A Return to Radol’ca!

For those of you who don’t know, I moved to Slovenia, specifically Radovljica – from the UK – in 2007, and have lived here ever since. Well, that is up until 1st July this year when, due to being let down at the last minute re the purchase of a flat, also in Radovljica, we had to temporarily move elsewhere; albeit not far, just up the valley to Gozd Martuljek, near Kranjska Gora.

Whilst Gozd Martuljek is a true paradise – nature, peace and a wealth of outdoor opportunities, particularly the traffic-free cycle track into Italy – I don’t know anyone there and with the onset of winter, I was very pleased to return to the Radol’ca area early this November. To be able to again walk and cycle familiar routes, see familiar faces and feel at ‘home’ is priceless.

It wasn’t long before I was out exploring some of my favourite walks and hikes, a couple of which I’d like to share with you.

The first, and one of my regular ‘haunts’ starts near the Tourist Information Centre in Begunje na Gorenjskem, from where there are numerous trails leading up to St. Peter’s Church.

The church and the nearby Sankaška koča hut can be a destination in themself or you can continue, like I regularly do, onward to the Smokuški vrh viewpoint, from where there are wonderful views towards Lake Bled and the Julian Alps.

One of the most well-known mountain huts and hikes in the area is to the Roblekov dom mountain hut on Mt. Begunščica in the Karavanke mountains. Since I’ve been there many, many times, and since we have a joint passion for exploring lesser-trodden paths, we decided to approach it from the other side, i.e. from the Završnica Valley in the neighbouring municipality of Žirovnica.

By following the red and white circular trail markers, you can do a circular hike by taking the trail from the Završnica valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Before reaching the Poljška planina pasture, which is about halfway, the trail markers lead down towards the pasture before heading up again towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut. Alternatively, if, like us, you spot yellow markers on trees and opt to follow them, you will also reach the hut on a pleasant trail, though you do need to keep your eyes out for the markers.

To make the route circular, from the hut, hike down to the Poljška planina mountain pasture, from where you take the marked route towards the Sankaška koča hut, branching off for Smokuški vrh and following the ridge (as described in a previous blog here https://adeleinslovenia.com/2024/08/21/a-radolca-ridge-hike/), from where you can return to the Završnica valley.

Before setting off on these, or any other hiking trails in the area, be sure to take a look at the map of hiking trails and/or pop into the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre for more information, and be sure you are properly equipped, which means having good footwear too!

With winter fast approaching, too fast for my liking, if you are planning a visit to Slovenia, you might like to read my previous blog titled 5 Great Winter Hikes in Radovljica and the Surroundings.

The countdown to the festive season is on, and the Christmas tree in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town – is taking shape. The switching on of the festive lights will take place on 30th November, which is always a magical event for all the family.

©Adele in Slovenia

 

 

A Gluten-Free, Jam-Packed Weekend Ahead!

For the last three years, September has been by far the busiest month of the year, and this year is no exception. Why you may ask? Well because, for all my sins, I’m the initiator and organiser of Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia – the biggest gluten-free event in the country, and possibly currently also in the region.

It began in 2023 as a festival, then was last year upgraded to an Expo, which, of course, means even more work for me. I suppose some might say I’ve only got myself to blame, but, as a coeliac myself, I somehow found myself wanting to help by providing an event for fellow coeliacs, as well as those with an intolerance to gluten and foodies in general. Why the latter? Because these days, gluten-free food has come a long way and, with the exception of a few ready packaged products, you often wouldn’t even know its gluten free, and that is certainly the case with all the delicious, fresh food on offer at Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia!

Of course, the fact its held in Radovljica, my favourite town in Slovenia, is an added bonus!

This year’s Expo begins on Saturday 27th September with an Algerian cookery workshop, followed by a special Farmer’s Feast lunch at Lincer in Lesce.

