Brezje Among the Best; Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia Reportage

I’m delighted to be able to say that Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, which I organised last month in Radovljica, was a great success, but more on that later! First other news…

The village of Brezje, home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, is Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary. In addition to the basilica, the village has numerous other attractions, all of which helped it recently win an award from the Tourist Union of Slovenia (TZS) for being among the most well-kept visitor attractions in the country.

Aside from the main attraction – the aforementioned basilica – the village is also home to the Brezje Nativity Museum

…the Canticle of the Sun Gallery

…the Brezje Path of Peace (Pot miru), which leads to the Peričnik waterfall …

and the Otoče-Brezje Pilgrimage Trail (Bozja pot od Otoč do Brezij).

In addition, Brezje is now host to an exhibition devoted to the 70th anniversary of the time when the Avsenik Brothers first started creating a completely new form of writing and playing Slovenian national folk music. Of course, the ‘real’ home of Avsenik’s music is Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Avsenik Museum and/or attend one of the many music events.

Now, back to Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia! As I mentioned above, the 2-day event was a great success, so I’d love to share a few photos with you.

We began on Saturday with an international gluten-free cookery workshop, during which the participants, led by Danica Rozman, assisted by volunteers from the Slovenian Coeliac Assocation, Gorenjska branch, prepared a whole array of traditional Slovenian foods, gluten-free of course, for the evening reception to follow.

We then moved from the neighbouring village of Naklo to Radovljica, where we held an international reception and concert in the Baroque Hall of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

The reception was attended by visitors from Malta, Hungary, Algeria, Bosnia and Poland, all of whom bought some gluten-free food with them from their country, so that we could all try some of their goodies!

After the reception, some of us crossed over to the other side of Linhart Square for gluten-free dinner at Hiša Linhart, cooked by the Michelin-starred chef Uroš Štefelin and his team.

On Sunday – the main day – there were 27 stalls in Radovljica’s park and a packed programme of entertainment, workshops and talks for all generations. In short, gluten-free heaven for all! Don’t let anyone ever tell you gluten-free food can’t be delicious and varied!

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Below you can watch a short video of Sunday’s Expo.

The Expo was the first event of this year’s Culinary Autumn in Radovljica. You can find more about other events here.

That’s all from me for now. Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

A Radol’ca Ridge Hike

When the heat is on, as it is now in much of Europe, morning hikes in the forest are a perfect way to start the day before it gets too hot.

The hike I’ve described below is partly in the forest and partly along a ridge, and in places requires a bit of scrambling, but the views are so wonderful it makes the effort worthwhile.

I started by cycling from Radovljica, then started my hike in Begunje na Gorenjskem, where I left my bike outside the Tourist Information Centre.

I then hiked up to St. Peter’s Church and onwards to the Sankaška koča mountain hut and further to the Smokuški vrh viewpoint.

From the viewpoint I carried on along the ridge in a westerly direction.

Initially, the trail is easy to follow through the forest, but in places along the ridge it is quite rocky and a couple of times I found myself wondering if I’d reached the end of the trail as it seemed to disappear, but after scrambling past a few rocks the trail continued.

There are views all around – towards the Jelovica plateau, Bled and the Julian Alps to the south…

…towards Mt. Stol and the Završnica valley to the north…

…and towards Jesenice and the Upper Sava Valley to the west.

If you’d like to make it a circular route – regular readers will know I’m obsessed with circular trails! – then continue until you descend to the point see in the photo below.

At this point you could opt to turn right to reach Titova vas (Tito’s Village), more about that here.

Alternatively, turn left and follow the trail back towards the Sankaška koča mountain hut, following the occasional sign for the Juliana long-distance hiking trail.

Follow the trail uphill and, shortly before returning to the hut, you will see the following sign, where you turn right.

Hiking poles and appropriate hiking shoes or lightweight hiking boots are required for this hike.

Click here for more information about hiking in the Radol’ca area.

© Adele in Slovenia

A New Look for Old Kropa

While at first glance the former iron forging village of Kropa, in the Lipnica valley, may appear to be a sleepy backwater, a closer look reveals it has plenty to offer. Add into the mix the ‘world’ above the village, on the Jelovica plateau, and there’s more than enough to see and do for a short stay in the village or as a base for exploring the surrounding area.

If you are looking for a budget option, the village is now home to a new hostel – Bajta Kropar’ca – as seen below.

The hostel, which has a total of 38 beds (33 in seven rooms and 5 in a small apartment), is housed in a renovated house, in a quiet location in close proximity to the village centre and the Kroparica stream. The shared areas have a well-equipped kitchen and dining room, featuring an original farmers’ stove, which, in addition to the handmade furniture, provides a homely and warm feeling.

