Slovenia – A Land of Dreams?

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I was on the radio (again) this week, this time on Radio Slovenia featuring in their series of ‘Land of Dreams’ broadcasts about foreigners living in Slovenia. If you want to hear more about my life here in Radovljica, why I’m here, what keeps me here and hear a few insider tips, then take a listen. Before anyone corrects me – and they will as Slovenes are nothing if not perfectionists (someone actually once went to the time and effort to call me to tell me there was a spelling mistake in an advert I had written; the ‘mistake’ amounted to one ‘e’!) – I know, only too well, having been there on numerous occasions that Stol isn’t 2400 metres high but I was had a microphone in my face and it was a slip of the tongue!). So is Slovene really a ‘Land of Dreams’? As a tourist destination I wholeheartedly believe it is; as somewhere to live perhaps less so, especially if you need to make a living it’s tough going, but it’s my home and I wouldn’t have it any other way – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKMx99NwsxM&index=63&list=PLnbpYjwaZ3nrsihfBfUy-mf3jsLDSsDAn

It was another busy week and, believe it or not, a WHOLE WEEK WITHOUT RAIN, well until the storm on Sunday evening but we won’t mention that little detail! Being about the first time that has happened since June, it is indeed something to write about! It’s funny how this year the appearance of the sun, or at least the non-appearance of rain, is actually a talking point in itself. Last week I mentioned I was hoping to go to Koper to the Sladka Istra Sweet Festival on Sunday, however, I didn’t go; though for once it wasn’t the rain that curtailed my plans but instead the major road works taking place on the motorway to/from the coast, meaning one lane is closed in each direction. On Friday there was a 20km tailback and I really didn’t fancy getting stuck in something like that especially since Sunday afternoons are notoriously busy with day trippers and holidaymakers returning from the coast. The road works are due to continue for another month so if you are planning a trip in that direction it might be wise to check the traffic information website for live updates, a link to which can be found in the ‘Useful Tourist Information’ section on the right hand side.

On Wednedsay I met David and Leslie, a lovely couple from Kansas, USA, who were on a whistle stop tour of Slovenia, and who I helped with some of their trip plans. Despite being possibly the most jet-lagged people I’ve ever met, they stoically landed in Slovenia on Wednesday afternoon, checked-in at their hotel in Bled, went straight to Vintgar Gorge, then came to Radovljica where we met for a short tour of the old town followed by dinner at Lectar Inn; determined as they were to stay awake and adjust to European time. The next day they undertook a driving tour of the Julian Alps, including driving over Slovenia’s highest mountain pass, Vršič (1611m), which is no mean feat when they had never driven a car with a gear stick before! They survived to tell the tale though and thoroughly enjoyed their (all too) brief visit to Gorenjska.

I also enjoyed a meal with a friend to celebrate her finding a new job. As she regularly plays golf at Bled Golf Course, we arranged to meet there and had dinner at the Lake House Inn. It was here that last year I also enjoyed a lovely birthday celebration with friends and family. As is to be expected on a golf course there are lush, green, tranquil surroundings, however here they come with the added bonus views of the surrounding mountains of the Karavanke range, all-in-all making for a very pleasant place to spend some time whether a lover of golf or not – oh and the food’s well worth coming for too!

Being home to the Museum of Apiculture (beekeeping), Radovljica is inextricably linked with beekeeping and throughout the year there are several events linked to it. This weekend, it was the turn of the Festival of Honey, held at the Beekeeping Education Centre of Gorenjska, which is in Lesce, halfway between Radovljica and Bled. There was all mannor of honey relating things going on including a demonstration of cooking using honey from one of Slovenia’s top chefs, Uroš Štefelin, honey cocktail mixing, honey ice-cream, honey beer, massages using honey and more. They did our bees proud!

Also on Saturday, in the village of Mošnje, the annual Mošnje Days event took place. It’s a celebration of local food, drink and crafts, and also an opportunity to have a look at the village museum and the Vila Rustica archaeological site. I also bumped into Radovljica’s mayor there and shared a chat with him over a thimbleful of homemade walnut schnapps. We were both in agreement about being proud to live in Radovljica and about the achievements and progression that has been made here in the past few years – long may it continue (there are also more pictures of the day, as well as other things I have blogged about, on my Pinterest page).

Bled has once again been making the headlines this week, this time being named as of the 30 Most Beautiful Small Towns in the World. Read more about it here – http://www.architecturendesign.net/the-30-most-beautiful-small-towns-in-the-world-2-is-an-amazing-secret/

15Sep2014

A super ‘sweet’ week ahead!

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I decided on the title of this week’s blog for several reasons, not least of which because, according to the forecasters if they are to be believed, the weather gods may finally be shining on Slovenia this week, and for the whole week too. If that is the case, it hasn’t come a moment too soon as last week saw unprecedented (for this time of the year) floods in many parts of the country, landslides, and 35cm of snow in the high mountains.

