Slovenia Under Water: Heroism, Tragedy and Hope

By now you may have seen, heard or read about the catastrophic flooding that has devastated parts of Slovenia over the past few days. Though the country isn’t immune to flooding, that it has happened in what is supposedly ‘summer’ and has been so widespread throughout the country is unheard of and is now officially the biggest disaster the country has faced since it’s independence.

So, this blog will be a little different to my usual ones, but I wanted to get something published as soon as possible for those of you worried about the situation here, or anyone planning to come but are worried about what is and isn’t accessible/open, etc. At the end of this post, I’ve also included details of how you can help, should you want to. In general, the western part of the country has been less affected, so there’s no need to cancel your holiday plans to this area, but do check if you plan to visit other areas.

I’ve started with some general information, then further down there is information that is more specific to the Radovljica area. For further information contact the Radovljica Tourist Information Office or visit www.radolca.si

First and foremost, please, please heed the warnings and don’t try to access paths and trails in affected areas. All the rescue services are working day and night and the last thing they need is to have to rescue people who have got themselves into trouble by taking risks and being unprepared. There is also a high risk of mudslides due to the saturated soil.

Slovenia’s rescue services – firefighters, mountain rescuers – the majority of whom are voluntary, assisted by the Armed Forces, are doing an absolutely sterling job.

By far the worst affected area is Koroška (Carinthia), where houses have been washed away and it took rescue services two days to gain access to areas completely cut off. At the moment food and water is being helicoptered in and, of course, it will be a very long time until life is back to ‘normal’ in that area. In the photo below you can see a member of the Slovenian Mountain Rescue Team being helicoptered in to rescue the residents of the house in the photo; just a few hours later that same house was entirely washed away by the flood waters.

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The Slovenian Mountain Rescue Team and The Slovenian Armed Forces carrying out a rescue

In addition, flood waters rose by as much as 8 metres in Škofja Loka, demolishing bridges that have stood for hundreds of years in just a matter of seconds. The area near the Devil’s Bridge, where I held my birthday celebration back in May this year, basically no longer exists. So sad.

Poljanska Sora poplavljala v Škofji Loki

Other heavily affected areas include Kamnik, parts of Žalec, Laško, Solčava, Luče, Dravograd, and many more. If you have plans to travel to any of the affected areas, please ensure you check with the local tourist board before setting off.

Now on to the Radovljica area. Fortunately, this area has come off relatively, though not completely, unscathed. The lower part of the Šobec Camp had to be evacuated on Thursday night/Friday morning, as the Sava river had broken its banks, and at the time of writing remains closed. An appeal was quickly launched to find free hotel rooms/apartments, etc. for those affected.

The Draga Valley, as seen below, sustained heavy damage and currently the road through the Draga Valley is closed as is Gostišče Draga.

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In Begunje na Gorenjskem the area of Katzenstein Manor, including the Museum of Hostages, is closed.

In terms of hiking trails, the following paths are in areas where trees have been uprooted and water has caused extensive damage, so are currently inaccessible:

  • Lamberg Trail from Krpin to Kamen Castle
  • Shepherds’ Trail through Luknja to the Preval mountain pasture
  • Brezje Path of Peace
  • Hiking Trail to Dobrča
  • Sava River Trail

The following trails, however, are accessible: St. Peter’s Church above Begunje na Gorenjskem, Lipnica Castle Trail, trail to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture from the Slovenska peč smelting furnace and trails in the vicinity of Kamna Gorica.

Cycle routes that run on local roads are accessible by bike, but all the routes that make up the entire network of mountain bike trails are inaccessible.

The nearby Završnica valley also sustained very heavy damage and is currently inaccessible.

All river-based activities in the Radovljica area are due to resume as of today.

Vintgar Gorge is closed until at least 15th August.

Of course, as is usually the case with every disaster of this nature, in addition to tragic tales, there are also heart-warming tales of heroism and hope.

For example, the firemen who left his own home to the ravages of the flood waters to help rescue children from a nursery school, only to return home to find the contents of his house under water.

The family who put out an urgent appeal for a helicopter to rescue their dog, Bolt, who they had had to leave behind, with no food or water. A dog handler from the mountain rescue team organised and successfully carried out the rescue.

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Photo: The Slovenian Mountain Rescue Association

And, on a more personal note, first thing on Saturday morning, in the Facebook group I run here for coeliacs, I wrote that if any coeliacs needed help with access to gluten-free food to get in touch. I was immediately contacted by one family with two young children who had lost their entire home. Though I couldn’t help in person, as it isn’t in this area, within just a few hours I managed to coordinate efforts to collect and deliver them food, which we managed to do the same day.

