Kamna Gorica: Langus Days / The Sextons’ Museum House

After a 30km hike on Saturday (more about that soon!) in 30+ degree temperatures, I was pretty out for the count by early Saturday evening, that was until I was suddenly awoken with a start, though it wasn’t until the next morning that I found out why. There was an earthquake, measuring 4.1 on the richter scale, the centre of which was in the Bovec area in the Soča valley, and was felt throughout the west of the country.

In fact, earthquakes are not an entirely uncommon occurrence here, there have been four recorded this year and in April 2014 there was a 4.4 magnitude quake in South-West Slovenia. However, the majority of them are almost undetectable. The biggest earthquake, 6.1 magnitude, struck Ljubljana in 1895 on Easter Sunday. Seventeen years ago one of the strongest quakes of this century, 5.6 magnitude, caused considerable damage in the Soča valley area, but fortunately no lives were lost.

The annual Langusovi dnevi (Langus Days) event begins this week in the village of Kamna Gorica. The event is held on the first weekend of September in memory of the painter Matevž Langus (1792-1855). Various artistic, creative, social and recreational events, for adults and children alike, take place during the course of the celebration.

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For its size the small village of Kamna Gorica, in the Lipnica valley, crams in a number of sights of interest. The Sextons’ Museum House, dating from 1803, stands perched on a small hill above the village, next to St. Trinity’s church, and affords wonderful views across the village and to the mountains of the Karavanke range.

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In 2014 the house, which had previously lain derelict for years, was re-opened after thorough restoration. Visitors can see the original black kitchen and preserved living areas which offer an insight into life in Kamna Gorica in the past. Together with nearby Kropa, Kamna Gorica was formerly one of the main iron working villages in the area of what is the present day Slovenia. It is also known for the many water canals that run through the village which previously served the needs of the forges and led to the village also being known as ‘Little Venice’. Entrance to the museum house is free, though voluntary donations towards its upkeep are appreciated. More information can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/the-sextons-museum-house

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The main events of this year’s Langus Day take place on Saturday 5th September and include:

  • 10am – 2pm – Creative Workshops for All Generations
  • 10am – 5pm – Open Day at the Sexton’s Museum House
  • 2pm – Free Guided Tour of Kamna Gorica
  • 4pm – Children’s 200m, 400m & 1100m Run
  • 5pm – Adult’s 5km Run

More information about these and other Langus Day events can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/langus-days/

Finally, as summer slowly draws to an end (boohoo!) it’s official that this has been the 2nd hottest summer ever since records began in 1900, with 42 days being above 30 degrees C.

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015

Jezersko: A wealth of hidden natural beauty

If you like hiking and magnificent Alpine scenery, then Jezersko should definitely be on your list of places to visit in Slovenia. Personally, I think Jezersko is very underrated as little is written about it in the media and it deserves to be more widely known. So, in an attempt to at least partially rectify that, here’s my contribution.

I usually visit Jezersko at least a couple of times per year and particularly like to go on the occasion of the Sheep Ball (Ovcji bal), which is the oldest ethnological event of its kind in Slovenia and this year was held for the 57th time.

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The Plansar Lake (Plansarsko jezero)

Jezersko can be reached either from Kranj towards Preddvor and along the narrow Kokra valley or via Austria and the Seeberg saddle (Jezerski vrh) pass. It is surrounded by the mountains of the Kamnik Savinja Alps. The Jezersko municipality has only 655 inhabitants (data from 2009) spread across an area of 6,881 hectares. There are many remote farmsteads scattered over its two settlements – Spodnje (Lower) and Zgornje (Upper) Jezersko. Zgornje Jezersko is the bigger of the two and has tourist facilities including a hotel, guest houses and tourist farms.

There are numerous natural wonders to see, the most well-known among them is the Planšar Lake (Plansarsko jezero), which is also the venue of the annual Sheep Ball. The Jezersko-Solčava breed of sheep is indigenous and is celebrated in this annual tradition of all things ‘sheep’ – wool, cheese and other dairy products, sheep shearing demonstrations and more.