Hostel Bajta Kroparica - Book directly

Elsewhere in the village itself you can visit the Iron Forging Museum, the Vigenc Vice forge, the Fovsaritnica Museum House, and the Mosaic Exhibition Gallery.

To explore the world above Kropa, you can choose from one of the many hiking trails up to the Vodiska planina mountain pasture. One of the paths begins from the Slovenska peč smelting furnace, as seen below, before first leading to the source of the Kroparica stream.

As part of the activities during Coeliac Awareness Month, the Slovenian Coeliac Association organised various activities through the month of May, one of which (which, as vice-president and acting president of the Gorenjska branch of the association, I suggested and organised!), was a hike up to the Partizanski dom mountain hut on the Vodiska planina mountain pasture, where they serve a-m-a-z-i-n-g gluten-free štruklji!

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Trust me, for coeliacs, being able to feel ‘normal’ and eat in a mountain hut, in the knowledge that the food has been prepared carefully by someone who is well aware of the steps necessary to avoid contamination, is like winning the lottery! Thank you Heidi Kardoš!

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No doubt our smiles say it all!

For one of the best vantage points around, and a particularly good spot to await sunrise, take a hike (or drive) up to the village of Jamnik, home to the Church of St. Primus and Felician.

Until next time…!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Slovenian Culture – Radol’ca-style!

Slovenia takes its culture seriously, and this is most visible every year on 8th February when the country celebrates Prešeren Day – a national cultural holiday – dedicated to its most treasured poet, France Prešeren.

Various events take place throughout the country, the largest of which are in Kranj and Vrba. The former is nowadays known as Prešeren’s Town, while the latter was his birthplace.

In Vrba, which is in close proximity to Radovljica, every year on 8th February people flock from around the country to take part in a 10-kilometre walk along the Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Trail. The trail begins at Prešeren’s birth house

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…then continues via fields and country paths to the birth houses of Žirovnica’s other famous men as well as Anton Janša’s apiary.

The Prešernov smenj fair in Kranj also attracts huge crowds. The event is dedicated to all-things from Prešeren’s time; music, dance, clothing, food …

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Throughout the country all museums offer free admission on 8th February to enable everyone to be part of Prešeren Day.

The Radol’ca area has more than its fair share of museums; 12 to be precise (excluding galleries):

Museum of Apiculture, Radovljica

Municipal Museum, Radovljica

Pharmacy and Alchemy Museum, Radovljica

Lectar Workshop and Museum, Radovljica

Iron Forging Museum, Kropa

Fovsaritnica Museum House, Kropa

Sextons’ Museum House, Kamna Gorica

Museum of Hostages, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Elan Alpine Ski Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Avsenik Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Ethnological Museum, Mošnje

Nativity Museum, Brezje

While deciding what to do this year on 8th February, I realised that I had been to all the above museums, except one – the Municipal Museum. So, it was time to tick that one off the list too!

The museum is dedicated to Radovljica’s most well known (former) resident – Anton Tomaž Linhart: The 18th century was a time of great change in Europe. One of the central characters in the then Carniola was Anton Tomaž Linhart from Radovljica, the father of Slovenian theatre and scientific historiography.

The museum is located on the first floor of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

If I’m honest, it had probably never occurred to me to visit the museum as I thought that since it’s all dedicated to one person, there is only so much you can hear and see about that person. But, I stand corrected! Though the content is indeed dedicated to Anton Tomaž Linhart, it is also an opportunity to find out about life, clothing and customs in the eighteenth century.

And to have a bit of fun dressing up too!

Upon prior arrangement, guided tours are available in Slovene, German and English.

Our national day of culture may be over for this year, but there are hundreds of (other) museums throughout Slovenia to explore throughout the year.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Festive December in Radovljica

There are towns and cities that roll out the same old Christmas lights and decorations year after year, and then there’s Radovljica, which goes to great lengths to come up with a new theme and/or decor for the festive season in the old town every year.

Despite the best attempts by the weather to dampen our spirits, people still turned out en masse yesterday evening, albeit significantly less so than in previous years, to see the switching on of the Christmas lights.

The switch on was followed by an amazing concert by the band Help! A Beatles Tribute. I can’t remember the last time I sung my heart out and bopped non-stop for two hours like I did last night!

This year, Linhart Square – the heart of the old town – is adorned with handwoven wreaths, garlands and decorations made of willow. This year’s highlight are the beautiful hand painted window displays, the work of the local academic artist Meta Šolar, which have turned the old town centre into an outdoor gallery.

Photo: Turizem Radol’ca

Photo: Turizem Radol’ca

But, of course, that was just the start to the festive season, there’s plenty more still to come!

