Klanc Castle – The Ruins of A Secret Gutenberg Stronghold

“Klanc Castle? What? Where? Never heard of it!”

That’s pretty much the response you will get from most Slovenes if you say you are going to visit Klanc Castle, which is also known as Glanz Castle and Novi Gutenberg. In fact, I’d put money on it that the majority, if not all, of those reading this blog – whether in Slovenia or elsewhere – won’t have heard of it.

So, let me enlighten you! Actually, it’s pretty much down to one man that I came to hear of it, and it’s thanks to him that the ruins of this hidden castle have been (re)discovered.

For the past few years, the Municipality of Radovljica has offered local inhabitants an opportunity to put forward suggestions for new projects, the so-called ‘Participative Budget’. Inhabitants can then vote for the project they would like to see become a reality, and the projects that get the most votes in each area of the municipality then receive funding so they can go ahead, albeit these things don’t happen overnight.

One such suggestion came from Sašo Gasperin, formerly director of the Šobec Camp, who now works at the Radovljica Tourist Board. In addition, he is a member of the local tourist association in Begunje na Gorenjskem and a tourist guide, who is fluent in both English and German. Thanks to his excellent knowledge of the Begunje area, Sašo’s suggestion was that the area containing the ruins of Klanc Castle is made accessible and equipped with information boards, so visitors can find out about the history of this hidden castle. Fortunately, his suggestion was adopted and the municipality subsequently bought the land on which the castle ruins are situated. The project was taken on by the architect Maj Juvanec, and Sašo helped helped with sources/resources, advice and, believe it or not, a chain saw!

So, who better than to guide us on a walk to see the castle ruins than the man himself – thanks Sašo!

The best place to start the walk is at the Begunje Tourist Information Centre in the centre of the village, which is where you will find the first yellow sign showing the way to the castle (grad Klanec).

TIC Begunje

From here continue on the pavement and past the church, where you turn right, then head in a diagonal direction towards Mt. Dobrča. You reach the village shrine, dedicated to four patrons to mark the four parish churches.

Continue in the direction of the foothills of Mt. Dobrća, with magnificent views towards the Draga valley, until you reach the road that runs from Begunje na Gorenjskem towards Tržič. Cross the road then take the marked path, as shown below.

I’ve taken this path many, many times, hence I was astonished to discover that the caste ruins are just metres away and I never even knew! People certainly knew how to strategically place castles, fortresses, etc. in bygone days.

It really is best to arrange a guided tour by contacting the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre, as you, like me, might find the ruins hard to spot, and also because that way you will certainly get the most out of the visit. However, there are now signs, so if you are up for the challenge and keep your eyes peeled, you might just find them!

The castle dates from the 14th century and was abandoned in the 17th century. The name Gutenberg comes from the German name for Mt. Dobrča (good mountain) – German: guten berg, Slovenian: dobra gora.

The castle complex originally consisted of a rectangular, unfortified tower court with a few farm buildings. After two major construction phases, it expanded into a complex, the ruins of which have been partially preserved to this day.

It also makes a lovely place to sit and contemplate the world, and, on a fine day, enjoy the view(s)!

I won’t reveal everything, since you can discover it for yourself, hence above there is just enough to whet your appetite! For more information about Klanc Castle, nearby Kamen Castle and all the other sights and attractions in the area, visit https://www.radolca.si/en.

© Adele in Slovenia

Hop-On Hop-Off This Summer: Radovljica, Bled, Brezje, Kropa, Kamna Gorica, Begunje, Žirovnica

The Radol’ca Hop-On Hop-Off tourist bus will begin operating on Tuesday 4th July and will run every Tuesday and Thursday during July and August. This year there is an even wider range of places to visit and more things to see and do.

As in previous years a day ticket is great value at just 5 euros. You can get on and off the bus to visit sights of interest along the way, or just enjoy the ride!

On Tuesdays the route is Bled – Radovljica – Kropa, with additional stops at the Šobec Camp, Lesce, Lancovo and Kamna Gorica.

On Thursdays the route is Bled – Vrba – Žirovnica – Begunje – Brezje, with additional stops at Breznica, Spodnji Otok and Podvin.

To whet your appetite here’s a preview of just some of the things you can see and do along the way.

For the first time, this year the bus route includes Žirovnica, where you can visit the new Ajdna Museum Room to find out more about the Ajdna archeological site beneath Mt. Stol where remains were found from a Late Antiquity village dating back over 1400 years.

On especially hot days, a trip to the Završnica valley is an ideal way to seek some tranquillity and shade.

The valley is also a start point for great hikes and bike trips in the Karavanke range, including to the highest peak, Mt. Stol.

You can also visit Noč Beekeeping, where you can see some of the hives belonging to the president of Slovenia’s Beekeeping Association and his family, purchase honey and honey products, and try and buy the exclusive ‘Medena noč’ perfume made with Slovenian honey. You can read more about this in one of my previous blog posts here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2016/06/06/perfume-made-with-slovene-honey-not-just-an-idea-a-reality/

In Brezje you can see the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, and the Nativity Museum, or take a walk on the Path of Peace to the Peračica waterfall.

