Klanc Castle – The Ruins of A Secret Gutenberg Stronghold

“Klanc Castle? What? Where? Never heard of it!”

That’s pretty much the response you will get from most Slovenes if you say you are going to visit Klanc Castle, which is also known as Glanz Castle and Novi Gutenberg. In fact, I’d put money on it that the majority, if not all, of those reading this blog – whether in Slovenia or elsewhere – won’t have heard of it.

So, let me enlighten you! Actually, it’s pretty much down to one man that I came to hear of it, and it’s thanks to him that the ruins of this hidden castle have been (re)discovered.

For the past few years, the Municipality of Radovljica has offered local inhabitants an opportunity to put forward suggestions for new projects, the so-called ‘Participative Budget’. Inhabitants can then vote for the project they would like to see become a reality, and the projects that get the most votes in each area of the municipality then receive funding so they can go ahead, albeit these things don’t happen overnight.

One such suggestion came from Sašo Gasperin, formerly director of the Šobec Camp, who now works at the Radovljica Tourist Board. In addition, he is a member of the local tourist association in Begunje na Gorenjskem and a tourist guide, who is fluent in both English and German. Thanks to his excellent knowledge of the Begunje area, Sašo’s suggestion was that the area containing the ruins of Klanc Castle is made accessible and equipped with information boards, so visitors can find out about the history of this hidden castle. Fortunately, his suggestion was adopted and the municipality subsequently bought the land on which the castle ruins are situated. The project was taken on by the architect Maj Juvanec, and Sašo helped helped with sources/resources, advice and, believe it or not, a chain saw!

So, who better than to guide us on a walk to see the castle ruins than the man himself – thanks Sašo!

The best place to start the walk is at the Begunje Tourist Information Centre in the centre of the village, which is where you will find the first yellow sign showing the way to the castle (grad Klanec).

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From here continue on the pavement and past the church, where you turn right, then head in a diagonal direction towards Mt. Dobrča. You reach the village shrine, dedicated to four patrons to mark the four parish churches.

Continue in the direction of the foothills of Mt. Dobrća, with magnificent views towards the Draga valley, until you reach the road that runs from Begunje na Gorenjskem towards Tržič. Cross the road then take the marked path, as shown below.

I’ve taken this path many, many times, hence I was astonished to discover that the caste ruins are just metres away and I never even knew! People certainly knew how to strategically place castles, fortresses, etc. in bygone days.

It really is best to arrange a guided tour by contacting the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre, as you, like me, might find the ruins hard to spot, and also because that way you will certainly get the most out of the visit. However, there are now signs, so if you are up for the challenge and keep your eyes peeled, you might just find them!

The castle dates from the 14th century and was abandoned in the 17th century. The name Gutenberg comes from the German name for Mt. Dobrča (good mountain) – German: guten berg, Slovenian: dobra gora.

The castle complex originally consisted of a rectangular, unfortified tower court with a few farm buildings. After two major construction phases, it expanded into a complex, the ruins of which have been partially preserved to this day.

It also makes a lovely place to sit and contemplate the world, and, on a fine day, enjoy the view(s)!

I won’t reveal everything, since you can discover it for yourself, hence above there is just enough to whet your appetite! For more information about Klanc Castle, nearby Kamen Castle and all the other sights and attractions in the area, visit https://www.radolca.si/en.

© Adele in Slovenia

Let The Train Take The Strain!

With the world becoming, or trying to become, ever ‘greener’, many of us are trying to do our bit here and there, including taking public transport, where possible.

The great news is that Radovljica is really well connected, so it’s an ideal place to base yourself for getting around Slovenia and even further afield.

In addition to Radovljica’s new railway station, Slovenian Railways also introduced some new trains late last year. The first journey took place on the new electrified KISS trains, produced by the Swiss producer Stadler, on the Ljubljana-Litija line. The trains are renowned for their improved comfort, spaciousness and functionality, as well as panoramic windows for a literal ‘seat with a view’.

Na slovenskih železnicah prvi novi dvonadstropni električni vlak - Zelena Slovenija

Within minutes of stepping off the train at Radovljica’s railway station you can reach Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

It takes less than an hour to reach Radovljica from Ljubljana (or vice versa), or in the other direction, you can go to Jesenice and from there to Villach in Austria and onwards. In the opposite direction, i.e. from Ljubljana, you can travel to Maribor or Celje – Slovenia’s second and third largest cities respectively – or to Zagreb in Croatia and further.

