Tag Archives: Kropa

Slovenian Culture – Radol’ca-style!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Beekeeping in Slovenia, Begunje, France Prešeren, ifeelsLOVEnia, Museum of Apiculture Radovljica, museums in Slovenia, Prešernova hiša, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian culture, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca, Visit Žirovnica, Vrba, Žirovnica by

Slovenia takes its culture seriously, and this is most visible every year on 8th February when the country celebrates Prešeren Day – a national cultural holiday – dedicated to its most treasured poet, France Prešeren.

Various events take place throughout the country, the largest of which are in Kranj and Vrba. The former is nowadays known as Prešeren’s Town, while the latter was his birthplace.

In Vrba, which is in close proximity to Radovljica, every year on 8th February people flock from around the country to take part in a 10-kilometre walk along the Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Trail. The trail begins at Prešeren’s birth house …

May be an image of 6 people and text

…then continues via fields and country paths to the birth houses of Žirovnica’s other famous men as well as Anton Janša’s apiary.

The Prešernov smenj fair in Kranj also attracts huge crowds. The event is dedicated to all-things from Prešeren’s time; music, dance, clothing, food …

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Throughout the country all museums offer free admission on 8th February to enable everyone to be part of Prešeren Day.

The Radol’ca area has more than its fair share of museums; 12 to be precise (excluding galleries):

Museum of Apiculture, Radovljica

Municipal Museum, Radovljica

Pharmacy and Alchemy Museum, Radovljica

Lectar Workshop and Museum, Radovljica

Iron Forging Museum, Kropa

Fovsaritnica Museum House, Kropa

Sextons’ Museum House, Kamna Gorica

Museum of Hostages, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Elan Alpine Ski Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Avsenik Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Ethnological Museum, Mošnje

Nativity Museum, Brezje

While deciding what to do this year on 8th February, I realised that I had been to all the above museums, except one – the Municipal Museum. So, it was time to tick that one off the list too!

The museum is dedicated to Radovljica’s most well known (former) resident – Anton Tomaž Linhart: The 18th century was a time of great change in Europe. One of the central characters in the then Carniola was Anton Tomaž Linhart from Radovljica, the father of Slovenian theatre and scientific historiography.

The museum is located on the first floor of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

If I’m honest, it had probably never occurred to me to visit the museum as I thought that since it’s all dedicated to one person, there is only so much you can hear and see about that person. But, I stand corrected! Though the content is indeed dedicated to Anton Tomaž Linhart, it is also an opportunity to find out about life, clothing and customs in the eighteenth century.

And to have a bit of fun dressing up too!

Upon prior arrangement, guided tours are available in Slovene, German and English.

Our national day of culture may be over for this year, but there are hundreds of (other) museums throughout Slovenia to explore throughout the year.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Hidden Treasures in Kropa!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Jelovica, Kropa, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

A visit to the Radol’ca area isn’t complete without a visit to the Lipnica valley, home to, among others, the former ironworking villages of Kropa and Kamna Gorica.

The former – the larger of the two and formerly the most active – is home to the Iron Forging Museum and a wealth of technical heritage.

Even after living in Radovljica for nearly 17 years (gosh, how time flies!), there are still things to be seen, places to be discovered and people to meet … providing you have a curious mind, of course.

And so it was that last week I discovered an exhibition that I didn’t know existed. The Mozaic Exhibition Gallery, which is tucked away in a house among Kropa’s narrow streets.

It’s a bit higgledy-piggledy and the exhibits aren’t displayed as one would expect in a gallery, but perhaps that’s what makes it all the more interesting, as it’s a real labour of love for the owners Stane Pavlovič and his wife, Bojana.

It’s fun trying to identify well-known buildings and people. Can you see anyone, or anything, you recognise?

Everywhere you look something catches your eye.

In addition to making mosaics, the couple also have an extensive library and even a greenhouse attached to the rear of the house. Who would have thought that cacti can be found growing in Kropa of all places, which during winter barely sees the sun?

