Swimming: Lakes, rivers and pools in Radol’ca and Bled

At this time of the year a lot of people’s thoughts turn to how, and where, to keep cool. So this week I thought I would offer some ideas along those lines. Personally, as someone who can feel the cold even in the midst of a heat wave, I’m not one for cold water, it has to be like a jacuzzi for me to get in it. However for many people, locals and tourists alike, going for a swim or a quick dip in a pool, lake or river is the perfect way to cool down and seek respite from the heat.

RADOVLJICA SWIMMING POOL – The Olympic-size swimming pool in Radovljica is open all year round. During the winter it is covered over but during the summer it is open-air. It also has a pool for kids, beach volleyball, a pizzeria and there’s a campsite right next door.

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KROPA SWIMMING POOL – A 25mx12.5m pool with a separate pool for kids, beach volleyball, a café and a picnic area. The pool is located in the Lipnica Valley at the junction towards Kropa and is open daily during the summer.

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CAMPING ŠOBEC – Take a dip in the Šobec lake at the campsite of the same name. It is also open (admission charge payable) to those not staying at the camp.

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More information about the above can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/swimming/

BLED CASTLE LIDO – The only designated bathing and swimming area by Lake Bled. It is set right beneath Bled Castle and has ample facilities including changing rooms, lockers, toilets and showers, rental of beach umbrellas and rowing boats, snacks and drinks stands.

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BLED LAKE – You can also take a dip directly into the lake. Due to the changeable weather this year, the temperature of the water is a little lower than usual and is currently around 22 degrees.

More information here – http://www.bled.si/en/what-to-do/summer-sports/swimming

For those brave enough, the Sava river is also an option, be it for cooling off, water sports such as rafting, or, as I did last weekend, just sitting relaxing on its banks. Yes, I do relax sometimes – though I had been for a 4 hour bike ride first!!

Of course there are also many other ways of keeping cool in the heat. My preference is to go for a walk in the cool of the forest or high in the mountains and since Slovenia is largely covered by forest and here in Gorenjska there are mountains a plenty, these things are not difficult to find!

And not forgetting ice-cream – an essential summer ingredient which you certainly don’t have to go far to find. There are numerous cafes offering homemade ice-cream. One of my personal favourites in Radovljica is Vidic House (Vidičeva hisa) in the old town centre of Radovljica where there are a wide variety of flavours and generous portions to match, whilst in Bled I usually head for the famous Šmon Pattiserie which, in addition to ice-cream, offers an impressive (and irrestistible!) range of cakes and pastries.

Here’s a selection of events coming up in the week ahead:

Tuesday 22nd July – Concert of the 17th Pikolo Flute Workshop – 8pm at Bled Castle

Wednesday 23rd July – Concert from the opera ‘La Boheme –  8pm in the Radovljica Manor – Tickets available from the Radovljica Tourist Information Office

Thursday 24th July – Music Thursdays ‘Neomi’ – 8pm in Linhart Square, Radovljica – Free open-air concert

Friday 25th July – Concert of the 17th Pikolo Flute Workshop – 6pm at Bled Golf Hotel

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

Hop-On Hop-Off Bus: Bled, Radovljica and the Julian Alps

Following a spectacular storm on Sunday evening, Monday morning saw a rather chilly start to the new week with even a sprinkling of fresh snow on the top of Stol, which I wrote about last week, and more than a sprinkling in the high mountains. If you use Facebook, check out the photo I posted of the snow at the Kredarica mountain hut, beneath Triglav. Thankfully, the forecast for the rest of the week looks more promising with temperatures set to soar.

After a successful introduction last year, this year the new Radol’ca Hop-on, Hop-Off Bus will be operating throughout the summer from the 1st July to the 31st August and will cover two local routes now including Bled:

Every Tuesday: Bled – Radovljica – Kropa – Radovljica – Bled

Every Thursday: Bled – Radovljica – Begunje – Brezje – Radovljica – Bled

In addition, this year, for the first time in 23 years, a special bus will operate at weekends from Bled to Bohinj and Pokljuka within Triglav National Park:

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The price of a one-day ticket is just 5 euros per person with children under the age of 10 travelling for free.

In addition to being able to get on and off the bus at various points and see the towns and sights of interest, there will also be addition benefits to travelling by the bus, such as free or reduced entrance fees to museums and galleries, guided tours of the towns and villages in the area, gingerbread, cookery and candle-making workshops (supplement payable), walking paths and more. Of course, it’s also a more relaxed way to travel with time to sit back and enjoy the sights, and more environmentally friendly too – so a win, win all round!

http://www.radolca.si/hop-on-hop-off-radolca/

On Friday I attended the opening of the new Fitness Trim Trail in Bled on the small Straža ski slope. During the summer Straža operates as a toboggan track and there is also the Bled Adventure Park and two snack bars. As well as the various activities, Straža is also a pleasant place to visit for a walk and it is well worth making the effort to walk up to the top (or take the chairlift if that sounds too much like hard work!) for the views over Bled lake, the castle, the Karavanke mountains which are quite stunning.

