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 The Chopin Golden Ring competition (Chopinov zlati prstan) will soon be returning to Radovljica. The international competition, which takes place annually at the end of October and is now in its 9th year, transforms the old town centre of Radovljica into a lively, creative centre for young musicians from all over the world. This year’s competition will take place from the 26th – 30th October. In addition to the piano competition, there are concerts and events which can be attended by the public. More about the events and tickets, can be found here – http://www.chopin-goldenring.si/koncerti.html. As an event opener, there will be an introductory concert taking place this week, on the 15th October, an Evening of Spanish Music and Poetry, to be held in Radovljica Library at 19.30, entry is free.

The Slovene Coast, To Koper – Part Two!

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Brrrr, it’s been freezing this week, unseasonably so. Usually this time of year can bring some nice warm days and with it some nice hikes in the mountains to enjoy the autumn colours. However, this week its been coats, hats, gloves and mugs of tea all round! I’m still optimistically hoping for an Indian summer, or at least a few nice warm autumn days – it can’t be winter, not yet!

How different to the previous week when I was basking in sunshine at the coast, more about which I promised to write this week. I packed so much into my day out at the coast there was too much to write. So if you didn’t read it, check out last week’s blog to read part one of my day out!

Slovenia only has a small coast line – 42kms to be precise. But as the saying goes ‘Small things come in big packages’ and this is certainly true. Koper is Slovenia’s largest coastal town and home to the country’s only port. It is therefore very much a working town and on first glance, looks somewhat industrial. However, it is worth a visit to the compact old town centre which has a hidden charm; narrow streets, town squares and several impressive buildings. An increasing number of cruise ships also now call at Koper.

The centre of the old town is Tito’s Square (Titov trg), which is dominated on the south side by the city hall Praetorian Palace (Pretorska palaca) whilst on the northern side of the square is the Loža (Loggia) building which was formerly used as a debating club for the townsmen but today houses a cafe and art gallery. Some of the other buildings of note in Koper are the Cathedral of St. Mary’s Assumption, the 36m bell tower opposite it (climb it for great views), and Brutti Palace in Revolution Square (Trg Revolucije).

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Koper doesn’t have much in the way of a beach but the paved embankment area has plenty of benches, a wide paved area and far reaching views and is a great place to just sit and soak up the views before or after a stroll around the town.

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Numerous events are held in Koper throughout the year but the one that I always make a beeline for is the Sweet Festival – Sladka Istra – held annually in September. For someone as sweet-toothed as me, it is heaven; stall after stall offering all manner of cakes, biscuits, drinks, chocolates and other heavenly sweet delights. I spent a plesant couple of hours browsing the stalls, tasting, deciding what to buy, sitting enjoy the sun, people watching and soaking up the atmosphere.

This week a new photograpy exhibition opened in the Mansion House (graščina) in Linhart Square in the old town centre of Radovljica. The photographer, Tomaž Sedej, is my neighbour so of course I was intrigued to go along and see his work. The photos are of children, taken over a long period of time, in different situations and environments and he has successfully captured some of their unusual adventures in more informal manners. I’m no expert but the photos really are quite unique and its well worth stopping by if you are passing. The exhibition is in the Pasaža Gallery (Galeria Pasaža) in the entrance hall of the mansion house and is open at all times for free viewings from 1st – 31st October.

Whilst in the area, you might also be interested in the following events taking place in, or near, Radovljica next weekend. On Saturday 12th October, there will be a Family Activity Day in the village of Ljubno. Beginning at 10am at the football playing fields, the day will include orientation adventures, nordic walking, a market and more. On Sunday 13th October, there will be a concert in the Radovljica Mansion House, performed by the Radovljica Veterans Choir. The concert will begin at 6pm and entrance is free.

A day out – from Radovljica to the coast!

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Almost five days it’s been. Five long days. I know I’m forever waxing lyrical about the beauties of Radovljica and its surroundings, but anyone visiting this region of Slovenia during the past days would be forgiven for thinking I’ve been talking rubbish since all that has been apparent to the eye for those five days has been low, white lingering cloud. Not a hint of blue sky or sunshine, not a forest or mountain in sight. So, today it was time to get wily and outfox the weather! And I did and I felt smug! It’s quite often the case that whilst there might be low cloud in the valley, if you get up high enough, you can be bathed in glorious sunshine and, looking down over the cloud.