Entrance to the exhibition is free of charge, though voluntary contributions are, of course, always welcome. To arrange a visit contact Stane on 040 349 472 or send an email to stane.pavlovic@gmail.com

While in Kropa, in addition to the aforementioned Iron Forging Museum and Mozaic Exhibition Gallery, you can also visit (upon prior arrangement) the Fovšaritnica Museum House and the Vigenjc vice nail forge, or hike up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture on the Jelovica plateau, where you can enjoy some typical mountain food at the Partisanski dom mountain hut.

We had the first snowfall of the year in the valley last week, so I’ll leave you with a ‘snowy’ picture I took on a bitterly cold morning earlier this week. Today, thankfully, it’s been almost spring-like.

May be an image of ski slope

© Adele in Slovenia 

 

 

 

 

Wild Weather and Scrumptious (gluten-free) Štruklji!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, gluten-free food in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Jelovica, Julian Alps, kamna gorica, Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Karavanke, Kropa, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian food, Slovenian mountain huts, The Julian Alps, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

While much of Europe is basking, or rather sweltering, in record-high temperatures, this ‘summer’ here in Slovenia has, so far, been marked by some mega storms, the likes of which have never been seen at this time of year, if ever.

The extreme hail and gale-force winds have wreaked havoc throughout the country, and there’s more predicted for later this week too. So, everyone is waiting and praying that there isn’t a repeat of last week, which brought significant damage to cars, roofs, crops, houses and more.

Toča po neurju v Krškem

On a more positive note, here in the Gorenjska region, i.e. the mountainous region of Slovenia, temperatures tend not to get as high as at the coast and the southeast part of the country. And even if they do, you are never far from a forest to take shelter in, a mountain to climb for some cooler air, or a pool or lake to jump into to cool off.

Here in Radovljica, we are lucky to have the Karavanke range and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps to the north, the Jelovica plateau to the south, and the Julian Alps on the doorstep, the only problem is, with so much choice, it can be hard to decide where to go!

Radovljiška ravnina

Last Wednesday, however, the decision was easy, as I had found out that the lady who runs the mountain hut on the Vodiška planina mountain pasture makes gluten-free štruklji, a real rarity indeed, in fact, quite possibly the only mountain hut that offers them.

It’s actually quite difficult to describe what štruklji are, other than to say they are made using a light dough mixture that is rolled out very thinly then filled and rolled, like a Swiss roll, before being steamed or boiled. The fillings can be sweet or savoury, depending on how creative and adventurous you want to be!

Photo: štruklji at Gostisce Draga in the Draga Valley

I can count on one hand how many times I’ve eaten them since being diagnosed with coeliac disease, so to find gluten-free ones, and so close to home – relatively speaking – is a real treat.

Below I’ve described the route I took up to the hut, which begins in Kropa, but there are also numerous other routes up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, including from the village of Kamna Gorica.

The most direct, albeit steepest, trail begins at St. Leonard’s church – one of two churches in the village.

The trail leads steeply up through the forest, with not much let up in terms of steepness until about the halfway point, which is the meeting point of paths that the lead up from other parts of Kropa.

It takes about half an hour to reach the halfway point, then within another half an hour or so, you emerge onto the mountain pasture.

The pasture is also a meeting point of numerous trails, so you can easily extend your hike in numerous directions.

But this time, we were there for the food! Those with coeliac disease, or those of you who know someone with it, will know that cross-contamination is a big deal (read: ‘problem’), something that so often places that claim to offer gluten-free food don’t take into account. However, as soon as I contacted the lady who runs the hut, her reply was such that I knew immediately that she knew about coeliac disease, so I had no hesitation in ordering them upon my arrival.

And I certainly wasn’t disappointed! I think my smile says it all!

In addition, because flour isn’t used to thicken any of the soups or stews, we ordered jota – a traditional Slovenian cabbage and bean stew, which you can order with or without Carniolan sausage.

Visit Radol’ca recently published a blog on its own website about what food is available at mountain huts in the surrounding area; in fact, it was whilst translating the blog that I discovered that gluten-free štruklji were available! Click here to read more and Dober tek (Enjoy your meal!) as we say here!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

A New Old Walk in the Lipnica Valley

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Beekeeping in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, kamna gorica, Kropa, Lipnica Valley, Museum of Apiculture Radovljica, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia, Slovenia blog, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

Until recently, Peter’s Trail in Kamna Gorica was only known to locals and had been somewhat retaken by nature. However, this short trail in the Lipnica valley has been reestablished, together with added footbridges, wooden railings and information boards (in English only).

The trail is a tribute to Peter Novak (1846-1910), a former Latin language lecturer at the University of Vienna, who was born in Kamna Gorica. Following his retirement, Peter returned to his native village, where he built and repaired many old paths in the vicinity of his birth village.

The trail begins at the Gostilna Mlin restaurant in Kamna Gorica, which at the time of writing is closed, where there is a small parking area in front of the sign for the restaurant, as seen below.

Gostilna Mlin, Julijske Alpe - Sloveniaholidays.com

The first sign marking the trail is a little further ahead, so initially walk for around 150 metres across the grass away from the restaurant, ensuring the small brook is on your right, until you reach the first sign.

From here the path is obvious as it winds its way through the forest alongside the Lipnica river.

After a short while you reach a wooden hut, as seen below…

…before reentering the forest to rejoin the trail. After a short distance you once again leave the forest and come to a bridge over the Lipnica river.

Don’t cross the bridge but instead go up to your left where you will see a beautiful, typical Slovenian apiary.

At the time of my visit in early March, the bees were already really active for the time of year. Btw, if you’d like to find out more about Slovenian beekeeping and see an exhibit of some of the oldest known apiary painted frontal boards, be sure to visit the Museum of Apiculture in Radovljica.

Follow the path that leads up to the right behind the apiary, which then emerges onto a road. Here you could just follow the road down to the crossroads and return to Kamna Gorica on the pavement, or see below for a slightly longer walk.

Turn left and walk a few minutes uphill on the road until you reach a clearing where you can see a small cluster of houses that make up the hamlet of Zgornja Dobrava.

Facing the above sign you will see a path behind you to the right. Follow this path, cross the road and then rejoin the trail leading downhill, adjacent to the road.

The path emerges from the forest into the playground of the Lipnica primary school, where you should immediately turn right and follow the trail, this time with the forest on your right.

You pass a house, and, if you’re lucky as we were, a very contented cat!

You will now reach the bridge you saw, but didn’t cross, earlier and can choose to either return on Peter’s Trail or turn left to reach the pavement, which you follow back to the village past a large pond.

Take time to explore the village of Kamna Gorica itself, where you can walk up to St. Trinity’s church for a lovely view over the village, visit the Sextons’ Museum House and admire the waterways that have earnt the village the name ‘Mini Venice’.

If you’d like a longer walk, it’s easy to extend the route by visiting one, or more, of the surrounding villages, notably Kropa, with its wealth of iron forging heritage.

Now is the perfect time for such a walk, as nature is emerging from its winter slumber and colour is returning to the valley.

Finally, the Radovljica Chocolate Festival is fast approaching, so make a note of the date for what will be the 10th anniversary of the ever-popular festival of chocolate and fun.

© Adele in Slovenia

What’s New and What to Do This Summer in Radol’ca

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, cycling, cycling in Slovenia, Hop-on Hop-On Bus, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Jelovica, Kropa, Okusi Radol'ce, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Taste Radol'ca, Tourism Radol'ca by

It’s hot! Hooray!!! While those that aren’t lovers of the heat are already complaining, I’m in my element at this time of year when I get get out on my bike and in the hills and mountains, and when one doesn’t need to go out dress in multiple layers of clothing!

The tourist season seems to have started much earlier this year here in Radol’ca and elsewhere in Slovenia, no doubt such is the yearning among many for holidays after the long COVID-19 pandemic.

So, with that in mind, this blog contains a rundown of new features and events in Radol’ca this summer, as well as some of the great, existing, traditional events too! As you will see, there’s certainly plenty to choose from and something to suit all the family.

Thursdays in the Square

Thursdays in the Square are back this year with a series of concerts featuring a variety of music. The concerts take place every Thursday evening in July in the old town centre of Radovljica. The first concert will feature Slovenian hit songs performed by young musicians from the surroundings of Radovljica, followed on 14th July by the Argentian-Italian group SuRrealistas. The third Thursday in July Čedahuci will perform followed by Masharik on the last Thursday in the month. Taste Radol’ca street food will be available at all the Thursday evening concerts and, prior to that, visitors will have a chance to purchase arts and crafts from stalls of the ARTish festival.

Guided independent cycling and cycling-culinary tours

Why not set off on a culinary-cycling tour of the Radol’ca area? Guided e-Bike tours are available or just hire a bike (or bring your own), pick up a map from the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre, and set off on your way.

Cycling is an ideal way to get some outdoor exercise, enjoy the fresh air and see and taste the countryside. Along the way you can stop off at the Pr’Šlibar farm, where you can buy fresh strawberries, strawberry jam, juice and cordial as well as dried meats, and the Dolenc Farm where you can taste and buy some of the home-produced dairy products.

You can then cycle on to the lush Draga Valley, home to the Gostišče Draga restaurant. At the entrance to the valley you can stop and take a look at the magnificent ruins of Kamen Castle.

This year Gostišče Draga, which is part of Taste Radol’ca, was once again visited by Slovenia’s top food critics, who awarded it two hearts, thus confirming its place as one of the best in the Radol’ca area. The restaurant with rooms is also the holder of the Green Key in Green Cuisine sign as a result of its efforts to operate sustainably.

The Draga Valley is also home to the parkour archery course, which I can highly recommend.

Free guided tours

Special free guided tours of Radovljica, Kropa, Mošnje, Kamna Gorica and Kamen Castle will be held throughout July and August.

In addition to guided tours, from Mondays to Saturdays throughout July and August, half day Hop On and Discover bus tours, run in cooperation with the neighbouring destinations of Tržič, Jesenice and Bled, offer the opportunity to explore more of Radol’ca and the surroundings. The bus trips are free of charge for holders of a Julian Alps: Radovljica benefits card (see below).

Julian Alps: Radovljica benefits card

Discount cards are available free of charge for those staying in partner accommodation in the Radol’ca area for a minimum of three nights. The card is issued by accommodation providers and can be used to take advantage of numerous discounts and other special offers for activities in Radol’ca and the neighbouring destinations.

Iron Forging Festival

The village of Kropa sits nested into the far eastern edge of the Jelovica plateau and is crammed with interesting architecture and preserved technical heritage, which is showcased during the annual Iron Forging Festival. This year’s festival takes place on Saturday 2nd July.

The festival features demonstrations of hand forging of nails in the vigenjc Vice forge, a small local market, open days at the Iron Forging Museum and the Fovšaritnica Museum House, as well as at the headquarters of the company UKO Kropa, which specialises in all manner of wrought iron furnishings and fittings and is keeping the village’s iron-forging tradition alive.

Avsenik Festival

The hugely popular Avsenik Festival attracts lovers of Slovenian folk music from far and wide. This year’s festival takes place over three days from 26th to 28th August.

In addition to the above, there are also other events, such as the annual Radovljica Early Music Festival, Medieval Day and open-air cinema, as well as plentiful water sports, theme and hiking trails and more! Click here to get the full list of summer events.

As you can see, whether your a culture vulture or an adrenalin junkie, there’s something for everyone this summer in Radol’ca!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Winter Hikes and Spikes in Radol’ca!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Begunje, Hiking, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, Julian Alps, Karavanke, Karavanke mountains, Kropa, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian mountain huts, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca, winter hiking in Radovljica by

At last, I’ve found time to sit down and write my first blog of the year 2022! It’s been a funny old winter so far. First a lot of early snow in December, followed by a very cold spell, then an unseasonably mild spell, followed by rain, a bit more snow and now another really cold spell, albeit now at least with beautiful blue skies and sunshine.

Although I’ve never been a fan of the cold and snow, I’m also not one to sit indoors, regardless of the weather (and my ongoing health woes). So, here are a few ideas for winter hikes in the Radol’ca, oh, and read on to find out about the ‘spikes’ (as mentioned in the title) too!

One of our favourite hikes at this time of the year is to Smokuški vrh above the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem. Since we like doing circular routes and prefer to leave the car in the garage, when we have time we often set off on foot from Radovljica to Begunje (cca. 50 minutes), where we take the path that begins near the post office and leads steeply up to St. Peter’s church (cca. 30mins).

From the church, we carry on up to Smokuški vrh on the ridge, which is a great vantage point.

We then walk along the ridge, with stunning views of the Julian Alps and Slovenia’s highest mountain – Triglav – before descending towards the village of Rodine and back through Hraše and Lesce to Radovljica.

Now onto the ‘spikes’ I mentioned above…As also mentioned above, it’s been a mixed bag this winter, which means that although some places at lower altitudes are now almost snow-free (up to around 800metres above sea-level), in the forest, particularly in areas that don’t get any/much sun and paths that are well used, the paths are really icy in places, hence ‘spikes’ i.e. mini crampons, are a ‘must’ in my rucksack wherever I go.

So, if you are planning any hikes in winter, I’d advise you bring (or buy while you are here) a pair of these mini crampons – you can pick them up for around €30, they are very lightweight and quick and easy to put on. Note, however, that these crampons are NOT suitable for more strenuous and higher mountain tours, for which semi-automatic crampons are a must at this time of the year.

And what’s more, the ones I’m ‘modelling’ below, are even made here in the municipality of Radovljica – at the Veriga factory in Lesce, where you can buy them direct of pick them up in sports shops.

My other favourite places to hike in the Radovljica area in winter include the Goška ravan mountain pasture and hut on the Jelovica plateau…

The Roblekov dom mountain hut, above the Draga valley on the slopes of Mt. Begunščica…

And the Vodiška planina mountain pasture and Partisanski dom mountain hut above Kropa.

You can find out about all these hikes and more about winter in Radovljica, visit the Visit Radol’ca website. Happy and, of course, safe hiking!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Rock to the Rhythm of Summer in Radol’ca!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Avsenik, Begunje, COVID-19 Slovenia, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Kropa, museums in Slovenia, Okusi Radol'ce, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Radovljica Chocolate Festival, Slovenia blog, Taste Radol'ca, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

After almost a year-and-a-half of preventative measures of varying degrees, Radol’ca’s summer events calendar kicks off in style this week, with almost a year-and-a-half’s worth of events in just one week!

The first event, and one that many have been waiting (im)patiently for, is the Queen Real Tribute Band, who were lined up to perform at the 2020 Radovljica Chocolate Festival, and who were also on standby for this year’s festival – both of which were cancelled, though a somewhat smaller festival is scheduled for 11th and 12th September this year – and will now finally be on stage this Thursday 1st July in the first of a series of Thursday evening concerts throughout July. The evening is due to start at 8pm with a Taste Radol’ca culinary market in the Radovljica park, which is open to all, followed by the band at 9pm (ticketed event).

May be an image of 1 person, playing a musical instrument, standing, guitar and indoor

Those more interested in traditional Slovenian folk music can head for nearby Begunje na Gorenjskem where live music evenings have now resumed at Gostilna Avsenik (ticketed events) – the home of Slovenian folk music – with the Avsenik House Ensemble and other guest Slovenian folk music ensembles.

Fotografija: Ansambel Saša Avsenika začenja novo poglavje.

During this current heatwave, for many a cold beer is bound to hit the spot, so the Radovljica Craft Beer Festival, which takes place on Saturday 3rd July from 12noon onwards, is the place to be. The festival will be held in the Radovljica park and feature a food market with Slovenian craft beers and Taste Radol’ca food.

May be an image of drink and text
Okusi Piva Radovljica

The Kropa Iron Forging Festival takes place on the same day, Saturday 3rd July. So, be sure to plan the day well and, in fact, why not head for Kropa first then stop off at Radovljica on the way back, but remember: Don’t drink and drive!

The festival will run from 10am to 6pm and includes free entrance to the Iron Forging Museum throughout the day, a reenactment of the life of Kropa’s blacksmiths with the Cofta Drama Group at 12noon in the Vigenjc Vice forge, a small craft market, open day at the UKO wrought iron factory, a demonstration of smelting iron ore, and more.

Also on the same day – yes, there’s more! – the regular monthly Vila Podvin farmers market takes place in the garden of Vila Podvin (one Michelin Star) from 10am to 12noon, where you can meet local producers and suppliers, and sample and buy their products.

May be an image of 1 person, standing and outdoors

Once you have recovered from all of the above, there are plenty of other events coming up through the month of July. Check out the events calendar for more details.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking for somewhere (else) to ‘chill’, the Radovljica swimming pool is the ideal place to cool off at this time of year. I took this snap of it looking glorious in the sunshine earlier today from Obla gorica, the small hill behind the pool.

Note: many of the events are still subject to social distancing measures and are now ticketed, so be sure to check out the Visit Radol’ca website for the latest information.

© Adele in Slovenia

A Cultural Walk Through Radovljica

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, COVID-19 Slovenia, history of Slovenia, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Kropa, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian culture, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

Radovljica is undoubtedly best known for its small but beautiful historic old town, which is packed with cultural attractions and is where all the town’s main events take place. However, you might be surprised to learn that there are also some cultural sights elsewhere in the town, which you can see by taking a cultural walk around the town.

A good place to start is at the town library – the new multi-storey red building in Vurnik Square (Vurnikov trg) – which is just a few hundred metres from the main bus station, where in front of the library you can see a model replica of Linhart Square created by the local ceramist Urban Magušar.

From the library take the slip road (with the library to your right head in a westerly direction) to reach the junction with the Gorenjska cesta road and turn left onto the pavement on the left-hand side of the road. After cca. 100 metres you will see the Obrtna Zbornica building (Small Business Chamber) with an iron monument of Radovljica’s coat of arms with a man holding a wheel in one hand and the ‘town’ in the other.

A further 100 metres or so along the road is the Čebelica (Bee) building, which today serves as the town’s municipal administration unit. It was named after the decorative bees above the entrance.

There are also several art nouveau villas along Gorenjska cesta that are the work of the architect Danilo Fürst, a pupil of the well-known Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik. 

Your path will now lead you towards the old town, which you can reach by walking through the town park, past the unique wrought iron street lamps made by blacksmiths from Kropa, and on to see the numerous attractions in Linhart Square, from where you can also take a quick diversion to see the birthhouse of the Radovljica-born architect Ivan Vurnik.

Should you wish to extend your walk and take in a bit more history you could walk up to Obla gorica – the small hill that rises up behind the swimming pool – where you can see bunkers dating from the Rupnik Line – a system of fortifications that were built during the 1930’s by the Kingdom of Yugoslavia as a defence line on the border with the Kingdom of Italy. The strategically placed forts and bunkers were never actually used for military or defence purposes, but they at least brought residents a temporary solution to the unemployment and financial troubles which affected them due to the location of the Rapallo Border. It is said there are around 50 such bunkers located across the Jelovica plateau, Radovljica and Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Click here for full details and a map of the cultural walk.

To end, I’ll give you a brief update about the current coronavirus situation in Slovenia. Following a long (very long!) lockdown that began on 23rd October, finally this week all primary school children were able to return to school, albeit there are school holidays in one half of the country this week and in the other half next week. We are now finally allowed out of our municipalities, and all shops were able to re-open as of this Monday (though all staff have to be tested on a weekly basis). Much as I love Radovljica, after almost 4 months of not being able to leave, it’s certainly nice to have regained a sense of freedom. However, we are far from out of the woods yet; daily infection numbers are still high, though falling, and the vaccination rate seems to be agonisingly slow. All hotels/cafes/restaurants etc. are still closed, though museums and galleries are now open. Tourists are not allowed to cross the border, and only those with a valid reason are allowed to cross the border (with a negative test). So, there is some light at the end of the tunnel, but there’s still some way to get there yet. I’m sure many of you can’t wait to visit, and/or revisit, so hang on in there!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Winter Hikes on the Jelovica Plateau

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, COVID-19 Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, kamna gorica, Karavanke, Kropa, Lipnica Valley, Radovljica, Slovenia, Slovenia blog, Slovenian mountain huts, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca, winter hiking in Radovljica, winter hiking in Slovenia, winter sports in Slovenia by

So, in addition to the ongoing (and boy is it going on…) coronavirus situation, in this part of Slovenia we have already had the highest snowfall in 43 years – and winter is far from over. I, for one, hope it’s also the last time for the next 43 years!

Regular readers of my blog will know I’m not a fan of snow, so this is by far, already, the hardest winter for me since moving here in 2007, and with the restrictions in place due to ‘the’ virus, there’s nowhere to escape, and no way of escaping, snow, so one just has to put on a brave face and plenty of winter clothing and get out there and ’embrace’ it.

Yesterday was the first day for around a month that it was due to be sunny, albeit it bitterly cold, so it was finally time to head out for a long hike to get some photos for my blog. Due to the restrictions in place, as well as the snow, there’s not a huge choice of places to go where a) we are allowed to go, b) the risks of avalanche are minimal, c) there are no problems with parking and no crowds – the latter turned out to be a particularly good move as the headlines on the news on Saturday were about the major traffic problems in the most popular winter sports areas. Thus, the obvious choice for us was the Jelovica plateau, which is right on our doorstep and which we can reach on foot from home. In fact, we’ve grown to love the wide choice of routes on the plateau so much, they are now likely to become a staple among our local hikes, even when we are allowed to go further from home!

We started from home in Radovljica at 8.30am, first down to Lancovo and then onwards towards the hamlet of Kolnica in Spodnja Lipnica.

From there we continued up to the Suharna viewpoint above the Lipnica valley. You can also read more here about my first hike to Suharna earlier in the year, which, believe me, was a lot easier than trudging through the snow now!

It usually takes around an hour to reach the viewpoint but you always need to allow about half as much time again when walking in snow, and even more if the snow is knee (or thigh!) deep.

After hiking up through the forest you reach a road (yes, that really is a road you can ‘see’ below!), where the ‘path’ to Suharna continues to the left. The path is well marked throughout, provided the signs are visible beneath the snow, that is!

From the viewpoint there are far-reaching views across the Radovljica plains, the Karavanke mountains, the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and towards the Ljubljana basin.

Just don’t get too close to the edge as there is a sheer drop beneath that snow behind me!

We decided not to take a seat on the bench – can’t think why! – and instead returned to the intersection of paths and began our way, slowly, towards the Vodiška planina mountain pasture.

There are numerous paths that lead to the mountain pasture. This one proved to be a good option as we met few people along the way and it allowed us to do an entirely circular hike. Fortunately someone – though it looked like only one person – had already hiked that way that morning, so the trudge through the snow was at least somewhat easier.

From Suharna it would usually take around 1.15 hours to reach the Partizanski dom mountain hut on Vodiška planina but, again, it took us quite a bit longer due to the snow and we finally reached the mountain hut at just after 12.30pm, thus four hours after leaving home.

A flask of tea is an essential in winter, and even more so now when the huts are closed.

From the hut there are numerous paths the lead down towards Kropa. We took the one that leads towards the Stočje – the lower part of Kropa – which brings you out near the swimming pool.

The mountain pasture is only 1,108m and there’s over a metre of snow, whereas in the higher mountains there is over 3 metres of snow this year already. So, if you do plan any winter hiking, please do ensure you only choose familiar and/or well-trodden paths that are low risk in terms of avalanches and, of course, you need the full gamut of winter gear including gaiters, crampons, an ice axe (if going higher) and not forgetting a flask of tea!

From there we returned along the pavement to Kamna Gorica and from there we took the path that leads over the Fuxova brv footbridge back to Radovljica. The total hiking time from door-to-door was around 7 hours, and two pleasantly tired hikers certainly enjoyed their (gluten free!) pizzas once home!

You can read more ideas for winter hiking in my previous blog ‘5 Great Winter Hikes in Radovljica’

© Adele in Slovenia

Radovljica to Jamnik…the long way round!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, COVID-19 Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, kamna gorica, Kropa, Lipnica Valley, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian mountain huts, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

So, having done so well in the first round of COVID-19, unfortunately Slovenia is faring much less well second time around.

We are now back to a partial lockdown, and as of 19th October the Slovenian government officially (re)declared an epidemic and also introduced a curfew from 9pm to 6am. We are not allowed out of our region, bars and restaurants are closed, as are all non-essential shops (as of tomorrow), home schooling is in place for year 6 upwards, and masks must be worn outdoors too at all times, other than when doing individual sports such as cycling.

Hence, the best place to be by far – other than alone on your bike(!) – is in the forest and far from the madding crowd. So, that’s exactly where we headed last weekend; from Radovljica to Jamnik via Kamna Gorica, on foot all the way there and back!

There are several paths that lead up to Jamnik and its landmark church from Kropa, or you can drive (or cycle) up the windy road. If, however, you want to make a full day of it and you haven’t got transport, you could follow my lead and go the whole way on foot!

First head from the old town of Radovljica past the cemetery and down to the Sava river where you cross the Fux footbridge (Fuxova brv) and follow part of the Lipnica Castle Trail.

Instead of turning off the path towards Lipnica Castle, at the junction of paths with a shrine and an information board, as seen below, continue straight on towards Kamna Gorica.

You soon get your first glimpse of the Church of the Holy Trinity, which stands above the village.

Walk through the village then rejoin the road and walk on the pavement, with the stream to your left, until you reach a sign on the right, almost opposite the bus stop, for Vodiška planina (the Vodiška mountain pasture).

Walk up the tarmac road which soon becomes a forest trail. From here on the path is well marked with the usual red/white circles on trees.

Most of the trail runs through dense forest, so there isn’t much in the way of views, but when there is a gap between the trees it makes the effort worthwhile!

After around 1.5 hours of walking you reach the Vodiška planina mountain pasture and the Partisanski dom mountain hut (currently also shut due to the virus).

If you’d like a shorter version of this hike then you could now take one of the paths that lead directly down to Kropa. Should you wish to continue, then just keep following the signs to Jamnik.

And lookout for the viewpoint with a bench along the way!

…from there on its downhill all the way to Jamnik! We experienced almost four seasons in one day – sunny when we left Radovljica, a hailstorm on the way down towards Jamnik, then shrouded in fog when we got there. Oh well, you can’t have everything!

On a fine(r) day, it usually looks more like this and there are great panoramic views too!

Photo: http://www.radolca.si

So, despite everything, it’s still possible to enjoy the beauty of nature but, of course, do heed all the precautions and, above all, stay well and safe.

© Adele in Slovenia