Easter Traditions in Slovenia

With Easter just a few days away, I thought I’d write a blog on Easter traditions in Slovenia, covering everything from religious and secular celebrations to, of course, food and other traditions.

Easter is celebrated here in a number of ways. It begins on Palm Sunday when people can be seen flocking to churches around the country carrying bundles of branches and leaves, called butare, which are then blessed as part of a custom thought to date back as far as the 9th century.

Easter ‘butare’ bundles in front of the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians in Brezje. Photo: Visit Radol’ca

Žegnane – the blessing of food on Easter Saturday – takes places around the country in front of or in churches or, as seen below in Lancovo, near Radovljica, at shrines in smaller settlements. People take baskets of food, covered with embroidered cloths, to be blessed. However, this food cannot be eaten until Easter Sunday. Then, after a period of abstinence (by some), with a fast beginning on Ash Wednesday, food becomes a big deal as tables in homes around the country can be found bursting under the weight of potica, which is the star of the show, as well as baked ham, horseradish, eggs and more.

Potica is a traditional Slovenian sweet baked at Christmas and Easter holidays, and is arguably the most famous Slovenian dish. It could be said that no Slovenian holiday is truly complete without a slice of traditional potica. Apparently, there are over 80 different types of potica in Slovenia, yet in most shops and bakeries there are only the usual staple varieties, such as; walnut – by far the most commonly found – as well as poppy seed, tarragon, coconut, and potratna –  a layered ‘luxury’ potica, made with curd cheese, walnuts and layers of light and dark sponge.

Gluten-free potica is also now widely available, such as seen below, so no need for us coeliacs to miss out.

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Gluten-free walnut potica and coconut potica – Sladki butik Ines

Pirhi, another staple on tables at Easter, are coloured eggs, traditionally dyed using onion skins. Spring flowers or leaves are attached to the eggs during the dying process to produce the characteristic pattern.

The game of ‘fucanje‘ traditionally takes place at Easter. Players compete in a coin throwing contest, each aiming for their coin to land closest to the target. The winners then ‘takes all’!

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On Easter Sunday in the municipality of Radovljica ‘fucanje‘ takes place outside the cultural centre in the villages of Mošnje and also in Begunje na Gorenjskem behind the Pr’ Tavčar restaurant.

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Rolling eggs, or Easter egg hunts, are other traditional Easter games.

Lov na pirhe na Blejskem gradu - THE Slovenia

On Easter Sunday, a typical Easter feast in Slovenia usually looks something like this…

I can’t finish this blog without mentioning the retirement of Slovenia’s best ever ski jumper, Peter Prevec, who officially made his last competitive jumps at Planica last weekend.

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Peter’s records speak for themself, among them:

  • 203 FIS WC appearances
  • 51 FIS WC appearances
  • FIS WC victories
  • 15 wins in one season
  • Winner of the Crystal Globe 2015/2016
  • Winner of the Ski Flying Crystal Globe in 2013/14, 2014/15 and 2015/16
  • Silver and Bronze medal winner at the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014
  • Silver and bronze medalist at the Nordic World Ski Championships

Originally from the Poljane Valley, Peter now lives with his wife and two children in Radovljica. To show our gratitude and appreciation to him, the town is putting on a celebrate his exceptional sports career this Tuesday (i.e. tomorrow) at 5pm, to which everyone is invited, featuring live music with Saša Avsenik and the Lesce Wind Orchestra.

And finally, it’s less than a month until the Radovljica Chocolate Festival. This year’s festival will take place on Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st April and, as ever, will feature a chocolate-packed and entertainment-packed programme, so plan your visit now! Should you need any help planning your visit, contact the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre.

© Adele in Slovenia

Hidden Treasures in Kropa!

A visit to the Radol’ca area isn’t complete without a visit to the Lipnica valley, home to, among others, the former ironworking villages of Kropa and Kamna Gorica.

The former – the larger of the two and formerly the most active – is home to the Iron Forging Museum and a wealth of technical heritage.

Even after living in Radovljica for nearly 17 years (gosh, how time flies!), there are still things to be seen, places to be discovered and people to meet … providing you have a curious mind, of course.