Below I’ve put together a few suggestions of what to see and do by train (and bus) in the local area.

Take the train from Radovljica to Globoko, where you can visit the Barbana Stud Farm to see the famous white Lipizzaner horses.

Lipizzaner Stock Photos, Pictures & Royalty-Free Images - iStock

From Globoko you can either return by train or walk back through the Forest Nature Trail.

Take the train from Radovljica to Otoče, then walk the Otoče to Brezje Pilgrimage Trail.

On reaching Brezje, you can see Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary – the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians – as well as the Nativity Museum, then return to Radovljica by bus.

Take the bus from Radovljica to Bled, so much easier than searching (and paying!) for somewhere to park. I’m sure I don’t need to tell you about Bled’s ‘star attraction’!

Take the bus from Radovljica to Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Elan Alpine Skiing Museum, the Avsenik Museum, and the village is also an excellent destination for hiking in the Karavanke mountains, for example to St. Peter’s church above the village, on the Lamberg Trail past Kamen Castle to the Draga Valley, from where you can continue up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut or even higher up to Mt. Begunscica.

Photo: Miran Kambic

Of course, there are numerous other options, which, for travel in the Radol’ca area, the lovely folk at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre can help you with, or for travel further afield take a look at the Slovenian Railways website to get some more ideas of what to see and do.

So, why not sit back and let the train take the strain?!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

The Best Views in Radovljica – You Don’t Need to Go Far!

As the title of this blog elicits, you are never far from a stunning view in Radovljica, and you don’t even need to don your hiking boots or work up a sweat to savour the views either!

There are numerous great vantage points in and around Radovljica, all of which are within a 10-15 minute walk of the old town. Let’s start with the closest and work our way backwards, i.e. away from Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

The viewing platform at the end of the old town is a great way to get a ‘feel for the land’. You can see the Sava river, the Jelovica plateau, and the Julian Alps – with Slovenia’s highest mountain, Mt. Triglav.

From the old town walk to the car park that it just a few metres ahead and you will see another viewpoint with a bench and similar views to those from the old town.

Now ahead away from the old town towards the Radovljica swimming pool, which is currently under reconstruction. Behind the pool there is a small hill called Obla gorica. Walk up and along its length, where you can also try out the brand new trim trail. The views are somewhat obscured by trees, but where there is a gap in the trees, there are great views to be had.

There is a second, smaller and lower rise to the east, from where views open up of the Baroque St. Peter’s church in the old town.

The final stop is the small hill called Voljči hrib, from where there are magnificent panoramic views of the Karavanke mountains, the Radovljica Plains, over Radovljica itself, and the Julian Alps in the distance. There’s a bench at the top, too, where you can soak up the views.

By the way, I took these photos a couple of weeks ago (yes, it’s taken me that long to find time to get round to putting this blog together!) and as I write, it’s raining here in Radovljica. However, I can see the snow getting lower and lower, so the mountains are, yet again, snow-capped, and we might even wake up to snow on the ground in the morning, too – boo hoo!

The best and easiest way to navigate Radovljica is to first pay a visit to the Tourist Information Centre, which is located at the entrance to Linhart Square, where you can pick up a map and the staff will be happy to point you in the direction of the viewpoints mentioned in this blog, and, of course, provide any other information you need about the area.

Almost all the COVID-related measures have been dropped now (masks are still mandatory indoors), so this year you really can start planning your trip to Slovenia, which, of course, must include a visit to Radovljica!

© Adele in Slovenia

Forest Nature Trails in Radovljica

On what was – if I remember correctly – my second visit to Radovljica back in 2006, prior to moving here in 2007, I called in at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre to enquire about where I could go for a walk without needing a car.

I was given a map of the area and directed to the Forest Nature Trail and/or the Lipnica Castle Trail. I’ve written about the latter previously, however, it wasn’t until I recently read in the local paper that the former has now been equipped with new signage, that I realised that I have never actually written a blog about it. So, now is the time to right that wrong!

Do like me and pop into the Tourist Info Centre to pick up a map, then, if you have a car, you can drive to the start, or, like me, cycle there!

There is an information board at the start (unfortunately it’s only in Slovene), and from there just follow the trail through the forest. You can’t (really) go wrong!

The trail is equipped with signs showing the species of tree (in both Slovene and Latin) as well as signs with footprints showing the way.

