Indulgent Radovljica: Chocolate and Hiking

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

The Radovljica Chocolate Festival is rapidly approaching – just 5 days to go now. The Festival will take place over two days; Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th April, from 9am – 7pm both days. Chocolate has been even more at the forefront of my mind of late having translated the Festival website and programme, meaning I’ve had plenty of time to suss out which events in the programme I will be attending. I will be sure to coincide my visit(s) at the time when the giant 90kg Gorenjka chocolate bar is going to be dished out among visitors as well as for other events in the programme including the Three Chefs’ Cookery Show, where three of Slovenia’s top chefs – Uroš Štefelin, Bine Volčič and Igor Jagodic, will be creating chocolate masterpieces. There will also be workshops and entertainment for children, and for adults, such as ‘Cognac, Cigars and Chocolate’, a Chocolate Fashion Show, chocolate body painting and more. If you are planning to visit, check out the programme to plan which events you wish to attend – http://www.festival-cokolade.si/en/

For those who are Facebook users, be sure to ‘like’ my ‘Adele in Slovenia’ Facebook page (the like button is opposite) to keep updated with hot-off-the-press news about the Chocolate Festival and about other events and news in the Radol’ca area.

Additionally, some of the restaurants involved in the Taste Radol’ca project are offering special chocolate themed menus all this week. So yet another reason/excuse for a little (over)indulgence and at just 13 euros for 3 courses, a bargain too! I’m having a hard time deciding which of them to visit as all the menus sound so appetising, and there are only so many days in a week, but I’m certainly planning on visit at least a couple of them. So all in all it looks like a gluttonous and overindulgent week, and weekend, in store for me! Anyone care to join me?!

In light of the above, its just as well that the weather is conducive to outdoor pursuits and that I am able to make time for some long hikes too, as I did on Sunday. For a change of scenery I set off early from home to Preddvor, approximately 40 minutes from Radovljica, and then started my hike at the small Black Lake (črno jezero). As well as being the starting point for many hikes in the surrounding hills and mountains, the small lake, the Bor Hotel and the 16th century Hill Castle (Grad Hrib), make an idyllic, and romantic, destination for a short stroll and from where to admire the peaceful and scenic surroundings at the foot of the Storžič and Zaplata mountains.

My first destination was St. Jacob’s church (Sv. Jakob). From Preddvor, the route up to the church takes approximately one hour and is a very popular one, especially on a sunny Sunday following a rainy Saturday as was this one. Fortunately as I set off early, most of the people I encountered were on their way up as I was already making my way back down. The majority however only go as far as the church and then stop to enjoy the view and/or some refreshments at one of the two huts – Planinska koča Iskra na Jakobu (961m) and the Planinska Koča pri Franciju (930m). It is a rarity to find two huts so close together so hikers here are spoilt for choice.

Unfortunately it was pretty hazy so the conditions weren’t conducive for getting any great snaps but I’ve included a few anyway, and more can be seen on my Pinterest account. As can be seen, this area offers a wealth of hiking possibilities and tours can be as long or as short as desired. On this occasion I continued from the church directly up to Potoška gora (1283m) then on to the peak of Javorjev vrh (1434m), which offers far-reaching views across the Kamnik Savinja Alps; towards the peaks of Srednji vrh, Kozji vrh and onwards towards the Jezersko valley. To my surprise the route was entirely snow free, although there is still significant snow on the north facing slopes of these peaks.

The fine spring weather also means that work clearing up the damage from February’s ice-storm is progressing well, at least in this area. I encountered a few areas with damage and fallen trees during my hike on Sunday but once above 1000 metres, the damage is minimal. At this time of year the forests are also carpeted in wild garlic, which has a very pungent though not unpleasant smell and you can expect to find dishes featuring wild garlic, such as soup and risotto, featuring widely on seasonal restaurant menus. Here’s hoping the fine weather continues this week so I can get out hiking and biking this week too – in between the indulging that is!

31Mar2014

Fishing – The Sava River, Radovljica

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As I have sat here today gazing out of the window, it’s felt almost like mid-May out there, which is quite unbelievable considering its March, albeit the last day. Sometimes at this time of year, as was the case last year, there can still be a significant amount of snow, even at ground level. However, with the current high temperatures this year’s heavy snowfall made a rapid disappearance, at least here in the valley. Appearances can be deceptive though as there are still several metres of snow in the high mountains where, despite the high temperatures, winter conditions still reign.

The fine weather encouraged me to make my first ever foray into the world of gardening. As someone who doesn’t know one end of a spade from the other, and is unlikely to be able to identify a weed from a prize-bloom, this is something of a revolution for me! However, Slovenes love, and are proud of, their gardens, allotments and vegetable patches so I decided its about time I also embraced this part of Slovene life too. I’m not expecting to turn green-fingered overnight but will certainly give it a stab and see what, if anything, grows!