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Another new addition to Straža is the Land of Slovenian Folk Tales, as seen below, and more information here – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/07/05/1904-Land-of-slovenian-folk-tales

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Straža is also synonymous with the Swiss doctor Arnold Rikli. Born in 1823, Rikli was largely responsible for the beginnings of Bled’s boom in tourism. His focus was on ‘healing tourism’ as he worked and learned the value and benefits of the climate and natural gifts of Bled. His work was guided by the principle: ‘Water works wonder, air can do even more, but light does the most of all.’ He founded the Institute of Natural Healing and introduced a new method of treatment. In 1859, Rikli ordered the building of simple wooden Swiss style baths (opposite the then Park Hotel) and also constructed huts for patient accommodation.

Walks around the Bled area were a key part of Rikli’s healing programme. There were strict house rules that all patients had to observe. Early starts (5-6am), followed by walks and outdoor physical activity. To improve their circulation patients walked barefoot and during the day they bathed, sunbathed and rested. Treatment helped diseases such as rheumatism, migraines, insomnia and obesity, Rikli’s methods became very popular and successful and through this, Bled became known far and wide. Today, his methods are still celebrated and remembered, particularly at the time of the popular annual Rikli Walk which takes place this coming weekend on Sunday 6th July. Anyone can join in the walk and it’s a great chance to see other parts of Bled, such as Straža and the Osojnica hill, as well as experiencing some of Rikli’s methods. Be prepared for some bathing, barefoot walking and fun! The walk begins at 7am in front of the Golf Hotel.

Here’s a small pick of this week’s forthcoming events:

1st – 17th July: 19th International Bled Music Festivalhttp://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/07/05/1329-19th-Festival-Bled-2014

Thursday 3rd July at 8pm (and every Thursday in July): Music Thursdays – Enjoy listening to live music in Linhart Square in Radovljica’s medieval old town centre.

Thursday 3rd July at 9pm (and every Thursday during July and August): Join the Triglav National Park rangers for ‘Storytelling by the Fire’ at the Šobec campsite – Listen to the myths and fairy tales of the Slovene mountains. The event is free and is in both English and Slovene.

Saturday 5th July from 9am – 6pm: Iron Forging Festival in Kropa – Watch live demonstrations, browse the market stalls, free entrance to the Iron Forging Museum, the Fovšaritnica Museum House and the Vice Spike Forge, and more.

Saturday 5th July from 9pm – White Night in Bled: http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/07/05/1582-White-night-2014

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

 

 

 

 

 

Cycling and Ceramics – The Radovna Valley and Radovljica

Phew, what a scorcher of a weekend. Temperatures were, and still are, up in the high-twenties/early thirties and the sights, sounds and smells of summer abound. I’m in my element at this time of year as I love the heat, the wild flowers in the meadows, hearing the chirp of crickets, the cloudless blue skies, trying the myriad flavours of ice-cream (illuminous blue ‘Smurf’ flavour anyone?!), and of course pursuing all my favourite sporting activities, in particular, cycling.

On Sunday I set off for my first, of doubtless many, of this year’s rides through the Radovna valley, which is always an oasis of cool when temperatures soar. The start of the 16km Radovna Cycle Route officially begins where the village of Gorje ends and the road begins to climb upwards toward the Pokljuka plateau. From here a right turn leads downhill to cross a bridge over the Radovna river, for the first of many ‘wow’ moments of the ride.

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The Radovna Valley is between the Mežakla and Pokljuka plateaus and is part of Triglav National Park. Though it is usual to encounter a few cars along the path, they are fortunately fairly few and far between (and in fact today I only met a few motorbikes and no cars at all) as the road is mostly unmade and best explored by bike. I certainly hope it remains this way as cars travelling along the road create a lot of dust which is most unpleasant for cyclists and besides, there are more than enough roads elsewhere so I say ‘Leave this path to us cyclists!’. Along the route there are a number of places to stop, information boards and sights of interest such as the Psnak Mill, the burnout ruins of Radovna and the Napoleon Stone, as seen below. According to tradition, the Emperor Napoleon’s initials were carved into the stone when his army was said to have marched though the valley at the beginning of the 19th century.

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My ride however was significantly longer as I set off from home, first to Bled then on through Gorje to the Radovna valley. Instead of then continuing to the head of the valley I took a right turn across the pastureland and past the popular Psnak Tourist Farm and restaurant, from where there are breathtaking views of the Julian Alps rising up above the Kot and Krma valleys – definitely right up there among my favourite views around – and then up the short but sharp 18% incline before the long well-earned descent to the village of Mojstrana. From there it was a short section of road riding to meet up with the D2 cycle path again in Jesenice, back through Zirovnica, and then via the Imperial road to return to Radovljica. I don’t have any type of bike GPS or other measuring device, as I’m not one for obsessing over measuring distances, but I’d guestimate the round trip is at least 60km. You can see more pictures on my Pinterest page.

Despite Slovenia being crammed full of unspoilt countryside, forests and quiet backwaters, unfortunately it does lag behind somewhat when it comes to designated cycle paths, something that was evident, as it is every weekend and holiday during fine weather, by the lengthy procession of bike-laden cars I witnessed this morning heading towards the Mojstrana to Kranjska Gora cycle path – one of the few safe, traffic free i.e. family-friendly, routes in this area. Progress is however being (slowly) made and the D2 route has now been extended through Jesenice, meaning it is no longer necessary to ride on the road through the town itself. The final part of the link of the D2 from Jesenice to Mojstrana has yet to be completed and remains only suitable for those with mountain bikes.

Saturday was more of a working day for me, however I did find time to pop along to the International Ceramics Festival in Radovljica’s old town centre to browse the stalls, take a few photos and taste some of the food on offer from some of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants, namely Gostilna Kunstelj and Jostov Hram – as pictured below. The brightly coloured bowls were painted by children from primary schools in Radovljica and the surrounding villages.

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Next weekend Bled will be hosting the 59th International Rowing Regatta. The event will begin on Friday with elimination heats starting at 4pm, with final events taking place on both Saturday and Sunday from 9am – 12.30pm, Lake Bled has long been a favourite and important location for some of the world’s major rowing events. Many national and international regattas are held there, as have been World Championships, and local oarsmen have successfully brought home numerous medals from major championships and Olympic games.

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© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

 

 

 

 

 

The Slovenian Alps (Gorenjska) Guest Green Card

The area of Slovenia that I live in is called Gorenjska, otherwise known as the Slovenian Alps region, and, in my biased opinion, the most beautiful part of the country –  although pretty much everywhere you go in Slovenia you are spoilt for choice with stunning views, unspoilt countryside, sprawling forests, tranquil valleys, rolling hills and mighty mountains, crystal-clear rivers and lakes, fairytale castles and more.

Visitors to the Gorenjska region, who stay at least one night at one of the participating accommodation providers, can take advantage of the free Gorenjska Guest Green Card which is a benefit card offering discounts on sights of interest, culinary delights, sports activities and other experiences in the region.

As an example, I’ve listed below just some of the places and experiences where discount is available, at some of the more popular tourist destinations, but there are also many more throughout the region including in Radovljica, Bled, Kranjska Gora, Bohinj, Kranj, Škofja Loka, Jesenice, Jezersko, Tržič and Žirovnica. More information can be found here – http://www.slovenian-alps.com/en/greencard/about

  • Lectar Inn and Gingerbread Museum, Radovlijca
  • The Radovljica Museum of Beekeeping, Guided Beekeeping tours
  • The Šivec House Gallery, Radovljica
  • The Iron-Forging Museum, Kropa
  • The Restaurant at Bled Castle
  • Bled Island
  • Bled Golf Course
  • The Castle Boathouse
  • Triglav National Park tours
  • The Bohinj Steam Train
  • The Tourist Train around Bled Lake
  • Škofja Loka Castle and Gallery

This past week has been very April-like with not a day passing by without a shower or two. I’ve been fairly snowed-under with work so haven’t been able to make as many trips out as I would have usually, but fortunately on Saturday afternoon, when I ventured up to Bled Castle to watch the annual ‘Medieval Days’ event, the sun was shining in all its glory and Bled lake was looking at its shimmering best. It is possible to drive up to the castle but I, naturally, chose to walk up – it’s not that far and the effort makes the views all the more rewarding.

The Medieval Days event is a coming-together of medieval groups, not only from Slovenia but also from other European countries, who come to participate in the battle re-enactments and be a part of the event. Visitors can mingle among the groups, talk to them, take a close up look at their costumes, weapons and armoury, browse the market stalls, watch the traditional craftsman at work and, as I did, generally enjoy the atmosphere and the far-reaching views across Bled, the Radovljica plains and the Karavanke range.

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This week Radovljica is hosting an International Ceramics Festival (http://www.radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/mednarodni-festival-keramike-radovljica-2014/83/591/). Various events, exhibitions and workshops are taking place throughout the week with the main event ‘Market Day‘ taking place from 10am-6pm on Saturday 7th June. The old town centre and the Radovljica Manor will be abuzz with exhibitors and vendors of a wide array of ceramic products of all shapes and sizes, free workshops for children, music and entertainment, and food from the Taste Radol’ca restaurants. There will also be an opportunity to buy specially-made bowls and have them filled with a choice of the tasty food on offer – so you know where you’ll find me lurking – I so nearly managed a whole blog without the mention of food!