Then, in the evening, treat yourself to a really unique Two Chefs’ Dinner at Hiša Linhart, cooked by Michelin-starred chef Uroš Štefelin and Janez Repolusk, himself a coeliac, from Gostilna Repolusk in Slovenia’s Koroška (Carinthia) region.

No photo description available.

In between, there will be enough time to visit Kamen Castle in Begunje na Gorenjskem, where, as part of the Pranger Festival of Poetry, Criticism, Translation and Reading, you can enjoy the ambience of poetry reading (albeit in Maltese, but it’s about expression rather than understanding) and accordion music, amid the scenic backdrop of the castle ruins. Or if that doesn’t appeal, work up an appetite by making the short hike on the St. Peter’s Trail up to St. Peter’s Church above the village or take one of the theme trails in the area.

Also as part of the Pranger Festival, an art market will take place in Linhart Square in Radovljica from 10 a.m. on Saturday 27th September.

More about the Pranger Festival here (in Slovene): https://www.radolca.si/sl/koledar-prireditev/festival-pranger and in English: https://pranger.si/en/

Sunday 28th September is the main day of Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, when there will be over 25 stalls in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town – where you can try and buy a whole range of food, gluten-free of course, though you won’t know it!

In addition, there will be a series of cookery demonstrations and talks (English translation will be available for the latter), a magician, live music and more.

For more information and to make bookings for any of the workshops, talks or lunches/dinners, get in touch by sending an email to glutenfreeexposlo@gmail.com

Here’s a glimpse into last year’s Expo.

Please do come along to say ‘Hi’ and to support me/us in our endeavours to put Slovenia on the gluten-free map of the world!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Renovated Shepherds’ Trail

The Begunje Shepherds’ Trail (Pastirska pot) is one of my favourite of all the hiking trails in the Radol’ca area. The variety of the terrain, the stunning views, and the fact that it is entirely circular all add up to one great hike!

Unfortunately, during the major floods that affected large parts of Slovenia in August 2023, the trail sustained significant damage and was closed for around a year. It reopened in 2024, though the lower part of the trail in particular was almost unrecognisable. Since then, significant work has taken place and I’m pleased to be able to say that the trail is now better than ever.

The trail begins at the head of the Draga Valley in Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can park and set off on foot on the 10.2km trail. You will soon see a red sign to Preval, where you cross the stream and from then on follow the usual red and white circular trail markers. You soon reach one of the new bridges.

The trail then begins to lead up through the forest, passing a cascade of the stream.

Now comes the hardest part of the trail, though following the floods it is actually better equipped than previously, with steel rope and rungs, so isn’t that difficult providing you have good footwear and are reasonably agile.

I wouldn’t recommend doing this hike after heavy rain, as the next part involves crossing the stream in several places, which is perfectly doable when water levels are low.

After cross the streaming one last time, you reach a rest area with a bench.

Next you reach a giant fir tree, so giant, in fact, there was no way or being able to photograph it from within the confines of the trail, so you’ll just have to visit and see it for yourself! The statistics on the signpost below give the facts and figures: circumference 347 cm, diameter 110 cm, quantity of wood 12.5 m3, height 35 metres.

After about an hour and 15 minutes of hiking, you emerge onto a mountain pasture, home to the Koča na Prevalu mountain hut, where you can quench your thirst and/or enjoy a hearty pasture-style meal. This is one of first of four mountain huts that you pass on this trail – note: the huts are open daily during summer, but out of season some are closed whilst others open at weekends only. You can find out here what’s available to eat on Radovljica’s mountain pastures.

Now follow the forest road to the left for about 10 minutes, then take the path branches off to the right and begins to climb up again on the path marked as ‘čez Roža’. You are soon rewarded with wonderful views of the Radovljica Plains, the Jelovica plateauLake Bled, and the Julian Alps with Triglav National Park.

The scenic path is level in places, with a few ups and downs and a few gullies to cross. Shortly before the end of the čez Roža trail, you reach an abandoned manganese mine shaft with an information board, which, at the time of writing (July 2025), was looking at bit worse for wear.