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The annual Sheep Ball

Of course I couldn’t go all that way without doing some hiking too so my visit began with a 7am start from Radovljica, arriving in Jezersko by 8am, before setting off to hike to the peak of Goli vrh. The path begins at the Davo Karničar Mountain Lodge, which, at the time of my visit was currently not operating.

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The peak of Goli vrh – well worth the hike!

The path is well marked throughout and rises steeply through the forest, crossing the Jenkova planina highland and continuing up through the forest to reach the peak at  1787m from where there are panoramic views so mesmerising, it’s difficult to know where to look at first!

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One of the many ‘wow’ views. This one looking down over the Plansar Lake

Jezersko’s most known resident is Davo Karničar, a local legend, a climber and extreme skier who has skied from the 7 highest summits on all 7 continents and was the first person to ski from the summit of Everest in the year 2000. In fact the whole Karničar family are an integral part of the valley where they have the family farmstead and help run the Česka koča mountain hut, which is located under Mt. Grintovec and is one of Jezersko’s most popular hiking destinations. The hut has a long and interesting history as it is the only one in Slovenia that was actually built, in 1900, by the Czech Branch of the Slovene Mountaineering Association, hence its name.

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The Ceska koca mountain hut under Mt. Grintovec

For those looking for more of a stroll than a hike I most definitely recommend a walk along the Ravenska Kočna Theme Path. The 8km path traverses meadows beside the Jezernica stream then leads slightly up through the forest to the viewpoint ‘Na prodih’ where the views will richly reward your effort.

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The Ravenska Kocna Theme Path

The Jezerska slatina mineral water spring, located near the Ank farmstead, is said to have the highest magnesium content of all mineral waters in Slovenia.

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The Jezerska slatina mineral spring. Bring your water bottle and fill it!

Useful links:

Jezersko Tourist Information Centre – http://www.jezersko.info/en/

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015

A new old face in town / A facelift for Lake Jasna

There’s a new old face in Radovljica’s old town in the form of a new bronze statue of Dr. Cene Avguštin (1923 – 2010), created by the academic sculptor Tatjana Kostanjevič. The statue stands in the square between St. Peter’s Church and the Radovljica Mansion – home to the Museum of Apiculture, the Municipal Museum, a music school and the venue for numerous concerts, weddings, exhibitions and other events.

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Dr. Cene Avguštin was an art historian and conservator and an honoured citizen of Radovljica who strived to popularise cultural heritage through his work which included museum and gallery activities (director, custodian), architectural and urbanistic development of Gorenjska’s medieval towns and squares, and professional lecturing.

This week I revisited Lake Jasna in Kranjska Gora as I had read about its recent facelift. The small lake has always been a popular spot with its backdrop of the Julian Alps, crystal clear water and en-route to the Vršic pass. However, it had long felt somewhat neglected, so its new appearance, complete with wooden chairs, bridges and a small tower is most definitely a welcome and well-received improvement.

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And finally there’s somewhere to get an ice-cream and a drink and to sit and soak up the scenery.

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Radol’ca introduced the Tourist Hop-on- Hop-off bus two years ago and, as far as I’m aware, was the first town in Slovenia to do so. It has been a definite success and set a shining example. So, this year, for the first time, Kranjska gora has also begun operating a Hop-on Hop-Off tour bus which visits the area’s 10 most attractive sights, including Lake Jasna

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Useful Links:

Radovljica Hop-On Hop-Off Tourist Bus – http://www.radolca.si/en/hop-on-hop-off-radolca/

Radovljica Mansion – http://www.radolca.si/en/art-history-overview/

St. Peter’s Church – http://www.radolca.si/en/radovljica-church/

Kranjska Gora Hop-On Hop-Off Tour Bus – http://www.kranjska-gora.si/en/activities/summer-activities/tour-bus

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015

The Beekeeping Educational and Panoramic Path

On Thursday last week I went to the Beekeeping Education Centre of Gorenjska* (CRICG) in Lesce where an exhibition was opened about the new Beekeeping Educational and Panoramic Path in Gorje. So, of course, I then had to go and check out the path for myself, and panoramic it certainly is. Even if you are not particularly interested in beekeeping, I’d highly recommend the path, the views alone make it worth the effort, and if you are interested in beekeeping too then it’s a win-win all round!

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The circular path begins in the village of Spodnje gorje which is on the road from Bled towards Pokljuka. There is an information board about the path (in Slovene and English) and a little further on also information about the Slovenian Carniolan honey bee.

The path is marked throughout with these yellow bee symbols. Occasionally the signs are a little sparse but, as I discovered, unless there is a sign to the contrary just keep going and sooner or later there will be another sign pointing you in the right direction.

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You can choose to walk either the shorter loop (approx. 2kms) or the entire path (approx. 6kms). The path leads through the villages of Višelnica and Mevkuž, where you can either turn right for the short loop, or continue to Grabče, Krnica and Poljšica, eventually returning to the start of the path in Spodnje gorje.

Along the route you will pass numerous beehives of varying shapes and sizes. They are not always easy to spot as they are often located in private gardens so keep your eyes peeled, however, there are also some that are right beside the path, such as this beauty below.

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And there’s even a wild bee and insect hotel.

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If you get lucky, as I did, you might find a local beekeeper out tending his garden and/or bees, who will be happy to show you or tell you more. I got even more lucky that one lent me an umbrella for the brief downpour that I encountered en-route – thanks!

The village of Grabče is particularly quaint with its wooden bridge, renovated Grajski mlin (Castle Mill), former sawmill and iron-forge, and the tall wooden shrine which stands like a tower on a rock actually in the river.

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I’ve driven past these villages on the way to/from Pokljuka hundreds of times but have never taken the time to stop and walk around. Now I know what beauty lies within, I’m quite sure I won’t be in such a hurry to pass by in the future. Well, with sights like this, how could I resist!

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* The Beekeeping Education Centre in Lesce is a one-stop centre for beekeepers and beekeeping and also offers guided tours of its beehive as well as educational events etc. The centre now has a new website – http://www.cricg.si/ or you can also read more about it here – http://www.radolca.si/en/gorenjska-region-beekeeping-development-and-education-centre/

On a final note in regard to beekeeping in Slovenia, this week it was nice to read some positive news about this year’s honey harvest, as you can see in this article – http://www.sloveniatimes.com/honey-harvest-improves-to-an-average-season-this-year

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015

Solkan – The World’s Largest Stone Arch Bridge – and more!

Solkan, which is just minutes from the city of Nova Gorica, is most known for its 85 metre-long stone railway bridge which claims to have the largest stone arch in the world. It was completed in 1905 but during the Sixth Battle of the Soča Front in 1916, it was blown up by the Austro-Hungary Army so that the Italians couldn’t seize it. Later, after the Treaty of Rapallo, when the territory was occupied by Italians, the stone arch was reconstructed.

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There’s also so much more to see and do in the area, as I found out during my recent 2 day visit. I stayed at Hotel Sabotin, a 3-star hotel which is well located for seeing all the sights of Nova gorica and Solkan, and has air-conditioning and a good restaurant.

Almost adjacent to the railway bridge which runs over the stunning emerald green Soča river, the road bridge is a popular place for kayaking and bungee jumping. In fact, whilst I was there there were some brave/fool hardy/adrenaline junkies (delete as appropriate!) leaping off the bridge into the abyss below. Unfortunately, I wasn’t quick enough with my camera to snap it but, to get the gist, here’s a picture of what lies beneath!

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As ever, I prefer to explore an area by getting up above it to enjoy the best views and nature and Solkan has two great options right on its doorstop.

The first is Sveta gora (Holy Mountain) and the Basilica of the Assumption of Mary which is a popular pilgrimage site and also part of the extended Slovenian Mountain Transversal, however, you can also drive up if you don’t fancy the walk. There are numerous paths, many of which lead through First World War bunkers, so if pitch black tunnels aren’t your thing, then choose your route wisely! I chose a route which included bunkers but, in all honesty, after the first, relatively short one, I chickened out of the second 260m-long one and instead took the path around it. Although the sight is impressive up close, and offers panoramic views, you can’t actually get a feel for its sheer size from up close and, for me, the best view of Sveta gora came from the second hike I did that same day, to Sabotin.

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Looking at Sveta gora from Sabotin

Mount Sabotin is full of interesting sights and sites. It is where the Alps, the Dinaric Karst and the Mediterranean meet. The ruins of the former St. Valentine’s Church and the entire area has been proclaimed a cross-border Park of Peace. I chose the southern route up, which is easier than the northern approach. You can also go further along the ridge and visit the Dom na Sabotin hut (609m) for refreshments, which formerly served as a frontier barrack of the Yugoslav National Army, and where you can also see exhibits from the First and Second World Wars.

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Whilst in the area I also took time to visit the city of Nova Gorica which lies directly on the border with the Italian city of Gorizia (Gorica). The railway line forms the border between the two countries and when you emerge from the railway station you could be forgiven for not knowing which country you are actually in. In fact, the few metres directly in front of the railway station, in Trg Europe (Europe Square) are, these days, jointly shared between the two countries and was named in remembrance of Slovenia’s accession to the EU in May 2004.

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In the past, however, it was all very different. A (very) brief history; From 1500 until the First World War, Gorica belonged to the Hapsburg. During the First World War local people had to flee as refugees due to the conflicts between the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and Italy. On their return there was a new state: Italy. After the Second World War a new state border was created between Italy and Yugoslavia, which led to the growth of new Gorica – Nova Gorica.

These days Nova gorica is probably best known for its many casinos. However, there city also has many sights of interest, too numerous to list here, but below are some of the main ones.

The railway station, which is the oldest public building in the city and began operating in 1906, and also houses the Kolodvor Museum Collection.

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The roof of a tunnel for pedestrians and cyclists is entirely covered in plastic daisies created by Jure Poša. The city has many green areas, squares, and statues. In fact, there is an entire street lined with busts and statues (Erjaceva ulica) – The Alley of Remembrance.

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The Church of the Annunciation of Mary and the adjoining Franciscan Kostanjevica monastery stand on a small hill between Gorica and Nova Gorica on the Slovenian side of the Slovenian-Italian border.

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Here are some useful links for more information about the area and the places mentioned above:-

The Holy Mountain – http://bit.ly/1Nh6gKS

The Solkan Bridge – http://bit.ly/1K9wBY9

Nova Gorica and Solkan Tourist Information – http://www.novagorica-turizem.com/

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015

The Radovljica Festival / Završnica Recreation Park

The Radovljica Early Music Festival began on Saturday 8th August and runs until Sunday 23rd August. There is a rich programme of concerts, workshops and masterclasses which take place in Radovljica Mansion and St. Peter’s Church. More details can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/radovljica-festival/83/260/ and also here – http://www.festival-radovljica.si/en/

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Leila Schayegh

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Phoenix Munich Ensemble

As much as I love hiking and cycling in the hilly and mountainous surroundings of Radovljica, there are the occasional times – such as when I’ve already hiked for 5 hours and am tired but don’t want to be at home when the weather is so beautiful – when a nice leisurely bike ride is called for. Fortunately, we have that here too!

So, on Friday, after the aforementioned 5 hour hike (more about that another time), I cycled to the Završnica Recreation Park in the Završnica Valley which, from home, takes less than 45 minutes, taking the route Radovljica – Lesce – Hraše – Rodine – Zabreznica – Žirovnica – Moste – Završnica, and then to the Zavrh bar which has lately become one of my favourites places to sit and enjoy a drink beside the cool of the Završnica stream.

