A Return to Radol’ca!

For those of you who don’t know, I moved to Slovenia, specifically Radovljica – from the UK – in 2007, and have lived here ever since. Well, that is up until 1st July this year when, due to being let down at the last minute re the purchase of a flat, also in Radovljica, we had to temporarily move elsewhere; albeit not far, just up the valley to Gozd Martuljek, near Kranjska Gora.

Whilst Gozd Martuljek is a true paradise – nature, peace and a wealth of outdoor opportunities, particularly the traffic-free cycle track into Italy – I don’t know anyone there and with the onset of winter, I was very pleased to return to the Radol’ca area early this November. To be able to again walk and cycle familiar routes, see familiar faces and feel at ‘home’ is priceless.

It wasn’t long before I was out exploring some of my favourite walks and hikes, a couple of which I’d like to share with you.

The first, and one of my regular ‘haunts’ starts near the Tourist Information Centre in Begunje na Gorenjskem, from where there are numerous trails leading up to St. Peter’s Church.

The church and the nearby Sankaška koča hut can be a destination in themself or you can continue, like I regularly do, onward to the Smokuški vrh viewpoint, from where there are wonderful views towards Lake Bled and the Julian Alps.

One of the most well-known mountain huts and hikes in the area is to the Roblekov dom mountain hut on Mt. Begunščica in the Karavanke mountains. Since I’ve been there many, many times, and since we have a joint passion for exploring lesser-trodden paths, we decided to approach it from the other side, i.e. from the Završnica Valley in the neighbouring municipality of Žirovnica.

By following the red and white circular trail markers, you can do a circular hike by taking the trail from the Završnica valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Before reaching the Poljška planina pasture, which is about halfway, the trail markers lead down towards the pasture before heading up again towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut. Alternatively, if, like us, you spot yellow markers on trees and opt to follow them, you will also reach the hut on a pleasant trail, though you do need to keep your eyes out for the markers.

To make the route circular, from the hut, hike down to the Poljška planina mountain pasture, from where you take the marked route towards the Sankaška koča hut, branching off for Smokuški vrh and following the ridge (as described in a previous blog here https://adeleinslovenia.com/2024/08/21/a-radolca-ridge-hike/), from where you can return to the Završnica valley.

Before setting off on these, or any other hiking trails in the area, be sure to take a look at the map of hiking trails and/or pop into the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre for more information, and be sure you are properly equipped, which means having good footwear too!

With winter fast approaching, too fast for my liking, if you are planning a visit to Slovenia, you might like to read my previous blog titled 5 Great Winter Hikes in Radovljica and the Surroundings.

The countdown to the festive season is on, and the Christmas tree in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town – is taking shape. The switching on of the festive lights will take place on 30th November, which is always a magical event for all the family.

©Adele in Slovenia

 

 

The Renovated Shepherds’ Trail

The Begunje Shepherds’ Trail (Pastirska pot) is one of my favourite of all the hiking trails in the Radol’ca area. The variety of the terrain, the stunning views, and the fact that it is entirely circular all add up to one great hike!

Unfortunately, during the major floods that affected large parts of Slovenia in August 2023, the trail sustained significant damage and was closed for around a year. It reopened in 2024, though the lower part of the trail in particular was almost unrecognisable. Since then, significant work has taken place and I’m pleased to be able to say that the trail is now better than ever.

The trail begins at the head of the Draga Valley in Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can park and set off on foot on the 10.2km trail. You will soon see a red sign to Preval, where you cross the stream and from then on follow the usual red and white circular trail markers. You soon reach one of the new bridges.

The trail then begins to lead up through the forest, passing a cascade of the stream.

Now comes the hardest part of the trail, though following the floods it is actually better equipped than previously, with steel rope and rungs, so isn’t that difficult providing you have good footwear and are reasonably agile.

I wouldn’t recommend doing this hike after heavy rain, as the next part involves crossing the stream in several places, which is perfectly doable when water levels are low.

After cross the streaming one last time, you reach a rest area with a bench.