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

 

 

Golica’s Daffodils / Cycling Bled to Bohinj

Golica is one of the most known peaks in the Karavanke range and is at its most popular during May when the daffofils which grow on its slopes are in full bloom.

If I crane my neck I can just about see Golica from my bedroom window so I had been looking daily to see whether the snow would melt quickly enough to coincide with the daffodils blooming. A few weeks ago the snow was beginning to melt but then a cold snap brought rain to the valley and snow at higher altitudes, meaning Golica was once again snow-capped. Now however, thanks to the glorious temperatures of the past week, the sunny side of Golica i.e. the Slovene side, is largely snow free and now is the perfect time to make the trip – be quick though, the daffodils on the lower slopes are already almost past their best, but up higher they are just coming into their peak bloom.

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It’s always one of my favourite times of the year as the blossoming of the daffodils is a sure sign of the end of winter and the promise of the sunnier, warmer months to come.

There are a number of ways of reaching Golica. Among then, routes lead from the villages of Planina pod Golico, Javorniški rovt or from the Dom Pristava mountain hut. Always one to choose a circular route if it is possible, I usually opt for the route which leads past the Sava Caves (Savske jame) and upwards through pastures, before traversing the high ridge with stunning views of Slovenia on one side, and Austria on the other. After the final ascent to the highest point of Golica (1836m) a gully leads down to the mountain hut Koča na Golici (1582m), where drinks and traditional Slovene mountain food can be bought and enjoyed – with stunning views at no extra cost! From the hut, a path leads down through the forest, eventually returning to the start of the route. Note – there is also a more direct, steeper ‘winter’ path down through the forest which is, true to its name, steep, and involves a couple of sections of secured climbing.

Last Sunday saw the revival of a tradition dating back 80 years, whereby visitors from far and wide come to Radovljica by train (or otherwise) to the event entitled ‘By Train to Lectar for Goulash, Ritoznojčan and Rolls’ (Z vlakom k Lectarju na golaz in ritoznojčna – kot nekoc). After boarding the train, complete with entertainment and schnapps upon arrival in Radovljica, visitors were escorted on the short few minute walk from the train station into the medieval town centre where they were greeted by Lectar’s ever-jovial owner, Jože, live music, gallons of cauldron-cooked goulash and the ‘Ritoznojčan’ wine – transported by old-timer bus by vintners from the Ritoznoj hills in the Štajerska region of Slovenia. The event was a great success, well attended both by those visiting Radovljica and locals, some even went to the effort of dressing up in period clothing, and looks set to be another valuable addition to the ever expanding Radovljca Events Calendar. More photos of the event can be seen on Pinterest.

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There has long been call for there to be a cycle path between the popular tourist destinations of Bled and Bohinj – alas it has never come to fruition and in truth, it is unlikely to do so, at least for the foreseeable future. Although it is possible to cycle between the two places, the road, particularly during the height of summer, is narrow and busy and although I have cycled it on several occasions, it’s really not suitable for family cycle trips. Those with mountain bikes and an acute sense of direction can make the long trip up over Jelovica – but the plateau is vast and it would be very easy to lose your bearings, so for visitors again isn’t advisable unless you are with a local and/or guide. The good news however is that in recognition of this need, the Bled-Bohinj Cycle Day was started last year and its intended it will now be an annual event. This year the event will be held on Saturday 31st May, beginning at 8am when groups of cyclists will set off towards Bohinjska Bela and cycle beside the Sava river to Nomenj. Sections of the road will be closed at 11am to ensure the safe passage of cyclists to Ribčev Laz and Bohinj Lake. At 1pm the event will end at the Senožeta Sports Centre in Srednja vas, where cyclists will be rewarded with refreshments. The recommended return route is by bike to Bohinjska Bistrica then by train to return to Bled. Weather permitting, it promises to be great day out for all the family. Prior registration is required and more information can be found here – http://www.bled.si/si/dogodki/2014/05/31/1324-Kolesarski-dan-Bled-Bohinj

This past week was also marked by a minor celebration on the achievement of my blog receiving its 20,000 reader – something which is all the more astonishing since it means that in the first 5 months of 2014, there have been as many readers as in the whole of 2013. To date, readers have come from over 90 countries. To say I’m delighted is an understatement and I hope the trend will continue. Thanks to all of you for finding and reading my blog and for all the lovely feedback and messages I have received – which help to make the effort worthwhile. Long may it continue!