Just a few minutes after passing the mine shaft, the trail joins the main trail that leads from the valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut and on to Mt. Begunščica or you could follow the trail back down to the valley, thus completing the circular route.

I’d like to end this blog by saying a big ‘Thank you’ to all those of you who read my last blog and sent such lovely messages of congratulations.

Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Our Romantic Radovljica Wedding!

Yes, you did read the title correctly! After 18 years in Slovenia, last year I finally found ‘Mr Right’, or rather we found each other. One thing led to another and we tied the knot last Saturday, 21st June, where else but in Radovljica.

Following the proposal, there was no doubt in my mind that we would get married in Radovljica – the town that I have called ‘home’ for the past 18 years since moving from the UK to Slovenia in 2007.

My dad, about to give me away!

So, we set about the planning, which, fortunately was relatively easy. Well, as relatively easy as planning a wedding can be, involving guests from 4 different countries!

Of course, in addition to the usual wedding arrangements, with both of us having coeliac disease, as well as several of the guests, the next question that arose during the planning stage was where to hold the reception; it had to be somewhere where I knew I could trust and rely on the staff to ensure the food served was 100% gluten-free with no risk of contamination. The fall out (literally!) of many guests, including the bride and groom, being contaminated with gluten doesn’t even bear thinking about.

Fortunately, I already knew where I wanted to hold the reception and following a quick phone call, it was settled. The venue would be Gostišče Draga in the Draga Valley in Begunje na Gorenjskem.

As there were guests from various countries, our aim – apart from having a wonderful day ourselves – was for it to be as relaxed and informal as possible, and for people to mingle. Therefore, we arranged a pre-wedding event, with drinks and nibbles, at Gostilna Avguštin in the heart of Radovljica’s old town centre – Linhart Square.

After a quick change to clothing for me, we then went a few doors along for the ceremony, which was held in Šivec House, which houses a gallery on the ground floor and a small wedding hall upstairs.

Waiting for the bride to arrive!

Anton looking very happy and excited! To my left is my brother.

Throwing confetti is not allowed in Linhart Square, but thankfully one of the guests had taken care of that and brought rose petals from her garden.

On the way to the restaurant in the Draga Valley, we stopped at Kamen Castle for a few photos.

We were all pretty hungry by the time we reached the restaurant, so were glad of the delicious homemade mushroom soup, and vegetable soup, that awaited us upon arrival.

All the food was so delicious that had we not let on, I’m sure none of the guests would have known it was gluten-free. Gostišče Draga is a member of the Taste Radol’ca collaboration. The photos don’t really do it justice, but, trust me, it was delicious, and we even had gluten-free štruklji and Wiener schnitzel, which was a real treat for us coeliacs among the wedding guests! We’d like to extend a huge thank you to owner and chef Ales Tavčar and his team at Gostščce Draga.

We didn’t opt for a tradition wedding cake but instead a selection of desserts, ordered from Italy via Kotiček dobrot in Kranj; all gluten-free of course, and equally delicious.

To continue the theme of mingling, we had come up with a couple of games for wedding guests, which went down a treat and meant everyone – regardless of their nationality – was able to join in. And finally, as the evening was coming to a close, the obligatory group photo!

So, as you can see from the above, and speaking from experience, Radovljica really is the perfect place for a wedding! For a larger and grander wedding, Radovljica Manor is the perfect choice. More information about weddings in Radovljica click here.

© Adele in Slovenia

Tasty and Tuneful at Avsenik!

I’ve been living in Slovenia for 18 years now and during that time I’ve visited the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem, just a few kilometres from where I live in Radovljica, hundreds of times, mainly because it’s a great place to start various hikes in the Karavanke mountains.