Next you reach a giant fir tree, so giant, in fact, there was no way or being able to photograph it from within the confines of the trail, so you’ll just have to visit and see it for yourself! The statistics on the signpost below give the facts and figures: circumference 347 cm, diameter 110 cm, quantity of wood 12.5 m3, height 35 metres.

After about an hour and 15 minutes of hiking, you emerge onto a mountain pasture, home to the Koča na Prevalu mountain hut, where you can quench your thirst and/or enjoy a hearty pasture-style meal. This is one of first of four mountain huts that you pass on this trail – note: the huts are open daily during summer, but out of season some are closed whilst others open at weekends only. You can find out here what’s available to eat on Radovljica’s mountain pastures.

Now follow the forest road to the left for about 10 minutes, then take the path branches off to the right and begins to climb up again on the path marked as ‘čez Roža’. You are soon rewarded with wonderful views of the Radovljica Plains, the Jelovica plateauLake Bled, and the Julian Alps with Triglav National Park.

The scenic path is level in places, with a few ups and downs and a few gullies to cross. Shortly before the end of the čez Roža trail, you reach an abandoned manganese mine shaft with an information board, which, at the time of writing (July 2025), was looking at bit worse for wear.

Just a few minutes after passing the mine shaft, the trail joins the main trail that leads from the valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut and on to Mt. Begunščica or you could follow the trail back down to the valley, thus completing the circular route.

I’d like to end this blog by saying a big ‘Thank you’ to all those of you who read my last blog and sent such lovely messages of congratulations.

Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Reading in Radovljica: Dormice, Moonshine and More!

When I first moved to Slovenia I was eager and curious to learn more about the country’s history, people, culture, customs and more. At that time, however, books on Slovenia were very few and far between, almost non-existent, other than lengthy, history-heavy books that (almost) require a degree in ‘Slovenology‘ to understand.

Since then, a book titled ‘Slovenology‘, written by an American living in Slovenia, has actually been written, and I enjoyed reading Erica Debeljak’s self-penned memoir Forbidden Bread, but thereafter the list of what I deem ‘readable’ books on Slovenia dried up. That is, until now!

I was therefore delighted to discover a new book about Slovenia, written by a fellow Brit, Sam Baldwin, titled Dormice and Moonshine. I was even more delighted when Sam got in touch with me recently and we sat down together in Radovljica for a chat about what attracted us to Slovenia and life as an expat here.

When not working or hiking-cycling in summer, I like to find time to read, preferably outdoors. There are numerous viewpoints with benches in and around the old town centre of Radovljica, which are ideal for relaxing, soaking up the views and reading. In the heat of summer, there’s nowhere better than the tree-lined avenue in Radovljica’s park.

Arboristična nega dreves v grajskem parku - radovljica.si

For the ultimate view, head to the viewpoint at the end of historic Linhart Square, from where there are wonderful views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and further towards the Julian Alps with Mt. Triglav at the helm.

Another of my favourite viewpoints is located in the public car park between Gostilna Kunstelj and the old town centre.

Now, back to the topic of Dormice and Moonshine! I read the first few chapters in one sitting and can honestly say it’s by far my favourite book on Slovenia, not least because, like me, Sam fell in love with the country mainly due to its wonderful nature and various peculiarities, of which dormice and moonshine are among them! The tale of how he and his brother discovered Slovenia and how they ended up buying a sausage-curing hut, and what followed, is thoroughly entertaining. His encounters with ‘Mr. North’ and the ‘Wine Cowboy’ had me giggling out loud and are a ‘must read’! The only other book(s) that have had that effect on me are by Bill Bryson. So, if, like me, you are a Bryson fan, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy Dormice and Moonshine.

Why the title Dormice and Moonshine? Well, that would be giving too much away, so you’ll have to order a copy and read it for yourself to find out!

With summer in full swing, and 30 degrees temperatures to boot, here are some additional ideas for how and where to keep cool in the heat!

It’s always cooler atop a mountain, well, other than when there is an inversion during winter. So, hiking, particularly in forested areas, is a great way to escape the worst of the heat. But do take clothing with you for all four seasons, as it’s not unheard of to need hats and gloves in the mountains, even in mid-summer, as the temperature and conditions can change very quickly.

