Taste Radol’ca – Joštov Hram, Podnart

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

It has long been a matter of debate as to whether or not Slovenia is a member of the Balkans or not. According to many official sources, the Balkan region takes its name from the Balkan mountains, which run from the east of Bulgaria to the east of Serbia, and Slovenia is listed among the countries which lie within its boundries. However, opinions still remain firmly divided about this; some saying that the borders are hard to define and it may be that only parts of Slovenia lie within the Balkans; others state that despite Slovenia being part of the former Yugoslavia, Slovenia’s economy, architecture, heritage, culture and numerous other factors, set it miles apart from other Balkans states. No doubt we could all put in our two-pennies worth about this, but I won’t be entering into the debate other than to say that Balkans or not, Slovenia can surely only be richer for its ties, geographically or otherwise, with its neighbouring countries.

It’s also these ties that leads Slovene cuisine to being so diverse. Over the years its own national cuisine has been influenced by both its neighbouring Balkan countries, and the other countries it borders; Italy, Austria and Hungary, with each region of the country also having its own specialities.

The restaurant Joštov Hram in Podnart is a shining example of this diversity. It could be described as offering ‘Balkan cuisine’, but its also so much more than that. I’d perhaps label it ‘Balkan cuisine with Slovene finesse’ – hmm, that could be a catchy new slogan!

Podnart is a small village at the end of the Jelovica plateau and Lipnica Valley, and beside the Sava river. From the outside the restaurant looks somewhat unprepossessing, and in truth the interior is perhaps slightly underwhelming and dated but this belies the ambience and the food, which is certainly far from unprepossessing. I have cycled past countless times, as the restaurant lies directly on the Lowland Cycle Route (http://www.radolca.si/en/lowland-cycling-trail/), and I had always said to myself that I would one day stop off to take a peek. However, since Jostov Hram is also now one of the 7 restaurants that participate in Taste Radol’ca, and as I am working my way around visiting them all, this gave me the perfect opportunity to go, albeit on this occasion I went by car as rain was forecast, and boy did it arrive too! Taste Radol’ca is particularly ideal for a restaurant such as Jostov Hram, as due to its slightly more remote location, it could so be easily overlooked, but by participating in this, as well as being one of the regular participants in the Ljubljana Open Kitchen (Odprta kuhinja), it has assured them greater, and deserved, recognition.

A friend and I visited on a mid-week evening and although the restaurant was quiet, the bar area was busy with locals partaking in a schnapps or two! We dispensed with the need for menus and surrended ourselves to the chef and owner, Miso’s, suggestions and recommendations i.e. a bit of everything! Miso is also ably assisted in the kitchen by his mother – and his bubbly wife Anja, who came to chat with us during dinner to – ensuring its a real family affair. I did also however take a moment to look at the menu just to suss out what else was on offer for future visits (of which there will certainly be), and its fair to say there’s something to cater for all tastes.

We began with roast red peppers, stuffed with cheese and coated in a light batter (and a glass of white for good measure!).

Followed by leskovački ustipaki. There really is no direct translation for these so I’ll describe them – small meat patties made with minced meat, bacon, cheese and seasoning.

The next plate of delights comprised vešalica (pork loin) wrapped in pancetta, served with šobska salad (cucumber, pepper, onion and white cheese – the usual accompaniment to grilled dishes), prebranac (akin to oven-roasted baked beans) and lepinja (a round flat bread).

Dessert was candy for the eyes as well as the palate. A whole apple, peeled and stuffed with apricot jam, in a vanilla and chocolate sauce. Need I say more!

In fact, the whole experience has just left me with one problem – how am I ever going to be able to cycle past again without diving in for sustenance!
Here are just some of the forthcoming events and news in the Radol’ca and Bled areas for the week ahead:

I am the bearer of some very good news for visitors to the area. Following February’s ice-storm, and the huge devastation it left behind, the ever popular Vintgar Gorge re-opened to the public on Friday 16^th May. More about Vintgar Gorge can be found here – http://www.vintgar.si/gorge.html

Tuesday 20^thMay – Bees and Blossoms (Cebela in cvet)

Opening of an exhibition at the Lesce Bee Centre at 6pm, to celebrate the birth of Anton Janša, a pioneer of modern apiculture.

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Saturday 24^thMay – Octet Lip Bled

A concert by the Lip Bled Octet choir will begin at 7pm in the Baroque Hall of the Radovljica Manor – entrance is free.

Saturday 24^th May – Through the Alpine Valley by Bike or on Foot (Po alpskih dolinah s kolesom ali peš)

This event, organised by Triglav National Park, offers recreative cycle tours and walks for all the family. It begins at 10am at the Slovene Alpine Museum in the village of Mojstrana – http://www.bled.si/si/dogodki/2014/05/24/1841-Po-alpskih-dolinah-s-kolesom-ali-pes-v-Radovno-in-Krmo

Sunday 25^th May – Magical Day in Bled (Čarobni Dan)

A day full of magical treats for the whole family. Sports activities, dancing, and a whole host of events and special offers including reduced price entrance to the castle, horse and carriage rides, boat trips, mini-golf, summer sledging and more. More information can be found here – http://www.carobnidan.si/

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

12May2014

Potica of Our Roots / The Babji Zob Cave

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

Potica is probably one of the best known Slovenian sweet treats. It can best be described as something of a cross between a cake and a bread; a dough filled with one of a variety of different fillings. Some of the most popular fillings are poppy seeds, walnuts, curd cheese or tarragon, though there are actually up to 80 different varities of potica including some which are savoury. Although these days potica is available throughout the year, it is most widely sold, and consumed, at Christmas and Easter, when supermarket and bakery shelves are laden with a wide assortment and no family gathering is complete without it. Many people opt to make their own and there are no doubt countless recipes that have been handed down through the generations and which remain a closely guarded family secret.