So this morning I set off on foot from home towards Jelovica, the plateau that dominates the backdrop to Radovljica, and within a little over an hour of leaving home, I found it – the elusive sun! I continued up to the Goška ravan highland and then reluctantly began to return back towards Radovljica where, I’m pleased to report the sun, albeit briefly, peeked through the clouds and the forecast looks decidedly better for the remainder of the week, if still unseasonably cold.

One of the advantages of living in a small country like Slovenia, is the ability to be able to get pretty much anywhere in the country within a couple of hours. I’ve never been overly interested in the seaside and certainly not sunbathing, the mere thought of it bores me to tears. However, the occasional day trip to the Slovene coast is a real treat; a change of scenery, the warmer climate zone, the different flora and fauna, food etc. So last weekend, to coincide with the Sladka Istra Festival, I set off towards Koper. Wanting to make a whole day of it, I started early and stopped to walk first on Nanos, then later on Slavnik, before reaching Koper.

The vast Nanos plateau forms an extention of the Dinaric Alps and is 6kms wide and 12km long. The highest point is Suhi vrh at 1313m. However, the most often visited part of Nanos is the mountain hut ‘Vojkova koča‘, which stands a little lower at 1240m. The hut, established in 1949, was named after the national hero Janko Premrl (1920-1943), who was born in the nearby village of Podnanos, and whose statue can be seen adjacent to the hut.

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There is a choice of routes and start points which lead to the top. I left the motorway at Razdrto, around a hours drive from home, and parked in the large parking area in the village, which is specifically intended for those visiting Nanos, such is its popularity. From here the steep path ‘strma pot‘ leads, as the name implies, fairly steeply up and involves a little scrambling and a couple of exposed section where steel cables are in place to assist. Following this path, it takes little over an hour to reach the hut. The more level path ‘položna pot‘, takes a little longer, but is more suitable for those wishing to avoid the rocky sections, or with children. Either path offers far-reaching views over the Vipava Valley and towards the coast.

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Nanos, and the whole of the Primorska region of Slovenia, is subject to ‘burja‘ winds, hurricane strength winds, which can reach speeds of up to 200km an hour and can sometimes last for days and be very destructive. 3 of the 4 times I have visited Nanos, it has been incredibly windy and so one must always be well prepared and have additional warm clothing and perhaps an extra stone or two in your rucksack to stop you getting blown away!

From Razdrto, I continued on the motorway to the exit for Podgorje and the walk to Slavnik. At 1,028m, Slavnik is one of the highest peaks in the Istria region and a very popular destinations for hikers and cyclists. Again, there are numerous ways of reaching the top and a choice of steeper or easier paths. I chose the steep direct route up from Podgorje, which really isn’t that steep at all, and leads easily and gradually uphill, taking about an hour to reach the top where the hut ‘Tumova koca‘ stands, named after the mountaineer Henrik Tuma.

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By the time I reached Koper, I had certainly earnt my sweet treats at the Sweet Festival! More about which, and about Koper itself, I will write next week.

On Sunday 6th October, the annual walk around the village of Otoče and its surroundings will begin at 8am, commencing at the train station at Otoče. The 10 euro fee will include around 4 hours of guided walking, 2 hours of sightseeing and lunch.

Hiking and mountain huts in Slovenia

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Hiking is a very popular past time in Slovenia. One might even go so far as to call it a national passion and none more so than here, where I live, in the Gorenjska region, home to the Karavanke and the Julian Alps.

There are over 170 mountain huts in Slovenia and many people base their trips to the mountains around visiting one of the huts. The huts vary in their style, accommodation and the food and drink on offer. However, at the very least there is always a cup of warming local tea and some type of soup or stew available.

