Easter Traditions in Slovenia

With Easter just a few days away, I thought I’d write a blog on Easter traditions in Slovenia, covering everything from religious and secular celebrations to, of course, food and other traditions.

Easter is celebrated here in a number of ways. It begins on Palm Sunday when people can be seen flocking to churches around the country carrying bundles of branches and leaves, called butare, which are then blessed as part of a custom thought to date back as far as the 9th century.

Easter ‘butare’ bundles in front of the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians in Brezje. Photo: Visit Radol’ca

Žegnane – the blessing of food on Easter Saturday – takes places around the country in front of or in churches or, as seen below in Lancovo, near Radovljica, at shrines in smaller settlements. People take baskets of food, covered with embroidered cloths, to be blessed. However, this food cannot be eaten until Easter Sunday. Then, after a period of abstinence (by some), with a fast beginning on Ash Wednesday, food becomes a big deal as tables in homes around the country can be found bursting under the weight of potica, which is the star of the show, as well as baked ham, horseradish, eggs and more.

Potica is a traditional Slovenian sweet baked at Christmas and Easter holidays, and is arguably the most famous Slovenian dish. It could be said that no Slovenian holiday is truly complete without a slice of traditional potica. Apparently, there are over 80 different types of potica in Slovenia, yet in most shops and bakeries there are only the usual staple varieties, such as; walnut – by far the most commonly found – as well as poppy seed, tarragon, coconut, and potratna –  a layered ‘luxury’ potica, made with curd cheese, walnuts and layers of light and dark sponge.

Gluten-free potica is also now widely available, such as seen below, so no need for us coeliacs to miss out.

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Gluten-free walnut potica and coconut potica – Sladki butik Ines

Pirhi, another staple on tables at Easter, are coloured eggs, traditionally dyed using onion skins. Spring flowers or leaves are attached to the eggs during the dying process to produce the characteristic pattern.

The game of ‘fucanje‘ traditionally takes place at Easter. Players compete in a coin throwing contest, each aiming for their coin to land closest to the target. The winners then ‘takes all’!

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On Easter Sunday in the municipality of Radovljica ‘fucanje‘ takes place outside the cultural centre in the villages of Mošnje and also in Begunje na Gorenjskem behind the Pr’ Tavčar restaurant.

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Rolling eggs, or Easter egg hunts, are other traditional Easter games.

Lov na pirhe na Blejskem gradu - THE Slovenia

On Easter Sunday, a typical Easter feast in Slovenia usually looks something like this…

I can’t finish this blog without mentioning the retirement of Slovenia’s best ever ski jumper, Peter Prevec, who officially made his last competitive jumps at Planica last weekend.

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Peter’s records speak for themself, among them:

  • 203 FIS WC appearances
  • 51 FIS WC appearances
  • FIS WC victories
  • 15 wins in one season
  • Winner of the Crystal Globe 2015/2016
  • Winner of the Ski Flying Crystal Globe in 2013/14, 2014/15 and 2015/16
  • Silver and Bronze medal winner at the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014
  • Silver and bronze medalist at the Nordic World Ski Championships

Originally from the Poljane Valley, Peter now lives with his wife and two children in Radovljica. To show our gratitude and appreciation to him, the town is putting on a celebrate his exceptional sports career this Tuesday (i.e. tomorrow) at 5pm, to which everyone is invited, featuring live music with Saša Avsenik and the Lesce Wind Orchestra.

And finally, it’s less than a month until the Radovljica Chocolate Festival. This year’s festival will take place on Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st April and, as ever, will feature a chocolate-packed and entertainment-packed programme, so plan your visit now! Should you need any help planning your visit, contact the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre.

© Adele in Slovenia

Slovenian Culture – Radol’ca-style!

Slovenia takes its culture seriously, and this is most visible every year on 8th February when the country celebrates Prešeren Day – a national cultural holiday – dedicated to its most treasured poet, France Prešeren.

Various events take place throughout the country, the largest of which are in Kranj and Vrba. The former is nowadays known as Prešeren’s Town, while the latter was his birthplace.