Did you know that in Slovenia there are three ‘good men’ who visit during the festival season; St. Nicholas, Father Christmas and Grandfather Frost? The first of the three, St. Nicholas, ‘delivers’ presents to children on 6th December, while Father Christmas, as we all know, comes down chimneys on Christmas Eve. For those of you who haven’t heard of Grandfather Frost (I hadn’t either before moving here!), it is said that the home of this legendary character, whose roots are in Slavic mythology, is in Russia. He brings gifts for New Year, a custom that dates back to the times when Christmas wasn’t celebrated publicly, rather behind closed doors, in the former Yugoslavia.

The first of the three ‘good men’ will arrive in Radovljica on Sunday 3rd December, when a St. Nicholas Fair will take place from 10am to 7pm, including a visit by St. Nicholas himself, and at 5pm a puppet show titled ‘A Winter Fairy Tale’.

A small Christmas market will take place every Saturday and Sunday through the month of December, and on some dates there are additional activities, such as workshops and street performances.

On Sunday 17 December, the ARTISH Fair will take place from 11am to 6pm. On the same day, from 4pm to 6pm, you can see the CHRISTMAS CARAVAN with Radovljica’s firefighters, all of whom are volunteers and who have been more than heroic this year dealing with the numerous occasions when very heavy flooding has occurred.

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On Friday 22nd December, in addition to the Christmas Market from 3pm to 9pm, there will be a live concert by FED HORSE, and Taste Radol’ca street food.

On Christmas Day, Monday, 25th December, why not walk off your Christmas dinner by taking a stroll to watch a street performance by Ana Snezna, and on Tuesday 26th December, you can visit the Christmas market from 3pm to 7pm, including a street performance at 5pm by ČUPAKABRA.

Photo: Turizem Radol’ca

On Wednesday 27th December, Jan the Magician and Grandpa Frost visit Radovljica. 

And that brings us to New Year’s Eve, when celebrations will kick off in Linhart Square from 10pm.

Come and join in the festive fun, and for those of you unable to make it, I wish you a joyful festive season and a very Merry Christmas!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Klanc Castle – The Ruins of A Secret Gutenberg Stronghold

“Klanc Castle? What? Where? Never heard of it!”

That’s pretty much the response you will get from most Slovenes if you say you are going to visit Klanc Castle, which is also known as Glanz Castle and Novi Gutenberg. In fact, I’d put money on it that the majority, if not all, of those reading this blog – whether in Slovenia or elsewhere – won’t have heard of it.

So, let me enlighten you! Actually, it’s pretty much down to one man that I came to hear of it, and it’s thanks to him that the ruins of this hidden castle have been (re)discovered.

For the past few years, the Municipality of Radovljica has offered local inhabitants an opportunity to put forward suggestions for new projects, the so-called ‘Participative Budget’. Inhabitants can then vote for the project they would like to see become a reality, and the projects that get the most votes in each area of the municipality then receive funding so they can go ahead, albeit these things don’t happen overnight.

One such suggestion came from Sašo Gasperin, formerly director of the Šobec Camp, who now works at the Radovljica Tourist Board. In addition, he is a member of the local tourist association in Begunje na Gorenjskem and a tourist guide, who is fluent in both English and German. Thanks to his excellent knowledge of the Begunje area, Sašo’s suggestion was that the area containing the ruins of Klanc Castle is made accessible and equipped with information boards, so visitors can find out about the history of this hidden castle. Fortunately, his suggestion was adopted and the municipality subsequently bought the land on which the castle ruins are situated. The project was taken on by the architect Maj Juvanec, and Sašo helped helped with sources/resources, advice and, believe it or not, a chain saw!

So, who better than to guide us on a walk to see the castle ruins than the man himself – thanks Sašo!

The best place to start the walk is at the Begunje Tourist Information Centre in the centre of the village, which is where you will find the first yellow sign showing the way to the castle (grad Klanec).

TIC Begunje

From here continue on the pavement and past the church, where you turn right, then head in a diagonal direction towards Mt. Dobrča. You reach the village shrine, dedicated to four patrons to mark the four parish churches.

Continue in the direction of the foothills of Mt. Dobrća, with magnificent views towards the Draga valley, until you reach the road that runs from Begunje na Gorenjskem towards Tržič. Cross the road then take the marked path, as shown below.

I’ve taken this path many, many times, hence I was astonished to discover that the caste ruins are just metres away and I never even knew! People certainly knew how to strategically place castles, fortresses, etc. in bygone days.

It really is best to arrange a guided tour by contacting the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre, as you, like me, might find the ruins hard to spot, and also because that way you will certainly get the most out of the visit. However, there are now signs, so if you are up for the challenge and keep your eyes peeled, you might just find them!

The castle dates from the 14th century and was abandoned in the 17th century. The name Gutenberg comes from the German name for Mt. Dobrča (good mountain) – German: guten berg, Slovenian: dobra gora.