In Kamna Gorica you can walk through the village to see its many waterways, and walk up to the Sextons’ House Museum, which contains an original black kitchen. Its position offers great views over the village and towards the Karavanke mountains.

In Kropa you can visit the Iron Forging Museum, take a stroll through the village to see the former ironworkers houses, or visit the Vigenc Vice Blacksmith to watch a demonstration of manual nail forging.

In Radovljica itself there are numerous things to see and do including a visit to the Lectar Gingerbread Museum and Workshop, the Museum of Apiculture, the Šivec House Gallery, or simply enjoy a stroll through the well-preserved medieval old town and sit at the viewpoint and enjoy the views of the Sava river, the Jelovica plateau and the Julian Alps.

Or why not take the chance to find out more about Slovenian food and wine by enjoying a meal at one of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants or take a Taste Radol’ca Food Tour. More information here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/taste-radolca-tours/

Further information about the Hop-on Hop-off route and timetable can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/hop-on-hop-off-radolca/

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Snowy Slovenia and Happy 2015!

Although Christmas Day itself wasn’t ‘white’, just 2 days later, as had been forecast, the snow arrived – and plenty of it too. On Sunday morning I woke up to the familiar winter sound of snow ploughs and people outside shovelling snow from one pile to another, digging out their cars and clearing their pathways and driveways. Those that know me, and regular readers of my blog, will know only too well that I’m far from a fan of the white stuff although actually I don’t mind the virgin, powder, dry snow; what I don’t like are the inevitable icy pavements and paths that follow and wish it were possible to just enjoy the snow for a few days and to then wake up one day and find it all gone – if only! This was the view from out of my window on Sunday morning, and the path down to the Šobec camp (right).

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Of course, owners of Slovenia’s ski resorts will be doing cartwheels to celebrate this big dump of snow as it means their season can start in earnest and will provide a much needed boost to their coffers. Some of the country’s largest and most popular are; Krvavec, Vogel, Cerkno, Maribor’s Pohorje, and Kranjska Gora. Others include Golte, Stari vrh, Soriška planina and many more. Sadly, Kanin, Slovenia’s highest ski resort in the Soča valley, still remains closed and it can only be hoped that a rescue package can be found for what was once a thriving winter destination. The advantage of many of Slovenia’s ski resorts is their ease of access and, in comparison with neighbouring countries, the relative cheapness of ski passes.

It all looked so different on Christmas Day when I took my parents, who were visiting from the UK, for a surprise trip to see the Live Christmas Nativity in the Postojna Caves. A visit to the caves is magical whenever you visit, but on this occasion it was made even more so by the cast of actors and singers performing nativity scenes and Christmas songs. Before reaching the entrance of the caves, there is a working watermill, as seen below, and which you can visit to see flour-grinding demonstrations.

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The Postojna Caves are one of the top tourist attractions in Slovenia and really worth a visit. The experience begins with a ride on the mini-train which takes visitors into the heart of the vast cave system and thereafter a large part of the trip is made on foot, accompanied by guides, before returning to the train to exit the caves. The UNESCO listed Škocjan Caves are equally as impressive (minus the train) so if you are visiting Slovenia, do make sure to visit one of Slovenia’s karst caves, you won’t be disappointed. I’m afraid since flash photography is not permitted, I don’t have any great photos of the interior of the caves; all the more reason then to come and see them for yourselves!

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In Radovljica meanwhile, we were entertained on Boxing Day by Tobia Circus performing live in the old town centre with an impressive, though bizarre, act which consisted entirely of various tricks performed with brooms!

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So, it’s almost the end of another year and thus time for reflection on the highs and lows of my year. I’ll get the ‘lows’ out of the way first, since there really was only one; the weather! It began with the devastation caused by the glaze ice in February (http://wp.me/p3005k-bf), the effects of which are still very much in evidence in forests and woods, particularly in the central area of the country. Otherwise, it was the rain and lack of sun that meant it was a bit of a wash-out of a year, meaning my hiking and biking trips were less frequent and ambitious than I had hoped.

Now, on to the ‘highs’. On the professional side, after almost 8 years living here, my efforts seem to be finally paying off and I have a marked increase in the amount of translating and proofreading work I have been doing of late. But perhaps the astonishing success of my blog is one of my proudest achievements of the year. When I began writing it in 2013, I had no idea if anyone would find it/read it, however, in it’s first year, it had 10,000 readers; this year it has racked up over a further 30,000 readers taking the total to over 40,000 since I began writing it. Along the way I’ve had lots of positive feedback, helped many readers who have contacted me for advice and/or assistance, and met some of my readers too. I believe the thirst for information about Slovenia will continue to grow and I hope to try to keep providing as much up-to-date information about my life here in Radovljica and the surrounding areas; my hikes, bike trips, and trips further afield. My Adele in Slovenia Facebook page has also mirrored the success of the blog and I will also endeavour to keep providing relevant up-to-date information there too, as well as photos on my Pinterest page.

On the personal side, well my year is ending much the same as it began i.e. alone. However, I don’t see that as a negative. This year for me was about regaining some of my lost confidence and assertiveness, meeting new people, building friendships, and continuing to live a relatively quiet, but content, life in this tiny corner of Europe. So all in all, 2014 was a good year and here’s hoping 2015 will be even better!

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL!

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014