It first leads through the forest on a terrace above the Sava river

…before descending to a beautiful, tranquil, forested part of Radovljica, which makes you feel like you are a million miles away from civilisation. There is a tree trunk showing the rings of wood and significant national and international events that occurred based on the presumed age of the tree.

In one of the quieter areas, away from the road, we even spotted deer in the forest in broad daylight when we were there last week, though you’ll have to trust me on that since I wasn’t quick enough with my camera to catch them!

This is just one of numerous nature trails, theme trails and hiking paths in the Radovljica area.

Additionally, if you are in the area from now until the end of August, why not try the Hop On and Discover tourist bus – a reincarnation of the Hop-On Hop-On tourist bus – which connects interesting sites and attractions in the municipalities of Radovljica, Tržič and Jesenice, thus giving you a chance to see, and do, even more!

© Adele in Slovenia

Like Beekeeping? Love Radovljica!

Those interested in beekeeping should definitely make a beeline for Radovljica!

The Radovljica area has a wealth of beekeeping-related sights of interest, all within close proximity, thus making it ideal place to visit for beekeepers or those with an interest in beekeeping.

One such example is the group of 38 beekeepers from Estonia who I helped with their plans to visit Radovljica.

Whilst the main purpose of their trip was beekeeping-related activities, they also managed to find time to do some sightseeing in Ljubljana, took a traditional pletna boat to the island on Lake Bled, and visited Vintgar Gorge.

The main beekeeping day began with a visit to Kralov med in the hamlet of Selo near Bled, where owner Blaž Ambrožič told them everything, and more, that they could possibly want to know about beekeeping in Slovenia. I wrote more extensively about my visit to Kralov med in a previous blog, also about World Bee Day, which you can read here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2016/05/17/world-bee-day-the-anton-jansa-honey-route/

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The undoubted highlight, whether a beekeeper or not, is the chance to see and experience up close the hive found on a nearby tree trunk and transported to its current home. The fact you can get so close is testament to the calm nature of Slovenia’s Carniolan grey bee.

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Next the group came to Radovljica, beginning at the Tourist Information Centre where they tasted local honey and chocolate, and had the chance to buy some gifts to take home. They even brought us some of their own Estonian honey, which, as you can see, the staff enjoyed tasting!

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We then took a stroll through the medieval old town to see the main sights of interest – the Šivec House Gallery, the Radovljica Mansion, St. Peter’s Church, and the other wonderful frescoed buildings.

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Then it was on to the viewpoint for wonderful views of the Julian Alps, the Jelovica plateau and the Sava river.

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The next stop was to Lectar Inn to watch the process of making and decorating the traditional ‘lectar’ gingerbread’ hearts, made with honey, of course!

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And a chance to buy souvenirs and/or gifts for loved ones.

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Having seen Radovljica, it was then time to Taste Radol’ca, with a traditional Slovene lunch, also at Lectar Inn, one of the participating Taste Radol’ca restaurants. During lunch, the owner Jože entertained us with a few of his favourite songs played on the harmonica – never something to be missed!

The final stop in Radovljica was to the Museum of Apiculture, housed in the Radovljica Mansion, where visitors can learn all about the history of beekeeping in Slovenia, watch a video (narrated in English by me!), and in summer watch the bees hard work diligently in the hive.

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The group’s very last stop on the jam-packed, or should I say honey-packed, day, was to the Gorenjska Beekeeping Development and Education Centre in Lesce. You can read more about the centre and its wide-ranging activities here – http://www.radolca.si/en/gorenjska-region-beekeeping-development-and-education-centre/

So, as you can see, the Radovljica area really is a beekeeper’s paradise!

If you’d like any more information about Slovenian beekeeping, or are interested in taking a tour of the town and/or visiting some of the above-mentioned sights, feel free to get in touch or contact Tourism Radol’ca – http://www.radolca.si/en/

© Adele in Slovenia

Let the Radovljica festive season begin!

In Radovjlica the Christmas tree, decorations and lights are up in the old town centre, the cafes and bars are serving mulled wine, and we’ve even had a bit of snowfall to add to the festive feel – so let the festive season begin!

The official switching on of the lights will take place on Friday 4th December at 4.45pm, so come and join the fun! It looks especially magic at night.

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There’s a full programme of events taking place throughout the festive season, with particular emphasis on entertainment for all the family.