Or set off on one of the many theme trails in and around the Radovlijca area, such as the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Radovljica’s renovated Olympic swimming pool, which is open-air during summer, as well as the Kropa swimming pool are particularly popular with children at this time of year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

In nearby Tržič, you can descend into the Dovžan gorge, where you follow the course of the Tržiška Bistrica stream for a short distance, and can take the chance to cool off in the refreshing (read: freezing!) water!

But I must end with a word of caution. This year there have (already) been a record amount of rescues in Slovenia’s mountains, many of which have involved tourists who are very poorly equipped and/or have underestimated the mountains or overestimated their abilities. Please don’t be one of them! All the mountain rescuers here are volunteers. Do your homework before setting off. Check the forecast. If you are going on a long hike, or a multi-day hike, be sure to take clothing for all four seasons, as the weather can change very quickly. BE PREPARED!

© Adele Gray

R&R in Radovljica!

It occurred to me recently that among all the hundreds of blogs I’ve written about Radovljica and the surroundings throughout the years, the large majority have been about active pursuits – my love of hiking, cycling and, of course, food!

However, somewhere along the line I’ve overlooked the fact that Radovljica and its surroundings is also a great place for some R&R – that’s rest and relaxation to you and me!

Of course, what is one person’s idea of R&R can be at polar ends of the spectrum to another, so below I’ve suggested some ways you can include R&R, wellness and well-being, into your visit to the Radovljica area.

Pampering

Massages, facials and more! There are quite a number of beauty salons in the Radovljica area, where you can relax, be pampered and/or be smothered in honey or even mud!

CIMG0932

Cryotherapy 

Numerous sportspeople use cryotherapy, as it is said to help promote faster healing of injuries and can also help with muscle pain and some joint and muscle disorders.

May be an image of 5 people

And here in Radovljica you can try cryotherapy at the Rož’ca salon at the Radovljica Sports Park, where you can also have various massages, magnet therapy and more.

May be an image of 2 people

Wellness and saunas

The small, family-run Sport Hotel Manca is the place to go for a sauna in Radovljica. It has a Turkish, Finnish and infrared sauna, as well as a whirlpool.

The Torok guest house and spa is located in nearby Hraše. Upon prior booking, the wellness area, which features a jacuzzi and Finnish sauna, is also open to non-residents.

Swimming

At the time of writing, the Radovljica Olympic-size swimming pool is undergoing renovation, but is nonetheless open to the public for recreational swimming during the week from 8pm to 10pm and at weekends from 9am to 12noon and from 4pm to 7pm.

In winter the pool is covered, while in summer it is open-air. The pool hosts a wide range of competitions, including national championships, training camps and other events.

Letni bazen Radovljica

The aforementioned Sport Hotel Manca also has an outdoor pool, where in summer you can cool off in the water then sit back and soak up the views of the surrounding mountains.

Bazen

After a day on the slopes in winter, a hike in the Karavanke mountains (whatever the season) or a mountain bike ride on the Jelovica plateau in summer, or even just because ‘you’re worth it’, we all deserve a bit of pampering from time to time, right?!

© Adele in Slovenia

Let The Train Take The Strain!

With the world becoming, or trying to become, ever ‘greener’, many of us are trying to do our bit here and there, including taking public transport, where possible.

The great news is that Radovljica is really well connected, so it’s an ideal place to base yourself for getting around Slovenia and even further afield.

In addition to Radovljica’s new railway station, Slovenian Railways also introduced some new trains late last year. The first journey took place on the new electrified KISS trains, produced by the Swiss producer Stadler, on the Ljubljana-Litija line. The trains are renowned for their improved comfort, spaciousness and functionality, as well as panoramic windows for a literal ‘seat with a view’.

Na slovenskih železnicah prvi novi dvonadstropni električni vlak - Zelena Slovenija

Within minutes of stepping off the train at Radovljica’s railway station you can reach Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

It takes less than an hour to reach Radovljica from Ljubljana (or vice versa), or in the other direction, you can go to Jesenice and from there to Villach in Austria and onwards. In the opposite direction, i.e. from Ljubljana, you can travel to Maribor or Celje – Slovenia’s second and third largest cities respectively – or to Zagreb in Croatia and further.