So it was with interest that I read about a ‘new’ potica that has been created to evoke memories of old. Potica naših korenin, meaning ‘Potica of Our Roots’ was created by one of Slovenia’s top chefs, Uroš Štefelin (seen with co-owner Marcela, below), from Vila Podvin in Mošnje. The idea behind the creation was to use the best Slovene ingredients to create a unique two-flavoured potica, uniting two of the most popular ingredients, walnut and curd cheese, and enriched with dried pears and honey.

I have already written about Vila Podvin in a previous blog (http://wp.me/p3005k-ai ) and you can read more about it in the ‘Taste Radol’ca’ section page. However, on reading about the new potica, I decided it was high time to pay another visit! Since my last visit Vila Podvin now also has an in-house ceramics studio and have launched their own range of pottery, and it was on this that I was served a nice cup of tea (so English!), some of the new potica and, as an added treat, chocolate-covered miniature pears (tepke) and pear schnapps – all of which I can attest were delicious.

So once again after all that eating, it was time to get moving and exploring again and the 1^st May Traditional Walk to the Babji Zob Cave was just the ticket. Babji Zob itself, meaning ‘Hag’s tooth’, is a rock which stands on the northwestern edge of the vast Jelovica plateau and high above the villages of Bohinjska Bela and Kupljenik, near Bled. The entrance to the Babji Zob cave, suggested by some sources to be the second oldest cave in Slovenia, is found at an altitude of 1,008m, so a little effort is required to reach, the path leads steeply up through the forest, but it’s worthwhile. Its relatively remote position makes it all the more surprising that it was discovered ‘by coincidence’ some 200 years ago by a local villager. Unlike some of the larger ‘tourist’ caves in Slovenia, such as those in Postojna and Skocjan, the Babji Zob cave is not open for mass tourism and is usually only open to the public for the traditional 1^st May walk, during the summer on Sundays at 10am, and by prior arrangement with one of the professional guides. There are no fancy Disney-like experiences to be had here but the guides, from the local cave exploration society, have installed makeshift staircases and lighting and with caution, and good footwear, it is possible to see a 300 metre stretch of the cave’s fascinating interior with its dripstone formations and calcite crystals. You can read more about Babji zob, and arrange guided visits here – http://www.bohinjskabela.si/znamenito/index_en.html

Forthcoming events and news:

Friday 16^th May – The Opening of Vurnik’s Days in Radovljica.

IVAN VURNIK (1884–1971) was an architect and urban planner who, along with Jože Plečnik and Maks Fabiana, was considered one of the pioneers of modern architecture and fathers of urban planning in Slovenia. To mark the 130 years since his birth, there will be a series of exhibitions, talks and trips beginning on Friday 16^th May with the opening of exhibitions in the Šivec House Gallery and the Radovljica Mansion. There will be a number of events taking place until the beginning of June and an additional feature will be a special ‘culinary surprise’ Vurnik’s Menu at Vila Podvin restaurant, available until the 2^nd June. More information about Vurnik’s Day can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/vurnikovi-dnevi-v-radovljici/83/434/

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Saturday 17^th May – Triglav National Park Market, Bled

Every third Saturday in the month, there is a small market held at the Triglav National Park Information Centre in Bled from 10am – 12 noon. A variety of local products are offered such as fruit and vegetables, honeys, dried meats, dairy products, herbs and more.

Sunday 18^th May – International Museum Day

To mark International Museum Day, events will be taking place throughout Slovenia. In the local area free entrance will be available to Radovlijca’s museums; Museum of Beekeeping, Municipal Museum, Šivec House Gallery, Iron Forging Museum in Kropa, Museum of Hostages in Begunje. More information about Radovljica’s museums can be found here – http://muzeji-radovljica.si/

Triglav National Park – The Pocar Farmhouse

Additionally, at 12noon on Sunday 18^th May, Triglav National Park’s Information Point in Upper Radovna (Zgornja Radovna) will host an unveiling of restored paintings, an exhibition and short talk at the Pocar Farmhouse (Pocarjeva domacija). The farmhouse itself, one of the oldest homesteads within Triglav National Park, is now a museum. More information can be found here – http://www.tnp.si/experience/C206/

28Apr2014

The river River & the UNESCO Škocjan Caves

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

Prior to coming to live in Slovenia, my life could have been described as somewhat nomadic. As a child there were frequent moves from country to country and from home to home, and this trend continued into adulthood. I have always enjoyed travelling, new experiences and wholeheartedly believe in broadening one’s horizons. However, I must admit that since finding Slovenia, and my adopted home town of Radovljica, where I have now been for 7 years (a record for me), the travel bug has somewhat abated; partly due to financial constraints but also largely due to the fact that I no longer feel that burning urge to travel to pastures new as Slovenia has so much to offer, most of which is right here on my doorstep. Therefore, these days I rarely feel the need to travel far from Radovljica and the surrounding areas of the Julian Alps, the Karavanke range, Bled, Kranjska Gora, Pokljuka etc. If I do, I can either make the short 2 hour flight to the UK to visit friends or family or just jump in the car and drive for a day out to the Slovene coast, the Soča Valley, or even to neighbouring Austria, Italy or Croatia.

One such trip I like to make is to the annual ‘Pohod po ponoru reke Reke’ (Walk beside the Sinkhole of the river River) – note: this isn’t a typo, the name of the river really is ‘The river River’! The walk, which is organised every April by the local Škocjan Tourist Association, begins in the village of Matavun, near Škocjan. From Radovljica, on a quiet Sunday morning, it took about 1hr 15mins to drive there. There is a symbolic 2 euro start fee which covers the organisation, a quick slurp of schnapps at the start and tea and/or another slurp of schnapps and refreshments en-route.

Škocjan itself is best known for the UNESCO listed caves which, due to their ranking among one of the best caves in the world, are undoubtedly one of the ‘must-see’ sights for visitors to Slovenia. Guided tours are available daily, see this link for more information – http://www.park-skocjanske-jame.si/eng/skocjan-caves-park_caves.shtml

Though the annual walk doesn’t lead through the entire cave system, it does offer a glimpse into this mysterious and fascinating underground world, whilst also passing through some delightful and diverse scenery in the surrounding areas before reaching the Škocjan Cave Park and ending at the village of Škocjan. The terrain is varied; some level walking but also a fair few inclines but nothing of great significance and it is therefore suitable for all ages and abilities. The walk takes around 3-4 hours and also passes the ruins of Školj Castle and includes a visit to St. Helen’s Church in the village of Gradišče, known for its frescoes, painted by Jean de Kastav, who also painted the much admired ‘Dance of Death’ frescoes in the Church of the Holy Trinity (Cerkev Sveta Trojica) in Hrastovlje.

This week its school holidays here and also two public May Day holidays on the 1st and 2nd of May. On the eve before the 1st May holidays, it is a tradition in Slovenia to hold bonfire parties, known as ‘kresovanje’. Most towns and some villages have a bonfire – either somewhere in the town or many are also held atop a hill or at mountain huts and people gather in their masses to socialise and raise a glass (or two) beside the bonfires. In Radovljica, the bonfire party is always held next to the SPAR supermarket, at the entrance to the town, and is accompanied by live music. One of the biggest events is held on the Rožnik hill in Ljubljana, which up to 40,000 people attend.

On the 1st May numerous other events also take place across the country. Top of my list this year will be a visit to the cave under the Babji Zob peak, which is near the village of Bohinjska Bistrica, near Bled. I have written previously about hiking in this area (https://adeleinslovenia.wordpress.com/2013/08/05/medieval-radovljica/) but as yet haven’t actually been inside the cave. Usually the cave is only accessible upon prior arrangement with a guide however, every year on the 1st May there is an open-day and guided tours are available on the hour from 9am – 3pm. More information can be found here – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/05/01/1246-Traditional-May-Day-walk-info-the-cavern-under-Mt-Babji-zob

20Apr2014

Gostilna Kunstelj – Taste Radol’ca

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In my personal quest to help promote Radovljica’s great restaurants and ‘Taste Radol’ca‘, and having already written about three of the seven restaurants involved, last week I turned my attention to another – Gostilna Kunstelj – (http://www.kunstelj.si/). I had already visited the restaurant previously to attend a birthday/anniversary celebration, which began in the wine cellar, for the obligatory schnapps and other aperitifs, followed by dinner and live music in one of the halls, as well as having attended the launch event of Taste Radol’ca here too (more about that can be read here – https://adeleinslovenia.wordpress.com/2013/11/17/radolca-taste-the-best/ ). However, until recently I hadn’t ever actually been just for a regular meal. Now however, I’ve been twice in as many weeks – once for ‘Restaurant Week’ and, since it was offering a special chocolated-themed menu to coincide with last weekend’s Chocolate Festival, well, it would have been rude not to…..!

The family run restaurant, located just a few metres from the entrance to Radovljica’s medieval old town, has been in operation since 1873 and still retains the name dating back to its first owner, Rudolf Kunstelj. It later changed hands before the Stiherle family took ownership in 1926 and today the restaurant is still run by the fourth generation of the family.

Gostilna Kunstelj is ideally located within just a few minutes walk of the train and bus stations. Its position affords marvellous views towards the Jelovica Plateau and the Julian Alps, with Slovenia’s highest mountain, Mount Triglav, dominating the skyline. In my seven years of living here, I cannot fail to still admire the view on a daily basis, and I hope that I never will.

The place is huge, with lots of different cosy rooms such as the Hunter’s Room, the Poet’s Room or the Golfers’ room, yet despite its size it still retains a homely, friendly ambience, something which can also be attributed to the warmness of the staff and owners, and it is popular with locals and visitors alike. During the winter I can recommend one of the tables next to the wood burner, whilst in the summer a table on the terrace looking over at the magnificent views, is the place to be.

Gostilna Kunstelj is also a favourite place for group celebrations and events such as wedding receptions, anniversaries, team building, themed events, cookery events and more; it has two halls and a wine cellar which can be adapted to cater for a wide variety of functions.

In addition to the restaurant, there are also 10 guest rooms, each individually and tastefully furnished and, of course, complete with those jaw-dropping views. Bikes are available to hire and its just a quick 2 minute walk to the Radovljica Tourist Information office where you can find a whole wealth of information, maps etc. of the town and surrounding areas.

A speciality of note at Gostilna Kunstelj is the vine in the small Wine Square area which is a descendant of Slovenia’s oldest vine, which isover 400 years old and listed in the Guinness Book of Records, located in Slovenia’s second biggest city of Maribor – http://maribor-pohorje.si/the-old-vine–the-oldest-vine-in-the-world.aspx

The restaurant menu is wide and varied, with an emphasis on local, seasonal produce and traditional Slovene food. As far as possible all the ingredients are local and the delicious chocolate-themed menu I sampled consisted entirely of food locally sourced:

* Herb curd cheese, from the Podjed dairy in nearby Olševek, with wholemeal bread with chocolate pieces – Gorenjka chocolate from the factory in Lesce.

*Roast pork fillet, from the local butcher in Lesce and a farm in Bitnje

*Baked trout – from the Mošnje fish farm

* Chocolate Mousse and grizike* from the 18sedem3 Farmer’s Market shop

Mmm, grizike, otherwise known as cake-pops, I must confess that these are one of my favourite cakes around, although one is never enough so its just as well that they produce a range of 3; white, milk and dark chocolate, each with a different flavoured centre. Though cake-pops are nothing new in the US and UK, they are still something of a novelty here and the Gostilna Kunstelj grizike have been trademarked and they were, almost literally, flying off the shelves at last weekend’s Chocolate Festival. I will certainly be going back for more, again, and again…….. How lucky then that I live just a stone’s throw away.

15Apr2014

Radovljica – A calendar ‘chocful’ of events

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

The long awaited 3^rd Chocolate Festival took place in Radovljica this weekend. Since its beginnings in 2012, the Festival has been going from strength-to-strength with the number of exhibitors increasing every year as they get wind of the popularity of the event and want to be a part of the success. This year the number of visitors also exceeded all expectations with more than 35,000 visitors over the two day event and over 80,000 tasting coupons purchased which, doing the maths, makes for an awful lot of chocolate having been consumed and just goes to prove, as if proof were needed, how popular chocolate really is, and that I’m not alone in my cravings for the stuff! One thing is for sure – this event is here to stay on the Radovljica Events Calendar and looks set to just keep getting bigger and better every year.

In addition to the exhibitors, there were plenty of activities going on for both adults and children including a Chocolate, Cigars and Cognac workshop (strictly adults only!), a Chocolate Fashion Show, the Three Chefs’ Cooking Show – featuring three of Slovenia’s top chefs, the 92kg giant Gorenjka chocolate bar – shared out among visitors, chocolate body painting and so much more….

Below are a few photos from the Festival and there are plenty more on Pinterest – http://www.pinterest.com/adeleinslovenia/radovljica-chocolate-festival-2014/

* Radovljica’s Mayor taking his hand to the giant Gorenjka bar

* Everything imaginable made out of chocolate – even cameras and violins.

*Chocolate painted god and goddess

*A familiar face sampling a treat or two!

I don’t know about you, but when I’m planning to visit somewhere on holiday I always like to see if there are any special events happening that coincide with my visit such as markets, festivals, fairs or concerts. I find these type of events are a great way to get a feel for the local area, taste the local food, mingle with the locals, savour the atmosphere and perhaps find out a few insider snippets too. I also like to do this at home to so I have a few events and things planned in the diary, things to look forward to. The best way to do this these days is of course by scouring the net for information and usually the local tourist information website is the best place to start. However, since I entered the realm of blogging myself, I have also noticed how popular a source of information blogs have become these days, particularly those written by locals that offer an insider’s perspective into life in their city/town/village as well as providing invaluable information about where to go, what to see and do etc. I hope through this blog about my (adopted) home town of Radovljica, I am also able to provide such information and inspiration for potential visitors, both from Slovenia and abroad.

My parents visited from the UK last weekend and, since my father is also a chocolate lover, their visit was well-timed. It was, as it always is, lovely to spend time with them, especially as our time together these days is limited to just a few weekends, either here or in the UK, a few times a year so it makes it even more precious and we certainly packed a lot into the weekend including dinner at Gostilna Kunstelj, to taste their special chocolated-themed menu, two visits to the Chocolate Festival (one was never going to be enough!), a walk on the circular Kriva Jelka path and a visit to the UNESCO listed Skocjan Caves for the annual Pohod ob ponoru reke Reke (Walk along the river River sinkhole – that’s not a typo, the actual name of the river is ‘The river River‘!). More about Gostilna Kunstelj and the Skocjan Caves in the coming days….

In the meantime I’m pleased to be the bearer of good news that the Kriva Jelka path is once again walkable in its entirety, without the need for too much tree ducking and diving – something that has become a fairly regular necessity since the devastation of February’s ice-storm bought down so many trees throughout the country. Since the path runs almost entirely through the Udin Boršt forest, I was wondering if it would be passable but a quick email to the President of the local Tourist Association confirmed that the path had been in the main cleared, (a superhuman feat considering the scale of the work required). I wrote in greater detail about this path last autumn (https://adeleinslovenia.wordpress.com/2013/09/16/the-kriva-jelka-path-and-sweet-treats-ahead/).

There is also currently a colourful Easter themed exhibition in the Manor House in the village of Spodnje Duplje, created by students from the nearby Biotechnical Centre in Naklo, which makes an ideal stopping-off point as the path goes literally past the door of this handsome building.

24Mar2014

Lambergh Chateau – A right royal feast!

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The weather was the talk of the town this week, but this time for the right reason as temperature records were once again shattered with parts of south-east Slovenia basking in temperatures of 27 degrees, which in March is unusual to say the least. Here in the alpine region of Gorenjska, the temperatures didn’t climb quite that high, as is to be expected when there are still metres of snow in the high mountains, but did reach around the 20 degree mark, which was pure bliss while it lasted. The weekend brought a return of the rain, and with it lower temperatures, but its officially spring now so things are looking up.

My week flew by in a whirl as I was quite busy with translating work, meaning several early starts and late finishes, which left less time than I would have liked to make the most of the clement weather. I did however (of course) manage to squeeze in a few short bike rides and am looking forward to many more in the months to come and will of course be blogging about them, and my hikes too.

The week, the first of three Chateau Dinners (Grajska vecerja) took place at Lambergh Chateau in the village of Dvorska vas, near Begunje na Gorenjskem, just a few kilometres from Radovljica.

The history of the Chateau, part of the Lambergh Chateau and Hotel, dates back as far as the 11^th century and was at one time, in the 16^th century, owned by Count Lamberg, hence the name. It was completely renovated in 1531 in the Renaissance style and the latest renovation, in 2011, ensured its original appearance was preserved, along with the modern touches required to bring it into the 21^st century.

It has to be said that the Lambergh Estate didn’t have the most auspicious of starts when it opened a few years back and has since endured a period of closure and several changes of ownership. In the past there was some scepticism about its future but its great to be able to report that the new owners seem to have finally found the right formula and the right team, and for the past year the hotel has been flourishing, often running at full occupancy. It is also a very popular wedding venue and has become an important part of the community. More information about the Estate, and the next Chateau Dinners, on 25^th April and 16^th May, can be found here – http://www.hotel-lambergh.com

The Chateau Dinners are open to both hotel residents and non-residents and take place monthly. The menus are seasonally adjusted and comprise 4 courses, with matching (and plentiful!) wine. On this occasion the wine was provided by the Sartori Estate from the Primorska region of Slovenia, near the town and port of Koper, and diners were also kept amused by the running ‘will they/won’t they’ entertainment provided by Urška and the noble Tonček, as seen below. As well as accommodation and the restaurant, the chateau also houses an intimate wedding chamber, which, together with the small restaurant, makes the ideal venue for smaller group celebrations.

Oh, and of course I must mention the delicious food which didn’t disappoint. Lambergh is also one of the 7 restaurants that participate in the Taste Radol’ca project ( http://wp.me/p3005k-8s) and will also be appearing at the forthcoming Chocolate Festival in Radovljica. Talking of which, as probably the world’s biggest chocoholic, I’m on countdown to the Festival already – just 20 days to go!!! More information about this year’s Chocolate Festival in Radovljica can be found here – http://www.festival-cokolade.si/

Woops, back to the aforementioned food, I got sidetracked by chocolate again……. To started we were served a courgette carpaccio with tomatoes and fresh goats cheese. Next came a gratinated scallop with saffron risotto. And for the main courses deer medallions wrapped with pancetta, potato blinis – which were seriously melt in the mouth and I could have eaten a whole plate of them alone – and a sprout wrap filled with mushrooms and gorgonzola.

And for dessert, an almond parfe with chocolate truffle and berries – need I say more! The food was delicious, a treat for the eyes and the palate and I’m looking forward to the next one already!

10Mar2014

A weekend of winter sports in Gorenjska, Slovenia

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It was a big weekend of winter sporting events in the Gorenjska region of Slovenia. On Pokljuka the World Biathlon Cup took place whilst in Kranjska Gora it was the Vitranc Skiing World Cup competition. Whilst this was great for the many spectators and armchair fans of winter sports, it left me with something of a quandry about where to go in order to avoid crowds and traffic congestion. And with the weather forecast to be glorious all weekend, which it was, I had to come up with something!

Fortunately Radovljica‘s favourable location, flanked by the Karavanke range, the Julian Alps and the Jelovica plateau, means one doesn’t have to go far to have a wealth of options. However, at the moment there is still several metres of snow in the high mountains, whilst at lower altitudes there is the problem of the vast amount of fallen trees resulting from February’s ice-storm. So one has to carefully select where to go bearing all these factors in mind. In the end, I settled on Dovška Baba, part of the Karavanke range, reached from the village of Dovje. I make the hike to the peak of Dovška Baba (1891m) at least a few times a year, usually during the summer and autumn, but it is also popular during the winter, albeit in the current conditions, it is perhaps more suited to ski touring than hiking. From the top there are stunning views in all directions; on the Slovene side across towards the village of Mojstrana, Triglav and the Julian Alps, and into Austria on the other side.

There is a small hut, which isn’t open during the winter, located on the Dovška Rožca highland (1650m) and due to the amount of snow and the hike taking way longer than it would usually do, I only went as far as the hut on this occasion. I walked up on the road, but having later noticed that the path was somewhat trodden, I pondered whether or not to return on the road or the path. In the end I plumped for the path, which leads fairly steeply down through the forest, thus making for a much quicker return trip but also a VERY wet one since by then the snow was incredibly wet as it was so warm and I returned to my car with feet wetter than had I been for a swim!

Everywhere you go at the moment, you can hear the constant and distinctive din of chainsaws, as foresters, and forest owners, go about clearing up the devastation from the ice storm. One the one hand I find the noise comforting, to know that some of the impassable areas may soon once again become passable. However, on the other hand it evokes a degree of sadness at the sheer amount of trees that have been lost. In what could perhaps be considered something of a silver lining, I read this week that hundreds of the unemployed are to be offered the chance to train as foresters in order to help the clear-up operation, which will last several years.

And in another stark reminder, a friend and I had something of an unexpected adventure during our lovely sunny Sunday afternoon stroll, from Radovljica down to the Fux suspension bridge over the Sava river, where we were pleasantly surprised to find the path free of debris. Had we returned the same way it would have been fine, but choosing to take a different path proved to be a mistake and involved us clambering steeply up an embankment due to the sheer number of fallen trees entirely blocking the way ahead. But we survived to tell the tale!

This coming week, on Tuesday 11^th March, on the eve of St. Gregory’s Day, it will be once again time for the local age-old iron-forging custom of floating handmade creations, illuminated by candles, in the streams and villages of the iron-forging villages of Kropa and Kamna Gorica. The events, which begin at 5pm in Kropa and 6pm in Kamna Gorica, involve the floating of the models, which are a mixture of unique art creations made from paper, cardboard and wood with candles affixed either on the exterior or interior, creating a colourful effect against the dusk setting, together with an accompanying programme. This custom dates back to the era of manual iron-forging, before the introduction of the Gregorian calendar in 1582, when the name day of St. Gregory was considered the first day of spring. Unlike last year, this year the spring gods appear to be listening as the week ahead looks set to be bathed in sunshine and pleasant spring temperatures.

Also coming up soon it will once again be ‘Restaurant Week‘ (Teden restavracij – website only in Slovene –http://tedenrestavracij.si/ ) throughout Slovenia. During the period from 22^nd – 30^th March, many of the finest restaurants throughout the country will offer specially prepared menus, of at least three courses, for the set price of just 14 euros per person, which means a great opportunity to try out some new and different restaurants. In the Radovljica area, both Vila Podvin and Gostilna Kunstelj are participating. But hurry, bookings must be made in advance and many restaurants are already fully booked. I’ve made my reservation already!

If you are Facebook user, don’t forget to like the new ‘Adele in Slovenia‘ page, where, in between my weekly blog posts, you will be able to find up-to-date news and information about things happening in Radovljica and the surrounding areas.

3Mar2014

Carnival Time in Radovljica

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

The inaugural Shrovetide Carnival (Pust) Dance took place on Saturday in Radovljica and I was fortunate to be invited. The theme of the dance was ‘Sanitising Slovene Banks’ – bringing a lighthearted note to the otherwise serious problem of the financial crisis and trying to restore the hole in the Slovene banking sector. Since fancy dress was obligatory, and in keeping with the financial theme, I decided to go as Mickey Mouse’s new friend ‘Money Mouse‘!

Guests were greeted in the lobby of the Radovljica Mansion, photographed on the red carpet and given the 10,000 euro banknote, which was specially printed for the event. After an aperitif, ‘Money Mouse’ together with the various nuns, cats, nurses, policemen, lynx (in a nod to the one which is still on the run from Ljubljana Zoo following the destruction caused by the recent ice storm) and others, made their way up to the Baroque Hall where the evening’s entertainment began.

It was impressive to see the efforts everyone had gone to with their costumes and a fun evening was had by all. There was live music, provided by the band Medik and delicious food, provided by the 7 restaurants involved in the Taste Rado’ca project (see http://wp.me/p3005k-8s) ably assisted by students from the Radovljica School of Hospitality and Tourism. Such was the deliciousness of the food, ‘Money Mouse’ rather overindulged but still managed a shuffle and a wiggle of the tail on the dance floor! Let’s hope this event becomes another staple on the Radol’ca Events Calendar.

Earlier in the day the annual Shrovetide Carnival Parade (Pustni sprevod) travelled through Radovljica and even the rain showers didn’t dampen the spirits. The parade was awash with colour as the floats and accompanying costumed participants, with a special tribute to the successful Slovene winter Olympians, proceeded through the town ending in Linhart Square in the old town centre.

As of this week ‘Adele in Slovenia‘ now has its own Facebook page too. Having avoided it thus far, I finally succumbed, or rather was persuaded, in order that I am able to post news and information in between my weekly blogs. You can find a ‘Like’ box towards the bottom right-hand corner of this page, so be sure to ‘Like’ it, if you want access to more news and regular updates. More pictures from this week’s carnival events can also be found on Pinterest.

Earlier in the week the Slovenian Forestry Institute issued the first official estimates of the damage caused by the recent ice storm and it made sombre reading. Up to 660 hectares of forest will require clearing and 7 million cubic metres of wood will have to be cut, twice as much as initially thought. Some 2 million seedlings will be required for replanting and there is now a drive to hire foresters, several hundred are needed. When driving and walking around, there is visible evidence of the destruction but I was particularly shocked and saddened this week, when I went for a walk around Lake Bled, for the first time since the storm, as the path had been closed since. A part of the path was still closed to allow foresters to clear the most affected area, under Bled Castle, which now appears almost barren. Elsewhere entire trees lie in the lake but the great clean-up is already underway and in general the damage is somewhat localised with paths at lower altitudes, where deciduous trees are dominant, being particularly affected.

I have slowly been discovering where is and isn’t safe to walk as many of the paths still remain closed and impassable. There were a couple of days of glorious winter sunshine during the past week and I managed hikes to both the Roblek Mountain Hut (1672m) and the Hut on Dobrča (1478m). It is interesting to note that Roblek, part of the imposing Begunščica mountain, is part of the Karavanke range, the mountains that form the border between Slovenia and Austria in this part of the country, whilst neighbouring Dobrča is actually part of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. The former was without problem whilst the latter, beginning from Slatna, involved a little negotiating of fallen trees to begin with, but was ok once some height had been gained.

24Feb2014

Snow Castles and Successful Slovenia

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

With a total of 8 medals, the success of the Slovenian team at the Sochi Winter Olympics was quite phenomenal; even more so when you consider the population of just 2 million people. I read some interesting statistics; in comparison, the USA, with 316 million people, would have needed to have won 1,106 medals to have equalled Slovenia’s success! Furthermore, there are only 148 registered ice-hockey players in Slovenia but the team made it through to the quarter finals, ranking them among the best 8 hockey teams in the world. Something for all Slovenes to be proud of and the rapturous receptions the competitors have been receiving on their homecoming, certain bears testament to that.

The snow in Radovljica was put to good use last week when, for the second year in succession, a snow castle was built in the old town centre. Locals were invited to come along and help build the castle so it really was a ‘team-town’ effort. Just take a look at these photos, more of which of these and others can be seen on my Pinterest page (http://www.pinterest.com/adeleinslovenia/), to see the results of the work, which was especially impressive when illuminated at night, thanks to the teams at ‘Playful Architecture’ and the ‘Centre for Architecture Slovenia’.

Sunday, the last day of the winter school holidays, at least for those in the west of Slovenia, finally saw the brilliant sunshine that had been lacking all week and it seemed like half the land, if not more, took to the roads, ski pistes, hills and mountains to partake in winter sporting activities. The ski centres were doing a roaring trade and the roads to/from the main resorts, such as Bled, Pokljuka, Bohinj and Kranjska Gora, were thronging as if it were the height of the summer season.

I made the most of the day with a double-whammy of outdoor activities. My day started with an early morning walk to Valvasor (which I wrote about in last week’s blog) then, after some sustenance and a short rest, an afternoon walk to Štefanja Gora, home to the Church of St. Štefan. This hill (748m), is in an idyliic location above Cerklje na Gorenjskem and beneath the Krvavec ski resort. Although not high, there are wonderful and expansive views, to the south across the valley and to the north towards the Karavanke mountains. Just a few minutes beneath the church is the small tourist farm, Pr’Mežnarju, which offers refreshments and the winter sun meant it was even warm enough to sit outside with a nice cuppa!

There are still a huge number of forest and mountain paths closed and inaccessible, due to the fallen trees, and the risk of avalanches still remains high, so it is therefore best to check the conditions before setting off. There is an up-to-date list of the paths closed on the Slovene Mountain Association website (some of the site is in English however this part isn’t), though it is not exhaustive since it lists only the main paths which are known to be closed and have been reported by the relevant section of the Mountain Association – http://www.pzs.si/

Preparations for this year’s traditional Shrovetide carnival ‘pust‘ continue with people busy planning, sewing and creating their fancy dress costumes. The street parade will take place on Saturday 1^st March when Radovljica will be awash with a procession of witches, clowns, animals of every description and a riot of other original costumes. If you want to see it be sure to arrive early, as the surrounding streets are closed to traffic just before, and during, the parade, which will start at 2pm and travel through the centre of Radovljica ending in the old town centre at Linhart Square.

And just a reminder about the new Pust Dance that will also be taking place on the same day in the Radovljica Mansion. This unique event is aimed at reviving the tradition of ‘pust‘ whilst combining it with characteristic cuisine and adding a dash of humour to the times in which we live. For those attending the dance, masks, or costumes, are obligatory and prizes will be awarded for the best ones. A meal will also be served, provided and cooked by the local restaurants involved in the Taste Radol’ca project. The entire evening’s entertainment, including a welcome drink, dinner, dance and guaranteed fun, will cost just 15 euros per person. More information and details about reservations can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/

Hope to see you there, though you might not recognise me!!!

15Feb2014

Seven Years in Slovenia!

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I celebrated my 7th anniversary in Slovenia this week – gosh, how time flies! I spent a pleasant evening with friends who ensured I didn’t spend it alone and who pronounced themselves, resplendent with badges, the official founders of the Adele in Slovenia Fun Club! I’m not yet entirely sure what being a member of this club entails, but watch this space!!!

After what seemed like an eternity, although in reality it was only around three weeks, the sun finally made a very welcome reappearance during the latter part of this week. Alas, it was somewhat brief, but it was much needed and almost at once it felt like the whole country, or at least this little alpine part of it, suddenly breathed a collective sigh of relief after the harsh bout of weather that Slovenia has had to endure during the past few weeks. There is, of course, still a huge clean-up operation taking place and, as is so often the case, once the media have left, little of the remaining work in clearing up after such a disaster, gets any coverage. Current predictions are that it will take at least a year for areas of forest that have been entirely, or at least extensively, devastated to be cleared.

I took full advantage of the few hours of brilliant early morning sunshine on Thursday and made a much longed for trip to Valvasor. Since the heavy snowfall and ice, which caused so much destruction, hiking had become pretty much a no-no, as most paths were inaccessible due to fallen trees. However, having asked around, I heard that the path to the Valvasor mountain hut (Valvasorjev dom), one of my regular winter haunts, was in good condition so I wasted no time in going. I certainly wasn’t alone and was surprised how many other people I met; skiiers, sledgers, hikers – no doubt all of whom had been (im)patiently yearning for some sunshine, much as I had. Incidentally, I noticed there is also now a new winter sports area, including a small cross-country skiing area, a children’s ski area, a sledging track and an ice-rink, located just 300metres from the Završnica reservoir.

It occurred to me whilst listening to the news this week, which was once again dominated by bickering politians and the latest corruption scandals, that perhaps the only upside to all the recent weather related news was that the nation has had a brief respite from all the usual news – the same the world over no doubt! However, this week Slovenia has really had something to celebrate with our winter sports stars performing exceptionally well in Sochi. For the first time in the history of women’s downhill skiing, two gold medals were awarded as Slovenia’s Tina Maze and Switzerland’s Dominique Gisin recorded identical times and were named co-Olympic champions. Other Slovene medallists (so far) are Peter Prevc, silver in the men’s ski jumps, Vesna Fabjan, bronze in cross country skiing and Teja Gregorin, bronze in biathlon.

Here in Radovljica, preparations for this year’s traditional Shrovetide carnival, known here as ‘pust’ are in full swing. The street parade will take place on Saturday 1^st March and is a spectacle of colours as the streets through the town are filled with a procession of floats accompanied by children (big and small!) dressed in handmade costumes and masks. The parade will start at 2pm and travel through the centre of Radovljica ending in the old town centre at Linhart Square.

Additionally, this year a new event will be taking place in the Radovljica Mansion – the Pust Dance. This unique event is aimed at reviving the tradition of pust whilst combining it with characteristic cuisine and adding a dash of humour to the times in which we live. For those attending the dance, masks will be obligatory and prizes will be awarded for the best ones. A meal will also be served, provided and cooked by the local restaurants involved in the Taste Radol’ca project. The entire evening’s entertainment, including a welcome drink, dinner, dance and guaranteed fun, will cost just 15 euros per person. More information and details about reservations can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/

I popped to the capital, Ljubljana, on Friday for a meeting and got ridiculously excited about seeing green grass! I’m not much of a city person usually but after seeing nothing but whiteness for some time now, the sights and sounds of the city were something to behold. Friday was of course Valentines Day too, so love was in the air – apparently! But then there’s always love in Slovenia since it’s the only country with ‘love’ in its name – sLOVEnia!

It’s school holidays for a week now and therefore the ski resorts throughout Slovenia, all of which are operating and have copious snow, will be in full swing. Meanwhile in Radovljica, the Olympic size swimming pool is offering free swimming for children all week from 9am – 11am; perfect for keeping the little ones occupied and out of mischief!

Adele in Slovenia

My life and adventures in Radovljica and throughout Slovenia

Tag Archives: Slovenia

Taste Radol’ca – Joštov Hram, Podnart

Potica of Our Roots / The Babji Zob Cave

The river River & the UNESCO Škocjan Caves

Gostilna Kunstelj – Taste Radol’ca

Radovljica – A calendar ‘chocful’ of events

Lambergh Chateau – A right royal feast!

A weekend of winter sports in Gorenjska, Slovenia

Carnival Time in Radovljica

Snow Castles and Successful Slovenia

Seven Years in Slovenia!