In Vrba, which is in close proximity to Radovljica, every year on 8th February people flock from around the country to take part in a 10-kilometre walk along the Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Trail. The trail begins at Prešeren’s birth house

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…then continues via fields and country paths to the birth houses of Žirovnica’s other famous men as well as Anton Janša’s apiary.

The Prešernov smenj fair in Kranj also attracts huge crowds. The event is dedicated to all-things from Prešeren’s time; music, dance, clothing, food …

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Throughout the country all museums offer free admission on 8th February to enable everyone to be part of Prešeren Day.

The Radol’ca area has more than its fair share of museums; 12 to be precise (excluding galleries):

Museum of Apiculture, Radovljica

Municipal Museum, Radovljica

Pharmacy and Alchemy Museum, Radovljica

Lectar Workshop and Museum, Radovljica

Iron Forging Museum, Kropa

Fovsaritnica Museum House, Kropa

Sextons’ Museum House, Kamna Gorica

Museum of Hostages, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Elan Alpine Ski Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Avsenik Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Ethnological Museum, Mošnje

Nativity Museum, Brezje

While deciding what to do this year on 8th February, I realised that I had been to all the above museums, except one – the Municipal Museum. So, it was time to tick that one off the list too!

The museum is dedicated to Radovljica’s most well known (former) resident – Anton Tomaž Linhart: The 18th century was a time of great change in Europe. One of the central characters in the then Carniola was Anton Tomaž Linhart from Radovljica, the father of Slovenian theatre and scientific historiography.

The museum is located on the first floor of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

If I’m honest, it had probably never occurred to me to visit the museum as I thought that since it’s all dedicated to one person, there is only so much you can hear and see about that person. But, I stand corrected! Though the content is indeed dedicated to Anton Tomaž Linhart, it is also an opportunity to find out about life, clothing and customs in the eighteenth century.

And to have a bit of fun dressing up too!

Upon prior arrangement, guided tours are available in Slovene, German and English.

Our national day of culture may be over for this year, but there are hundreds of (other) museums throughout Slovenia to explore throughout the year.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Klanc Castle – The Ruins of A Secret Gutenberg Stronghold

“Klanc Castle? What? Where? Never heard of it!”

That’s pretty much the response you will get from most Slovenes if you say you are going to visit Klanc Castle, which is also known as Glanz Castle and Novi Gutenberg. In fact, I’d put money on it that the majority, if not all, of those reading this blog – whether in Slovenia or elsewhere – won’t have heard of it.

So, let me enlighten you! Actually, it’s pretty much down to one man that I came to hear of it, and it’s thanks to him that the ruins of this hidden castle have been (re)discovered.

For the past few years, the Municipality of Radovljica has offered local inhabitants an opportunity to put forward suggestions for new projects, the so-called ‘Participative Budget’. Inhabitants can then vote for the project they would like to see become a reality, and the projects that get the most votes in each area of the municipality then receive funding so they can go ahead, albeit these things don’t happen overnight.

One such suggestion came from Sašo Gasperin, formerly director of the Šobec Camp, who now works at the Radovljica Tourist Board. In addition, he is a member of the local tourist association in Begunje na Gorenjskem and a tourist guide, who is fluent in both English and German. Thanks to his excellent knowledge of the Begunje area, Sašo’s suggestion was that the area containing the ruins of Klanc Castle is made accessible and equipped with information boards, so visitors can find out about the history of this hidden castle. Fortunately, his suggestion was adopted and the municipality subsequently bought the land on which the castle ruins are situated. The project was taken on by the architect Maj Juvanec, and Sašo helped helped with sources/resources, advice and, believe it or not, a chain saw!

So, who better than to guide us on a walk to see the castle ruins than the man himself – thanks Sašo!

The best place to start the walk is at the Begunje Tourist Information Centre in the centre of the village, which is where you will find the first yellow sign showing the way to the castle (grad Klanec).

TIC Begunje

From here continue on the pavement and past the church, where you turn right, then head in a diagonal direction towards Mt. Dobrča. You reach the village shrine, dedicated to four patrons to mark the four parish churches.

Continue in the direction of the foothills of Mt. Dobrća, with magnificent views towards the Draga valley, until you reach the road that runs from Begunje na Gorenjskem towards Tržič. Cross the road then take the marked path, as shown below.