Whilst the food varies from hut to hut, typical food found in most of the Slovene mountain huts includes ‘jota‘ – a thick soup containing sauerkraut, and potato, ‘ričet‘ – a thick soup containing pearl barley and vegetables – usually these soups can be ordered with meat (sausage or other pork meat) or without (for vegetarians) and various types of sausage. For something sweet, the staple offerings include ‘jabolčni zavitek‘ – apple strudel and/or ‘palačinke‘ – pancakes. The food is pretty standard throughout the year, its isn’t seasonally adjusted, often due to the constraints of getting the food to the huts and the limited storage facilities within so even in the height of summer be prepared for steaming hot soup and comfort food!

Talking of food, you know you must be eating too much pizza when you actually end up having a pizza named after you, as I now have! Pizza Adele, as seen below, now features on the new menu at one of my favourite restaurants, Pizzeria Ema in Srednja vas pri Bohinju, where they have HUGE pizzas. I probably should add that I didn’t eat the whole thing – half lasted until the next day! Give it a try if your passing!

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Woops, went slightly off topic there – back to mountain huts! Češka koča, located in the Kamnik–Savinja Alps, above Jezersko, has a very different appearance to the other mountain huts in Slovenia, due to it having been built by the Czech Branch of the mountain association, hence the name Češka koča, meaning Czech hut. It was officially opened in 1900 and has been renovated several times since then, but still retains its original appearance.    

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There are a number of options for reaching Češka koča. Together with 2 friends, we took one of the 3 paths which begin at Ravenska kočna (1080m) and climbs up to the hut at 1542m. The path is marked with the usual red and white circular markations and is easy to follow. The path begins rather steeply up through the forest and later, in places there are wooden ladders and a few exposed sections where this is steel cable to assist, but it is well secured and is not technically demanding.

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From the hut, there are also a number of other tours that can be made, such as to hut Kranjska koča na Ledinah or to the peaks of Grintovec, Kočna or Skuta. However, all the paths from here are rated as ranging from partly to highly demanding and should therefore only be undertaken by experienced and well-equipped hikers.

This coming week, Lambergh Chateau and Hotel in Dvorska vas, near Begunje are hosting 2 events. On Tuesday its the Pool Party featuring night swimming, music and cocktails whilst on Friday, they are holding a Chateau Dinner. The theme for the 5 course dinner, with matching wines, is honey and there will additionally be music, storytelling and a visit from the Radovljica Beekeeping Association. More information about the hotel and their events can be found here – http://www.hotel-lambergh.com/en/

The ‘Kriva jelka’ Path and sweet treats ahead!

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As regular readers of my blog will know, I love being outdoors; hiking in the mountains, cycling, running etc. Having lived here for over 6 years now, and spent a large part of that time outdoors,  some might say I know a lot of the paths and the terrain around Radovljica and the surrounding areas better than some of the locals. Indeed,  its not been unknown for me to be taking a friend or two along with me to places they have never been before. I’m told I’d make a good guide – tour guide that is, not a Girl Guide!

I was therefore delighted when, for a change, a friend recently told me about a path which I’d never even heard of before – the circular walking path ‘Kriva Jelka‘, which is part of the ‘Udin Boršt’ forest. Of course, I immediately took it to task to check it out. The path is named after the bent over (kriva) fir tree (jelka), planted by the local tourist association, which replaced the original tree around which bandits used to gather.

The path begins in Zgornje Duplje at Camp Trnovc, which is just a fifteen minute drive from Radovljica. Previously I had never been to, or even heard of, this small family run campsite so it was a great find. It is set in a peaceful location, in the middle of a large meadow, with space for up to 50 campers, tents or trailers and is surrounded by woods and a river. Next door, the owners also run the Trnovc Tourist Farm (Turistična kmetija Trnovc) where, upon prior reservation, home-cooked meals can be enjoyed. There is also a small reception area, with a pleasant shady seating area, where drinks and ice-creams can be bought – a welcome reward after the walk, and where you can get further information and a map for the walk. More information about the Camp and Tourist Farm can be found here – http://www.trnovc.com/ and about the walk here (only in Slovene – http://www.grascina-duplje.si/zz%20kriva%20jelka/

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There is an information board at the start showing several options to make a longer or shorter route and path is well marked throughout with a small fir tree on the wooden markings (as seen below). In addition to the Kriva Jelka itself, the path also passes a number of points of interest including the Manor House (graščina) and Vogvar’s House, a heritage protected monument, in Spodnje Duplje and the Kras Cave entrance (kraška jama) in Zadraga.