I’ve also visited and blogged about many of the attractions and sights of interest in the village, such as the hike up to St. Peter’s church and on to Smokuški vrh; hiking and cycling in the Draga Valley; the Museum of Hostages in Katzenstein Mansion; the Elan Alpine Ski Museum

I’ve never, until last week that is, been for a meal at the Pri Jožovcu Avsenik Inn and Restaurant, which is part of the Avsenik complex – concert hall, guest accommodation, restaurant, bar – renowned for its highly popular Oberkrainer music, which still lives on today through younger generations of the Avsenik family.

To be honest, I was under the impression that Avsenik is so popular due to its music that its food isn’t so important; more of just an added extra. Well, I stand to be corrected. We were both very pleasantly surprised at the excellent standard of the food and service on our visit last week, and even more pleasantly surprised that they cater so well for those of us who need gluten-free food (in our case due to us both having coeliac disease). The waiter was very knowledgeable about what we could and couldn’t eat, took time to explain how they prepare the food, and reassured us that we were in good hands.

We started with delicious mushroom soup, made using mushrooms from the surrounding hills and mountain pastures.

For main course we chose two dishes that we could share; we always do that as it means we get the best of both worlds!

Calves’ liver and roast potatoes; the former was so tender it melted in the mouth.

Shepherds’ lunch is a hearty dishes consisting of pork fillet fried with onions, potatoes, and cabbage salad with bacon.

After our meal we took time to have a nose around the interior and exterior of the complex.

We weren’t able to visit the Avsenik Museum, as it was closed during our visit; for fans of Avsenik music a visit to the museum is a ‘must’.

Slavko in Vilko Avsenik

Outside, there’s a small play area for children too.

This year the highly popular Avsenik Festival will take place from 28th to 30th August. More than 20 national and international ensembles play concerts in the marquee over the three-day event. The festival sells out very quickly so, if you’d like to go, be sure to buy your tickets online soon!

Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

Restaurant Week is Here!

Considering its relatively small size, Radovljica and its surroundings – collectively known as Radol’ca – are certainly well endowed in culinary terms.

So, it’s no surprise that the year’s Spring Restaurant Week, which began on 21st March 2025 and ends on 30th March 2025, features an impressive five restaurants from Radol’ca among the more than 100 participating restaurants: Gostišče Draga, Hiša Linhart, Restavracija Šobec, Vila Podvin, Restavracija Tabor.

The ethos of Restaurant Week, which takes place twice per year – in spring and autumn – is to bring together some of Slovenia’s finest restaurants to highlight the country’s excellent cuisine and bring gourmet food closer to the general public by offering special menus at affordable prices.

To help you choose which one, or ones, to visit, here’s a little more information about each one, from my layperson’s point of view!

Gostišče Draga, located in the lush Draga Valley, is headed up by chef and owner Ales Tavčar. In the past the restaurant was particularly popular in summer, as the valley remains pleasantly cool even on the hottest of days, but nowadays it has become well-known throughout the country and beyond and is popular year-round.

A lot of the ingredients used come from the family farm – Kmetija Lizokar – thus truly adopting the ‘farm to fork’ approach.

May be an image of cold frame and seedlings

In addition to food cooked in the restaurant, you can also take the taste of Gostišče Draga home with you, by buying some of it’s ready meals sold in jars, such as beef goulash, Bolognese sauce, various stews and pickled vegetables.

No photo description available.

Hiša Linhart is a Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of Linhart Square in Radovljica’s old town centre. Masterchef Uroš Štefelin and his team focus on transforming traditional Slovenian ingredients into nouvelle cuisine.

I’ve been fortunate enough to eat there on a few occasions, the last of which was as part of Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, which took place in Radovljica in September 2024 and which I organise(d). The entire menu, part of which you can see below, was gluten-free.

 

Restavracija Šobec is located at the highly popular and award-winning Šobec Camp. The restaurant is far from the average campsite restaurant. It is now open year-round, even when the camp is closed, and out of the main season, has also become popular among locals for Sunday lunches, dinners, various celebrations, weddings, etc.

Although the menu offers pizzas and other traditional Slovenian dishes, Restaurant Week is the time when the chefs can showcase their best culinary skills.