The second reason for the choice of title is that this weekend, on Saturday 20th September, the Beekeeping Education Centre of Gorenjska will host the Festival of Honey (Festival medu in Dan medu v kulinariki) from 9.30am – 6pm. The centre is located in the town of Lesce, halfway between Radovljica and Bled. It houses a shop, which sells all kinds of honey, honey products and beekeeping requisites and a café where, during fine weather, you can enjoy a drink outside in the patio garden at the rear of the building where you can also see a beehive and watch the bees coming and going. As well as being interesting for visitors, the centre is also a hive of activity (pun intended!) for beekeepers as it offers them facilities to assist with the production of honey and its by-products; a honey bottling and packaging room, a wax processing plant. The centre is also used to provide training and education for existing and prospective beekeepers, as well as promoting beekeeping in Slovenia, one of the oldest and most traditional rural activities, and protection of the indigenous Carniolan bee species.

The Festival of Honey is an annual event which celebrates all things honey-related and in particular aims to demonstrate its versatility. Throughout the day there is a market with stalls selling a wide range of honey and honey-related products as well as demonstrations of the use of honey in cooking, a cocktail mixing demonstration, honey massages, workshops for adults and children and more. The event is free to attend. With my sweet tooth, I’m bound to found lingering there somewhere!

The Lectar Inn Live Museum and Gingerbread Workshop in Radovljica is another great ‘sweet’ place to spend a short while, come rain or shine. Despite having lived here now for over seven years, I still enjoy going there for a snoop around; the smell of the freshly baked gingerbread, watching the gingerbread makers at their craft, the friendly welcome, the staff dressed in traditional clothing. In fact I was there last Friday, together with Alison and her family from England. Alison had been searching for somewhere to go for a special holiday during which she, and two other family members, would be celebrating their birthdays, one of them being a ‘special’ birthday. She had never even considered Slovenia but having stumbled upon my blog, the decision was made (oh, the pressure!). There followed several months of correspondence whilst I helped her put together the perfect itinerary for their trip. So, of course after all those emails back and forth, we felt like old friends and it was lovely to meet up, proudly show them around my home town, and enjoy a meal together. Their trip covered most of Slovenia and whilst in this area included a guided two-day hike in the mountains (the plan was Triglav but the weather had other ideas), a steam train ride, dinner at Bled Castle, a guided photography tour, a visit to Vintgar gorge and to Bohinj Lake. Their trip also encompassed visiting Ljubljana, the Soča Valley and the coast and, hailing from Wales, they certainly didn’t let the weather stop them – I’m so pleased that it all worked out.

The third, and final, reason for the title is that this coming weekend is one of my favourite events of the year, the Istra Sweet Festival (Sladka Istra). The festival, which takes place at the coast in the town of Koper, is a feast of sweet treats of every size, shape and flavour imaginable – cakes, pancakes, biscuits, chocolates, drinks and more – basically the sweeter the better! The festival takes place over 2 days and the date is always firmly noted in my diary. This year, there is also a Coastal Bike Marathon happening on the same weekend and, all being well, I am aiming to participate in that – so I can eat even more sweet stuff of course! More about that next week!

Did you know that Bled lake has just been listed as being among the ’21 Most Spectacular Lakes on Earth’? Read more about it here and, if you haven’t visited yet, what are you waiting for!! – http://www.huffingtonpost.com/minube/the-21-most-spectacular-l_b_5471994.html

1Sep2014

Zelenci Pools, Ljubelj Pass, and ‘Forever Young’!

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It was brief but great whilst it lasted, which could perhaps be said of many things in life! I am, however, referring to the brief return of ‘summer’ that we enjoyed last week. It began on Wednesday when, after a very cool start to the day, late morning all of a sudden the clouds lifted, the sun broke through and it felt warm, hot even. Oh how I rejoiced at seeing the blue sky, feeling the sun’s rays on my all-too pale skin and I felt my mood instantly lifted. There’s one thing for sure, when you haven’t had, or seen, something for a long time, you certainly appreciate it even more. Alas, it didn’t last and thus only served as a reminder of what we have, this ‘summer’ missed out on. As I sit writing this on Monday morning, it’s currently 10 degrees out there and I can see snow on the tops of the mountains brrr…..

Unsurprisingly then, I didn’t waste a minute and since it was a slack week workwise, I was able to cram in quite a few walks and bike rides. So here is the run down, which I hope will also offer some ideas for short walks and bike rides around the area.

On Wednesday afternoon I drove to Trzič on onwards to Ljubelj for a walk up the old Ljubelj pass. Prior to the building of the Karavanke tunnel from Slovenia to Austria in 1991, all transport from the Gorenjska region towards the Ferlach region of Austria used to travel over the Ljubelj pass which passed over the Karavanke range reaching a height of 1370m. One can only imagine how painstakingly slow the journey must have been, particularly in days of old when cars didn’t have as much grunt as they do nowadays.

The original road, which is now only suitable for walking as well as being a popular destination for sledging in the winter, closed to traffic in 1967, when an improved, wider road was built, which is today still in use, though less frequently so with many choosing to drive through the Karavanke tunnel instead. The Ljubelj tunnel was built on the order of Nazis by civilians and prisoners from the nearby Mauthasen concentration camp. Today, the remains of the concentration camp still stand just beneath the Ljubelj pass, where one can stop at the memorial to see the site and take a moment to ponder the horrific lives the prisoners there endured.

Today the mountain hut ‘Koča na Ljubelju’ is a popular destination in itself, and takes only around 45 minutes to reach from the parking area, as well as it being an onward point for hikes on both the Slovene and Austrian side of the Karavanke. The two obeslisks, as seen below, mark the border between the two countries and one is spoilt for choice with views across both Slovenia and Austria,.

Thursday morning began with a ride to the Završnica reservoir followed by a walk up to the Valvasor mountain hut (Valvasorjev dom) which sits at 1181m, on the slopes of Mount Stol. Not content with just that, in the afternoon I drove to Kranjska Gora from where I walked across the pastures to the picturesque village of Podkoren, which is particularly popular with skiers in the winter, and from there onwards to the Zelenci springs. These emerald green pools are known for the springs which rise up from the bottom of the pools and for the water temperature which remains at 5-6 degrees year-round, regardless of the air temperature. The clarity of the water, the stunning surrounding alpine scenery is reflected in the pools and it is a wonderful place to enjoy a moment of calm.

On Friday, together with some friends who are over from the UK, we cycled the 35km lowland cycle route from Radovljica through the Lipnica valley. More information about the route can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/lowland-cycling-trail/

On Saturday morning, after cycling to the Draga Valley, I hiked up to the Preval highland then took the route ‘čez Roža’ to reach the Roblek mountain hut, (Roblekov dom) at 1672m. Sadly, the path from Draga to Preval, particularly the lower half of it, is currently in a pretty bad state and barely resembles the pleasant path it once was due to the ravages of this year’s winter. The path from Preval to Roblek however was improved last year and remains as scenic as ever.

On Saturday afternoon the Večno mladi (Forever Young) parade took place through the streets of Radovljica. This event, which has been taking place annually on the last weekend in August since 1975, begins with a hike for the club members to Stol, the highest peak in the Karavanke range. The remainder of the entertainment, comprising a parade through the streets of Radovljica complete with marching bands, Slovene folk music, old-timer bikes and cars, is open for all to enjoy and participate. The festivities then continue into the night with a concert and fireworks display on the Saturday evening. More pictures can be found of this, and other such events and places, on my Pinterest page.

Meanwhile, following this weekend’s mini-marathon in Bled, next weekend comes the Bled Triathlon. There are triathlon categories to suit everyone; from those wanting to just ‘give it a try (the Super Sprint triathlon), to those wanting to conquer an Olympic distance triathlon, as well as a relay event and an aquathlon. More information can be found here – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/09/06/1340-Triathlon-Bled

14Jul2014

The Sextons’ Museum House / Bled Days and Nights

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For the 7th time in the 23 years that Slovenia has been an independent country, the nation took to the polls again this Sunday to casts their votes in the snap general election, called following the resignation of Alenka Bratušek, the previous leader of the coalition government, on losing the battle for leadership of the ‘Positive Slovenia’ party after only 14 months in office. Although I now have permanent residency in Slovenia, I do not have citizenship and am therefore not entitled to vote. To be honest, even if I did have the right I wouldn’t know where to start with such a vast number of parties in the running and I will thus refrain (at least here) from proffering my views on Slovenia’s fragmented political affairs, especially since most, if not all, visitors to the country are of course blissfully oblivious to all the goings on behind the scenes and are free to enjoy the beauty of the country without having to endure its politics – a state in which I too would like to remain.

The weather during the past week has been far from summery, especially on Thursday when the daytime high here in the valley was only around 12 degrees and more than a few centimetres of fresh snow fell in the Julian Alps (you can see the photos I posted on my Facebook page). We are being promised ‘normal’ summer temperatures up to around 30 degrees from midweek onwards, so here’s hoping, it’s about time. This has meant I’ve had to somewhat, temporarily at least, curtail my plans for summer exploration and this week have been unable to tick-off any of the places on my personal ‘To See and To Do’ list!

On Saturday, I was headed towards the Pokljuka plateau for a walk but the threatening black clouds and distant rumble of thunder meant that I instead stopped at Bled and went for a walk around the lake; a regular fall back option if the weather is poor. In the event, carrying my (unopened) umbrella did the trick and ensured the sun came out and shined brilliantly for the entire circuit of the lake though within minutes of returning to the car the heavens opened. As is usual in the summer season, Bled was bustling with tourists; many walking around the lake, others relaxing by it, some taking a boat ride over it in one of Bled’s famous pletna boats, and others taking the tourist train around it. However you choose to see it, and/or travel around it, Lake Bled never fails to delight and it was particularly abuzz on Saturday as preparations were in full swing for the towns’ biggest running event – the 10k Night Run, which always attracts a large turnout of both participants and spectators.

On my return home I diverted to the village of Kamna Gorica, in the Lipnica Valley, for a look at the newly opened Sextons’ Museum House. The house, dating from 1803, stands perched on a small hill above the village, next to St. Trinity’s church, and affords wonderful views across the village and to the mountains of the Karavanke range. Kamna Gorica, together with nearby Kropa, was formerly one of the main iron working villages in the area of what is the present day Slovenia, and despite its modest size, the village has lots of points of interest, among them the water canals that run through the village which previously served the needs of the forges and led to the village also being known as ‘Little Venice’.

The house, which had been derelict for many years, has now been lovingly restored and laid out as a museum. It contains an original black kitchen and preserved living areas and offers an insight into life in Kamna Gorica then and now, and of the lives of those who used to live and work in the house and church. Note: entrance to the museum is free although voluntary contributions towards its upkeep are appreciated. More information about the house and opening times can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/the-sextons-museum-house/

Kamna Gorica can also be visited on the Hop-On Hop-Off Tourist Bus, which is now operating throughout the summer until 31st August. Kamna Gorica is one of the stopping points on Tuesdays when the buses run on the route Bled-Radovljica-Kropa. The bus represents great value as the price of a full day ticket is just 5 euros and children under 10 travel for free and you can pick and choose where to get on and off and what to see and do. There are numerous places and sights of interest that can be visited as well as special offers for those travelling by bus. The Hop-On Hop-Off bus also runs on Thursdays on the route Bled-Radovljica-Begunje-Brezje, and on Saturdays and Sundays on the route Bled-Bohinj-Pokljuka-Triglav National Park. More information can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/hop-on-hop-off-radolca/

Next week its time again for Bled Days and Nights, one of the biggest annual events held in Bled, which attracts a large crowd of visitors from both home and abroad. The event takes places over three days, beginning on Friday 18th July and some of the highlights include:

An art and craft fair
Concerts and performances
A vintage cycle parade
Candles on the lake
Fireworks

More information about the event can be found here – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/07/18/1511-Bled-Days-and-Bled-Night

Also coming up in the week ahead:

Tuesday 15th July – Free guided tour of Radovljica’s old town centre at 10am / Free guided tour of Kamna Gorica at 4.30pm
Thursday 17th July – Music Thursdays in Radovljica, Free concert in Linhart Square at 8pm with the group ‘Mojo Hand’
Saturday 19th July – The start of this year’s Okarina Etno Festival in Bled. The festival then continues with further dates into August. 10pm at Bled Shopping Centre with the band RIC (Roots Intention Crew) from France.

8Jul2014

Triglav National Park Information / Garden Village, Bled

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On Tuesday last week I went to the opening of the Triglav Roža Information Centre, which reopened its doors after a lengthy closure for refurbishment. The centre is located on the main road into Bled (Ljubljanska cesta 27) and is an excellent point-of-call for visitors to the Gorenjska region, especially those planning to spend some time in Triglav National Park, Slovenia’s only national park. The centre contains some interesting permanent exhibitions including about Slovenia’s highest mountain, Triglav and the National Park, as well as information about other parts of the Gorenjska region. Visitors can also watch a video and obtain maps and information. The centre is open daily from 8am – 6pm during the summer and from 8am – 4pm in the winter.

Whilst in Bled, I also took the opportunity to go and have a look at the new Garden Village Resort, which opened last month and wow is it AMAZING! Those that know me, will attest to the fact that I’m not exactly known for my ability to relax (always hiking/biking/running…..) but even I felt relaxed there among the green and serene surroundings, sitting by the pool area, sipping a cool elderflower cordial……. Happy Days – even if only briefly whilst I watched how the other half live!

The resort, located just 5 minutes from Lake Bled, is certainly ‘glamping’ at its best. It comprises a mixture of luxury tented accommodation, tree houses and apartments. The whole ethos of the resort is built around being ‘green’ – both visually and operationally – and it shows. The attention to detail is remarkable in every area including the restaurant, wellness and the gardens, where guests are able to literally pick and eat whatever is growing around the resort. Their website says ‘Adventurous, Romantic and Exclusive’ and I’d have to agree. Now, if only I could find someone adventurous and romantic to share it with!!! For those of you lucky to have found adventure and romance, here’s the link (it’s already pretty much booked up for this summer season) – http://www.gardenvillagebled.com/

With the weather being so glorious for the weekend, I had a tough decision to make as to where to go and what to do – so much choice – so in the end I did a bit of everything! Saturday began with an early morning start, cycling from home to the lake at Bohinj. I then took the gondola up to the Vogel Ski Resort, which was celebrating its 50th anniversary of operation and thus had 50% discount on the usual ride charge. There was a great party atmosphere up there with plenty of entertainment including national folk music, presentations of national costumes and old-timer bikes, guided walks, workshops for children and market stalls. As a non-skier, I have only previously visited Vogel once during the autumn when it was shrouded in mist and there were no views to be seen and I was unable to explore the area fully. This time, it couldn’t have been more different. It was a glorious day and I was able to grasp just how extensive the area is and how much there is to see and do up there, regardless of the season. Being a ski resort, I’d always considered it more of a winter venue, but how wrong was I, and it has now been added to my list of summer destinations too – next time I might even consider hiking up there too! There are a wide choices of walks, either shorter, easier ones such as the Vogel Trail, or longer ones to one of the many peaks or highlands of the Julian Alps, such as Rodica or Planina Sija. The Orlove Glave chairlift also operates during the summer and can be used to shorten some of the hikes. There is also a bike park, several places to eat and drink and of course, it goes without saying, stunning and far-reaching views in all directions.

It’s going to be another busy week ahead with lots going on in the Radovljica/Bled area. Here is just a pick of the events:

Tuesday 8th July

Open Day at the Sextons’ Museum House in Kamna Gorica, 10am-6pm, entrance free (also on Saturday 12th & Sunday 13th July)
Free guided tour of Kamna Gorica, 4.30pm

Thursday 10th July

Music Thursdays in Linhart Square in Radovljica’s old town centre – Every Thursday in July from 8.00pm – this week ‘San Di Ego Band’
Story-telling by the fire at Camp Šobec – Join the Triglav National Park rangers to listen to some of the myths and legends of the Slovenian mountains – 9pm, free event (also for those not resident at the camp)

Saturday 12th July

10km Night Run around Lake Bled – The annual and largest running event in Bled – from 5pm – more information here https://www.nocna10ka.net/info/race

27Jun2014

Taste Radol’ca – The Pr’Kovač Inn, Kropa

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A double whammy of blogs this week, for two reasons: the first being that I simply couldn’t wait until next week to share my enthusiasm about the Pr’Kovač Inn, in Kropa, which also just happens to be one of my favourite villages around the Radovljica area; secondly, because there is so much going on at this time of year I have far too much to write about for just one blog! Perhaps I might also provide you with some inspiration for where to visit this weekend too.

I always enjoyed visiting Kropa; more often than not I visit by bike, either as part of a longer ride elsewhere, such as over Jamnik, or for a hike up to the Vodiška planina highland. From Radovljica is it 10 kilometres to Kropa via the road through the tranquil Lipnica valley. Kropa’s somewhat isolated position, nestled at the foot of the far western edge of the Jelovica plateau, is also part of its appeal, together with its rich architectural and cultural heritage which make it unique, charming and characterful. The village is known as being the cradle of iron forging in Slovenia and this is evident throughout the entire village where each house is adorned with some kind of ornate iron work and the village is full of interesting sights such as the rushing waters of the Kroparica stream, the two churches and various sculptures and memorials. Interestingly, in 1953, Kropa was also the first village in Slovenia to receive the status of being a protected cultural monument.

There’s also so much more to see and do in Kropa, such as:

* A visit to the Museum of Iron Forging

* Hike up to the Vodiška planina highland and visit the Partizan mountain hut for delicious home-cooked food

* Visit the headquarters of the wrought-iron company UKO

* Visit the Fovšaritnica Museum House to see one of the best preserved examples of how iron-worker families used to live

* See the source of the Kroparica stream

* Visit the Vice-Spike foundry (by prior arrangement only)

The Pr’Kovač Inn is located right in the heart of the village and as soon as you enter through its door, you get a sense of what is to follow. The décor and the ambience just smack of good, honest, uncomplicated home-cooking and hospitality, and it doesn’t disappoint. Its all in the detail even down to the the crockery, cutlery, menus and presentation. In fine weather, a seat outside in the shady area next to the Kroparica stream is also pleasant, though do be sure to go inside a take a look!

Owned and run by Blaž Staroverski (seen with me above), the restaurant also recently received rave reviews and top marks in one of Slovenia’s leading newspapers, and since it is also one of the seven restaurants that participate in Taste Radol’ca, and being one that is still remaining on my list, a visit was long overdue.

Being a unique village, Kropa also has some original local dishes and therefore I left it to Blaž to acquaint me with a few tasting samples of just some of the dishes available on the menu. With Kropa’s mere existence being based on the tradition of blacksmithing, most of the population would have, to some extent, been involved in hard, physical labour and thus required robust, hearty food. This tradition still continues, however, under Blaž’s leadership, he manages to create robust, hearty dishes with modern innovation and finesse – and all using the freshest and most local ingredients available.

First, a thick hearty bean soup, served in a typical clay dish, which one can imagine would really hit the spot on a cold winter’s day, flavoured with home-grown herbs.
Next was buckwheat served with mushrooms and a creamy, rich mushroom sauce. Buckwheat is used a lot in Slovene cooking, either as an ingredient or as a stand-alone dish but, for my palate, it can sometimes be a little dull and lacking in flavour if not well cooked and seasoned. This dish however was delicious, really flavourful and I could have quite happily eaten a whole dish of it.
A salad followed – all of course direct and fresh from the restaurant’s own garden and lightly dressed with oil and vinegar.
The main course comprised tender pork fillet in a cranberry sauce, homemade curd cheese štruklji (a Slovene speciality – a kind of rolled, filled dumpling) and vegetables
With just enough room left, I, of course, managed to sample the dessert too! Described as a ‘buckwheat omelette’ it was more reminiscent of a light muffin, filled with a fruit sauce and accompanied by forest strawberries, chocolate sauce and ice-cream coated in a light nut and crumb crust.

Although I didn’t have an opportunity to try it on this occasion, since it was fresh out of the oven and baked to fulfil an order, the HUGE tarragon potica, as seen in the photo above looks a-m-a-z-i-n-g! I shall definitely be returning to test that sometime soon!

An ideal time to visit Kropa is during the time of the annual Iron Forging Festival, which this year takes place on Saturday 5th July. More information can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/83/iron-foging-festival-2014/83/153/

24Jun2014

At the top of the Karavanke / ‘Kremšnita’ cream cake in Bled

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Despite the mountain of work awaiting me, and despite my best intentions to spend the day tackling it, when I woke up on Sunday morning to see the perfect blue, cloudless sky above Stol, theI lure of the mountain ‘proper’ won out over the lure of the mountain of work – and so off I went.

At 2236m, Stol, meaning ‘chair’ due to its shape, is the highest peak in the Karavanke range, is a landmark in the Gorenjska region. Luckily for me, I can see it from my bedroom window. It is quite common for its peak to be shrouded in cloud and often accompanied by a strong wind too. However, this Sunday there wasn’t a cloud in sight other than a few whispy ones that disappeared as quickly as they appeared. There was also no wind blowing, not even a breeze, and also neither searingly hot nor unpleasantly cold – in short, a perfect day for it. Many people choose to drive up and start their hike from the Valvasor mountain hut (1181m), cutting about an hour off the time needed for the ascent. I however prefer to begin from the valley floor in Završnica. Setting off from the car park next to the small reservoir, I followed the path, first to the Valvasor hut, then onwards and upwards via the (slightly steeper and shorter) Žirovniška path, descending via the (slightly longer and less steep) Zabreška path – this making it a circular route. As can be seen in the photos below, there’s still a little snow up there, in the gully between the top of Stol, to the left, and the Prešeren mountain hut (Prešernova koca), to the right. However, as the route up is on the sunny, southern facing, side it has almost all gone. The same cannot be said of the Julian Alps, where there is currently still a lot of snow remaining. As the Karavanke form a natural border between Slovenia and Austria, Stol can also be climbed from the Austrian side, though the ascent is more exposed, more rocky and, at this time of the year, more snowy than the southern facing Slovene side. Of course, with it being such a lovely day, I certainly didn’t have the place to myself. You can probably just about make out the ant-like looking line of people on the top in the photos below.

On Saturday afternoon, I popped to Bled to the opening of the summer season programme of the Sava Bled Hotels group, on the terrace at Hotel Park overlooking Lake Bled. The hotel is famous for its Bled cream cake ‘kremšnita’, which it has been producing for over 60 years. The cake comprises a thick layer each of cream and custard between two sheets of thin pastry. As well as the ever popular cake, this year some new flavours of the cake have been created, including chocolate and forest fruits. Not one to turn down such an opportunity, and seeing as they were on a special 2-for-1 offer, I, of course, indulged and, being the chocoholic that I am, can confirm they are both equally delicious with the chocolate one perhaps just edging it for me! You can read more about the Bled cream cake here – http://www.bled.si/en/what-to-see/symbols-of-bled/cream-cake

The Bled Sava Hotels also have a packed programme of musical events throughout the summer including traditional Slovene evenings, music and dance nights by the lake, acoustic music evenings, a cappella performances and more – and even better they are free to attend too (though of course some form of eating and/or drinking will be encouraged!).

Talking of hotels, last week, coincidentally on the same day, saw the official opening of 2 new exciting additions to Slovenia’s range of hotels. In Ljubljana, the Four Points by Sheraton Ljubljana Mons opened. This was quite a major event as it is the first globally branded hotel to enter Ljubljana for over a decade. Meanwhile, in Bled the new eco-tourist green resort – Garden Village Bled – also opened. I have yet to go and take a peek (its on my ‘to-do’ list) but it looks pretty exciting and unique and I will write more about it once I’ve had a chance to get there in person.

Schools in Slovenia officially break up today (24.6.). Yes, the school summer holidays here are very long! Tomorrow, 25th June, is a public holiday – Statehood Day (dan državnosti).

With the holidays here there are now even more events happening around the Radovljica/Bled areas, just some of which I have picked out and listed below:

Wednesday 25th June – Free Guided Tour of the Path of Peace (Pot miru) in Brezje – Meet at the restaurant Pr’Finžgarju – 9am

Thursday 26th June – Slovene Evening with Live Music at the restaurant Gostilna Tulipan in Lesce – 7.30pm

Friday 27th June – Free Guided Walk of the new Bled Fitness Promenade – 5pm

Friday 27th June – Open-Air Cinema at Linhart Hall, Radovljica (and every Friday throughout the summer) – French comedy film ‘9 mois ferme’ (9 mesecev šoka) – 9pm

From 1st – 17th July – The 19th International Music Festival Bled – A variety of music; classical, jazz, cross-over in different locations around Bled. More information can be found here – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/07/01/1329-19th-Festival-Bled-2014

16Jun2014

The Grmečica Waterfall

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

The start to last week was HOT, to say the least! Temperatures were in the mid-thirties up until Thursday when, as forecast, a big storm swept through the valley, bringing the temperatures right down. At this time of year it’s not uncommon to have afternoon storms, some of them quite violent, so its usually generally best to get up and out early to be back in the safe and dry before they hit. Despite the climate here being alpine, the afternoon storms can sometimes make it feel like being in the tropics, but they don’t usually last long.

As I mentioned in last week’s blog, one of my favourite activities at this time of the year (apart from eating ice-cream!) is cycling. If I’m short of time, a ride that I like to do is the Lowland Cycle Route (35.6km) which begins in Radovljica and leads through the Lipnica Valley. One of Slovenia’s top cyclists, Marko Baloh has just released a video of him riding the entire route and described it as being most scenic and particularly good for winter training as it is flat(ish) – nothing is entirely flat in Gorenjska – and almost entirely on tarmac roads, except a kilometre or so which can be bypassed for those on road bikes. The video can be seen here – http://www.kinomap.com/watch/9jddwx

I have compiled quite a list of places to go and things to see/do, adding to it whenever I read about a new path or somewhere I haven’t yet been, and gradually ticking them off the list as I get round to them. One of such is the Grmečica waterfall which, as of Saturday, I can now tick off the list too! Slovenia has hundreds of waterfalls and Grmečica must be certainly one of the less known and is far from being one of the biggest/highest/widest or any other such superlatives. However, to me at least, therein lies its beauty. Admittedly, the waterfall, which seemingly emerges from nowhere, isn’t in itself that impressive, there’s no gushing water, more of a trickle, certainly at this time of the year. However, its location amid hidden canyons, with crystal clear water and small pools, off the beaten track, and rarely frequented, makes it all the more interesting.

The waterfall, hidden under the northwest edge of the Jelovica plateau, was previously barely accessible as there was no way of crossing the Sava Bohinjka river. However, since a new suspension bridge across the river was built in 2010, it has now become a lot easier to reach. It is best reached on foot from the village of Nomenj, on the road from Bled to Bohinj. A path leads under the railway line, across the river and then alongside the river before reaching the waterfall. After seeing the waterfall you can double-back to take the unmarked, but clearly visible, path which leads steeply up through the forest above the waterfall for impressive views deep down into the canyon below. There are ropes installed in some places which indicate that the area may be, now or perhaps in the past, used for canyoning. However, clearly a lot of work will be necessary to clear the debris from this winter’s ice-storm. A word of caution though, do have good footwear and look where you are treading. A misfortunate stumble over a tree root has left me nursing a bruised and battered shin, which is now every colour on the spectrum of the rainbow. Having a freezer chock full of everything but ice, Saturday evening was spent with a variety of frozen bread and vegetables on my shin!!!

On the way back from seeing the waterfall, a short detour through the village of Bohinjska Bela proved fruitful as I happened upon a village festival taking place and was able to watch the parade, listen to the music and enjoy the merriment – as were it seems the entire village!

At this time of year there is a lot happening in and around the Bled/Radovljica area, to much for me to be able to list here, especially since one of the golden rules of blogging seems to be to ‘keep it concise’. Therefore, each week I will list just a few of the main highlights and some of my favourites events and attractions. However, for more details, and up-to-date information, take a look at my ‘Adele in Slovenia’ facebook page (‘Like’ it) and/or use the links on the right to the tourist office websites.

The inaugural Bled Film Festival will take place from 17th – 26th June. It will feature 8 films and 8 documentaries, which will then be judged for awards, all with a focus on raising awareness of environmental issues surrounding water. An accompanying programme of events, talks and parties will take place on the pristine shores of Lake Bled. More about the festival can be found here – http://www.bledff.com/

On Monday 23rd June, Midsummer’s Eve will be celebrated in the usual manner with a bonfire and medieval events at Kamen Castle in Begunje. The ruins of the gothic and renaissance castle, built in the 12th century by the Counts of Ortenburg, provide a magical setting for the celebration.

On Saturday 21st June its the annual Škofja Loka Festival of History. The event transforms the beautiful old town centre into a medieval wonderland for the day with locals dressed in traditional clothing, market stalls selling traditional crafts and wares, workshops and performances. More information can be found here – http://www.historial-skofjaloka.si/home.aspx

3Jun2014

The Slovenian Alps (Gorenjska) Guest Green Card

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

The area of Slovenia that I live in is called Gorenjska, otherwise known as the Slovenian Alps region, and, in my biased opinion, the most beautiful part of the country – although pretty much everywhere you go in Slovenia you are spoilt for choice with stunning views, unspoilt countryside, sprawling forests, tranquil valleys, rolling hills and mighty mountains, crystal-clear rivers and lakes, fairytale castles and more.

Visitors to the Gorenjska region, who stay at least one night at one of the participating accommodation providers, can take advantage of the free Gorenjska Guest Green Card which is a benefit card offering discounts on sights of interest, culinary delights, sports activities and other experiences in the region.

As an example, I’ve listed below just some of the places and experiences where discount is available, at some of the more popular tourist destinations, but there are also many more throughout the region including in Radovljica, Bled, Kranjska Gora, Bohinj, Kranj, Škofja Loka, Jesenice, Jezersko, Tržič and Žirovnica. More information can be found here – http://www.slovenian-alps.com/en/greencard/about

Lectar Inn and Gingerbread Museum, Radovlijca
The Radovljica Museum of Beekeeping, Guided Beekeeping tours
The Šivec House Gallery, Radovljica
The Iron-Forging Museum, Kropa
The Restaurant at Bled Castle
Bled Island
Bled Golf Course
The Castle Boathouse
Triglav National Park tours
The Bohinj Steam Train
The Tourist Train around Bled Lake
Škofja Loka Castle and Gallery

This past week has been very April-like with not a day passing by without a shower or two. I’ve been fairly snowed-under with work so haven’t been able to make as many trips out as I would have usually, but fortunately on Saturday afternoon, when I ventured up to Bled Castle to watch the annual ‘Medieval Days’ event, the sun was shining in all its glory and Bled lake was looking at its shimmering best. It is possible to drive up to the castle but I, naturally, chose to walk up – it’s not that far and the effort makes the views all the more rewarding.

The Medieval Days event is a coming-together of medieval groups, not only from Slovenia but also from other European countries, who come to participate in the battle re-enactments and be a part of the event. Visitors can mingle among the groups, talk to them, take a close up look at their costumes, weapons and armoury, browse the market stalls, watch the traditional craftsman at work and, as I did, generally enjoy the atmosphere and the far-reaching views across Bled, the Radovljica plains and the Karavanke range.

This week Radovljica is hosting an International Ceramics Festival (http://www.radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/mednarodni-festival-keramike-radovljica-2014/83/591/). Various events, exhibitions and workshops are taking place throughout the week with the main event ‘Market Day‘ taking place from 10am-6pm on Saturday 7th June. The old town centre and the Radovljica Manor will be abuzz with exhibitors and vendors of a wide array of ceramic products of all shapes and sizes, free workshops for children, music and entertainment, and food from the Taste Radol’ca restaurants. There will also be an opportunity to buy specially-made bowls and have them filled with a choice of the tasty food on offer – so you know where you’ll find me lurking – I so nearly managed a whole blog without the mention of food!

26May2014

Golica’s Daffodils / Cycling Bled to Bohinj

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

Golica is one of the most known peaks in the Karavanke range and is at its most popular during May when the daffofils which grow on its slopes are in full bloom.

If I crane my neck I can just about see Golica from my bedroom window so I had been looking daily to see whether the snow would melt quickly enough to coincide with the daffodils blooming. A few weeks ago the snow was beginning to melt but then a cold snap brought rain to the valley and snow at higher altitudes, meaning Golica was once again snow-capped. Now however, thanks to the glorious temperatures of the past week, the sunny side of Golica i.e. the Slovene side, is largely snow free and now is the perfect time to make the trip – be quick though, the daffodils on the lower slopes are already almost past their best, but up higher they are just coming into their peak bloom.

It’s always one of my favourite times of the year as the blossoming of the daffodils is a sure sign of the end of winter and the promise of the sunnier, warmer months to come.

There are a number of ways of reaching Golica. Among then, routes lead from the villages of Planina pod Golico, Javorniški rovt or from the Dom Pristava mountain hut. Always one to choose a circular route if it is possible, I usually opt for the route which leads past the Sava Caves (Savske jame) and upwards through pastures, before traversing the high ridge with stunning views of Slovenia on one side, and Austria on the other. After the final ascent to the highest point of Golica (1836m) a gully leads down to the mountain hut Koča na Golici (1582m), where drinks and traditional Slovene mountain food can be bought and enjoyed – with stunning views at no extra cost! From the hut, a path leads down through the forest, eventually returning to the start of the route. Note – there is also a more direct, steeper ‘winter’ path down through the forest which is, true to its name, steep, and involves a couple of sections of secured climbing.

Last Sunday saw the revival of a tradition dating back 80 years, whereby visitors from far and wide come to Radovljica by train (or otherwise) to the event entitled ‘By Train to Lectar for Goulash, Ritoznojčan and Rolls’ (Z vlakom k Lectarju na golaz in ritoznojčna – kot nekoc). After boarding the train, complete with entertainment and schnapps upon arrival in Radovljica, visitors were escorted on the short few minute walk from the train station into the medieval town centre where they were greeted by Lectar’s ever-jovial owner, Jože, live music, gallons of cauldron-cooked goulash and the ‘Ritoznojčan’ wine – transported by old-timer bus by vintners from the Ritoznoj hills in the Štajerska region of Slovenia. The event was a great success, well attended both by those visiting Radovljica and locals, some even went to the effort of dressing up in period clothing, and looks set to be another valuable addition to the ever expanding Radovljca Events Calendar. More photos of the event can be seen on Pinterest.

There has long been call for there to be a cycle path between the popular tourist destinations of Bled and Bohinj – alas it has never come to fruition and in truth, it is unlikely to do so, at least for the foreseeable future. Although it is possible to cycle between the two places, the road, particularly during the height of summer, is narrow and busy and although I have cycled it on several occasions, it’s really not suitable for family cycle trips. Those with mountain bikes and an acute sense of direction can make the long trip up over Jelovica – but the plateau is vast and it would be very easy to lose your bearings, so for visitors again isn’t advisable unless you are with a local and/or guide. The good news however is that in recognition of this need, the Bled-Bohinj Cycle Day was started last year and its intended it will now be an annual event. This year the event will be held on Saturday 31st May, beginning at 8am when groups of cyclists will set off towards Bohinjska Bela and cycle beside the Sava river to Nomenj. Sections of the road will be closed at 11am to ensure the safe passage of cyclists to Ribčev Laz and Bohinj Lake. At 1pm the event will end at the Senožeta Sports Centre in Srednja vas, where cyclists will be rewarded with refreshments. The recommended return route is by bike to Bohinjska Bistrica then by train to return to Bled. Weather permitting, it promises to be great day out for all the family. Prior registration is required and more information can be found here – http://www.bled.si/si/dogodki/2014/05/31/1324-Kolesarski-dan-Bled-Bohinj

This past week was also marked by a minor celebration on the achievement of my blog receiving its 20,000 reader – something which is all the more astonishing since it means that in the first 5 months of 2014, there have been as many readers as in the whole of 2013. To date, readers have come from over 90 countries. To say I’m delighted is an understatement and I hope the trend will continue. Thanks to all of you for finding and reading my blog and for all the lovely feedback and messages I have received – which help to make the effort worthwhile. Long may it continue!

Adele in Slovenia

My life and adventures in Radovljica and throughout Slovenia

Tag Archives: Slovenia

Slovenia – A Land of Dreams?

A super ‘sweet’ week ahead!

Zelenci Pools, Ljubelj Pass, and ‘Forever Young’!

The Sextons’ Museum House / Bled Days and Nights

Triglav National Park Information / Garden Village, Bled

Taste Radol’ca – The Pr’Kovač Inn, Kropa

At the top of the Karavanke / ‘Kremšnita’ cream cake in Bled

The Grmečica Waterfall

The Slovenian Alps (Gorenjska) Guest Green Card

Golica’s Daffodils / Cycling Bled to Bohinj