I’ve taken this path many, many times, hence I was astonished to discover that the caste ruins are just metres away and I never even knew! People certainly knew how to strategically place castles, fortresses, etc. in bygone days.

It really is best to arrange a guided tour by contacting the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre, as you, like me, might find the ruins hard to spot, and also because that way you will certainly get the most out of the visit. However, there are now signs, so if you are up for the challenge and keep your eyes peeled, you might just find them!

The castle dates from the 14th century and was abandoned in the 17th century. The name Gutenberg comes from the German name for Mt. Dobrča (good mountain) – German: guten berg, Slovenian: dobra gora.

The castle complex originally consisted of a rectangular, unfortified tower court with a few farm buildings. After two major construction phases, it expanded into a complex, the ruins of which have been partially preserved to this day.

It also makes a lovely place to sit and contemplate the world, and, on a fine day, enjoy the view(s)!

I won’t reveal everything, since you can discover it for yourself, hence above there is just enough to whet your appetite! For more information about Klanc Castle, nearby Kamen Castle and all the other sights and attractions in the area, visit https://www.radolca.si/en.

© Adele in Slovenia

The Festive Season is Here in Radovljica!

It’s hard to believe it’s December already. Is anyone else wondering where 2022 has gone? It seems to have whizzed by and the festive season is now upon us. At least this year, unlike the past two – for obvious reasons – we can enjoy Christmas with our families and loved ones, and join in group events and celebrations, so all the more reason to get in the festive spirit and start planning what to do, where to go and, of course, what to eat and drink!

The festive season here in Radovljica kicks off tomorrow, Friday 2nd December, with the switching on of the Christmas lights in Linhart Square, the heart of the old town centre. It also marks the end of this year’s Taste Radol’ca Month of Local Menus, and as such the closing event will feature all of the participating Taste Radol’ca restaurants, whose chefs will be cooking up some delicious street food to keep visitors warm and well fed while listening to live music and enjoying the festive atmosphere.

Morda je slika naslednjega: 6 oseb in na prostem

Morda je slika naslednjega: 1 oseba, stati, hrana in znotraj

Thereafter, throughout the month of December there are a whole host of events taking place in Radovljica and the surrounding villages, too many to list here, so I have picked out a few highlights to whet your appetite and you can find the full programme here.

The very next day, Saturday 3rd December, the ever-popular monthly Radol’ca Market takes place from 10am to 1pm, this time with added entertainment for children with horses from the Sitar Ranch.

Morda je slika naslednjega: 3 osebe, ljudje stojijo, Konj in na prostem

I’m particularly looking forward to this month’s market as for the first time ever there will be a stall of gluten-free goodies, made by an acquaintance of mine who has her own gluten-free workshop, Šcepec Vanje (A Pinch of Vanja) and who I know through the Facebook group I set up and run for coeliacs. Cake pops, biscuits, honeybreads and more await!

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Even if you are lucky enough not to have to avoid gluten, it’s well worth trying Vanja’s divine profiteroles!

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On Sunday 4th December from 10am to 7pm there is a St. Nicholas market, creative workshop for children, theatre performance and a visit by St. Nicholas himself!

Miklavžev vikend v Radovljici

The annual Advent Market begins on Friday 9th December from 3pm to 7pm.

There will also be numerous street shows by Ana Snežna, as well as Čupakabra.

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So, as you can see, there’s plenty to see and do here in Radovljica throughout the month of December and, of course, since the town is close to the motorway and well connected by public transport, you can easily visit Ljubljana to see the Christmas lights and visit the Christmas market, as well as other towns and cities throughout Slovenia.

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So, this December, cherish time with your loved ones, spare a thought for those that aren’t in such a fortunate position and, above all, have a happy and healthy festive season!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

A Quick ‘Emergency’ Radol’ca Blog…With (Good) Reason!

So, having read the title of this blog, you’re intrigued, right?

Well, let me fill you in!

The reason for this quick ’emergency’ blog is that just a short while ago I spoke to the mayor of Radovljica, who was over the moon as yesterday Radol’ca won three (yes, three!) first places at the prestigious annual Moja dezela – lepo in gostoljubna (My Land – beautiful and hospitable) competition, which is run by the Tourist Association of Slovenia.

The town of Radovljica itself was awarded 1st place among all the tourist destinations in Slovenia, followed by Izola in second place and Bled in third place.

The village of Begunje na Gorenjskem was awarded 1st place among all the excursion destinations in Slovenia, followed by Štanjel and Marizege.

And finally the Šobec Camp was award first place among all of Slovenia’s campsites, followed by Camp Danica and Camp Koren.

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I told the mayor that I’d share this news with you – dear readers – as soon as possible and he asked me to convey how proud he is of this achievement.

Here’s just a teaser of what to expect when you visit, whether for the first time or for repeat visitors, of which there are many!

Radovljica – the historic old town centre of Radovljica, which will soon turn into a festive wonderland, museums and galleries, Taste Radol’ca restaurants (including one with a Michelin Star), a wealth of theme trails, hiking trails, cycle routes and more!

Begunje na Gorenjksem – the music and history of Avsenik Slovenian national folk music, the Elan Alpine Ski Museum, the Drava valley, Kamen Castle, Taste Radol’ca restaurants, and great hiking in the Karavanke mountains.

The Šobec camp – camping alongside the Sava river in the cool of pine trees in this multi-award-winning camp with its own natural lake.

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So, I’ve fulfilled my promise, now it’s up to you to come and see why Radol’ca has achieved such exceptional results!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

Let The Train Take The Strain!

With the world becoming, or trying to become, ever ‘greener’, many of us are trying to do our bit here and there, including taking public transport, where possible.

The great news is that Radovljica is really well connected, so it’s an ideal place to base yourself for getting around Slovenia and even further afield.

In addition to Radovljica’s new railway station, Slovenian Railways also introduced some new trains late last year. The first journey took place on the new electrified KISS trains, produced by the Swiss producer Stadler, on the Ljubljana-Litija line. The trains are renowned for their improved comfort, spaciousness and functionality, as well as panoramic windows for a literal ‘seat with a view’.

Na slovenskih železnicah prvi novi dvonadstropni električni vlak - Zelena Slovenija

Within minutes of stepping off the train at Radovljica’s railway station you can reach Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

It takes less than an hour to reach Radovljica from Ljubljana (or vice versa), or in the other direction, you can go to Jesenice and from there to Villach in Austria and onwards. In the opposite direction, i.e. from Ljubljana, you can travel to Maribor or Celje – Slovenia’s second and third largest cities respectively – or to Zagreb in Croatia and further.

Below I’ve put together a few suggestions of what to see and do by train (and bus) in the local area.

Take the train from Radovljica to Globoko, where you can visit the Barbana Stud Farm to see the famous white Lipizzaner horses.

Lipizzaner Stock Photos, Pictures & Royalty-Free Images - iStock

From Globoko you can either return by train or walk back through the Forest Nature Trail.

Take the train from Radovljica to Otoče, then walk the Otoče to Brezje Pilgrimage Trail.

On reaching Brezje, you can see Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary – the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians – as well as the Nativity Museum, then return to Radovljica by bus.

Take the bus from Radovljica to Bled, so much easier than searching (and paying!) for somewhere to park. I’m sure I don’t need to tell you about Bled’s ‘star attraction’!

Take the bus from Radovljica to Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Elan Alpine Skiing Museum, the Avsenik Museum, and the village is also an excellent destination for hiking in the Karavanke mountains, for example to St. Peter’s church above the village, on the Lamberg Trail past Kamen Castle to the Draga Valley, from where you can continue up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut or even higher up to Mt. Begunscica.

Photo: Miran Kambic

Of course, there are numerous other options, which, for travel in the Radol’ca area, the lovely folk at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre can help you with, or for travel further afield take a look at the Slovenian Railways website to get some more ideas of what to see and do.

So, why not sit back and let the train take the strain?!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

Be Cool and Keep Cool in Radol’ca!

With the current heatwave here and in much of Europe, no doubt many people’s thoughts are turning to how and where to keep cool. Well, in Slovenia it’s not that difficult really, since the country has so many forests and water sources.

Did you know that Slovenia has more than 60 rivers and streams, 300 artificial and natural lakes and 7,500 freshwater springs?

The confluence of the country’s longest river – the Sava – is in Radol’ca, more specifically in Lancovo, and in the country as a whole, you are never far away from a source of free, clean drinking water.

Photo: SDZV

In the Radol’ca area there are fountains with drinking water in various places, so all you need is a water bottle and you can fill up (free of charge!) along the way, whether on foot or by bike.

There are also several new rest areas, which are situated at road intersections and are the ideal for cyclists to stop for a drink, rest…

…and even a bit of (additional) exercise!

Perhaps you are wondering where to hike in this heat? Well, again, it’s not a problem, you just need to choose the right trails, i.e. ones that lead through the shade of the forest, and also make sure you set out early and have plenty of water with you.

My favourite ‘cool’ hike at this time of year, in fact I went there this morning, is the Shepherds’ Trail, which leads from the Draga valley up to the Preval mountain hut.

You can either return the same way on continue via the ‘čez Roza‘ trail towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Photo: J Gantar

If you want a shorter, easier walk, then the Sava River Trail runs partly through the cool of the forest, as do the Grabnarca Waterside Trail in the Lipnica valley, and the Lamberg Trail in Begunje na Gorenjskem.

If you’d prefer to be in, or on, the water in this heat, then there are plenty of opportunities to do that, too, in the Radol’ca area.

Although currently undergoing a complete renovation, work at the Radovljica swimming pool has temporarily stopped over the summer and the pool is open to visitors, and guests of the Šobec Camp have free access to the natural outdoor pool.

If you’d rather be on the water rather than in it, then rafting, canyoning, kayaking and other river-based activities are available on the Sava river and other nearby watercourses.

I, for one, am not moaning about the heat. Enjoy the heat while you can, I say, since winter is never far around the corner here in Gorenjska!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Rock to the Rhythm of Summer in Radol’ca!

After almost a year-and-a-half of preventative measures of varying degrees, Radol’ca’s summer events calendar kicks off in style this week, with almost a year-and-a-half’s worth of events in just one week!

The first event, and one that many have been waiting (im)patiently for, is the Queen Real Tribute Band, who were lined up to perform at the 2020 Radovljica Chocolate Festival, and who were also on standby for this year’s festival – both of which were cancelled, though a somewhat smaller festival is scheduled for 11th and 12th September this year – and will now finally be on stage this Thursday 1st July in the first of a series of Thursday evening concerts throughout July. The evening is due to start at 8pm with a Taste Radol’ca culinary market in the Radovljica park, which is open to all, followed by the band at 9pm (ticketed event).

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Those more interested in traditional Slovenian folk music can head for nearby Begunje na Gorenjskem where live music evenings have now resumed at Gostilna Avsenik (ticketed events) – the home of Slovenian folk music – with the Avsenik House Ensemble and other guest Slovenian folk music ensembles.

Fotografija: Ansambel Saša Avsenika začenja novo poglavje.

During this current heatwave, for many a cold beer is bound to hit the spot, so the Radovljica Craft Beer Festival, which takes place on Saturday 3rd July from 12noon onwards, is the place to be. The festival will be held in the Radovljica park and feature a food market with Slovenian craft beers and Taste Radol’ca food.

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Okusi Piva Radovljica

The Kropa Iron Forging Festival takes place on the same day, Saturday 3rd July. So, be sure to plan the day well and, in fact, why not head for Kropa first then stop off at Radovljica on the way back, but remember: Don’t drink and drive!

The festival will run from 10am to 6pm and includes free entrance to the Iron Forging Museum throughout the day, a reenactment of the life of Kropa’s blacksmiths with the Cofta Drama Group at 12noon in the Vigenjc Vice forge, a small craft market, open day at the UKO wrought iron factory, a demonstration of smelting iron ore, and more.

Also on the same day – yes, there’s more! – the regular monthly Vila Podvin farmers market takes place in the garden of Vila Podvin (one Michelin Star) from 10am to 12noon, where you can meet local producers and suppliers, and sample and buy their products.

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Once you have recovered from all of the above, there are plenty of other events coming up through the month of July. Check out the events calendar for more details.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking for somewhere (else) to ‘chill’, the Radovljica swimming pool is the ideal place to cool off at this time of year. I took this snap of it looking glorious in the sunshine earlier today from Obla gorica, the small hill behind the pool.

Note: many of the events are still subject to social distancing measures and are now ticketed, so be sure to check out the Visit Radol’ca website for the latest information.

© Adele in Slovenia

Radol’ca Re-opens!

Hooray, I am finally the bearer of some good news…it feels like a while since I’ve been able to say that!

Writing this feels a bit like groundhog day, as it was around this time last year that Slovenia began to exit its first lockdown and I published a similar blog on the subject. And here we are today, almost a year later and only now Radovljica, as well as the rest of Slovenia, is slowly beginning to re-open after three, seemingly endless, lockdowns.

Unfortunately, the vaccination programme is still going slowly – to date around one-fifth of the country’s 2 million residents has received at least one shot of a vaccine – but, notwithstanding, things are steadily moving in the right direction and finally, after 6 long months, the terraces of restaurants/bars etc. were able to re-open last week and as of yesterday (Monday 26 April) hotels and other accommodation facilities are able to open up to 30 rooms (regardless of the size of the property). Note, however, that a negative test or proof of vaccination is required to stay in an type of accommodation (camps included).

So, now you, well we if I include myself, can actually begin to start thinking about planning holidays, something that has seemed unthinkable for a long time now. And since most of us will no doubt – sensibly – prefer to avoid places overrun by mass tourism, it is destinations such as Radol’ca that come into their own with its boutique accommodation and numerous hiking trails and other off the beaten track attractions. So, here are a few ideas to help you in planning your visit to Radovljica – whether for a few hours, a few days, or even longer!

The Radovljica Tourist Information Centre has now, too, reopened, and is ready and waiting to help, whether you make contact by mail, by phone or drop in in person. The tourist office is at the entrance to the old town centre, which is the obvious place to start your visit to the area. Visit one of the museums or galleries in Linhart Square, admire the frescoes on the facades of townhouses, ‘Follow a bee through Radovljica‘, visit the Lectar honeybread workshop, see the baroque St. Peter’s church, and soak up the views of the Jelovica plateau and the Julian Alps from the viewpoint.

After taking in the sights of the old town, you can head off to explore the surrounding countryside. Take your pick from theme trails, hiking trails, the network of cycle routes, water sports, equestrian pursuits, mini-golf and more.

After record snowfall in some places, it’s still very much winter in Slovenia’s high mountains, fortunately here in Radol’ca there are plenty of hiking trails at lower altitudes. I’ve written about such trails on numerous occasions, so a quick search back through previous blog posts using key words will turn up plenty of info on hikes to, for example, Suharna, the Vodiška planina mountain hut, the Roblekov dom mountain hut, St. Peter’s church above Begunje na Gorenjskem, and more.

Of course, after all that fresh air and activity you will be in need of some sustenance, and you certainly won’t go hungry at Taste Radol’ca restaurants, the ethos of which is using seasonal, locally sourced, ingredients. At the time of writing, some of the restaurants have yet to re-open, since they are currently only allowed to serve customers outside on the terrace and for those with smaller terraces it is not worth their while re-opening. However, it is to be hoped that it won’t be too long until they are able to fully re-open. Radol’ca even has a Michelin-starred restaurantVila Podvin – as well as several other fine dining restaurants and numerous rural inns.

In terms of accommodation, there’s plenty to choose, from river-side camps to apartments, guest houses and other boutique accommodation.

In terms of events, it’s still a bit early to say what will and won’t take place this year. The Radovljica Chocolate Festival, which was cancelled last year and postponed this year, is provisionally scheduled to take place on 11th and 12th September this year, while the organisers are hoping that others events, such as the Craft Beer Festival and live music and food on Thursdays evenings in the square, will be able to go ahead in summer, in some form or another. But at the moment it’s a case of watch this space to see how things pan out.

Of course, all the above-mentioned are in the Radol’ca area itself, meaning there’s still a whole host of other places waiting to be explored in the surrounding areas; the Julian Alps and Triglav National Park are on the doorstep, Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj are close, Slovenia’s capital Ljubljana is just a cca. 40 minute drive, and even places such as the Postojna caves, the Soča valley, and Slovenia’s coast are all within a 1-2 hour drive – nothing is that far away in Slovenia!

So, I hope I have provided you with some food for thought and ideas to help your holiday planning and, as and when there is (even) more news about more things opening up, I’ll be in touch with more up-to-date info, or, in the meantime, do feel free to drop me a line if you need more info. Always happy to help, well, within reason that is!

© Adele in Slovenia

Taste Taste Radol’ca…at Home!

A follower of my blog in Canada recently wrote to me asking if I could write a post about Slovenian recipes, so how could I refuse to comply! So, Mary in Canada, this one is for you!

Since all the restaurants, bars, cafes etc. are (still) closed – it’s been like this here since the end of October last year – we (both the owners of such establishments and the public at large) have had to get used to cooking more at home whilst also taking advantage of the take-away food on offer at selected places. Many of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants have been offering take-away food and, in fact, it has actually been to my advantage in some respect that chefs have had more time to ‘play’ in their kitchens, and Aleš Tavčar, head chef and owner of Gostišče Draga in the Draga valley in Begunje na Gorenjskem, finally found time to make me a glut of gluten-free štruklji to go in my freezer.

And since štruklji really are something unbeknown to most of the world, they were the first thing that sprung to mind when deciding which Slovenian recipe to first write about.

Štruklji at Gostišče Draga

The recipe and photos shown below are for gluten-free štruklji, which, due to gluten being what provides the ‘elastic’ in dough mixes, are slightly different to ‘regular’ štruklji. Therefore, I should stress that ‘normal’ flour will provide you with a better result and your štruklji will look and taste somewhat better too, so unless you have to avoid gluten (coeliac disease in my case, though others have an intolerance and/or choose not to eat it for other reasons) you can use the same quantity of regular flour. These days I’m just happy to be able to eat them, even if they aren’t exactly as I remember them in my pre-coeliac days.

The full recipe with quantities is at the end of this post.

First gather the ingredients for the dough – flour, salt, egg, vinegar, water, oil.

Combine them well but don’t overwork the dough.

Shape the dough into a round loaf shape.

Next, make the filling using curd cheese, eggs, sour cream and salt.

Mash (or mince) the curd cheese well, add the eggs and sour cream then season with salt.

Roll out the dough – after watching the ‘pro’, I was allowed to help with this part!

Spread a generous amount of the filling mix over the dough.

Next its time to roll the štruklji then lift them gently onto lightly oiled foil or a non-stick cloth before steaming or cooking into salted simmering water.

This is the basic, traditional way of cooking and serving štruklji, but these days, in terms of how you choose to eat them and what kind of fillings/flavours you add, the sky’s the limit. You can eat them as a main course, a side dish or even chocolate štruklji for dessert. I’ve yet to find a flavour I don’t like!

At Gostišče Draga you can try a savoury version with a mushroom sauce…

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…or, my preferred option, topped with cranberry sauce for a savoury/sweet taste.

Until the restaurant is able to reopen – and in fact also thereafter too as they have proved to be such a success – you can buy some of Gostišče Draga’s dishes and home produce from the family farm in jars. The range include goulash, jota, bograč and various pickled vegetables. Aleš and Tina have certainly not been resting on their laurels during this long lockdown – all credit to them. The jars can be bought direct at the restaurant (at weekends), at the Lesce farmers market (Friday afternoons/Saturday mornings), from the vending machine outside Gostilna Kunstelj, and at various local shops as well as further afield.

No photo description available.

Recipe

Dough:

370g flour (gluten-free or regular)

pinch of salt

One egg

10g vinegar

300g water

90g oil

Filling:

1kg curd cheese

6 eggs

200g sour cream

Salt

Method:

Make the dough by mixing together the flour, eggs, water, vinegar and oil then shape into a round loaf.

Make the filling by mashing/mincing the curd cheese then add the eggs and sour cream and season with salt.

Roll out the dough – it should be very thin – ???? then spread over the filling. Roll the štruklji into a Swiss roll shape then lift gently onto lightly oiled foil or a non-stick cloth and roll to fully encase the štruklji. Steam for 45 minutes or cook into salted simmering water for 30 minutes.

And that’s it – simple when you know how!

Let me know how you get on!

© Adele in Slovenia