In December the Advent Market will take place every Friday from 3-8pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 10am-8pm. As in previous years there will be stalls selling a variety of hand-made local handicrafts and products which make ideal gifts for friends and family – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/festive-december-in-linhart-square/83/110/

Some of the other highlights include:

  • A visit by St. Nicholas (Miklavž)
  • Fairytale Horses for Children
  • ‘This Happy Day’ with Bernese Mountain Dogs
  • A visit by Grandfather Frost (Dedek mraz)
  • Various concerts and performances featuring singing, dancing and street shows

New for this year, from 4-31st December, families can also take part in ‘Finding Grandfather Frost’s Postbox’ (Poišči nabiralnik Dedka Mraza). Start your visit at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre in Linhart Square, where you can collect a booklet with instructions and tips about where to search. Then, just follow the markers to discover the treasures of the old town centre and complete the tasks at the seven points along the way. What a great way to discover more of Radovljica – for the young and the young at heart! More about this here (Slovene only) – http://www.radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/poisci-nabiralnik-dedka-mraza/83/1083/

Preparations are now underway for the Taste Radol’ca closing party at Joštov hram, which takes place this Friday, 4th December, starting at 8pm and once again the chefs are putting their heads together. This time its will be a simpler affair – more finger-food style – but I’m sure it will still be equally delicious! Tickets are available from Tourism Radovljica. http://radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/okusi-radolce-zakljucna-zabava/83/1023/

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Here are some of the winners of this year’s Taste Radol’ca photo competition, which rewarded those who sent in their photos of their meals at one of the participating restaurants. Congratulations to the winners and see you at the party!

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@AdeleinSlovenia 2015

New Cycle Map – Radol’ca & Bled

Suffice to say, the weather last week still wasn’t conducive to much in the way of hiking and biking (though the start of this week has so far been much improved), so, in such times, I turn instead to food – my other great love!

I enjoyed a great meal with friends at Joštov hram in Podnart. Blink and one could easily miss this small and, from the exterior, unprepossessing restaurant, which is tucked away in the Lipnica valley beside the Sava river. However, it really is worth making the trip there, both for the delicious food and for the warm welcome and hospitality received. My advice would be to leave it to chef and proprietor Miso, ably assisted in the kitchen by his mother, so a real family affair, to work his magic and rustle up a selection of the delicious Balkan food on offer. I’m sure, like us, you won’t leave disappointed and certainly not hungry!

Joštov hram is just one of the restaurants that participate in the Taste Radol’ca collaboration which I have written about extensively in previous blogs and more information can also be found under the ‘Taste Radol’ca’ header at the top of my blog.

Taste Bled was also launched this summer. The collaboration is still in its infancy but so far, the following restaurants have signed up to participate and it is hoped that more will come on board in due course:

  • Vila Prešeren
  • Grill Terrace and Restaurant – Best Western Premier Hotel Lovec
  • Julijana Restaurant – Grand Hotel Toplice
  • Hotel Astoria
  • A’l Art – Vila Istra

From this week, a new cycle map covering Radovljica, Bled and the surrounding areas will be available. The project came about thanks to a local, Blaž Bole, who saw a similar scheme in operation in the Netherlands and he, together with a team of volunteers, set about planning and installing a network of cycle signposts around the area. Having done the English translations for the map I have been lucky enough to be a part of its development and we are all justifiably delighted with the finished result. The number of signposts, each with its own number, has been added to gradually over the past 2 years, and now finally this map connects all the numbers and offers a wide variety of cycle routes in the surrounding areas. Cyclists can easily plot their own routes, choosing how long and far they wish to cycle, or there are also 10 suggested routes varying in length and difficulty; the shortest route is 25km with a 639m total height difference; the longest 99km with a whopping 3094m total height difference. Sights and places of interest along the way are also marked on the map, which, from this week, can be obtained free of charge from the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre. I have personally cycled all but one of the routes, the exception being the longest one although I have cycled most of that one too, and would be hard pushed to choose a favourite as each one is wonderfully scenic and varied.

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Also coming up this week:

On Saturday 13th there will be a concert performed by the Lipnica choir, to mark the day of the local holiday celebration. The concert will take place under the village linden tree in Kamna Gorica, beginning at 5pm and is free for all to enjoy.

At Bled Castle on Tuesday and Thursday this week there are medieval and renaissance performances beginning at 5pm – http://www.bled.si/en/events/2014/09/09/1875-Medieval-performances-at-Bled-castle

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Right, I’m off for a walk to make the most of this glorious sunshine – wow, I haven’t said that for a while!!!

© AdeleinSlovenia 2014