And since then I have been in regular contact with the president of the Koroška branch of the Slovenian Coeliac Association, who is helping to arrange deliveries of gluten-free food to those cut-off in that area and encouraging members to transfer money to the branch’s account, so they can continue to help those affected over the coming days and weeks.

The president of the EU, Ursula von der Leyen is due to visit in the next couple of days and has pledged to help, and, of course, Slovenia will recover, eventually. However, it’s still important to support those in need and you can also do your bit by supporting the economy through your visit as a tourist and/or contributing to the appeal fund, details below.

Until next time, when I hope to be the bearer of much happier and more positive news.

Bank transfers should be made to the following account:
IBAN: SI56 0284 3026 3945 425
BIC: LJBASI2X
Reference: SI00 2023
Name of recipient: HD ADRA Slovenija, Njegoševa 15 1000 Ljubljana
Purpose: NEURJE 2023
Code: CHAR

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

The Festive Season is Here in Radovljica!

It’s hard to believe it’s December already. Is anyone else wondering where 2022 has gone? It seems to have whizzed by and the festive season is now upon us. At least this year, unlike the past two – for obvious reasons – we can enjoy Christmas with our families and loved ones, and join in group events and celebrations, so all the more reason to get in the festive spirit and start planning what to do, where to go and, of course, what to eat and drink!

The festive season here in Radovljica kicks off tomorrow, Friday 2nd December, with the switching on of the Christmas lights in Linhart Square, the heart of the old town centre. It also marks the end of this year’s Taste Radol’ca Month of Local Menus, and as such the closing event will feature all of the participating Taste Radol’ca restaurants, whose chefs will be cooking up some delicious street food to keep visitors warm and well fed while listening to live music and enjoying the festive atmosphere.

Morda je slika naslednjega: 6 oseb in na prostem

Morda je slika naslednjega: 1 oseba, stati, hrana in znotraj

Thereafter, throughout the month of December there are a whole host of events taking place in Radovljica and the surrounding villages, too many to list here, so I have picked out a few highlights to whet your appetite and you can find the full programme here.

The very next day, Saturday 3rd December, the ever-popular monthly Radol’ca Market takes place from 10am to 1pm, this time with added entertainment for children with horses from the Sitar Ranch.

Morda je slika naslednjega: 3 osebe, ljudje stojijo, Konj in na prostem

I’m particularly looking forward to this month’s market as for the first time ever there will be a stall of gluten-free goodies, made by an acquaintance of mine who has her own gluten-free workshop, Šcepec Vanje (A Pinch of Vanja) and who I know through the Facebook group I set up and run for coeliacs. Cake pops, biscuits, honeybreads and more await!

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Even if you are lucky enough not to have to avoid gluten, it’s well worth trying Vanja’s divine profiteroles!

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On Sunday 4th December from 10am to 7pm there is a St. Nicholas market, creative workshop for children, theatre performance and a visit by St. Nicholas himself!

Miklavžev vikend v Radovljici

The annual Advent Market begins on Friday 9th December from 3pm to 7pm.

There will also be numerous street shows by Ana Snežna, as well as Čupakabra.

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So, as you can see, there’s plenty to see and do here in Radovljica throughout the month of December and, of course, since the town is close to the motorway and well connected by public transport, you can easily visit Ljubljana to see the Christmas lights and visit the Christmas market, as well as other towns and cities throughout Slovenia.

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So, this December, cherish time with your loved ones, spare a thought for those that aren’t in such a fortunate position and, above all, have a happy and healthy festive season!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Summer on Zelenica and Tržič’s Triangle!

The Ljubelj pass is the oldest road pass in Europe. Prior to the building of the Ljubelj tunnel, the steep pass, which reaches 1,369 metres above sea-level, was the main transport route from Slovenia to Klagenfurt in Austria. Since the building of the Karavanke tunnel in 1991, however, the Ljubelj tunnel is far less frequented, while today Ljubelj and Zelenica are favourite year-round destinations for hikers, skiers and the odd hardcore cyclist here and there!

I’ve already written about winter sports on the Ljubelj Pass and Zelenica, so this time you can read and see the ‘green’ version which, depending on whether or not you are a lover of the ‘white stuff’, is equally if not more beautiful!