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Chilling by the stream!

The reservoir is also the start point of the 2km-long Završnica Trim Trail which leads beside the stream to the Zavrh bar and onwards, making it perfect for these sultry hot days when the cool of the forest offers some respite from the heat.

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The Zavrsnica reservoir (and me!)

The Recreation Park also comprises a football field, a natural climbing wall and beach volleyball courts. The Završnica Valley is also an excellent starting point for mountain biking, and for hikes in the Karavanke mountains, such as to Stol, the highest mountain in the Karavanke, or to the ski slopes and the spring of the Završnica stream at Zelenica. Fishing and horse-riding are also popular activities in the valley.

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The new bridge connecting the trim trail

In winter there is a cross-country skiing area and, if the snow conditions are right, the road which leads up to the Valvasor mountain hut is turned into a sledging track. More information about the valley can be found here – http://www.zavrsnica.si/?id=50 (Slovene) or http://en.zirovnica.eu/home/ (English)

But it’s not time to be thinking about winter yet. Still more good weather ahead this week to enjoy….

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015

More Rainy Days Ideas – Radovljica and Studor

Most of July was blissfully hot and dry, and indeed records were being broken left, right and centre, until, that is, last week when a new, less than remarkable, record was set of just 20 minutes sunshine over a 5 day period. Let’s hope that record is consigned to the history books and not repeated any time soon! Fortunately, by Friday the sun had worked its way back and it was immediately hot again. The consequence, however, is that there wasn’t much in the way of hiking and cycling for me for the whole of last week, instead just endless trudges with my umbrella.

Once such ‘trudge’ – though in fairness the remarkable scenery means it can’t be described as a ‘trudge’ – was around the quaint village of Studor. The moody skies and the mountains of the Julian Alps rising up from Bohinj Lake only served to somehow make it even more scenic.

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Though only tiny, Studor it is known for its double height ‘toplar’ hayracks.

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The Mrcina ranch with its Icelandic horses.

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and also the Oplen House Museum (Oplenova hiša) which represents a typical 19th century home where various crafts were carried out and includes a black kitchen – http://www.slovenia.info/en/muzej/Studor-in-Bohinj,-Oplen-House-.htm?muzej=914&lng=2

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Meanwhile, in Radovljica, it is noticeable how rain actually attracts visitors to the area. On rainy summer days, the old town centre is often at its liveliest as people flood here from Bled, and the surrounding areas, seeking things to do on a rainy day. Popular attractions include:

The Museum of Apiculture, housed in the Radovljica Mansion, where you can learn all about the history and importance of beekeeping in Slovenia and see the collection of painted beehive panels, each one tells its own story, including the oldest one in the world.

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The Gingerbread Workshop at Lectar Inn, where you can see gingerbread hearts being made and decorated, pick up some souvenirs and/or enjoy a delicious meal in the restaurant.

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There’s also the Šivec House Gallery, St. Peter’s Church and, a little further afield, the iron-forging village of Kropa, the village of Kamna Gorica with its many bridges and streams, the ruins of Kamen Castle and the home of Avsenik music in Begunje, and the Vila Rustica archeological site and Village Museum in Mošnje.

All of the above mentioned are also accessible on the Hop-On Hop Off Tourist Bus which runs on Tuesdays and Thursdays throughout the summer – http://www.radolca.si/en/hop-on-hop-off-radolca/

Of course, on rainy days food and drink is usually top of most people’s list and Radovljica doesn’t disappoint on this score either with a plethora of cafes, and tasty homemade food at the Taste Radol’ca restaurants including Kunstelj Inn, Lectar Inn, Joštov hram, Vila Podvin. More information can be found here or click on the Taste Radol’ca heading at the top of this page – http://www.radolca.si/en/taste-radolca/

© AdeleinSlovenia 2015