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

 

 

Taste Radol’ca – Gostišče Tulipan

Regular readers of my blog will notice that it has received something of a facelift! The new layout and design has additional pages and I have also made it easier for you to connect directly to my Facebook page (be sure to ‘like’ it if you want to keep updated with the latest news and events in the area) and Pinterest (for photos). There is also a search box where you can enter any key words, such as ‘The Julian Alps’, and you will find all posts from the archives related to that, plus a ‘Follow‘ box whereby you can opt to automatically receive new posts every time they are published. I hope you like it!

 

One of the great things I’ve discovered about writing my blog is that it has also helped me to discover some of the great things on offer in Radovljica and the surrounding areas that are right there under my nose but I have, thus far, neglected to see and do. It’s so often the case isn’t it, that we become blinkered and fail to stop and appreciate what is on our doorsteps. For example, when I was working in London I rarely, if ever, took the time to stop and admire the architecture, to appreciate the diversity of the culture on offer and to visit the many sights that are so appealing to tourists. Now however, when I visit the UK as a tourist myself, I see it from an entirely different perspective and revel in feeling like a tourist once again. This could so easily also the case here in Slovenia, but despite having lived here for 7 years now, I still find myself with an unquenchable desire to explore, to find new places to hike, cycle, visit, eat and to meet more interesting people. Writing my blog is also a driver of this as it gives me the impetus to ‘get out there’ and discover and make the most of what surrounds me.

 

And so it was, that after 7 years of having driven past but inexplicably never been inside, I visited the restaurant and guest house Gostišče Tulipan in Lesce. Having done so, I simply cannot understand why I hadn’t been before, more fool me, since after visiting for the first time on a surprisingly busy midweek evening, I then found myself there again 3 nights later with a friend visiting from the UK, and once again during the following week. I’m in no doubt that I will be frequenting their establishment in the near future again too – what a revelation!
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Gostišče Tulipan consists of a large main restaurant, the smaller Hunter’s Room, a winter garden, terrace and 6 guest rooms. What I particular noticed was the warm welcome I received and the complimentary aperitif received whilst perusing the menu was a nice touch. In fact, despite the long and comprehensive menu, the decision was made easy for me as I discovered that due to the success of the menu specially prepared for the week of the Radovjlica Chocolate Festival, they had decided to continue offering the menu for the entire month so I plumped for that with no hesitation.

 

The speciality of the restaurant is that everything that is used is either home-grown, in their own garden, and/or sourced locally and only the freshest, seasonal produce is used. They offer a wide menu with a variety of house dishes and specialities including game, fish, meat, pasta and a salad bar laden with choice. The menu I chose consisted of the following and was excellent value at 13 euros for 3 courses:

 

  • ‘Chamois’ Soup with a pheasant dumpling and vegetables

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  • Roast chicken fillet with teran sauce and strawberries, homemade chocolate strukelj with prunes, asparagus cream

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  • Chocolate cake (known as hind of deer due to its shape) with greengage jam and tarragon ice-cream

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Gostišče Tulipan is also one of the 7 restaurants that participate in the Taste Radol’ca project. I have now added an entire section of my blog about this – see the ‘Taste Radol’ca tab above. More about Tulipan can be found here – http://www.tulipan-azman.si

 

This past week there were 2 public holidays as well as it being school holidays all week. I had quite a few things planned but the weather was rather unpredictable all week, with heavy afternoon showers every day, which somewhat curtailed my plans but nevertheless I still managed to get out hiking and cycling every day and on the 1st May holiday I visited the mysterious world of the Babji zob cave and also visited Vila Podvin to test out the new kind of potica, which is a traditional rolled filled cake ‘potica iz naših korenin‘ – more about both of these next week.

 

Meanwhile, this week on Friday 9th May a ‘European Village‘ will be created in Linhart Square in Radovljica’s old town. This now annual event sees pupils from schools in the local area setting up stalls representing each of the different EU countries and presenting their culture, food and other traditions. The ‘village’ will be open from 9am – 1pm and entrance is free. More information about this and other events can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/

 

In Bled the International Cocktail Competition will take place on the 6th and 7th of May at the Panorama Restaurant and the 46th International Writers’ Meeting will take place from the 7th – 10th May with this year’s theme being based on 1st World War literature entitled ‘Faces of Peace – A Farewell to Arms’. More information about both these events can be found here – http://www.bled.si/en/

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

The river River & the UNESCO Škocjan Caves

Prior to coming to live in Slovenia, my life could have been described as somewhat nomadic. As a child there were frequent moves from country to country and from home to home, and this trend continued into adulthood. I have always enjoyed travelling, new experiences and wholeheartedly believe in broadening one’s horizons. However, I must admit that since finding Slovenia, and my adopted home town of Radovljica, where I have now been for 7 years (a record for me), the travel bug has somewhat abated; partly due to financial constraints but also largely due to the fact that I no longer feel that burning urge to travel to pastures new as Slovenia has so much to offer, most of which is right here on my doorstep. Therefore, these days I rarely feel the need to travel far from Radovljica and the surrounding areas of the Julian Alps, the Karavanke range, Bled, Kranjska Gora, Pokljuka etc. If I do, I can either make the short 2 hour flight to the UK to visit friends or family or just jump in the car and drive for a day out to the Slovene coast, the Soča Valley, or even to neighbouring Austria, Italy or Croatia.

One such trip I like to make is to the annual ‘Pohod po ponoru reke Reke’ (Walk beside the Sinkhole of the river River) – note: this isn’t a typo, the name of the river really is ‘The river River’! The walk, which is organised every April by the local Škocjan Tourist Association, begins in the village of Matavun, near Škocjan. From Radovljica, on a quiet Sunday morning, it took about 1hr 15mins to drive there. There is a symbolic 2 euro start fee which covers the organisation, a quick slurp of schnapps at the start and tea and/or another slurp of schnapps and refreshments en-route.

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Škocjan itself is best known for the UNESCO listed caves which, due to their ranking among one of the best caves in the world, are undoubtedly one of the ‘must-see’ sights for visitors to Slovenia. Guided tours are available daily, see this link for more information – http://www.park-skocjanske-jame.si/eng/skocjan-caves-park_caves.shtml

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Though the annual walk doesn’t lead through the entire cave system, it does offer a glimpse into this mysterious and fascinating underground world, whilst also passing through some delightful and diverse scenery in the surrounding areas before reaching the Škocjan Cave Park and ending at the village of Škocjan. The terrain is varied; some level walking but also a fair few inclines but nothing of great significance and it is therefore suitable for all ages and abilities. The walk takes around 3-4 hours and also passes the ruins of Školj Castle and includes a visit to St. Helen’s Church in the village of Gradišče, known for its frescoes, painted by Jean de Kastav, who also painted the much admired ‘Dance of Death’ frescoes in the Church of the Holy Trinity (Cerkev Sveta Trojica) in Hrastovlje.

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This week its school holidays here and also two public May Day holidays on the 1st and 2nd of May. On the eve before the 1st May holidays, it is a tradition in Slovenia to hold bonfire parties, known as ‘kresovanje’. Most towns and some villages have a bonfire – either somewhere in the town or many are also held atop a hill or at mountain huts and people gather in their masses to socialise and raise a glass (or two) beside the bonfires. In Radovljica, the bonfire party is always held next to the SPAR supermarket, at the entrance to the town, and is accompanied by live music. One of the biggest events is held on the Rožnik hill in Ljubljana, which up to 40,000 people attend.

On the 1st May numerous other events also take place across the country. Top of my list this year will be a visit to the cave under the Babji Zob peak, which is near the village of Bohinjska Bistrica, near Bled. I have written previously about hiking in this area (https://adeleinslovenia.wordpress.com/2013/08/05/medieval-radovljica/) but as yet haven’t actually been inside the cave. Usually the cave is only accessible upon prior arrangement with a guide however, every year on the 1st May there is an open-day and guided tours are available on the hour from 9am – 3pm. More information can be found here – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/05/01/1246-Traditional-May-Day-walk-info-the-cavern-under-Mt-Babji-zob

Gostilna Kunstelj – Taste Radol’ca

In my personal quest to help promote Radovljica’s great restaurants and ‘Taste Radol’ca‘, and having already written about three of the seven restaurants involved, last week I turned my attention to another – Gostilna Kunstelj – (http://www.kunstelj.si/). I had already visited the restaurant previously to attend a birthday/anniversary celebration, which began in the wine cellar, for the obligatory schnapps and other aperitifs, followed by dinner and live music in one of the halls, as well as having attended the launch event of Taste Radol’ca here too (more about that can be read here – https://adeleinslovenia.wordpress.com/2013/11/17/radolca-taste-the-best/ ). However, until recently I hadn’t ever actually been just for a regular meal. Now however, I’ve been twice in as many weeks – once for ‘Restaurant Week’ and, since it was offering a special chocolated-themed menu to coincide with last weekend’s Chocolate Festival, well, it would have been rude not to…..!

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The family run restaurant, located just a few metres from the entrance to Radovljica’s medieval old town, has been in operation since 1873 and still retains the name dating back to its first owner, Rudolf Kunstelj. It later changed hands before the Stiherle family took ownership in 1926 and today the restaurant is still run by the fourth generation of the family.

Gostilna Kunstelj is ideally located within just a few minutes walk of the train and bus stations. Its position affords marvellous views towards the Jelovica Plateau and the Julian Alps, with Slovenia’s highest mountain, Mount Triglav, dominating the skyline. In my seven years of living here, I cannot fail to still admire the view on a daily basis, and I hope that I never will.

The place is huge, with lots of different cosy rooms such as the Hunter’s Room, the Poet’s Room or the Golfers’ room, yet despite its size it still retains a homely, friendly ambience, something which can also be attributed to the warmness of the staff and owners, and it is popular with locals and visitors alike. During the winter I can recommend one of the tables next to the wood burner, whilst in the summer a table on the terrace looking over at the magnificent views, is the place to be.

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Gostilna Kunstelj is also a favourite place for group celebrations and events such as wedding receptions, anniversaries, team building, themed events, cookery events and more; it has two halls and a wine cellar which can be adapted to cater for a wide variety of functions.

In addition to the restaurant, there are also 10 guest rooms, each individually and tastefully furnished and, of course, complete with those jaw-dropping views. Bikes are available to hire and its just a quick 2 minute walk to the Radovljica Tourist Information office where you can find a whole wealth of information, maps etc. of the town and surrounding areas.

A speciality of note at Gostilna Kunstelj is the vine in the small Wine Square area which is a descendant of Slovenia’s oldest vine, which isover 400 years old and listed in the Guinness Book of Records, located in Slovenia’s second biggest city of Maribor – http://maribor-pohorje.si/the-old-vine–the-oldest-vine-in-the-world.aspx

The restaurant menu is wide and varied, with an emphasis on local, seasonal produce and traditional Slovene food. As far as possible all the ingredients are local and the delicious chocolate-themed menu I sampled consisted entirely of food locally sourced:

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* Herb curd cheese, from the Podjed dairy in nearby Olševek, with wholemeal bread with chocolate pieces – Gorenjka chocolate from the factory in Lesce.

*Roast pork fillet, from the local butcher in Lesce and a farm in Bitnje

*Baked trout – from the Mošnje fish farm

* Chocolate Mousse and grizike* from the 18sedem3 Farmer’s Market shop

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Mmm, grizike, otherwise known as cake-pops, I must confess that these are one of my favourite cakes around, although one is never enough so its just as well that they produce a range of 3; white, milk and dark chocolate, each with a different flavoured centre. Though cake-pops are nothing new in the US and UK, they are still something of a novelty here and the Gostilna Kunstelj grizike have been trademarked and they were, almost literally, flying off the shelves at last weekend’s Chocolate Festival. I will certainly be going back for more, again, and again…….. How lucky then that I live just a stone’s throw away.

Radovljica – A calendar ‘chocful’ of events

The long awaited 3rd Chocolate Festival took place in Radovljica this weekend. Since its beginnings in 2012, the Festival has been going from strength-to-strength with the number of exhibitors increasing every year as they get wind of the popularity of the event and want to be a part of the success. This year the number of visitors also exceeded all expectations with more than 35,000 visitors over the two day event and over 80,000 tasting coupons purchased which, doing the maths, makes for an awful lot of chocolate having been consumed and just goes to prove, as if proof were needed, how popular chocolate really is, and that I’m not alone in my cravings for the stuff! One thing is for sure – this event is here to stay on the Radovljica Events Calendar and looks set to just keep getting bigger and better every year.

 

In addition to the exhibitors, there were plenty of activities going on for both adults and children including a Chocolate, Cigars and Cognac workshop (strictly adults only!), a Chocolate Fashion Show, the Three Chefs’ Cooking Show – featuring three of Slovenia’s top chefs, the 92kg giant Gorenjka chocolate bar – shared out among visitors, chocolate body painting and so much more….

 

Below are a few photos from the Festival and there are plenty more on Pinterest – http://www.pinterest.com/adeleinslovenia/radovljica-chocolate-festival-2014/

* Radovljica’s Mayor taking his hand to the giant Gorenjka bar

3. festival čokolade v Radovljici, 12. 4. 2014.

* Everything imaginable made out of chocolate – even cameras and violins.

3. festival čokolade v Radovljici, 12. 4. 2014.

*Chocolate painted god and goddess

3. festival čokolade v Radovljici, 13. 4. 2014.

*A familiar face sampling a treat or two!

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I don’t know about you, but when I’m planning to visit somewhere on holiday I always like to see if there are any special events happening that coincide with my visit such as markets, festivals, fairs or concerts. I find these type of events are a great way to get a feel for the local area, taste the local food, mingle with the locals, savour the atmosphere and perhaps find out a few insider snippets too. I also like to do this at home to so I have a few events and things planned in the diary, things to look forward to. The best way to do this these days is of course by scouring the net for information and usually the local tourist information website is the best place to start. However, since I entered the realm of blogging myself, I have also noticed how popular a source of information blogs have become these days, particularly those written by locals that offer an insider’s perspective into life in their city/town/village as well as providing invaluable information about where to go, what to see and do etc. I hope through this blog about my (adopted) home town of Radovljica, I am also able to provide such information and inspiration for potential visitors, both from Slovenia and abroad.

 

My parents visited from the UK last weekend and, since my father is also a chocolate lover, their visit was well-timed. It was, as it always is, lovely to spend time with them, especially as our time together these days is limited to just a few weekends, either here or in the UK, a few times a year so it makes it even more precious and we certainly packed a lot into the weekend including dinner at Gostilna Kunstelj, to taste their special chocolated-themed menu, two visits to the Chocolate Festival (one was never going to be enough!), a walk on the circular Kriva Jelka path and a visit to the UNESCO listed Skocjan Caves for the annual Pohod ob ponoru reke Reke (Walk along the river River sinkhole – that’s not a typo, the actual name of the river is ‘The river River‘!). More about Gostilna Kunstelj and the Skocjan Caves in the coming days….

 

In the meantime I’m pleased to be the bearer of good news that the Kriva Jelka path is once again walkable in its entirety, without the need for too much tree ducking and diving – something that has become a fairly regular necessity since the devastation of February’s ice-storm bought down so many trees throughout the country. Since the path runs almost entirely through the Udin Boršt forest, I was wondering if it would be passable but a quick email to the President of the local Tourist Association confirmed that the path had been in the main cleared, (a superhuman feat considering the scale of the work required). I wrote in greater detail about this path last autumn (https://adeleinslovenia.wordpress.com/2013/09/16/the-kriva-jelka-path-and-sweet-treats-ahead/).


There is also currently a colourful Easter themed exhibition in the Manor House in the village of Spodnje Duplje, created by students from the nearby Biotechnical Centre in Naklo, which makes an ideal stopping-off point as the path goes literally past the door of this handsome building.

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014

Lectar Inn, Radovljica – Taste Radol’ca

In the seven years since I’ve been living here, the range and quality of the cuisine on offer in Radovljica, and the surrounding towns and villages collectively known as Radol’ca, has always been solid, based on traditional, plentiful and flavourful food. However, since the creation of the Taste Radol’ca project last year, together with the opening of new venues such as Vila Podvin and Chateau Lambergh, the choice, quality and innovation of the cuisine on offer has rocketed and with new ideas and ventures being added to the events calendar all the time, its certainly an exciting time to be a foodie, as I am, in the Radol’ca area.


The Taste Radol’ca collaboration has certainly bought strength in numbers, led to new initiatives and inspired creative juices among the already talented chefs who work in the area. To this end it has meant all the restaurants involved have upped their game and are offering food which deserves to be shouted about. And since they are so modest, I decided to offer a gentle nudge and to be the one to begin the shouting! It is with this in mind that I will be adding a new section to my blog entitled ‘Taste Radol’ca’ where I will write a series of shorter blogs about the restaurants I have visited and will also be able to keep readers updated about forthcoming events. I will also post more information and updates on my Adele in Slovenia Facebook page (use the ‘LIKE’ button opposite to stay up-to-date).


So it seemed fitting to start this week with the Slovene institution that is Lectar Inn. The family run Lectar inn, which is right in the heart of the medieval old town of Radovljica, comprises a restaurant, live gingerbread museum and accommodation (incidently some of my family have stayed there in the past when visiting me, and were more than satisfied with the accommodation, service and food). The Inn has a tradition dating back over 180 years and a justifiably proud reputation which attracts locals, visitors from across the land and tourists. The waiting staff are dressed in tradition clothing, the food hearty, traditional and locally sourced. and the atmosphere always warm and never stuffy.


In conjunction with the Radovljica Chocolate Festival (http://www.festival-cokolade.si/), which will take place this weekend on Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th April, the restaurants in the Taste Radol’ca project are offering special chocolated-themed menus all this week and weekend so obviously, being the chocoholic that I am, it was with no hesitation that I plumped for that option without so much as the need to look at the menu.


All the restaurants involved are offering 3 courses for just 13 euros. So if you are planning on visiting the Festival this weekend, live in, or near the area, or planning a visit, Lectar Inn should be on your list be it just for a drink, a hearty meal, a visit to the Gingerbread Museum or to stay overnight.


Here’s a look at the chocolate themed menu:
To start – Tarragon struklji with strawberries and chocolate

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Followed by – Žlikrofi with goulash and chocolate pears

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And for dessert – The original house dessert ‘Linhartov cukr’

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You won’t leave hungry, I didn’t! More information about Lectar Inn can be found here – http://www.lectar.com/_en/index.html


Oops, my ‘mini-blog’ isn’t quite as ‘mini’ as I intended, more of a tome really, just too much exciting stuff to write about! Until next time…….

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014