After several failed attempts to get together for one reason or another, my friend Sabina and I met in Tržič (I, by bike, her by car) then drove to the parking area in front of the Ljubelj tunnel. Note: parking is now payable, we didn’t realise and nearly missed the sign, fortunately, just before you set off, there is a reminder saying Placaj parkirnino in privarčuj (Pay the parking fee and save yourself a fine) for those like us!

Having paid, we set off…

…up the ski piste.

As is to be expected of a ski piste, it’s a fairly steep incline, but the magnificent surroundings means its easy (or easier!) to forget about the effort.

You soon spot the (now defunct) Vrtaška koča mountain hut, which you pass, as well as some friendly four-legged friends!

You can’t possibly get lost and eventually find yourself at the top of the ski piste and at the Planinski dom na Zelenici mountain hut.

From the hut we could already see our first target for the day, a small peak known locally, for obvious reasons, as Triangel, otherwise called Vrh Ljubeljščiče, at an altitude of 1,704m.

Unlike the other paths on Zelenica, the one up to Triangel isn’t marked, but its easy to follow and you can be standing atop the peak in around 15-20 minutes.

If you want a short hike, you can call it a day and from the peak make your way back to the hut and return the same way or, like us, choose to continue your hike to one of the other surrounding peaks, such as Vrtača, Begunščica or, in our case, Srednji vrh.

The path is well marked with the usual red and white trail markers. It initially leads along a magnificent scenic trail with wild flowers and butterflies galore, then across scree towards Vrtača, where it splits; the upper trail leads towards the peak of Vrtača, while the lower ones is marked towards Stol, which we took.

After a while you come to an intersection of trails, where again you can choose your onward direction.

We turned left at the above sign and went downhill for a few minutes to reach the Šija saddle, where you are again greeted with an array of signs.

From the saddle it’s just a short 20 minute climb up to the top of Srednji vrh. From the top, on a clear day, you can see Lake Bled and across the Radovljica Plains towards the Julian Alps. We, however, didn’t have such luck; when we started out it was a perfect cloudless day but it soon clouded over and the wind got up, hence the views are just ‘great’ instead of ‘stunning’!

After returning to the saddle, we made the short walk down to the Koča pri Izviru Završnice mountain hut, where, again, there you are confronted with numerous choices.

To return to Zelenica, first follow the sign (below) to the Planinski dom na Zelenici mountain hut and ‘Izvir’ (Source of the Završnica stream).

From there its just a short cca. 15 minute walk back to the mountain hut, where you can enjoy some well-earned sustenance (yes, I ‘borrowed’ Sabina’s food for the photo, us coeliacs are used to having our own Scooby snacks with us, just in case!) before heading back down the ski slope and completing a wonderful, almost circular, and highly recommended (by me!) hike.

While in the area you can also visit the Mauthausen concentration camp for some quiet contemplation. You can read more in a previous blog here.

So, that rounds up another lovely day spent in the Tržič area, which should most certainly be on your list of places to visit whilst in Slovenia.

© Adele in Slovenia

Kamnek – A Top Tržič Trail!

If you are looking for a short, yet incredibly scenic, hike in the Tržič area, then Kamnek is the choice for you!

The trail starts right in the old town centre, near St. Andrew’s church and the pizzeria, from where you already get your first glimpse down over the town and its red roofs towards the lush mountains that form its backdrop.

There are numerous trails that lead up to Kamnek, some of which are marked with the usual red and white circle, while others aren’t. So, in true ‘All roads lead to Rome’ fashion, just pick one and start hiking and you’ll reach the top, even though, like us, it might take slightly longer than the advertised 45 minutes.

Let’s just say we took the ‘scenic route’, in the most literal sense of the word, but, in fact, for me it was the better choice, since my ongoing vestibular problem means that steep paths with cables and drops either side are not an option for me right now. For those of you who enjoy such challenges, Kamnek caters for you too, so just take the path directly upwards, steeply and slightly to the right, rather than taking any of the paths off to the side.

You gain height quickly, and the views begin even before reaching the top.

Though a modest 873 metres in height, one feels much higher when you emerge out of the forest at the top of Kamnek, and the views are certainly worthy of much higher summits, which makes it all the more rewarding.

There is a bench where you can sit and soak up the views of the old town to one side, and mighty Mt. Storžič to the other.

If you want to extend your hike a little further, you could continue to the top of Pirman, though, to be honest, the views from Kamnek are so great, you’re probably better off lingering there, as Pirman is rather overgrown.

As previously mentioned, there are numerous trails so you can take a different one down and make a circular route, or just return the same way.