Below I’ve put together a few suggestions of what to see and do by train (and bus) in the local area.

Take the train from Radovljica to Globoko, where you can visit the Barbana Stud Farm to see the famous white Lipizzaner horses.

Lipizzaner Stock Photos, Pictures & Royalty-Free Images - iStock

From Globoko you can either return by train or walk back through the Forest Nature Trail.

Take the train from Radovljica to Otoče, then walk the Otoče to Brezje Pilgrimage Trail.

On reaching Brezje, you can see Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary – the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians – as well as the Nativity Museum, then return to Radovljica by bus.

Take the bus from Radovljica to Bled, so much easier than searching (and paying!) for somewhere to park. I’m sure I don’t need to tell you about Bled’s ‘star attraction’!

Take the bus from Radovljica to Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Elan Alpine Skiing Museum, the Avsenik Museum, and the village is also an excellent destination for hiking in the Karavanke mountains, for example to St. Peter’s church above the village, on the Lamberg Trail past Kamen Castle to the Draga Valley, from where you can continue up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut or even higher up to Mt. Begunscica.

Photo: Miran Kambic

Of course, there are numerous other options, which, for travel in the Radol’ca area, the lovely folk at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre can help you with, or for travel further afield take a look at the Slovenian Railways website to get some more ideas of what to see and do.

So, why not sit back and let the train take the strain?!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

The Sky Isn’t the Limit at Lesce Sports Airfield!

The annual open day and model aircraft competition took place at Lesce Sports Airfield on Monday this week – Assumption Day.

We went along to watch some of the amazing model aircraft, which, apart from the size, could easily be mistaken for the real thing!

One can only imagine the hours upon hours of painstaking labour, not to mention patience and precision, that go into making such models.

In addition to the model aircraft show and competition, visitors also had the chance to see aircraft up close…

…and even a chance to sit inside!

I managed to get a shot of a model aeroplane and real aeroplane almost in unison, which perfectly illustrates the likeness of the former to the latter. Can you work out which one is which?!?!

Although the event has now been and gone for this year, you can still visit the airport at anytime to just observe the comings and goings while enjoying a drink and/or meal at the excellent on-site Na Klezn’k restaurant. A great meal with a great view!

You can also treat yourself to a panoramic plane or helicopter flight above Lake Bled, the Karavanke mountains, the Julian Alps and the wider Gorenjska area. For more information send an email to: info@alc-lesce.si

Various other events and competitions are held at the airfield throughout the year, including an annual paragliding competition.

Photo: Skydiving Source

Click here to read more about gliding above the Alps.

In addition, the airport’s location on the Radovljica Plains provides excellent conditions for gliding.

So, another place to add to your ‘must visit’ list whilst in the Radol’ca area!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

Be Cool and Keep Cool in Radol’ca!

With the current heatwave here and in much of Europe, no doubt many people’s thoughts are turning to how and where to keep cool. Well, in Slovenia it’s not that difficult really, since the country has so many forests and water sources.

Did you know that Slovenia has more than 60 rivers and streams, 300 artificial and natural lakes and 7,500 freshwater springs?

The confluence of the country’s longest river – the Sava – is in Radol’ca, more specifically in Lancovo, and in the country as a whole, you are never far away from a source of free, clean drinking water.

Photo: SDZV

In the Radol’ca area there are fountains with drinking water in various places, so all you need is a water bottle and you can fill up (free of charge!) along the way, whether on foot or by bike.

There are also several new rest areas, which are situated at road intersections and are the ideal for cyclists to stop for a drink, rest…

…and even a bit of (additional) exercise!

Perhaps you are wondering where to hike in this heat? Well, again, it’s not a problem, you just need to choose the right trails, i.e. ones that lead through the shade of the forest, and also make sure you set out early and have plenty of water with you.

My favourite ‘cool’ hike at this time of year, in fact I went there this morning, is the Shepherds’ Trail, which leads from the Draga valley up to the Preval mountain hut.

You can either return the same way on continue via the ‘čez Roza‘ trail towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Photo: J Gantar

If you want a shorter, easier walk, then the Sava River Trail runs partly through the cool of the forest, as do the Grabnarca Waterside Trail in the Lipnica valley, and the Lamberg Trail in Begunje na Gorenjskem.

If you’d prefer to be in, or on, the water in this heat, then there are plenty of opportunities to do that, too, in the Radol’ca area.

Although currently undergoing a complete renovation, work at the Radovljica swimming pool has temporarily stopped over the summer and the pool is open to visitors, and guests of the Šobec Camp have free access to the natural outdoor pool.

If you’d rather be on the water rather than in it, then rafting, canyoning, kayaking and other river-based activities are available on the Sava river and other nearby watercourses.

I, for one, am not moaning about the heat. Enjoy the heat while you can, I say, since winter is never far around the corner here in Gorenjska!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

All Trails Lead to Talež!

I could probably almost write an entire book about the various paths that lead to Talež – a vantage point on the Jelovica plateau with magnificent views over the Radovljica plains, Bled, the Karavanke mountains and towards the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. However, as I’m writing a blog rather than a book, below I’ve provided a brief overview of just some of the trails that lead up to Talež, so you can pick the one that suits you, depending on where you are starting/staying.

From Radovljica the most direct route leads down from the old town over the bridge above the railway line, down Cesta svobode road to reach the bridge across the Sava river at Lancovo. Cross the bridge then turn immediately right and after just cca. 100 metres take the left fork. Continue for cca. 150 metres to another fork, where you should continue straight ahead (not up to the left).

After passing a few houses on your left, you will enter the forest. Continue to the first green waymarker to Talež, where you should turn left, then at the next waymarker turn right. Thereafter, there aren’t any other visible waymarkers but the path is well trodden, and even if you lose your way, just keep heading in a roughly westerly direction until you reach the forest road, which you then follow, again in a westerly direction, towards the Koča na Taležu (Hunters’ Hut on Talež) mountain hut.

If you are staying at the Šobec campsite, you can cross the bridge over the Sava river from the rear of the camp then continue across the meadows to reach the bridge over the Sava river at Bodešče, from where you can follow the trail up to the Koča na Taležu mountain hut. Note: this trail is somewhat easier to follow and has a couple of waymarkers.

Iz Radovljice na Bled

If you’d like to do a longer, circular walk then you continue onwards from the hut to the highest point of the Talež ridgeTolsti vrh. There are several options, but my preferred one is to continue past the hut following the green signs for Tolsti vrh.

Alternatively, for an even longer, circular walk, you can first walk (or cycle/drive) alongside the Sava river all the way to Selo, where you cross the Sava river.

Then walk up through the forest to the village of Kupljenik, passing a couple of shrines on the way.

On reaching the village you are rewarded with the first of many great views!

From the village, initially follow the marked path to the Babji zob cave before branching off towards Talež.

As this walk is at lower altitudes, it’s also ideal for late-spring (or winter if there’s not much snow). These photos were taken in April, hence you can still see snow on the mountains in the distance.

You might meet a friend or two along the way!

Whichever route you choose, you will eventually end up at the Lovska koča na Taležu hut, where you can enjoy a refreshing drink, a cake and/or something more hearty, while soaking up the views over the Radovljica Plains and the Karavanke mountains (note: out of season the hut is usually only open at weekends, during summer it is open daily).

May be an image of ‎nature, mountain and ‎text that says "‎소충 ሞ0 שעי‎"‎‎

Click to find out more about the numerous theme trails and hiking trails in the Radol’ca area.

Happy hiking!

© Adele in Slovenia

The Best Views in Radovljica – You Don’t Need to Go Far!

As the title of this blog elicits, you are never far from a stunning view in Radovljica, and you don’t even need to don your hiking boots or work up a sweat to savour the views either!

There are numerous great vantage points in and around Radovljica, all of which are within a 10-15 minute walk of the old town. Let’s start with the closest and work our way backwards, i.e. away from Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

The viewing platform at the end of the old town is a great way to get a ‘feel for the land’. You can see the Sava river, the Jelovica plateau, and the Julian Alps – with Slovenia’s highest mountain, Mt. Triglav.

From the old town walk to the car park that it just a few metres ahead and you will see another viewpoint with a bench and similar views to those from the old town.

Now ahead away from the old town towards the Radovljica swimming pool, which is currently under reconstruction. Behind the pool there is a small hill called Obla gorica. Walk up and along its length, where you can also try out the brand new trim trail. The views are somewhat obscured by trees, but where there is a gap in the trees, there are great views to be had.

There is a second, smaller and lower rise to the east, from where views open up of the Baroque St. Peter’s church in the old town.

The final stop is the small hill called Voljči hrib, from where there are magnificent panoramic views of the Karavanke mountains, the Radovljica Plains, over Radovljica itself, and the Julian Alps in the distance. There’s a bench at the top, too, where you can soak up the views.

By the way, I took these photos a couple of weeks ago (yes, it’s taken me that long to find time to get round to putting this blog together!) and as I write, it’s raining here in Radovljica. However, I can see the snow getting lower and lower, so the mountains are, yet again, snow-capped, and we might even wake up to snow on the ground in the morning, too – boo hoo!

The best and easiest way to navigate Radovljica is to first pay a visit to the Tourist Information Centre, which is located at the entrance to Linhart Square, where you can pick up a map and the staff will be happy to point you in the direction of the viewpoints mentioned in this blog, and, of course, provide any other information you need about the area.

Almost all the COVID-related measures have been dropped now (masks are still mandatory indoors), so this year you really can start planning your trip to Slovenia, which, of course, must include a visit to Radovljica!

© Adele in Slovenia

Winter Hikes and Spikes in Radol’ca!

At last, I’ve found time to sit down and write my first blog of the year 2022! It’s been a funny old winter so far. First a lot of early snow in December, followed by a very cold spell, then an unseasonably mild spell, followed by rain, a bit more snow and now another really cold spell, albeit now at least with beautiful blue skies and sunshine.

Although I’ve never been a fan of the cold and snow, I’m also not one to sit indoors, regardless of the weather (and my ongoing health woes). So, here are a few ideas for winter hikes in the Radol’ca, oh, and read on to find out about the ‘spikes’ (as mentioned in the title) too!

One of our favourite hikes at this time of the year is to Smokuški vrh above the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem. Since we like doing circular routes and prefer to leave the car in the garage, when we have time we often set off on foot from Radovljica to Begunje (cca. 50 minutes), where we take the path that begins near the post office and leads steeply up to St. Peter’s church (cca. 30mins).

From the church, we carry on up to Smokuški vrh on the ridge, which is a great vantage point.

We then walk along the ridge, with stunning views of the Julian Alps and Slovenia’s highest mountain – Triglav – before descending towards the village of Rodine and back through Hraše and Lesce to Radovljica.

Now onto the ‘spikes’ I mentioned above…As also mentioned above, it’s been a mixed bag this winter, which means that although some places at lower altitudes are now almost snow-free (up to around 800metres above sea-level), in the forest, particularly in areas that don’t get any/much sun and paths that are well used, the paths are really icy in places, hence ‘spikes’ i.e. mini crampons, are a ‘must’ in my rucksack wherever I go.

So, if you are planning any hikes in winter, I’d advise you bring (or buy while you are here) a pair of these mini crampons – you can pick them up for around €30, they are very lightweight and quick and easy to put on. Note, however, that these crampons are NOT suitable for more strenuous and higher mountain tours, for which semi-automatic crampons are a must at this time of the year.

And what’s more, the ones I’m ‘modelling’ below, are even made here in the municipality of Radovljica – at the Veriga factory in Lesce, where you can buy them direct of pick them up in sports shops.

My other favourite places to hike in the Radovljica area in winter include the Goška ravan mountain pasture and hut on the Jelovica plateau

The Roblekov dom mountain hut, above the Draga valley on the slopes of Mt. Begunščica

And the Vodiška planina mountain pasture and Partisanski dom mountain hut above Kropa.

You can find out about all these hikes and more about winter in Radovljica, visit the Visit Radol’ca website. Happy and, of course, safe hiking!

© Adele in Slovenia