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Out of season, the camp is also a pleasant place for a stroll.

Vila Podvin is located in Mošnje, just a few kilometres from Radovljica. In the past the building was a stables, but now offers gourmet food and luxury accommodation.

It was formerly run by the team who are now at Hiša Linhart, and I must confess that I haven’t been there since it came under new ownership, so can’t comment first-hand. However, it received a good write up from the food critics Uroš and Violeta Mencinger, who are the organisers of Restaurant Week.

May be an image of text that says "屋 P VILA PODVIN ገ restavracıj teden 21.3. 30.3.2025"

Restavracija Tabor is a seafood restaurant, which is located in Podbrezje, very close to but not actually within the municipality of Radovljica, but due to its excellent food and ethos, it has earned its place among Taste Radol’ca restaurants.

UME

Although the menu is largely seafood-based, there are also some meat dishes available.

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Room are also available, and the restaurant’s garden is the ideal place to soak up the views of the surrounding countryside and hills.

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Of course, there are also plenty of restaurants in other areas, and with 7 days still to go, get browsing, choose and book! You can read more about all the participating restaurants here.

Finally, just a heads up, it’s not long now until the ‘sweetest’ event of the year in Radovljica – The Radovljica Chocolate Festival. This year’s festival takes place on 12th and 13th April. The programme is packed with entertainment for all the family. Click here for more information.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

 

What Not to Miss in 2025 in Radol’ca and the Surroundings

For my first blog of the year 2025, I decided to start with an overview of all the year holds in store here in Radovljica and the surroundings, so that you can put important dates in your diaries (does anyone still use paper diaries these days? Perhaps I should say into your online diary!) and plan your visit.

I’m a bit late for January, so to make it up to you, here’s a photo I took this morning from St. Peter’s Church, above the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Photo: Adele in Slovenia

Even though we should be in the midst of winter, the weather at the moment is very much spring-like. Whilst winter in the capital, Ljubljana, often means days on end of heavy fog, here in Radovljica we are fortunate that we mostly avoid the fog, and even if it does appear, we don’t have to go far to get up above it.

Photo: Adele in Slovenia

So, here’s a snapshot of whats on in 2025 in Radol’ca.

February

Of course, the month of love and romance!

If you prefer not to waste money on overpriced flowers and soppy cards, then how about treating your loved one to a Valentine’s Day Meal and/or Getaway at one of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants, such as Hiša Linhart in Radovljica or Gostišče Draga in the Draga Valley, both of which have special Valentine’s menus.

Hiša Linhart in Radovljica

February in Slovenia also means carnival time and carnival time means doughnuts!

Among the most popular doughnuts in Slovenia are those at Trojane, about an hour’s drive from Radovljica, which is famous for its super-sized jam- and custard-filled doughnuts.

The date of pust, as carnival time is called in Slovene, varies from year to year and can be in either February or March, but is always on a Tuesday 47 days before Easter (Shrove Tuesday). One day later, on Ash Wednesday, some begin a 40-day fast. And because pust precedes a period of fasting, carnival time involves copious amounts of fried food, mainly doughnuts, krostule and fritule.

March

Every year during carnival time, a Shrovide carnival procession takes place through the streets of Radovljica, as well as numerous other towns and villages throughout the country. This year’s procession will take place on 1st March. You can read more about carnival celebrations elsewhere in Slovenia here.

April

April in Radovljica is all about chocolate!

The annual 2-day Radovljica Chocolate Festival is the highlight of the year for many chocoholics. This year’s festival will take place on 12-13th April 2025.

April also means Easter, which is particularly late this year; Easter Sunday is on 20th April. You can read more about coloured Easter eggs and other Easter traditions in a blog titled Easter in Slovenia, which I wrote last year.

May

Spring is a great time to start spending more time outdoors, and in the Radovljica area and surroundings, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to hiking trails and cycling routes.