So, if you love hiking and fab scenery, be sure to add Kamnek to your list of places to visit in the Tržič area – you won’t regret it!

Click here for more information about this and other hiking trails in the Tržič area.

© Adele in Slovenia

Theme Trails in Radol’ca – Take Your Pick!

Following a themed hiking trail is a great way to discover more of a place, whether its history, culture, and/or natural features.  In the Radol’ca area you are spoilt for choice with a total of 11 such trails. Some are relatively flat, short trails, while others involve a bit more effort; all of them, however, are unique in their own way.

The Begunje Shepherds’ Trail is a 10km circular trail and is by far my favourite of the bunch! It leads from the Draga valley up to the Preval mountain pasture, then along the ‘ćez Roza‘ path to reach the Roblekov dom mountain hut. The start of the trail involves a short section of climbing, followed by a steep section through the forest.

On emerging from the forest the path levels out somewhat, and you can start enjoying the views. You can read more in a previous blog post here.

The Brezje Path of Peace starts close to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, Slovenia’s main pilgrimage site, in Brezje. It leads via forest paths and country roads to the Peračica waterfalls.

The Sava River Trail, as the name suggests, runs along the banks of the Sava river from the Fux footbridge to the Šobec camp. It is a linear walk that can be walked in either direction.

St. Peter’s Trail is a short trail that leads up to St. Peter’s church above Begunje na Gorenjskem. From the church there are fantastic views of the Radovljica plains, the Jelovica plateau and, on a clear day, all the way to Triglav, Slovenia’s highest mountain.

The Lipnica Castle Trail leads across the Fux footbridge over the Sava river to the ruins of Lipnica Castle above the Lipnica valley.

The Lamberg Trail leads to the ruins of Kamen Castle in the Draga valley. It begins at the Krpin recreation area in Begunje na Gorenjskem and leads through the forest past the ruins of Kamen Castle, passing two small archeological sites, ending in the  Draga valley at the Gostišče Draga restaurant, where you can enjoy a drink, snack or slap-up meal to gather your strength for the return journey, or you could even continue further on one of the trails that lead into the Karavanke mountains.

The Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail is pleasant, shady trail over wooden footbridges. It begins at the source of the Lipnica stream, crosses the Grabnarca stream and ends at a small lake. The walk can easily be extended further by walking on country roads to return to the start.

The Otoče-Brezje Pilgrimage Trail begins at the railway station in Otoče, runs through the village of Ljubno, known for its numerous frescoes, and on to Brezje, home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians.

The Mošnje Archeological Trail explores the village of Mošnje, home to the Villa Rustica archaeological site and the Mošnje Ethnological Museum. 

The Rosary Bead Trail is a circular trail that leads along ancient pilgrimage routes. It gets its name due to the rosary bead-like shape of the trail. The trail is rated as easy, though it covers a total of 12.2km, across fields and meadows, through forests and along country lanes, with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside.

The Begunje Village Trail takes you on a tour of the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem, the birthplace of Slavko Avsenik, the founder of Slovenian folk music. You can also visit Katzenstein Mansion, which today houses a psychiatric hospital and, at the rear, the Museum of Hostages.

Now all you have to do is choose which one, or ones, to walk – a tough choice indeed!

© Adele in Slovenia

Hurry on Down to Chocolate Heaven at the 8th Radovljica Chocolate Festival!

The 8th Radovljica Chocolate Festival is GO and even the current rather gloomy skies and chilly temperatures won’t stop the chocolate fun!

The festival, which is Slovenia’s biggest and best chocolate-related event, features a packed entertainment programme and, of course, chocolate of every size, shape and flavour imaginable. It all takes places in the beautiful setting of Radovljica’s historic old town centre, as well as in the town park and other locations – all of which are within easy walking distance.

The festival kicked off today at 1pm and will continue until 8pm, and thereafter continues for the whole weekend (Saturday 9am-8pm, Sunday 9am-7pm), so there’s plenty of time to get your fill of chocolate! Take a look at the festival video, featuring some of the highlights of last year’s festival, which is bound to get your mouth watering!

Below are just some of the highlights of the choc-packed programme, with something for all the family – even for those who possibly don’t like chocolate – including big name concerts, workshops, cookery shows, cookery workshops, and more!

Click here for the full 3-day festival programme.

Saturday’s highlights include:

10am–6pm: House of Experiments: Make your own bar of chocolate – from bean to bar

10am: Three Chefs’ Cookery Show: Uroš Štefelin, Igor Jagodic, Jorg Zupan

10am, 12noon, 4pm, 6pm: Rainbow cake pops, cookery workshop for children

11am–5pm: Villach Oldtimer Club, exhibition of classic cars

1pm–4pm: Sašo Avsenik Ensemble

4pm: Fashion Show

5pm: Suhu cvetje – concert

6pm: 101- ka Band – concert

Also don’t miss a chance to see the vintage steam train arrive in Radovljica on Saturday bringing passengers to the festival. It’s a sight and sound to be seen and heard!

While on Sunday some of the treats awaiting you include:

10am–5pm: House of Experiments: Make your own bar of chocolate – from bean to bar

10am, 12noon, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm: Smiley Biscuits, cookery workshop for children

12noon: Pohorje Express – concert

2pm: Nipke – concert

3pm: Help! Beatles Tribute Band – concert

4pm–6pm: Circus workshops with Čupakabra

5pm / Joške vn – concert

In addition, throughout the festival you can try your hand at chocolate bingo, have a go on the pumptrack course for bikes and scooters, shoot some arrows at the archery corner, zip across a zip wire, and find out about the new Radovljica Beekeeping Adventure (more about that to come soon!).

Though the weather isn’t as glorious as could be hoped, the majority of the festival locations and events are in marquees so the show goes on – come rain or shine! So, come on down and join in the chocolate fun. There’s still time, I haven’t eaten all the chocolate – yet!

© Adele in Slovenia

A World of Winter Sports in Tržič: Ljubelj and Zelenica

The for many (not me, I hasten to add!) long-awaited first significant snow of the year arrived last Friday and, following a cloudy day on Saturday, Sunday’s sunshine and gorgeous blue skies saw almost half, if not more, of Slovenia heading out to pursue their beloved winter sports!

Among the most popular destinations in the Gorenjska region for sledging and other winter sports is Ljubelj, from where you there is a choice of going to either Zelenica or the old Ljubelj pass, or, like me, why not visit both in one day!

The Ljubelj pass is the oldest road pass in Europe. Prior to the building of the Ljubelj tunnel, the steep pass, which reaches 1,369 metres above sea-level, was the main transport route from Slovenia to Klagenfurt in Austria. Since the building of the Karavanke tunnel in 1991, however, the Ljubelj tunnel is far less frequented, while the Ljubelj pass today is a favourite year-round destination for hikers and in winter it turns into a sledger’s paradise!

It takes about 45 minutes to walk up to the top where the border is marked by two stone obelisks.

Having walked up in beautiful blue skies, a wave of fog suddenly swept in when I reached the top. Luckily, its pretty quick to get back down by sledge!

The Koča na Ljubelju mountain hut is located just metres from the border.

Photo: Visit Tržič

The Ljubelj pass road has long-since been closed to traffic other than for one day every year in September when the Hrast Memorial takes place. The event sees hundreds of motorbikes, motorbikes with sidecars, and old-timer cars competing up the 33% gradient.

Photo: Visit Tržič

But Ljubelj isn’t just a winter destination, there are plenty of hiking trails to explore during summer too, on both the Slovenian and Austrian side. However, many of these routes are not suitable for hiking during winter, so be sure to check the conditions, plan carefully and have the correct equipment – which, it goes without saying, applies to all such winter sports.

The Slovenian hiking routes are marked by red signs and the trails marked by red circles with a white inner, whereas the Austrian routes are marked by yellow signs and the trails along the border by green circles with a white inner.

From the large car park just in front of the Ljubelj tunnel the trail to the Ljubelj pass goes to the right, whilst to the left is Zelenica.

Despite no longer being an ‘active’ ski piste, Zelenica was very much ‘alive’ on Sunday with hikers, ski tourers, snowboarders, a mountain rescue team practicing winter mountaineering skills, sledgers, and I even saw one guy carrying a bike on his shoulder up the snow-covered ski piste!

For many the target destination, year-round, is the Dom na Zelenici mountain hut (1,536m) whilst others continue onward to the surrounding peaks such as Triangel (1,704m), Begunščica (2,060m), Vrtača (2,181m) and Na Možeh (1,784m). The hut is open daily in the summer (1.6 – 30.9) and during the rest of the year at weekends and public holidays (1.10-31.5).

In addition to being a ‘regular’ mountain hut offering warm food and drinks for visitors, the hut is also a Mountaineering Education Centre and hosts numerous events, courses, lectures etc. It has 50 beds and can be hired for group events, training sessions etc.

I will be writing plenty more about hiking in Tržič over the course of the year, and Ljubelj, when it isn’t snow-covered, is among the destinations I plan to visit as part of some longer tours to the surrounding mountains. So, keep reading and, in the meantime, you can find more ideas and inspiration on the Visit Trzic website. Happy sledging (or skiing, hiking…)!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Highlights of Radovljica 2017

So here we are at the start of another exciting year in the Radovljica area, with plenty of events to look forward to.

In this blog I’ve provided a month-by-month guide to some of the highlights, dates to note in your diary, and things to look forward to in this calendar year.

JANUARY

Why not go skiing at the small Kamna Gorica ski area in the Lipnica Valley, at the foot of the Jelovica plateau. The area has a drag lift, 400 metres of easy and 500 metres of slightly more challenging skiing terrain, and is particularly suitable for families. It’s also a bargain at just €6 per half day for children and €8 for adults. Find more information here (in Slovene only) – http://kamnagorica.si/smucisce/

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FEBRUARY

It’s carnival time! Known as ‘Pust‘, the main day is pustni torek (Shrove Tuesday) when, wherever you are in Slovenia, you could be forgiven for thinking it is Halloween as children go to school dressed up as all kinds of ghosts and gouls, and some can be seen going from door-to-door trick-or-treating. However, there is actually a point to pust; the idea being to help drive winter away by scaring it with various costumes and masks – something I whole-heartedly support – roll on spring! The traditional annual carnival procession will take place in Radovljica this year on Saturday 25th February.

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MARCH

Head to Kamna Gorica and/or Kropa on 11th March to watch the celebrations on the eve of St. Gregory’s Day, when local children make and float model vessels in the village streams. This age-old iron-forging custom takes place annually. The models, which are a mixture of unique art creations made from paper, cardboard and wood with candles affixed either on the exterior or interior, create a colourful effect against the dusk setting. This custom dates back to the era of manual iron-forging, before the introduction of the Gregorian calendar in 1582, when the name day of St. Gregory was considered the first day of spring.

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APRIL

The Radovljica Chocolate Festival is by far the biggest event of Radovljica’s calendar year, and one of the biggest events of its kind in the country. This year the festival will take place over three days from Friday 21st to Sunday 23rd April. You can be sure I’ll be writing plenty more about it nearer the time!

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MAY

Various workshops take place during the course of the week-long International Ceramics Festival, with the main day – Market Day – taking place this year on Saturday 27th May.

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JUNE

It’s time to get outdoors and enjoy the best that the Radovljica area has to offer – hiking in the Karavanke Alps, road cycling or off-road mountain biking, rafting and kayaking on the Sava river, caving, fishing, take a panoramic flight on go skydiving at Lesce Sports Airfield, go horseriding, or just lie back beside the river or on a terrace somewhere and enjoy the views. There’s so much choice!

Radovljica SLO 2011

JULY

It’s summer and that means Fresh Thursdays in the Square! Every Thursday during July there are live concerts in Linhart Square, the heart of Radovlijca’s medieval old town.

Radovljica SLO 2011

Radovljica SLO 2011

The Hop-On Hop-Off Tourist Bus runs during July and August. At the time of writing, there is no official information about this year’s schedule, but I’ll be sure to let you know more about that too!

AUGUST

The opening ceremony of the 35th Radovljica Festival of Early Music will take place on Saturday 5th August, with concerts taking place throughout the month ending on 23rd August. The majority of concerts take place in the magnificent setting of Radovljica Manor.

Photo: Jana Jocif

Photo: Jana Jocif

SEPTEMBER

It’s all things sweet on Saturday 23rd September, when the annual Festival of Honey and Honey Dishes takes place in Lesce at the Gorenjska Beekeeping Education Centre. Expect cookery demonstrations, workshop, honey and honey products to try and buy, and something for all the family.

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OCTOBER

Even if there are no major events, there’s no shortage of things to see and do. For example, every first Saturday in the month visit the Farmer’s Market at Vila Podvin, where you can meet local suppliers and buy and taste their produce and products. Following the market, why not stay on for lunch prepared using ingredients sold at the market, and cooked by one of Slovenia’s top chefs, Uroš Štefelin.

Every first Sunday in the month a flea market takes place in Linhart Square, Radovljica (or in the Radovljica Mansion in the event of rain).

Or how about attending one of the regular evenings with the Avsenik House Ensemble in Begunje na Gorenjskem, the home of Slovenian folk music.

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NOVEMBER

It’s time to TASTE RADOL’CA – yippee! For the whole month of November the talented chefs at all the participating  Taste Radol’ca restaurants – of which last year there were 13 – rustle up amazing 3- or 4-course menus available a set price (last year €16). The opening and closing events are always a sell-out too. Taste Radol’ca goes from strength-to-strength each year, so I’m confident that 2017 will definitely be something not to miss!

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DECEMBER

The festive season has come round again, which means its time for the Advent Market, Christmas concerts, street entertainment and plenty more festive fun! The old town centre always looks particularly magical at this time of year.

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Of course, this is just a selection of the events taking place in the Radovljica area, but I hope it has at least whetted your appetite to include Radovljica on your list of places to visit this year!

© Adele in Slovenia

Valvasorjev dom – The Best Mountain Hut in Slovenia 2016

The Radovljica Mountain Association was founded in 1895 and is one of the oldest and most active mountain associations in Slovenia. As with the many other mountain associations throughout Slovenia, it carries out numerous activities, including training for mountain guidesguided hikesmanaging and maintaining mountain huts, and maintenance and marking of mountain trails.

Each association manages a number of mountain huts/shelters/lodges, the majority being in the immediate surroundings, whilst others can be in an entirely different part of the country. For example, the Radovljica Mountain Association manages three huts; Roblekov dom, Pogačnikov Dom na Kriški podih and Valvarsorjev dom. Just last week the latter was awarded, for the 2nd time in 3 years, the title of ‘Best Mountain Hut’.

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Valvarsorjev dom – Photo: PD Radovljica

Valvasorjev dom stands beneath Stol, the highest mountain in the Karavanke range, and on the terrace of the south slopes of Belščica. It is a favourite destination for locals and is also an excellent venue for organised meetings, courses, camps, or school nature trips. The hut has been entirely renovated and has well-equipped sleeping, sanitary and washing areas as well as central heating, running water, showers, radio and mobile connection.

For some, Valvarsorjev dom is a destination in itself. It can be reached from the Završnica valley in less than a hour on the marked trail, whilst for others it is a start point for hiking to Stol. You can also visit the Ajdna archeological site (read more here https://adeleinslovenia.com/2016/06/20/a-sunny-saturday-on-ajdna/).

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Or continue to one of the many highlands beneath Stol. As you can see below, there are plenty of options!

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One of the reasons that Valvasorjev dom is so popular, is that it is one of just a few mountain huts that is open year-round. It is also equally popular during winter with hikers, sledgers (conditions permitting) and off-piste skiers.

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However, that alone is certainly not enough to win the title, it is the friendliness of the team that run it, headed up by Aleš Štefe, as well as the excellent home-cooked food. Everything is made onsite, and one thing I find particularly impressive, is that since Aleš took over running the hut, they have not bought even one single loaf of bread, preferring instead of make their own. There are always a wide range of sweet and savoury dishes on offer such as soups, stews, štruklji, and award-winning strudel.

 Below you can find more information from the Radovljica Mountain Association about access and onward tours from Valvarsorjev dom.

Starting Point and Access:

Moste pri Žirovnici – Završnica – Valvasorjev dom (8km)

Završnica – Valvasorjev dom (1.15h)

Tours from Valvasorjev dom:

Žirovniška planina highland – Stol (2.30h)

Žirovniška planina highland – Zabreška planina highland – Stol (2.45h)

Potoški stol (via Potoška planina – 2h)

Vajnež – via Potoška planina (2.30h)

Ajdna Archeological Site (30min)

Onward routes to other huts:

Prešeren Hut (Prešernova koča) on Stol (3h or 3.30h)

Roblekov dom on Begunjščica (2.30h)

Planinski dom on Zelenici via the Lower Route (3.30h)

Dom Pristava on Javorniški Rovt (2.30h)

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Laško: A Festival of Beer, Blooms and More!

Laško is synonymous with beer, and, with it, the annual Beer and Blooms Festival (Pivo in Cvetje).

Though Laško beer is widely known, some perhaps might not even realise that Laško isn’t merely the name of a beer, it’s also a thriving, compact town – and a lovely one it is too! Laško is located just a 10 minute drive from Slovenia’s 3rd city, Celje, and is easily reached by taking the Celje exit of the Ljubljana-Maribor motorway. The town is also well connected by public transport, with fairly frequent trains from Ljubljana taking under 1.5 hours.

The best place to start a visit to Laško is at the tourist information centre, which occupies a prime position at the entrance to the town in ‘Trg Svobode’. The centre stocks a very comprehensive selection of souvenirs, beer-related or otherwise (I bought chocolate made with beer!), organises brewery tours (only offered for groups but even if you are alone, as I was, the centre will try to arrange for you to join another group), and offers bike rental, as well as an extensive range of information on what to see and do in the town and its surroundings. More information here – http://www.stik-lasko.si/en/

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The Black Bridge, situated at the outflow of the Žikovca stream

Now, back to the beer! Beer drinkers in Slovenia usually belong to one of two groups, the ‘reds’ or the ‘greens’! The ‘red’ refers to Union beer – the brewery is based in Ljubljana, whilst the ‘green’ refers to Laško.

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Laško beer dates back to 1825 when, Franz Geyer, a local producer of mead and gingerbread, founded the brewery, originally located in the Valvasorjev Spital building in the town centre, which is now a hotel. Geyer was later joined by the entrepreneur and developer Simon Kukec. Through the years the brewery has endured wars and economic crises, but has always managed to survive and even thrive. In 1944, when the factory was bombed, it was soon returned to its former glory and production restarted the following year.

Laško was the number one beer in the former Yugoslavia, which had a population of 22 million, and at the height of its popularity in the 1990s it was annually producing over a million hectolitres, with its beer being exported as far as India. Since Slovenia’s independence in 1991, and later the financial crisis, times have been tough for many of Slovenia’s companies, with many falling by the wayside, however, not withstanding a change of ownership, the Laško brewery has continued unhindered.

For many, a tour of the Laško brewery is high on the list of things to see and do, especially since, at the end of the tour, a tasting session is included! I can’t pretend to be a beer drinker, but that didn’t stop me going on a factory tour anyway! Brewery tours last around 2.5 hours, cost 8 euros, and include a visit to the Laško Museum, a guided tour of the brewery and a beer tasting session with savoury snacks.

You can get up close and personal with the ‘King of Beer’.

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Technology in the factory means that the production process is far-removed from days gone-by. During my tour I could count on one hand the number of employees I saw as everything is automated. The actual recipe and ingredients, however, have remained largely unchanged. A case of ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t try to fix it!’

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For a special treat visit the restaurant in Tabor Castle. The castle sits atop a small hill just immediately above the town centre. The castle is thought to date back to the 12th century, was razed to the ground by the Turks in 1487, and for the ensuing two centuries it remained in ruins. It was finally bought and restored by the Laško brewery in the mid-1980s. Today is houses an incredibly cute, teeny, not to mention popular, wedding hall (with the emphasis being on ‘teeny’ rather than ‘hall’!), and a fine-dining restaurant.

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For a special treat visit the Pavus restaurant, within the castle, which is ranked as one of the top 15 restaurants in Slovenia and one of the Jeunes Restaurateurs of Europe.

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There are plenty of walking and hiking paths in the immediate vicinity. A good way to get your bearings is to take a gentle stroll alongside the Savinja river. The small, well-kept city park, with a play area for children and abstract sculptures, is a nice place to linger in fine weather.

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Just a couple of kilometres from Laško in the hamlet of Strmca I visited the Šolar beekeepers, where for over 30 years the owners have been keeping bees and producing ‘Lectar‘ – otherwise known as decorated gingerbread, most often in the shape of a heart. Visitors can also experience the benefits of apitherapy. Their honey biscuits (medenjaki) are award-winning and I was treated to a sample together with some delicious honey liqueur.

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Now, getting back to the Beer and Blooms Festival. This year’s event will take place on 14th – 17th July.

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It actually started out as just a local flower festival, but was later, from 1965 onwards, expanded to include live music, fireworks, parades, exhibitions, and, of course, beer!

Over 135,000 people visited the 2015 festival and 250,000 jugs of beer were consumed. Not quite on a par with the Oktoberfest, but in Slovenian terms this is a pretty major ‘Don’t Miss’ event, and the bonus is that the beer is a fraction of the cost of that in Munich!

The highlight of the event, and that which draws the largest crowds, is the spectacular firework display on Saturday evening, which can last up to half-an-hour.

As with all good festivals, camping is embraced and a special area is set up for tents. Those looking for more comfortable accommodation can stay at the one of the Thermana Laško hotels. The Wellness Park hotel has a thermal centre with indoor and outdoor pools and retractable glass dome, a modern sauna and wellness centre and several restaurants and cafes. More here – http://bit.ly/1qdgmX1

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© Adele in Slovenia