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This coming week, time permitting, I plan to attend a concert by the Carmen Manet Choir, which will take place on Tuesday 17th September at 7pm in the Radovljica Mansion House. Entrance is free. I previously attended a concert by the same choir back in …….. and thoroughly enjoyed their renditions and mixture of classic and modern songs with a twist. You can also listen to a clip of them on my previous blog from January 2013 entitled ‘Shovels Ahoy!’.

I also intend to visit the 2nd Festival of Honey, taking place on Saturday 21st September, at the Gorenjska Beekeeping Centre( http://www.cricg.com/) in nearby Lesce. The event programme kicks off at 10am and includes lectures, presentations, honey themed cookery workshops and a market – ideal for someone with as sweet a tooth as I have!

Actually, it’s going to be a busy one because next weekend its also the Sweet Festival (Sladka Istra) at the coast in Koper. This is one of the largest events of its kind in Slovenia and is a heavenly mixture of all things sweet. Ok, its a bit of a drive to get there but I usually make a day of it – stop somewhere enroute to walk, probably Nanos, weather permitting, take a stroll along the coast to Izola and enjoy the more temperate coastal climate for a change. To be followed by lots of sweet delights! More information can be found here and of course I will be writing about it next week too  – http://www.sladka-istra.si/sl/

Radovljica and Beekeeping

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Beekeeping in Slovenia is hugely popular. According to statistics, there are around 8,000 beekeepers which, for a population of just 2 million people, equates to around 4 beekeepers per 1,000 inhabitants.

The reason I am writing about this today is that I was once again reminded of the importance of bees when I saw the trailer for a new film, ‘More than Honey’, which has just been released and is now showing in cinemas in the UK. It looks well worth a view. I have sent the link onwards within Slovenia in the hope that maybe someone will consider bringing it to audiences in Slovenia too. In the meantime, you can watch the trailer here – http://www.morethanhoneyfilm.com/

Radovljica, where I live, is home to not only the Apiculture Museum (that’s beekeeping to you and me), housed in the Radovljica Mansion (seen below) but also the Gorenjska Beekeeping Centre where, on Saturday 21st September, the Festival of Honey and Day of Honey Cuisine will take place. The event, which begins at 10am, will include lectures, presentations and honey themed cookery workshops, as well as a market selling honey related products and an accompanying entertainment programme. More information about the Museum of Apiculture in Radovljica can be found here – http://www.muzeji-radovljica.si/4m_cebelarski/4cebelarski_uvod-en.html

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Radovljica is also ideally suited for hikes into the surrounding Julian Alps and the Karavanke range. I spend a lot of my free time hiking, and am particularly fond of the Karavanke, which are literally on my doorstep. At this time of year, I often make a trip to the peak of Dovška Baba (1891m) which stands above the village of Dovje. The views across to the village of Mojstrana, the Vrata valley and its surrounding high mountains, including Triglav, are simply stunning. 

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Its a pretty steep hike up through the forest, but nowhere is it technically demanding. There are no mountain huts enroute although there is a herdsmen’s hut at the Dovška Rožca Highland, which is sometimes open at weekends, but this isn’t to be relied on. After passing the highland, it is about a further 20-30 minutes up to the peak where you are richly rewarded with views on one side of Slovenia and the other side across into Austria. However, on its northern side, Dovška Baba is highly eroded (as seen in the picture below) so one should take great care not to get to close to its edge.

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There are also hundreds of other walks in the Karavanke range which are as, if not even more, rewarding. I also like the fact the Karavanke are lesser known, and therefore less crowded, than the Julian Alps. I have written numerous times about walks there, and will of course continue to do so too.

On Saturday of the coming week, 14th September, the central event of the Langus Days Festival (Langusovi dnevi) will take place at 5pm in the village of Kamna Gorica with a fete and entertainment being provided by a local choir whilst amateur painters, who have spent the previous week at the artists colony, display their works of art.

The Dovžan Gorge

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Despite still being August, there has certainly been a hint of autumn in the air this past week, with rather chilly, fresh mornings and the first mushrooms starting to appear in the forests.

Summer is, and will always be, my favourite season and I am always sad as it begins to draw to a close. However, every season must end, and autumn, if it’s a mild one, can also be fantastic for hiking and savouring the spectacular colours of the deciduous trees and surrounding nature.

I had heard that the Dovžan Gorge (Dovžanova soteska) had recently been somewhat updated with a new walking path and renovated bridges so I decided to go and check it out for myself. The Dovžan Gorge is located a few kilometres north of the town of Tržič, just a 20 minute drive from where I live in Radovljica. The waters of the Trziška Bistrica river have carved out the gorge, which is particularly known for its rich geological conditions and palaeontologic sites.

The tunnel at the entrance to the gorge, pictured below, was built on the order of Baron Born at the end of the 19th century. This effectively opened the gorge to the world as prior to this residents had to risk crossing a precarious suspension bridge, which was at the mercy of the raging waters.

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It is now possible to make a short circular walk in part of the gorge whilst the other parts lead beside the road. The circular walk, though short, is fairly challenging with ladders and steel grips here and there, so sturdy footwear is a must. This however can be avoided by continuing to walk along the road instead of crossing the river. Those wishing to go a longer walk, as I did, can continue on the road to the village of Jelendol, which is home to the Born Mansion (Bornova graščina) and is also a starting point, as seen on the sign below, for numerous walks into the surrounding Karavanke mountain range; the peaks of Veliki vrh and Kladivo, the very popular Kofce highland and the Stegovnik waterfall. There is also an Exhibition and Educational Centre, in the village of Dolina.

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This weekend was Shoemaker’s Sunday (Šuštarska nedelja) in Tržič. I usually attend the event however this year, due to car problems, I wasn’t able to make it. The event,  held annually on the first Sunday in September, is one of the largest of its type in Slovenia and brings the streets of the old centre of Tržič to life, attracting up to 10,000 visitors from all over Slovenia and neighbouring countries. The event was originally intended to showcase shoemaking in the area, with demonstrations and sales of products at bargain prices. These days however, there is a wide range of other products and stalls together with local food and an accompanying programme of entertainment.

A new exhibition, of the work of Andrej Ropret, is opening this week in the Šivec House Gallery (Šivčeva hiša) in the old town centre of Radovljica. Entrance to the exhibition, which begins on Friday 6th September, is free. More information about Šivec House can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/radovljica-sivec-house/

Also on the 6th September, the Lambergh Chateau and Hotel in Dvorska vas, near Begunje, are holding a Castle Dinner with gourmet food and accompanying medieval programme. More information about the event and the hotel can be found here – http://www.hotel-lambergh.com/en/

Galetovec and Slovenian hayracks

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I can’t believe the summer holidays are almost over and schools will be starting again next week. The school summer holidays are really long, far longer in the UK. Though I don’t have children myself, I have significantly more free time during the summer, due to a lack of work so when the school holidays begin I always think it will seem like an eternity. However, the time really flies by – as they say ‘Time flies when you are having fun!’

Once again I have been busy enjoying all the fantastic, natural and free things Slovenia, and in particular the Gorenjska region, has to offer.

A particularly enjoyable trip I made this week was to Galetovec (1265m). Though not high, the panoramic view from this peak, which stands above the village of Bohinjska Bela, is outstanding and well worth the effort. Bohinjska Bela is located just the other side of Bled, approximately 10kms from Radovljica. So, as it wasn’t far, and to avoid the usual summer weekend traffic jams through Bled, I went from home by bike.

Though not the official start of the walk, I began my hike from the Iglica waterfall (Slap Iglica), which in the current dry season could perhaps better be described as the ‘Iglica Trickle’ – don’t expect too much! The area is a popular with local rock-climbers and there are ladders (as seen below) tucked into the crags between the rock faces. Those not keen on narrow confined spaces, would be better to begin the walk from the Mercator supermarket in Bohinjska Bela and followed the signed route. Both routes eventually join at a hayrack and lead onwards and upwards through the forest, quite steeply in places, passing the Slamniki highland, a Partisan memorial and eventually Galetovec itself, where you are more than rewarded with views across the valley, to the Jelovica plateau, the Karavanke Alps and, in the distance, the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

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Hayracks (kozolci), used for drying hay, as seen in the picture below, are a typical feature of the landscape in Slovenia, with each region having its own unique variety. Wherever you are in the country, you will usually come across a hayrack. In fact, the worlds first open-air hayrack museum has also recently opened in the Dolenjska region – http://www.slovenia.si/culture/tradition/the-land-of-hayracks/   Unfortunately, these days all too often you can see advertising hoardings, rather than hay, hung on the hayracks, something I abhor but in these times of financial hardship, I suppose a much needed source of income for struggling farmers and landowners.

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If you are visiting, or thinking of visiting, Radovljica and the surrounding area this coming week, there’s plenty happening. Here are some of the highlights:

  • On Tuesday 27th August at 8pm, there’s a free concert by the Kaboodle Community Choir in Linhart Square, Radovljica .
  • On Saturday 31st August at 4.30pm it’s the annual Večno mladi (Evergreens) street parade through Radovljica. This year its a double celebration as the Radovljica Fire Brigade are celebrating their 130th year of existence.
  • After the parade, at 5.30pm, there will be a concert featuring top Slovene music acts Čuki and Tanja Žagar. The concert will be held on the lawn behind the Spar supermarket and entrance is free.
  • On Sunday 1st September a Flea Market will be held in Linhart Square, Radovljica from 9am onwards.
  • Also on Sunday 1st September, a concert will take place at the church in Kamna Gorica. The concert, by Filip Kopušar, is part of the Langus Days Festival (Langusovi dnevi) which takes place annually on the first weekend of September to celebrate the painter Matejž Langus, and includes creative,  recreational and cultural events for all the family.

Jezersko, the Sava River and more…

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A perfect to visit in the height of summer, when the heat is on, is Jezersko. This tranquil and picturesque part of Slovenia can feel a little cut-off, due to its somewhat remote location at the end of a long winding road which leads to the border with Austria. However, in reality its only just over 40km from where I live in Radovljica and takes under an hour to reach by car.

Jezersko’s 700 residents are scattered across its two parts – Lower (Spodnje) and Upper (Zgornje) Jezersko. It lies at 906m and is surrounded by the high peaks of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. There area is a nature lovers dream with an abundance of outdoor things to do; hiking, cycling and climbing in the summer and skiing, sledging and skating in the winter. Lower Jezersko is predominantly residential whilst its upper part offers accommodation, tourist farms and other (limited) tourist facilities. The lake, Planšarsko jezero, is one of its most popular draws and is a popular place for family outings as well as being the start point for the numerous walks into the surrounding high peaks of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

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Having recently done some work in relation to the new Ravenska Kočna Theme Path (http://ravenska-kocna.si/en/), and always on the look out for new and interesting places to walk, I wanted to go and see and try it for myself. The 8km path, which is fairly level throughout, passes through some stunning scenery and even having been in Slovenia for over 6 years, I was still silenced by its beauty as it traverses meadows and the Jezernica stream, before heading slightly uphill to the viewpoint at ‘Na prodih’. And what a view it is. Here is a photo I took, but it really doesn’t do it justice, so you can also read more about the path and see more photos here – http://ravenska-kocna.si/wp-content/uploads/Tabla1.pdf

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Also, along the path is the new Davo Karničar Mountain Lodge. A true Jezersko local, Davo Karničar is a climber and extreme skiier, as well as being the first man to ski from the summit of Everest in the year 2000, as well as having skiied from the 7 summits, the 7 highest mountains on each of the 7 continents. In short he’s a (Slovene) living legend. Despite all that he has achieved he has remained entirely down-to-earth and will more than happily brew you a tea or cook up some local specialities and can also offer advice on what to see and do in the area that he knows like the back of his hand. Accommodation at the lodge and guided tours can also be arranged.

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At the far end of Jezersko, you reach the Seeberg mountain pass (1218m), and former border, which leads into the town of Bad Eisenkappel (Železna Kapla) in Austria, which is just one of the many ways of reaching Austria from Slovenia.

Every August the Sheep Ball (Ovčji Bal) is held in Jezersko, which is a festival of all things ovine. The celebration of the indigenous Jezersko-Solčava breed of sheep, this year in its 55th year, include demonstrations of sheep shearing and other sheep related traditions, woollen related activities and the opportunity to purchase local handicrafts and dairy products.

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Elsewhere, the Sava River is a popular place to take a dip and cool down at this time of year, though it’s way too cold for me! In total the Sava river extends to 990 kilometres and flows through  Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. In Slovenia it comprises the Sava Dolinka and Sava Bohinjka which merge at the confluence in Radovljica. From Radovljica, there are many options for taking pleasant shady walks alongside the river or, for those brave enough, having a paddle in its shallower parts. A popular walk from Radovljica is to the Fux footbridge over the Sava river. More information can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/lipnica-castle-natural-science-trail/

The hugely popular Avsenik Festival kicks off this week and runs from the 23rd – 25th August. The festival of popular folk music, this year celebrating its 60th year, is held at the Avsenik Restaurant in Begunje na  Gorenjskem and attracts huge audiences – http://www.avsenik.com/festival/en.asp

The Pokljuka Gorge

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Slovenia is almost 60% covered in forest, which comes in pretty handy when its this hot because you are never far away from some cool shade in the forest. So in the past few weeks, most of my trips have been planned around being outdoors and making the most of the fantastic weather, whilst also being in the shade.

The Pokljuka Gorge (Pokljuška soteska) is a hidden and refreshing gem during the summer. A lot of people bypass it on their way to the Pokljuka plateau but it is certainly worth making the short detour. The 2km gorge was formed from the waters of the Pokljuka glacier. At first the terrain is a little difficult through a ravine with fallen trees, branches and stones, but as long as you are wearing good shoes it is fine and only takes around 20 minutes from the parking area to reach the most interesting part of the gorge. The path leads first past the natural bridge, then onto a large cave, the Pokljuka Hole.

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It then continues before reaching the Gallery, a wooden boardwalk, which leads up steps before you emerge from the rock walls into an area covered with ferns and forest flowers.

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This week I also visited the Pokljuka plateau itself, this time by bike. Its quite a long ride from Radovljica (496m), via Bled and Gorje, with an almost 900m altitude gain to reach Rudno Polje  (1347m). The road climbs up gradually, via a series of sweeping bends, but its never overly steep. However, again its ideal in the heat as up there, on the forested plateau, the temperature was just perfect. The Pokljuka plateau is vast. It spans almost 20km in both length and width and part of it lies within Triglav National Park. It is a popular destination for sports lovers; in winter it is home to some of the best country-country skiing trails in the area, and also the location of the annual Biathlon World Cup. There are also 2 small ski slopes, one near Rudno Polje and the other near the Sport Hotel. In summer, and in winter too, its a hikers paradise with a wide range of walks available from shorter strolls to one of its many highlands, to longer, more challenging walks to the surrounding mountains. The highest point, and a very popular spot year-round, is the peak of Debela Peč (2014m). Pokljuka is easiest accessed by car (or by bike!) as there is no public transport to/from the plateau other than in the summer months when buses run daily from Bled.

As, more often than not, I’m walking alone, I don’t have the chance to get many pictures of me and the scenery (maybe that’s a bonus!). So here’s a picture taken by a friend who accompanied me this week for fantastic hike! Here you can see me on the peak of Srednji vrh (1796m), on the left with Vrtača in the background and on the right with Stol behind me – super!

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This weekend it’s the Sheep Ball (Ovčji Bal) in Jezersko, so I hope to be making a visit there and writing more about the Jezersko area next week. The Ball, held annually on the second Sunday in August, celebrates the indigenous Jezersko-Solčava sheep breed and revives former traditions and customs. There is, of course, also an opportunity to buy and try all things ovine; local dairy products, wool products, souvenirs etc.

Meanwhile, the Radovljica Festival is now into its second week, with still plenty  happening –  http://www.radolca.si/en/radovljica-festival/