And so it was that last week I discovered an exhibition that I didn’t know existed. The Mozaic Exhibition Gallery, which is tucked away in a house among Kropa’s narrow streets.

It’s a bit higgledy-piggledy and the exhibits aren’t displayed as one would expect in a gallery, but perhaps that’s what makes it all the more interesting, as it’s a real labour of love for the owners Stane Pavlovič and his wife, Bojana.

It’s fun trying to identify well-known buildings and people. Can you see anyone, or anything, you recognise?

Everywhere you look something catches your eye.

In addition to making mosaics, the couple also have an extensive library and even a greenhouse attached to the rear of the house. Who would have thought that cacti can be found growing in Kropa of all places, which during winter barely sees the sun?

Entrance to the exhibition is free of charge, though voluntary contributions are, of course, always welcome. To arrange a visit contact Stane on 040 349 472 or send an email to stane.pavlovic@gmail.com

While in Kropa, in addition to the aforementioned Iron Forging Museum and Mozaic Exhibition Gallery, you can also visit (upon prior arrangement) the Fovšaritnica Museum House and the Vigenjc vice nail forge, or hike up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture on the Jelovica plateau, where you can enjoy some typical mountain food at the Partisanski dom mountain hut.

We had the first snowfall of the year in the valley last week, so I’ll leave you with a ‘snowy’ picture I took on a bitterly cold morning earlier this week. Today, thankfully, it’s been almost spring-like.

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© Adele in Slovenia 

 

 

 

 

Hour Away – Who, What, Where and Why!

As regular readers of my blog will know, to date I haven’t allowed any of the ghastly pop-up ads to appear, even though they could be a potential source of income. Why? Because I hate them! They distract from the content and often lead to me immediately closing a website or blog, as I lose the will to live due to having to keep clicking various content to delete it in order to actual reach the important stuff.

You will be pleased to know that this hasn’t, and won’t, change. However, sometimes in life you meet someone whose story and philosophy matches so well with your own that you make an exception, of kinds! And that became the case when I met Nejc Peternelj, the owner of Hour Away, for a good old chinwag over a good old cuppa!

From now on you will see the Hour Away logo on my blog, but, I promise, no ads! Click on the logo to the right of this post ——> to discover the ‘who’ and the ‘what’ and read on to discover the ‘why’!

For a start, I love the company name. Why did he chose it? Simply because in Slovenia, nothing is more than an hour away! From the capital, Ljubljana, you can be swimming at the coast or hiking in the mountains within an hour, such is the beauty of a small country.

Secondly, Nejc shares my passion for Slovenia’s countryside, hills and mountains, particularly those that are less frequented by others. Why stand in a queue to reach the top of Mt. Triglav (as I did for an hour just 15 minutes from the summit on my first ascent!) when there are SO many other magnificent summits to reach, hills to climb and places to cycle.

Thirdly, his guided and self-guided hiking and cycling tours ensure you will see, taste and experience the REAL Slovenia, not just the places that large tourist agencies include in their itineraries. For example, the self-guided Ljubljana to Lake Bled on Hidden Hills Trail, which ensures you see and experience two of Slovenia’s main attractions and many of the hidden parts in between that the majority of tourists don’t see.

And finally, he’s a genuinely nice guy, and you can’t say that about everyone these days, who is passionate about what he does. Hence we hit it off straight away, sharing stories of our favourite hidden corners of Slovenia’s countryside, hills and mountains.

Nejc spends the winter running his own ski school in Davos, Switzerland, then returns to his beloved Slovenia to guide small group biking and hiking tours in summer. Click here to find out more about the Hour Away team.

So, I hope this insider tip will be of use, dear readers, consider it my Christmas gift to you!

Until next time, I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Wild Weather and Scrumptious (gluten-free) Štruklji!

While much of Europe is basking, or rather sweltering, in record-high temperatures, this ‘summer’ here in Slovenia has, so far, been marked by some mega storms, the likes of which have never been seen at this time of year, if ever.