Among my favourite hikes in spring, well actually in winter too, are the trails to Suharna, Roblek, and Talež.

June

The Radovljica Craft Beer Festival takes place in Radovljica’s park, close to the historic old town. The festival is a coming together of craft beer, street-food, music and socialising.

The international Shake the Change Swing Festival is another very popular event in Radovljica. This year’s 2-day festival will be on 20th and 21st June.

July and August

Summer in Radovljica means Thursdays in the Square, featuring live music and Taste Radol’ca street food, as well as free open-air cinema screenings at various locations throughout the municipality.

September

Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia in Radovljica is the place to be for those with coeliac disease, gluten intolerance or who avoid gluten for any other reasons.

 

Last year’s Expo attracted visitors from far and wide, and this year’s event will feature, among others, cookery workshops run by a gluten-free provider from Algeria.

This year’s Expo in Radovljica will take place on 27th and 28th September. Visit the Expo website here, and you can also read more about last year’s event here, on a brand new website by a lady from Poland, who, together with her family, attended the 2024 Expo and loved it so much they plan to come back again this year. Thanks Dora!

October 

Culinary Autumn in Radovljica includes culinary events and guided experiences at local farms, restaurants, dairy farms and more.

November

The Taste Radol’ca Month of Local Menus includes two unique Taste Radol’ca culinary experiences and local menus featuring traceable ingredients at 7 restaurants for a set price.

Gostišče Tulipan in Lesce

December

The festive season begins with the switching-on of the lights, which is always a really popular event in Radovljica, as well as elsewhere in the country. The entertainment programme over the festive season in Radovljica includes a small Christmas market, various street shows, live music and more.

For more information about all the events scheduled for this year, click here.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Brezje Among the Best; Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia Reportage

I’m delighted to be able to say that Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, which I organised last month in Radovljica, was a great success, but more on that later! First other news…

The village of Brezje, home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, is Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary. In addition to the basilica, the village has numerous other attractions, all of which helped it recently win an award from the Tourist Union of Slovenia (TZS) for being among the most well-kept visitor attractions in the country.

Aside from the main attraction – the aforementioned basilica – the village is also home to the Brezje Nativity Museum

…the Canticle of the Sun Gallery

…the Brezje Path of Peace (Pot miru), which leads to the Peričnik waterfall …

and the Otoče-Brezje Pilgrimage Trail (Bozja pot od Otoč do Brezij).

In addition, Brezje is now host to an exhibition devoted to the 70th anniversary of the time when the Avsenik Brothers first started creating a completely new form of writing and playing Slovenian national folk music. Of course, the ‘real’ home of Avsenik’s music is Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Avsenik Museum and/or attend one of the many music events.

Now, back to Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia! As I mentioned above, the 2-day event was a great success, so I’d love to share a few photos with you.

We began on Saturday with an international gluten-free cookery workshop, during which the participants, led by Danica Rozman, assisted by volunteers from the Slovenian Coeliac Assocation, Gorenjska branch, prepared a whole array of traditional Slovenian foods, gluten-free of course, for the evening reception to follow.

We then moved from the neighbouring village of Naklo to Radovljica, where we held an international reception and concert in the Baroque Hall of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

The reception was attended by visitors from Malta, Hungary, Algeria, Bosnia and Poland, all of whom bought some gluten-free food with them from their country, so that we could all try some of their goodies!

After the reception, some of us crossed over to the other side of Linhart Square for gluten-free dinner at Hiša Linhart, cooked by the Michelin-starred chef Uroš Štefelin and his team.

On Sunday – the main day – there were 27 stalls in Radovljica’s park and a packed programme of entertainment, workshops and talks for all generations. In short, gluten-free heaven for all! Don’t let anyone ever tell you gluten-free food can’t be delicious and varied!

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Below you can watch a short video of Sunday’s Expo.

The Expo was the first event of this year’s Culinary Autumn in Radovljica. You can find more about other events here.

That’s all from me for now. Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia