Unlike the majority of Slovenia’s mountain huts, the Taborniški dom na Šiji mountain hut (translation: the Šija Scouts Hut) is privately run, and the difference is obvious from the moment you arrive.
The hut lies at an altitude of 1,528 metres under the ridge of Slovenia’s longest mountain. There are numerous mountain pastures beneath the Košuta ridge, where cattle graze in summer, and the Šija hut makes a great place to base yourself for a couple of days to hike the pastures or along the ridge. The hut is also ideal for small groups, clubs, school outings, etc.
Owners Simona and Miha pride themselves on the homely atmosphere and home-cooked traditional food. So, I went to check it out for myself and within minutes of arriving, we were chatting like long-lost friends!
And I soon made friends with Jerry the dog too!
The Šija mountain pasture can be reached from several directions; the easiest and most direct of which is from the village of Jelendol, from where you can either set off on foot (cca. 2 hours) or, if you don’t mind getting a dusty car (I do mind, hence I walked!), then you can take the mountain road.
Whether on foot or by car, continue on the mountain road to the sign as seen in the photo below, from where it takes approx. 45 minutes to reach the hut on foot.
The čez frata (translation: through a clearing) path leads up to reach the Ilovica mountain pasture from where its just a 5 minute walk to reach the Taborniški dom.
Note: the path is well marked, however, when you reach the gate at the top of the pasture there isn’t a sign and it’s not immediately obvious whether to turn left or right; turn right and you reach the hut in around 5 minutes.
After a good old chinwag, I was shown to my room for the night. The hut has 4 bedrooms with a total of 34 beds, and a separate 6-bedded room. It has an indoor toilet (always a bonus when staying in the mountains!) and electricity.
I left it to my hosts to choose what to serve for dinner – albeit with strict instructions that it had to be gluten-free. And they didn’t disappoint with jota (a thick cabbage, potato and Carniolan sausage soup) and bržola, a traditional Tržič lamb stew, which these days is getting harder to find, hence Miha and Simona are keen to try to preserve its presence in the Tržič area.
But the best was still to come. The house special dessert – buckwheat omelette with forest fruits – which was seriously scrummy and, even better, is naturally gluten-free too! Well worth the hike! The only problem is I want another one, or two…!
I was fortunate that the weather was glorious, both on the evening that I arrived and the next morning. What a view to wake up to!
And not a bad view for breakfast either!
Speaking of breakfast, you can opt for a more simple continental-style breakfast, or opt to try some traditional specialities such as masunek (a mixture of flour, eggs, salt, butter) and/or buckwheat žganci (buckwheat flour cooked to a porridge-like consistency topped with pork crackling), all served with a mug of kislo mleko (sour milk).
You can visit the Taborniški dom website here (currently in Slovene only, but expect an English version soon), and the Facebook page here.
There are numerous onward hikes from the Šija mountain pasture, either along the mountain pastures or traversing the peaks of Slovenia’s longest mountain. It was sad to bid farewell so soon, but I was equally looking forward to day two of my adventure. Keep reading and following my blog to find out about my ridge hike – more coming soon!
© Adele in Slovenia
Adele in Slovenia 
Rodica and Crna Prst to come, I presume!
I’m afraid not, well that’s not to say I won’t be hiking there at some point in the next few months, but when I do, unfortunately I won’t be blogging about it for tourism Bohinj. I’ve given up with them. It took a lot of effort last year to arrange a meeting and start working with them. They said they wanted to continue this year, however, I’ve sent so many emails, and even called the director, but, despite their promises, I’ve now given up as they obviously don’t appreciate the value of my blog enough to find half-an-hour to sit down for a meeting and agree the way forward.
In addition, I refuse to go anywhere near Bled during July and August as I can’t bear the crowds and lengthy traffic jams, and to get to Bohinj one has to go via Bled (or via Pokljuka but that’s a long way round!). Therefore I prefer hiking in the Bohinj area in May, September, October etc.
So, for the time being, you will have to make do with pictures and reports about hiking in the Karavanke, which, by the way – in my opinion – are just as scenic and varied, and, especially during summer, without the crowds of the Julian Alps, so a win-win all-round for me!
Klemen Langus? I believe there was a day recently at Bohinj(Ukanc) and Mangart when traffic was prohibited. I totally agree about giving Bled, and sadly Bohinj, a swerve during the summer. It isn’t only the traffic that irritates but also the behaviour of many tourists towards the local environment. The Karavanke range is not as well known to me so I look forward to your forthcoming efforts.
Yes, Langus! He is almost impossible to get hold off, and then, we you do, he promises things that don’t materialise. Disappointing indeed for someone in such a position. His side-kick was all enthusiastic, as she had long been wanting some additional marketing support in the form of a blog or similar, and we had already prepared a list of themes for blogs for this year, but, at the end of the day, he has the final word and, as I said, I’ve given up now. I already blog for Radovljica, Zirovnica and Trzic, and they appreciate my work, so that’s fine for now.
Yes, Bohinj is also sadly going the way of Bled. The parking charges have gone up massively in the past couple of years in both Bled and Bohinj, in an attempt to deter people from driving there and to take public transport instead (and so the municipality can rake in more money, of course!, but there will always be people willing to pay such charges to be able to park as close as possible.
It’s well worth checking out the Karavanke!
Interesting what you say about Mr. Langus. I once emailed him when Bohinj Tourism/Obcina made a considerable number of benches around the lake available for sponsorship, for I think €300 each. My interest never elicited a reply.
I feel that Bohinj, and the Triglav National Park authority are not too bothered if visitor numbers dropped off to a more manageable figure, although I actually believe the TNP would prefer the area to be rewilded – something I wouldn’t disagree with! That is my roundabout way of saying that they(Bohinj) might be concerned that your blog could stimulate further interest in the area which it cannot sustain. If so, that would in the end be a backhanded compliment but is of little consolation to you. October is definitely the best month to escape the heat, and crowds.
Regards.