The extreme hail and gale-force winds have wreaked havoc throughout the country, and there’s more predicted for later this week too. So, everyone is waiting and praying that there isn’t a repeat of last week, which brought significant damage to cars, roofs, crops, houses and more.

Toča po neurju v Krškem

On a more positive note, here in the Gorenjska region, i.e. the mountainous region of Slovenia, temperatures tend not to get as high as at the coast and the southeast part of the country. And even if they do, you are never far from a forest to take shelter in, a mountain to climb for some cooler air, or a pool or lake to jump into to cool off.

Here in Radovljica, we are lucky to have the Karavanke range and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps to the north, the Jelovica plateau to the south, and the Julian Alps on the doorstep, the only problem is, with so much choice, it can be hard to decide where to go!

Radovljiška ravnina

Last Wednesday, however, the decision was easy, as I had found out that the lady who runs the mountain hut on the Vodiška planina mountain pasture makes gluten-free štruklji, a real rarity indeed, in fact, quite possibly the only mountain hut that offers them.

It’s actually quite difficult to describe what štruklji are, other than to say they are made using a light dough mixture that is rolled out very thinly then filled and rolled, like a Swiss roll, before being steamed or boiled. The fillings can be sweet or savoury, depending on how creative and adventurous you want to be!

Photo: štruklji at Gostisce Draga in the Draga Valley

I can count on one hand how many times I’ve eaten them since being diagnosed with coeliac disease, so to find gluten-free ones, and so close to home – relatively speaking – is a real treat.

Below I’ve described the route I took up to the hut, which begins in Kropa, but there are also numerous other routes up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, including from the village of Kamna Gorica.

The most direct, albeit steepest, trail begins at St. Leonard’s church – one of two churches in the village.

The trail leads steeply up through the forest, with not much let up in terms of steepness until about the halfway point, which is the meeting point of paths that the lead up from other parts of Kropa.

It takes about half an hour to reach the halfway point, then within another half an hour or so, you emerge onto the mountain pasture.

The pasture is also a meeting point of numerous trails, so you can easily extend your hike in numerous directions.

But this time, we were there for the food! Those with coeliac disease, or those of you who know someone with it, will know that cross-contamination is a big deal (read: ‘problem’), something that so often places that claim to offer gluten-free food don’t take into account. However, as soon as I contacted the lady who runs the hut, her reply was such that I knew immediately that she knew about coeliac disease, so I had no hesitation in ordering them upon my arrival.

And I certainly wasn’t disappointed! I think my smile says it all!

In addition, because flour isn’t used to thicken any of the soups or stews, we ordered jota – a traditional Slovenian cabbage and bean stew, which you can order with or without Carniolan sausage.

Visit Radol’ca recently published a blog on its own website about what food is available at mountain huts in the surrounding area; in fact, it was whilst translating the blog that I discovered that gluten-free štruklji were available! Click here to read more and Dober tek (Enjoy your meal!) as we say here!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

Slovenian Beekeeping Placed on the UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage

First, the bad news… It has been wet and unseasonably cold for pretty much the whole of May so far, which is bad, or even catastrophic, news for Slovenia’s bees and beekeepers. The latter are keeping their fingers (and toes) crossed that conditions improve soon in order to salvage what they can from the grazing season.

Now, the good news. Slovenia’s application to be placed on the UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage has been accepted, a process in which the Museum of Apiculture in Radovljica played a large part, together with the Slovenian Beekeepers’ Association and the Slovenian Ethnographic Museum. To mark World Earth Day, on 22nd April, Radovljica played host to a special event to mark Slovenia’s entry onto the aforementioned UNESCO List. Among those in the photo below are the mayor of Radovljica, the president of the Slovenian Beekeeping Association, the director of Radovljica Municipal Museums, Slovenia’s Minister for Culture, the president of the Radovljica Beekeeping Society, and, of course, our many beekeepers!

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The following quote by Dr. Asta Vrečko, Slovenia’s Minister of Culture, sums up the significance of this achievement for Slovenian culture: “The inscription of beekeeping on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage is of exceptional significance for Slovenia and the world. At the time of climate change, bees and beekeeping must receive special attention, and traditional beekeeping, which is a way of life in harmony with nature, must be nurtured in particular. The beekeeping heritage has a long history that is intertwined with culture and amateur art. Today, urban apiaries also present an important segment of beekeeping.”

Beekeeping in Slovenia on the UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage | GOV.SI

Here’s some fascinating Slovenian bee facts and figures I came across while reading the Sunday paper, which, by the way, is published on a Wednesday!

  • There are over 11,000 beekeepers in Slovenia
  • Slovenian beekeepers have over 200,000 bee families
  • There are 30 registered breeders of queen bees in Slovenia, who breed around 40,000 queens per year
  • There are 206 beekeeping societies in Slovenia

There are numerous ways you can get acquainted with Slovenia’s bees and beekeepers in the Radovljica area.

Undoubtedly, Erik Luznar is Radovljica’s star beekeeper, in more ways than one! Not only is he one of the few beekeepers here who does it for a living, but he is also now a star in India too, thanks to one of the country’s most popular vloggers, Dhruv Rathee, who visited Erik and his bees to find out more. Over 2 million people have watched it!

In addition to the aforementioned Museum of Apiculture, which is a ‘must see’ when visiting Radovljica…

… the area is also home to the Beekeeping Education Centre of Gorenjska in Lesce, where you can get up close to a traditional Slovenian apiary, and sit back and enjoy watching the bees going about their business while enjoying a hot or cold drink.

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This month, the Radovljica Beekeeping Society celebrated its 140th anniversary at the Centre.

And finally, don’t miss the family ‘Follow a Bee Through Radovljica‘ adventure, which is ideal for the entire family.

I hoped I’ve provided you with more than enough reasons, and inspiration, to make sure you do something bee-related on your visit to Slovenia, after all: No Bees, No Life!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

A New Old Walk in the Lipnica Valley

Until recently, Peter’s Trail in Kamna Gorica was only known to locals and had been somewhat retaken by nature. However, this short trail in the Lipnica valley has been reestablished, together with added footbridges, wooden railings and information boards (in English only).

The trail is a tribute to Peter Novak (1846-1910), a former Latin language lecturer at the University of Vienna, who was born in Kamna Gorica. Following his retirement, Peter returned to his native village, where he built and repaired many old paths in the vicinity of his birth village.

The trail begins at the Gostilna Mlin restaurant in Kamna Gorica, which at the time of writing is closed, where there is a small parking area in front of the sign for the restaurant, as seen below.

Gostilna Mlin, Julijske Alpe - Sloveniaholidays.com

The first sign marking the trail is a little further ahead, so initially walk for around 150 metres across the grass away from the restaurant, ensuring the small brook is on your right, until you reach the first sign.

From here the path is obvious as it winds its way through the forest alongside the Lipnica river.

After a short while you reach a wooden hut, as seen below…

…before reentering the forest to rejoin the trail. After a short distance you once again leave the forest and come to a bridge over the Lipnica river.

Don’t cross the bridge but instead go up to your left where you will see a beautiful, typical Slovenian apiary.

At the time of my visit in early March, the bees were already really active for the time of year. Btw, if you’d like to find out more about Slovenian beekeeping and see an exhibit of some of the oldest known apiary painted frontal boards, be sure to visit the Museum of Apiculture in Radovljica.

Follow the path that leads up to the right behind the apiary, which then emerges onto a road. Here you could just follow the road down to the crossroads and return to Kamna Gorica on the pavement, or see below for a slightly longer walk.

Turn left and walk a few minutes uphill on the road until you reach a clearing where you can see a small cluster of houses that make up the hamlet of Zgornja Dobrava.

Facing the above sign you will see a path behind you to the right. Follow this path, cross the road and then rejoin the trail leading downhill, adjacent to the road.

The path emerges from the forest into the playground of the Lipnica primary school, where you should immediately turn right and follow the trail, this time with the forest on your right.

You pass a house, and, if you’re lucky as we were, a very contented cat!

You will now reach the bridge you saw, but didn’t cross, earlier and can choose to either return on Peter’s Trail or turn left to reach the pavement, which you follow back to the village past a large pond.

Take time to explore the village of Kamna Gorica itself, where you can walk up to St. Trinity’s church for a lovely view over the village, visit the Sextons’ Museum House and admire the waterways that have earnt the village the name ‘Mini Venice’.

If you’d like a longer walk, it’s easy to extend the route by visiting one, or more, of the surrounding villages, notably Kropa, with its wealth of iron forging heritage.

Now is the perfect time for such a walk, as nature is emerging from its winter slumber and colour is returning to the valley.

Finally, the Radovljica Chocolate Festival is fast approaching, so make a note of the date for what will be the 10th anniversary of the ever-popular festival of chocolate and fun.

© Adele in Slovenia

Taste Radol’ca Goes Beyond Borders!

During the height of the coronavirus-related lockdowns, here in Slovenia we weren’t allowed to leave the borders of our municipalities; something that we would never usually even consider in ‘normal’ times. Fortunately that’s a (fairly) distant memory now – and hopefully one never to be repeated – and now not only we (the people!) but also Taste Radol’ca can go beyond borders!

This year, in addition to the Taste Radol’ca restaurants from the Radol’ca area, there are also two others from neighbouring municipalities, one of which – Restavracija MANU – has already won numerous accolades in the short time it has been open.

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The annual highlight of the Radol’ca culinary year takes place next Friday 28th October – the opening Taste Radol’ca event and dinner prepared by all the talented chefs!

Morda je slika naslednjega: 5 oseb, ljudje stojijo in znotraj

The focus of this year’s Taste Radol’ca is sustainability and, as usual, there is an emphasis on locally produced and/or locally grown, i.e. no, or minimal, food miles and supporting local farmers and producers. The 3-course (or more) set menus remain at the same price as last year – 26 euros – which, considering the price rises all around us, remains excellent value for money.

This year’s participating restaurants are: Restavracija Tabor (Podbrezje), Restavracija Manu (Žirovnica), Gostišče Tulipan (Lesce), Gostilna Avguštin (Radovljica), Vila Podvin (Mošnje), Hiša Linhart (Radovljica), Gostišče Draga (Begunje na Gorenjskem), Šmeks-Baffi House of Pizza (Radovljica), Gostila Pr’Tavčar (Begunje na Gorenjskem).

Further proof of Radol’ca’s status as the ‘culinary capital of Gorenjska’ is the Michelin Star recently awarded to Uroš Štefelin, formerly from Vila Podvin, and his team at Hiša Linhart, as well as a Michelin green sustainability star.

This year’s opening event kicks off at 4pm with a farmers market, which offers visitors a chance to chat to, and buy from, the suppliers to Taste Radol’ca restaurants. Entrance is free, so come along and join in. The more the merrier!

At 5pm there is a presentation of Taste Radol’ca restaurants, with entertainment from pupils from Radovljica’s Anton Linhart primary school.

This year’s gourmet opening dinner will take place at Gostilna Avguštin in Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town. The restaurant is hugely popular due to it’s sunny terrace with views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and the Julian Alps.

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Reservations for the dinner, which costs 55 euros, are mandatory and can be made by contacting the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre.

Having just translated all the menus, I know you’re in for a treat, but I won’t let the cat out of the bag just yet. After all, there has to be some element of surprise in life!

© Adele in Slovenia

Be Cool and Keep Cool in Radol’ca!

With the current heatwave here and in much of Europe, no doubt many people’s thoughts are turning to how and where to keep cool. Well, in Slovenia it’s not that difficult really, since the country has so many forests and water sources.

Did you know that Slovenia has more than 60 rivers and streams, 300 artificial and natural lakes and 7,500 freshwater springs?

The confluence of the country’s longest river – the Sava – is in Radol’ca, more specifically in Lancovo, and in the country as a whole, you are never far away from a source of free, clean drinking water.

Photo: SDZV

In the Radol’ca area there are fountains with drinking water in various places, so all you need is a water bottle and you can fill up (free of charge!) along the way, whether on foot or by bike.

There are also several new rest areas, which are situated at road intersections and are the ideal for cyclists to stop for a drink, rest…

…and even a bit of (additional) exercise!

Perhaps you are wondering where to hike in this heat? Well, again, it’s not a problem, you just need to choose the right trails, i.e. ones that lead through the shade of the forest, and also make sure you set out early and have plenty of water with you.

My favourite ‘cool’ hike at this time of year, in fact I went there this morning, is the Shepherds’ Trail, which leads from the Draga valley up to the Preval mountain hut.

You can either return the same way on continue via the ‘čez Roza‘ trail towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Photo: J Gantar

If you want a shorter, easier walk, then the Sava River Trail runs partly through the cool of the forest, as do the Grabnarca Waterside Trail in the Lipnica valley, and the Lamberg Trail in Begunje na Gorenjskem.

If you’d prefer to be in, or on, the water in this heat, then there are plenty of opportunities to do that, too, in the Radol’ca area.

Although currently undergoing a complete renovation, work at the Radovljica swimming pool has temporarily stopped over the summer and the pool is open to visitors, and guests of the Šobec Camp have free access to the natural outdoor pool.

If you’d rather be on the water rather than in it, then rafting, canyoning, kayaking and other river-based activities are available on the Sava river and other nearby watercourses.

I, for one, am not moaning about the heat. Enjoy the heat while you can, I say, since winter is never far around the corner here in Gorenjska!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Rock to the Rhythm of Summer in Radol’ca!

After almost a year-and-a-half of preventative measures of varying degrees, Radol’ca’s summer events calendar kicks off in style this week, with almost a year-and-a-half’s worth of events in just one week!

The first event, and one that many have been waiting (im)patiently for, is the Queen Real Tribute Band, who were lined up to perform at the 2020 Radovljica Chocolate Festival, and who were also on standby for this year’s festival – both of which were cancelled, though a somewhat smaller festival is scheduled for 11th and 12th September this year – and will now finally be on stage this Thursday 1st July in the first of a series of Thursday evening concerts throughout July. The evening is due to start at 8pm with a Taste Radol’ca culinary market in the Radovljica park, which is open to all, followed by the band at 9pm (ticketed event).

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Those more interested in traditional Slovenian folk music can head for nearby Begunje na Gorenjskem where live music evenings have now resumed at Gostilna Avsenik (ticketed events) – the home of Slovenian folk music – with the Avsenik House Ensemble and other guest Slovenian folk music ensembles.

Fotografija: Ansambel Saša Avsenika začenja novo poglavje.

During this current heatwave, for many a cold beer is bound to hit the spot, so the Radovljica Craft Beer Festival, which takes place on Saturday 3rd July from 12noon onwards, is the place to be. The festival will be held in the Radovljica park and feature a food market with Slovenian craft beers and Taste Radol’ca food.

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Okusi Piva Radovljica

The Kropa Iron Forging Festival takes place on the same day, Saturday 3rd July. So, be sure to plan the day well and, in fact, why not head for Kropa first then stop off at Radovljica on the way back, but remember: Don’t drink and drive!

The festival will run from 10am to 6pm and includes free entrance to the Iron Forging Museum throughout the day, a reenactment of the life of Kropa’s blacksmiths with the Cofta Drama Group at 12noon in the Vigenjc Vice forge, a small craft market, open day at the UKO wrought iron factory, a demonstration of smelting iron ore, and more.

Also on the same day – yes, there’s more! – the regular monthly Vila Podvin farmers market takes place in the garden of Vila Podvin (one Michelin Star) from 10am to 12noon, where you can meet local producers and suppliers, and sample and buy their products.

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Once you have recovered from all of the above, there are plenty of other events coming up through the month of July. Check out the events calendar for more details.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking for somewhere (else) to ‘chill’, the Radovljica swimming pool is the ideal place to cool off at this time of year. I took this snap of it looking glorious in the sunshine earlier today from Obla gorica, the small hill behind the pool.

Note: many of the events are still subject to social distancing measures and are now ticketed, so be sure to check out the Visit Radol’ca website for the latest information.

© Adele in Slovenia