Having had enough of snowy walks for this year, this weekend I chose cycling as my sport of choice. Radovljica offers a wide choice of cycling routes of varying levels of difficulty; from easier flat routes through the surrounding villages, to routes across lowlands and highlands, through the valleys and into the surrounding hills and mountains. Being so early in the season, I’m not yet quite bike fit enough for a big hill climb so I opted for the Lowland Cycling Route which leads from Radovljica through the peaceful Lipnica Valley, which is ideal for cycling as there is little traffic. More information about this, and other cycling routes in the area, can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/lowland-cycling-trail/

Also this week, whilst running along side the Sava river from the village of Lancovo towards Ribno, I noticed several fishermen as the fishing season is now underway and the Sava River at Radovljica is a fisherman’s paradise, or so I’m told! The fishing season begins annually on the 1^st March and ends of the 31^st October. I therefore decided to do a bit of delving to find out a bit more about fishing in Slovenia, and in particular on the Sava river.

The Sava river is formed of the Sava Dolinka and the Sava Bohinjka which meet at the confluence in the village of Lancovo, just beneath Radovljica. The Radovljica Fishing Club manages the first 23 kilometres of the Sava river ending at the brook before the mouth of Tržiška Bistrica river. At the beginning, there is a 2 kilometre “catch and release” district, where fly fishing with one artificial fly without barb and additional weight is allowed.

Did you know that Slovenia is actually one of the richest countries in Europe in terms of water, with over 27,000kms of watercourses? The emerald green Soča river is one of the best known and a real gem but the Sava river offers just as many opportunities with its deep pools, rapids, tranquility and not to mention the wonderful surrounding views; enough to satisfy many a fisherman’s needs. I can’t profess to be a fisher(wo)man myself, nor have I ever lusted after being so, but should I wish to do so I can think of no finer place to start than right here (almost) on my doorstep! More information about fishing in, and near, Radovljica and fishing permits, can be found here -http://www.ribiskekarte.si/en

Trout, as well as huchen are the most popular catches and you will find fresh river trout on the menus of many a restaurant throughout the country. It often comes just simply grilled, with or without lashings of fresh garlic, or served with almonds.

Oh by the way, just in case you haven’t heard, not that I haven’t mentioned it, its just 13 days to go until the Radovljica Chocolate Festival!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For details of the programme and special accommodation offers, see here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/3rd-festival-of-chocolate/83/309/

24Mar2014

Lambergh Chateau – A right royal feast!

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The weather was the talk of the town this week, but this time for the right reason as temperature records were once again shattered with parts of south-east Slovenia basking in temperatures of 27 degrees, which in March is unusual to say the least. Here in the alpine region of Gorenjska, the temperatures didn’t climb quite that high, as is to be expected when there are still metres of snow in the high mountains, but did reach around the 20 degree mark, which was pure bliss while it lasted. The weekend brought a return of the rain, and with it lower temperatures, but its officially spring now so things are looking up.

My week flew by in a whirl as I was quite busy with translating work, meaning several early starts and late finishes, which left less time than I would have liked to make the most of the clement weather. I did however (of course) manage to squeeze in a few short bike rides and am looking forward to many more in the months to come and will of course be blogging about them, and my hikes too.

The week, the first of three Chateau Dinners (Grajska vecerja) took place at Lambergh Chateau in the village of Dvorska vas, near Begunje na Gorenjskem, just a few kilometres from Radovljica.

The history of the Chateau, part of the Lambergh Chateau and Hotel, dates back as far as the 11^th century and was at one time, in the 16^th century, owned by Count Lamberg, hence the name. It was completely renovated in 1531 in the Renaissance style and the latest renovation, in 2011, ensured its original appearance was preserved, along with the modern touches required to bring it into the 21^st century.

It has to be said that the Lambergh Estate didn’t have the most auspicious of starts when it opened a few years back and has since endured a period of closure and several changes of ownership. In the past there was some scepticism about its future but its great to be able to report that the new owners seem to have finally found the right formula and the right team, and for the past year the hotel has been flourishing, often running at full occupancy. It is also a very popular wedding venue and has become an important part of the community. More information about the Estate, and the next Chateau Dinners, on 25^th April and 16^th May, can be found here – http://www.hotel-lambergh.com

The Chateau Dinners are open to both hotel residents and non-residents and take place monthly. The menus are seasonally adjusted and comprise 4 courses, with matching (and plentiful!) wine. On this occasion the wine was provided by the Sartori Estate from the Primorska region of Slovenia, near the town and port of Koper, and diners were also kept amused by the running ‘will they/won’t they’ entertainment provided by Urška and the noble Tonček, as seen below. As well as accommodation and the restaurant, the chateau also houses an intimate wedding chamber, which, together with the small restaurant, makes the ideal venue for smaller group celebrations.

Oh, and of course I must mention the delicious food which didn’t disappoint. Lambergh is also one of the 7 restaurants that participate in the Taste Radol’ca project ( http://wp.me/p3005k-8s) and will also be appearing at the forthcoming Chocolate Festival in Radovljica. Talking of which, as probably the world’s biggest chocoholic, I’m on countdown to the Festival already – just 20 days to go!!! More information about this year’s Chocolate Festival in Radovljica can be found here – http://www.festival-cokolade.si/

Woops, back to the aforementioned food, I got sidetracked by chocolate again……. To started we were served a courgette carpaccio with tomatoes and fresh goats cheese. Next came a gratinated scallop with saffron risotto. And for the main courses deer medallions wrapped with pancetta, potato blinis – which were seriously melt in the mouth and I could have eaten a whole plate of them alone – and a sprout wrap filled with mushrooms and gorgonzola.

And for dessert, an almond parfe with chocolate truffle and berries – need I say more! The food was delicious, a treat for the eyes and the palate and I’m looking forward to the next one already!

17Mar2014

Romantic Radovljica!

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On Tuesday, the eve of St. Gregory’s Day, I went to the small former iron-forging village of Kamna Gorica, in the Lipnica Valley, to watch the annual tradition of floating local children’s handmade creations, illuminated by candles, in the village stream. It is such a colourful and simple custom, but one which brings great joy to young children who watch on proudly as their creations float by and are judged for their creativeness. Meanwhile the adults get to stand back and watch, also proudly, enjoy a warming mulled wine and saviour the atmosphere. As can be seen in the photos below (more to follow on Pinterest), some of the creations were clearly painstakingly and meticulously thought out and constructed, others just simple paper creations, but of course its the taking part that counts! The custom dates back to the era of manual iron-forging, before the introduction of the Gregorian calendar in 1582, when the name day of St. Gregory was considered the first day of spring.

And since there has barely been a cloud in the sky all week, it certainly feels like spring. We could hardly ask for more perfect weather for this time of year. It‘s certainly much appreciated after the bleakness of February. Earlier today, whilst walking around, it occurred to me how even the narrowest of streets now appear to be so wide, and what a luxury it seems to have the entire width of the pavement to walk on, these having been piled up high with snow for weeks on end before. How one learns to appreciate the simple things in life!

It also occurred to me recently, whilst walking through Radovljica’s old town centre, what a shame it is that more people don’t appreciate what a great destination is to hold a wedding. During the summer there are a number of weddings which take place here but, having made enquiries, I discovered that 80% of weddings in Slovenia take place in Bled. Ok I’m biased, but the fact is that everything is right here in one place; St. Peter’s Church for the religious ceremony or Šivec House for a civil ceremony, the grand Radovljica Mansion and/or Lectar Inn for the reception, the perfect spot for photographs with the backdrop of the Julian Alps and the Jelovica Plateau and accommodation both in the old town centre and nearby. Having made some enquiries, it seems that although weddings in Slovenia are increasing in popularity, the vast majority of people still opt for Bled, as it is the obvious choice due to the castle and the island on the lake. However, Radovljica is just 7kms from Bled so a wedding in Radovljica offers an alternative and could also be combined with a visit to Bled. So, if you are lucky enough to be considering a wedding abroad, take a look at Radovljica and dare to be different! Here are a couple of photographs of the venues (more to follow on Pinterest) and more information can also be found here – http://www.dapetra.com/

With the temperatures currently in the mid-teens the snow line is currently at around the 1,000 metre mark, somewhat higher on the south facing slopes. However, above this level there is still plenty of the white stuff as can be seen from the HUGE snowman that greeted my arrival on a hike up to the Roblek Mountain Hut (1672m) from the Draga Valley. It’s been warm enough to cycle too, which is unusual in March, so my bike has had an early awakening from its winter hibernation!

10Mar2014

A weekend of winter sports in Gorenjska, Slovenia

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It was a big weekend of winter sporting events in the Gorenjska region of Slovenia. On Pokljuka the World Biathlon Cup took place whilst in Kranjska Gora it was the Vitranc Skiing World Cup competition. Whilst this was great for the many spectators and armchair fans of winter sports, it left me with something of a quandry about where to go in order to avoid crowds and traffic congestion. And with the weather forecast to be glorious all weekend, which it was, I had to come up with something!

Fortunately Radovljica‘s favourable location, flanked by the Karavanke range, the Julian Alps and the Jelovica plateau, means one doesn’t have to go far to have a wealth of options. However, at the moment there is still several metres of snow in the high mountains, whilst at lower altitudes there is the problem of the vast amount of fallen trees resulting from February’s ice-storm. So one has to carefully select where to go bearing all these factors in mind. In the end, I settled on Dovška Baba, part of the Karavanke range, reached from the village of Dovje. I make the hike to the peak of Dovška Baba (1891m) at least a few times a year, usually during the summer and autumn, but it is also popular during the winter, albeit in the current conditions, it is perhaps more suited to ski touring than hiking. From the top there are stunning views in all directions; on the Slovene side across towards the village of Mojstrana, Triglav and the Julian Alps, and into Austria on the other side.

There is a small hut, which isn’t open during the winter, located on the Dovška Rožca highland (1650m) and due to the amount of snow and the hike taking way longer than it would usually do, I only went as far as the hut on this occasion. I walked up on the road, but having later noticed that the path was somewhat trodden, I pondered whether or not to return on the road or the path. In the end I plumped for the path, which leads fairly steeply down through the forest, thus making for a much quicker return trip but also a VERY wet one since by then the snow was incredibly wet as it was so warm and I returned to my car with feet wetter than had I been for a swim!

Everywhere you go at the moment, you can hear the constant and distinctive din of chainsaws, as foresters, and forest owners, go about clearing up the devastation from the ice storm. One the one hand I find the noise comforting, to know that some of the impassable areas may soon once again become passable. However, on the other hand it evokes a degree of sadness at the sheer amount of trees that have been lost. In what could perhaps be considered something of a silver lining, I read this week that hundreds of the unemployed are to be offered the chance to train as foresters in order to help the clear-up operation, which will last several years.

And in another stark reminder, a friend and I had something of an unexpected adventure during our lovely sunny Sunday afternoon stroll, from Radovljica down to the Fux suspension bridge over the Sava river, where we were pleasantly surprised to find the path free of debris. Had we returned the same way it would have been fine, but choosing to take a different path proved to be a mistake and involved us clambering steeply up an embankment due to the sheer number of fallen trees entirely blocking the way ahead. But we survived to tell the tale!

This coming week, on Tuesday 11^th March, on the eve of St. Gregory’s Day, it will be once again time for the local age-old iron-forging custom of floating handmade creations, illuminated by candles, in the streams and villages of the iron-forging villages of Kropa and Kamna Gorica. The events, which begin at 5pm in Kropa and 6pm in Kamna Gorica, involve the floating of the models, which are a mixture of unique art creations made from paper, cardboard and wood with candles affixed either on the exterior or interior, creating a colourful effect against the dusk setting, together with an accompanying programme. This custom dates back to the era of manual iron-forging, before the introduction of the Gregorian calendar in 1582, when the name day of St. Gregory was considered the first day of spring. Unlike last year, this year the spring gods appear to be listening as the week ahead looks set to be bathed in sunshine and pleasant spring temperatures.

Also coming up soon it will once again be ‘Restaurant Week‘ (Teden restavracij – website only in Slovene –http://tedenrestavracij.si/ ) throughout Slovenia. During the period from 22^nd – 30^th March, many of the finest restaurants throughout the country will offer specially prepared menus, of at least three courses, for the set price of just 14 euros per person, which means a great opportunity to try out some new and different restaurants. In the Radovljica area, both Vila Podvin and Gostilna Kunstelj are participating. But hurry, bookings must be made in advance and many restaurants are already fully booked. I’ve made my reservation already!

If you are Facebook user, don’t forget to like the new ‘Adele in Slovenia‘ page, where, in between my weekly blog posts, you will be able to find up-to-date news and information about things happening in Radovljica and the surrounding areas.

3Mar2014

Carnival Time in Radovljica

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The inaugural Shrovetide Carnival (Pust) Dance took place on Saturday in Radovljica and I was fortunate to be invited. The theme of the dance was ‘Sanitising Slovene Banks’ – bringing a lighthearted note to the otherwise serious problem of the financial crisis and trying to restore the hole in the Slovene banking sector. Since fancy dress was obligatory, and in keeping with the financial theme, I decided to go as Mickey Mouse’s new friend ‘Money Mouse‘!

Guests were greeted in the lobby of the Radovljica Mansion, photographed on the red carpet and given the 10,000 euro banknote, which was specially printed for the event. After an aperitif, ‘Money Mouse’ together with the various nuns, cats, nurses, policemen, lynx (in a nod to the one which is still on the run from Ljubljana Zoo following the destruction caused by the recent ice storm) and others, made their way up to the Baroque Hall where the evening’s entertainment began.

It was impressive to see the efforts everyone had gone to with their costumes and a fun evening was had by all. There was live music, provided by the band Medik and delicious food, provided by the 7 restaurants involved in the Taste Rado’ca project (see http://wp.me/p3005k-8s) ably assisted by students from the Radovljica School of Hospitality and Tourism. Such was the deliciousness of the food, ‘Money Mouse’ rather overindulged but still managed a shuffle and a wiggle of the tail on the dance floor! Let’s hope this event becomes another staple on the Radol’ca Events Calendar.

Earlier in the day the annual Shrovetide Carnival Parade (Pustni sprevod) travelled through Radovljica and even the rain showers didn’t dampen the spirits. The parade was awash with colour as the floats and accompanying costumed participants, with a special tribute to the successful Slovene winter Olympians, proceeded through the town ending in Linhart Square in the old town centre.

As of this week ‘Adele in Slovenia‘ now has its own Facebook page too. Having avoided it thus far, I finally succumbed, or rather was persuaded, in order that I am able to post news and information in between my weekly blogs. You can find a ‘Like’ box towards the bottom right-hand corner of this page, so be sure to ‘Like’ it, if you want access to more news and regular updates. More pictures from this week’s carnival events can also be found on Pinterest.

Earlier in the week the Slovenian Forestry Institute issued the first official estimates of the damage caused by the recent ice storm and it made sombre reading. Up to 660 hectares of forest will require clearing and 7 million cubic metres of wood will have to be cut, twice as much as initially thought. Some 2 million seedlings will be required for replanting and there is now a drive to hire foresters, several hundred are needed. When driving and walking around, there is visible evidence of the destruction but I was particularly shocked and saddened this week, when I went for a walk around Lake Bled, for the first time since the storm, as the path had been closed since. A part of the path was still closed to allow foresters to clear the most affected area, under Bled Castle, which now appears almost barren. Elsewhere entire trees lie in the lake but the great clean-up is already underway and in general the damage is somewhat localised with paths at lower altitudes, where deciduous trees are dominant, being particularly affected.

I have slowly been discovering where is and isn’t safe to walk as many of the paths still remain closed and impassable. There were a couple of days of glorious winter sunshine during the past week and I managed hikes to both the Roblek Mountain Hut (1672m) and the Hut on Dobrča (1478m). It is interesting to note that Roblek, part of the imposing Begunščica mountain, is part of the Karavanke range, the mountains that form the border between Slovenia and Austria in this part of the country, whilst neighbouring Dobrča is actually part of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. The former was without problem whilst the latter, beginning from Slatna, involved a little negotiating of fallen trees to begin with, but was ok once some height had been gained.

24Feb2014

Snow Castles and Successful Slovenia

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With a total of 8 medals, the success of the Slovenian team at the Sochi Winter Olympics was quite phenomenal; even more so when you consider the population of just 2 million people. I read some interesting statistics; in comparison, the USA, with 316 million people, would have needed to have won 1,106 medals to have equalled Slovenia’s success! Furthermore, there are only 148 registered ice-hockey players in Slovenia but the team made it through to the quarter finals, ranking them among the best 8 hockey teams in the world. Something for all Slovenes to be proud of and the rapturous receptions the competitors have been receiving on their homecoming, certain bears testament to that.

The snow in Radovljica was put to good use last week when, for the second year in succession, a snow castle was built in the old town centre. Locals were invited to come along and help build the castle so it really was a ‘team-town’ effort. Just take a look at these photos, more of which of these and others can be seen on my Pinterest page (http://www.pinterest.com/adeleinslovenia/), to see the results of the work, which was especially impressive when illuminated at night, thanks to the teams at ‘Playful Architecture’ and the ‘Centre for Architecture Slovenia’.

Sunday, the last day of the winter school holidays, at least for those in the west of Slovenia, finally saw the brilliant sunshine that had been lacking all week and it seemed like half the land, if not more, took to the roads, ski pistes, hills and mountains to partake in winter sporting activities. The ski centres were doing a roaring trade and the roads to/from the main resorts, such as Bled, Pokljuka, Bohinj and Kranjska Gora, were thronging as if it were the height of the summer season.

I made the most of the day with a double-whammy of outdoor activities. My day started with an early morning walk to Valvasor (which I wrote about in last week’s blog) then, after some sustenance and a short rest, an afternoon walk to Štefanja Gora, home to the Church of St. Štefan. This hill (748m), is in an idyliic location above Cerklje na Gorenjskem and beneath the Krvavec ski resort. Although not high, there are wonderful and expansive views, to the south across the valley and to the north towards the Karavanke mountains. Just a few minutes beneath the church is the small tourist farm, Pr’Mežnarju, which offers refreshments and the winter sun meant it was even warm enough to sit outside with a nice cuppa!

There are still a huge number of forest and mountain paths closed and inaccessible, due to the fallen trees, and the risk of avalanches still remains high, so it is therefore best to check the conditions before setting off. There is an up-to-date list of the paths closed on the Slovene Mountain Association website (some of the site is in English however this part isn’t), though it is not exhaustive since it lists only the main paths which are known to be closed and have been reported by the relevant section of the Mountain Association – http://www.pzs.si/

Preparations for this year’s traditional Shrovetide carnival ‘pust‘ continue with people busy planning, sewing and creating their fancy dress costumes. The street parade will take place on Saturday 1^st March when Radovljica will be awash with a procession of witches, clowns, animals of every description and a riot of other original costumes. If you want to see it be sure to arrive early, as the surrounding streets are closed to traffic just before, and during, the parade, which will start at 2pm and travel through the centre of Radovljica ending in the old town centre at Linhart Square.

And just a reminder about the new Pust Dance that will also be taking place on the same day in the Radovljica Mansion. This unique event is aimed at reviving the tradition of ‘pust‘ whilst combining it with characteristic cuisine and adding a dash of humour to the times in which we live. For those attending the dance, masks, or costumes, are obligatory and prizes will be awarded for the best ones. A meal will also be served, provided and cooked by the local restaurants involved in the Taste Radol’ca project. The entire evening’s entertainment, including a welcome drink, dinner, dance and guaranteed fun, will cost just 15 euros per person. More information and details about reservations can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/

Hope to see you there, though you might not recognise me!!!

15Feb2014

Seven Years in Slovenia!

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I celebrated my 7th anniversary in Slovenia this week – gosh, how time flies! I spent a pleasant evening with friends who ensured I didn’t spend it alone and who pronounced themselves, resplendent with badges, the official founders of the Adele in Slovenia Fun Club! I’m not yet entirely sure what being a member of this club entails, but watch this space!!!

After what seemed like an eternity, although in reality it was only around three weeks, the sun finally made a very welcome reappearance during the latter part of this week. Alas, it was somewhat brief, but it was much needed and almost at once it felt like the whole country, or at least this little alpine part of it, suddenly breathed a collective sigh of relief after the harsh bout of weather that Slovenia has had to endure during the past few weeks. There is, of course, still a huge clean-up operation taking place and, as is so often the case, once the media have left, little of the remaining work in clearing up after such a disaster, gets any coverage. Current predictions are that it will take at least a year for areas of forest that have been entirely, or at least extensively, devastated to be cleared.

I took full advantage of the few hours of brilliant early morning sunshine on Thursday and made a much longed for trip to Valvasor. Since the heavy snowfall and ice, which caused so much destruction, hiking had become pretty much a no-no, as most paths were inaccessible due to fallen trees. However, having asked around, I heard that the path to the Valvasor mountain hut (Valvasorjev dom), one of my regular winter haunts, was in good condition so I wasted no time in going. I certainly wasn’t alone and was surprised how many other people I met; skiiers, sledgers, hikers – no doubt all of whom had been (im)patiently yearning for some sunshine, much as I had. Incidentally, I noticed there is also now a new winter sports area, including a small cross-country skiing area, a children’s ski area, a sledging track and an ice-rink, located just 300metres from the Završnica reservoir.

It occurred to me whilst listening to the news this week, which was once again dominated by bickering politians and the latest corruption scandals, that perhaps the only upside to all the recent weather related news was that the nation has had a brief respite from all the usual news – the same the world over no doubt! However, this week Slovenia has really had something to celebrate with our winter sports stars performing exceptionally well in Sochi. For the first time in the history of women’s downhill skiing, two gold medals were awarded as Slovenia’s Tina Maze and Switzerland’s Dominique Gisin recorded identical times and were named co-Olympic champions. Other Slovene medallists (so far) are Peter Prevc, silver in the men’s ski jumps, Vesna Fabjan, bronze in cross country skiing and Teja Gregorin, bronze in biathlon.

Here in Radovljica, preparations for this year’s traditional Shrovetide carnival, known here as ‘pust’ are in full swing. The street parade will take place on Saturday 1^st March and is a spectacle of colours as the streets through the town are filled with a procession of floats accompanied by children (big and small!) dressed in handmade costumes and masks. The parade will start at 2pm and travel through the centre of Radovljica ending in the old town centre at Linhart Square.

Additionally, this year a new event will be taking place in the Radovljica Mansion – the Pust Dance. This unique event is aimed at reviving the tradition of pust whilst combining it with characteristic cuisine and adding a dash of humour to the times in which we live. For those attending the dance, masks will be obligatory and prizes will be awarded for the best ones. A meal will also be served, provided and cooked by the local restaurants involved in the Taste Radol’ca project. The entire evening’s entertainment, including a welcome drink, dinner, dance and guaranteed fun, will cost just 15 euros per person. More information and details about reservations can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/

I popped to the capital, Ljubljana, on Friday for a meeting and got ridiculously excited about seeing green grass! I’m not much of a city person usually but after seeing nothing but whiteness for some time now, the sights and sounds of the city were something to behold. Friday was of course Valentines Day too, so love was in the air – apparently! But then there’s always love in Slovenia since it’s the only country with ‘love’ in its name – sLOVEnia!

It’s school holidays for a week now and therefore the ski resorts throughout Slovenia, all of which are operating and have copious snow, will be in full swing. Meanwhile in Radovljica, the Olympic size swimming pool is offering free swimming for children all week from 9am – 11am; perfect for keeping the little ones occupied and out of mischief!

13Jan2014

Fascinating Ajdna!

Posted in Hiking, Julian Alps, Karavanke, Radovljica by adeleinslovenia

No, the title of this week’s blog isn’t a reference to the British cabaret act of (almost) the same name (Fascinating Aida), but in fact a reference to the fascinating archeological site of Ajdna.

Ajdna is a peak, located at an altitude of 1064m, high above the village of Potoki. It is part of the Karavanke range, on the slopes of Stol which is the highest mountain in the Karavanke. On a clear day, as it was when I went this week, the views along the Upper Sava Valley, as well as across the Julian Alps, are magnificent and far reaching.

As well as being an interesting place to walk and to admire the views, there was another reason for my visit since last year, for my birthday, two friends gave me a necklace with a bird (as seen below), the symbol of Ajdna. Following that, we all planned to go together for a walk there but for a variety of reasons i.e. too hot, raining, busy etc. our trip never quite came to fruition. So this week, with the perfect (spring) winter weather we have been having, I decided that now was the time to go. Who would have thought that it would be possible in mid-January!

Today the site has been designated an archeological monument of great importance and has a protected status. The settlement that stands here is thought to be from the late Antiquity, though evidence, some of it dating back as far as the collapse of the Roman Empire (476 AD), shows that it may have been inhabited far earlier. The peak provided locals with an excellent refuge from the troubles taking place down below in the valley, not to mention with excellent views too! Ajdna is also thought to be the highest lying settlement of its kind in Slovenia.

Excavations didn’t begin here until 1976 and since then remains of weapons, jewellery and other household objects, as well as many graves, have been found, some of which are now on display in the Gorenjska Museum in Kranj. It is thought the site was home to around 100 people. Today many well-preserved buildings still remain and there are photographs and posters documenting the finds.

There are several ways to reach Ajdna, depending on which direction you are coming from and also depending on how far you want to walk. There is a path which leads directly up from Potoki or from Završnica, in the direction of the Valvasor mountain hut.

Since it was a lovely day and I fortunately had time on my side, I started from Žirovnica and made a long walk of it. First, I climbed the stairs adjacent to the water tower, through the tunnel and continued on the path to reach the Završnica reservoir. From here I followed the marked path as if going to Valvasor dom, turning left on the mountain road approximately 15 minutes beneath Valvasor dom. From here its along the road for approximately 15-20 minutes until the junction with the turn off marked for Ajdna. The path at first goes downhill, through the forest, until reaching the base of the peak. From here there is a choice of the harder, climbing path (15 mins) or the easier path (20 mins). I chose the harder path up and the easier path down. The path up, though not technically difficult, does require sturdy footwear, a steady hand, concentration and no fear of heights as it leads directly up the rock face – but it is well-equipped with steel cable and foot and hand holds. For those not so keen on such ascents, or those with small children, take the slightly longer path to the right, which though easier, also requires a degree of concentration as the area is quite exposed and prone to rockfall. Whichever way you reach it, you will be richly rewarded for your efforts! I will gradually be adding more photos of this, and some of my other trips, on my Pinterest profile too, just click here – http://www.pinterest.com/adeleinslovenia/

So, as you can see from the photos, there is still no snow here in the valley. For the first part of this week, some rain is forecast, with snow at around the 1,000 metre level. For anyone booked to ski at Kranjska Gora, I’m afraid to report that it is pretty green there. However, I’ve heard that some of the hotels are arranging shuttles to alternative ski resorts either within Slovenia or to nearby Austria or Italy so all is not lost. At Vogel and Krvavec however, there is plenty of snow and they are having a great season and with Slovenia being such a small country, its quite easy to get from resort to resort, without long distances involved.

If you are visiting the area, whether to ski or not, there are of course plenty of other things to see and do to. Take a look back through some of my previous posts for some ideas. I’ve covered a pretty wide spectrum about Radovljica, where I live, but also about many other areas around the region and even further afield.

This week there will be a FREE guided tour of the medieval old town of Radovljica on Tuesday 14^th January at 10am. There is also an outdoor ice rink in Radovljica, open weekdays from 3-6pm, weekends from 10-6pm. Entrance is free for children up to the age of 18 (with their own skates) and just 2 euros for adults. On Thursday 16^th there will be a public production by the Avsenik Music School in Begunje beginning at 6.30pm at the Avsenik Museum – entrance is free.

30Dec2013

My year in Slovenia

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

With 2013 drawing to a rapid close, I find myself reflecting on the past year, my sixth full year in Slovenia and its many highlights. There were of course the inevitable few low points too but best not to dwell on those.

It’s now exactly a year since I started writing my blog and astonishingly yesterday it achieved it’s 10,000^th reader – yes, 10,000 – that isn’t a typo! It’s unbelievable that in such a short time, my humble blog has become so popular and is being read by people across the globe from Israel to India, Kuwait, Thailand, Bangladesh, Venezuela, Senegal, Iraq…….. I could go on but suffice to say I’m astonished, delighted and proud.

I have sometimes found it a difficult balancing act to write a blog that can be all things to all its (potential) readers:

a means for friends and family to keep up-to-date with my news
providing information for those interested in visiting Slovenia, particularly those keen on hiking and other outdoor activities
providing relevant and up-to-date information about my home town of Radovljica and helping it to achieve the recognition it so merits
providing a platform to showcase the best of what is on offer in and around Radovljica
providing information about events, restaurants, accommodation, concerts etc. in the vicinity
and last but not least, a way of me recording and communicating the myriad thoughts, ideas and experiences buzzing around in my head.

Since starting this blog I have been invited to openings, events and launches, been interviewed on the radio and in the local newspaper and met some great people, both locally and from abroad. I have received emails of thanks and support from across the globe and have helped numerous people with help and advice about planning their holidays in Slovenia, hiking routes, luggage storage, reservations, guides and recommendations. It’s always lovely to put faces to names so getting to meet some of those I’ve helped has been a bonus too, among them Dorothy and Larry from Idaho, Ami, Carmi and Joni from Israel, Mike from Boston and Christie and Irene from California, some of whom now remain friends. I was initially worried if I would find enough to write about, but those thoughts were way-off the mark and in fact sometimes I have to curtail my writing in order to ensure each week’s blog remains succinct.

So, what have been the highlights of my year? Well, as probably the world’s biggest chocoholic one of the highlights would have to be the Radovljica Chocolate Festival, which took place in April. This event looks set to grow ever more popular and will now be a regular fixture on the event calendar. Read more about it here – http://wp.me/p3005k-2c

Another highlight was the launch of the Taste Radol’ca project. It was a super evening spent in good company and with a real feeling of community. Read more about it here – http://wp.me/p3005k-8s

And of course how can I possibly choose a favourite among all the amazing hikes and views I’ve encountered during the year. Here are but a few;

the first snowy walk of winter in December 2013 on Pokljuka, to Mrežce was a memorable one with perfect blue skies, sunshine and just the right amount of snow – http://wp.me/p3005k-9n
A summer walk in the Bohinj highlands and the Tourist Cheese Route – http://wp.me/p3005k-4S
Snowshoeing in the Vrata Valley in January 2013 – http://wp.me/s3005k-50
Visiting, walking and meeting a local legend in Jezersko – http://wp.me/s3005k-50

I certainly hope I have achieved at least some, if not all, of the aims I set out to achieve through writing my blog in 2013 and will continue to do so in 2014. I will continue to try to respond as quickly as possible to visitor enquiries. A good example is a recent email I received late on a Friday evening from an Argentinian, who, at that time was in Italy and considering a trip to Slovenia. After a couple of emails back and forth he arrived in Radovljica the very next day!

As always, I am also open to ideas from the local community, a (free) opportunity to present what you offer to potential visitors from across the globe, to inform readers, from both home and abroad, about upcoming events and more. Almost 50% over the readers of my blog come from Slovenia with the remainder coming from across the globe so it provides a perfect opportunity to reach a nearer and wider audience.

So, do get in touch in 2014. I look forward to hearing from you and meeting more new people. I approach the new year with a pinch of trepidation but mostly with optimism and energy.

I WISH YOU ALL A VERY HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR!

Adele in Slovenia

My life and adventures in Radovljica and throughout Slovenia

Tag Archives: radovljica

Indulgent Radovljica: Chocolate and Hiking

Fishing – The Sava River, Radovljica

Lambergh Chateau – A right royal feast!

Romantic Radovljica!

A weekend of winter sports in Gorenjska, Slovenia

Carnival Time in Radovljica

Snow Castles and Successful Slovenia

Seven Years in Slovenia!

Fascinating Ajdna!

My year in Slovenia