The castle complex originally consisted of a rectangular, unfortified tower court with a few farm buildings. After two major construction phases, it expanded into a complex, the ruins of which have been partially preserved to this day.

It also makes a lovely place to sit and contemplate the world, and, on a fine day, enjoy the view(s)!

I won’t reveal everything, since you can discover it for yourself, hence above there is just enough to whet your appetite! For more information about Klanc Castle, nearby Kamen Castle and all the other sights and attractions in the area, visit https://www.radolca.si/en.

© Adele in Slovenia

Super Saturday in Radovljica!

Last Saturday, 4th February 2023, was Super Saturday in Radovljica for numerous reasons – for me and for many others too!

Our day started with an early morning hike to the Suharna viewpoint on the Jelovica plateau. We set off on foot from Radovljica, and before reaching the start of the trail in Kolnica in the Lipnica valley, we were lucky enough to see a rare rainbow cloud formation. Having enlightened myself (well, Googled it), I discovered this occurs due to cloud iridescence. If you want to know more, Google is your friend, or you can just admire the photo!

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At this time of year a pair of lightweight crampons certainly comes in handy, as the trails are very icy in parts at lower altitudes, whilst up higher (higher than the Jelovica plateau) there is still A LOT of snow.

From Suharna, we first took the path towards the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, but soon turned off that path and took the one down to Kamna Gorica. On reaching the village we then headed up to the Zijavka viewpoint, from where there are lovely views over the village and church.

It was a really sunny day and not too cold, though abnormally windy; Radovljica is usually fairly well sheltered in terms of wind, but last Saturday was an exception, so we were glad of our flask of tea to warm us up. We then headed back to Radovljica via the Fux footbridge over the Sava river and back to Linhart Square, i.e. the heart of the action!

The Radol’ca market takes place on the first Saturday of each month in front of St. Peter’s church in Linhart Square. Since moving from its former location at Vila Podvin in Mošnje it has become increasingly popular. This month I persuaded the organisers (Tourism Radol’ca) to let me arrange a gluten-free corner at the market and, fortunately, they agreed! There were a total of 23 stalls, four of which featured gluten-free goodies – doughnuts, cake pops, bread, rolls, pastry, profiteroles, biscuits galore and more! I advertised the event via the Facebook group that I set up for coeliacs (Celiakaši v Sloveniji), as did each of the four stallholders, but, wow, I/we, weren’t expecting it to be such a hit! They pretty much sold out in less than an hour, and there was me asking the organisers for a one-hour extension to 1pm instead of the 12noon!

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In addition to the gluten-free corner, the market features local producers and suppliers of various fruit, vegetables, cheese and other dairy products, dried meat products, honey, herbs, teas and more – something for everyone!

Some of us – stallholders and fellow coeliacs – then went for to Kavarna Vidic in Linhart Square for a cuppa and a chinwag, during which we planned future such events, of which there will be many!

We then headed home for some lunch before heading out again, well it was such a lovely day (except the wind!) for a walk to the Šobec camp, which is lovely in winter too, before returning alongside the Sava river back to Radovljica.

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It’s amazing how much you can pack into a day in Radovljica; hiking, fab views, good (gluten-free) food, socialising, walking and more!

© Adele in Slovenia

R&R in Radovljica!

It occurred to me recently that among all the hundreds of blogs I’ve written about Radovljica and the surroundings throughout the years, the large majority have been about active pursuits – my love of hiking, cycling and, of course, food!

However, somewhere along the line I’ve overlooked the fact that Radovljica and its surroundings is also a great place for some R&R – that’s rest and relaxation to you and me!

Of course, what is one person’s idea of R&R can be at polar ends of the spectrum to another, so below I’ve suggested some ways you can include R&R, wellness and well-being, into your visit to the Radovljica area.

Pampering

Massages, facials and more! There are quite a number of beauty salons in the Radovljica area, where you can relax, be pampered and/or be smothered in honey or even mud!

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Cryotherapy 

Numerous sportspeople use cryotherapy, as it is said to help promote faster healing of injuries and can also help with muscle pain and some joint and muscle disorders.

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And here in Radovljica you can try cryotherapy at the Rož’ca salon at the Radovljica Sports Park, where you can also have various massages, magnet therapy and more.

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Wellness and saunas

The small, family-run Sport Hotel Manca is the place to go for a sauna in Radovljica. It has a Turkish, Finnish and infrared sauna, as well as a whirlpool.

The Torok guest house and spa is located in nearby Hraše. Upon prior booking, the wellness area, which features a jacuzzi and Finnish sauna, is also open to non-residents.

Swimming

At the time of writing, the Radovljica Olympic-size swimming pool is undergoing renovation, but is nonetheless open to the public for recreational swimming during the week from 8pm to 10pm and at weekends from 9am to 12noon and from 4pm to 7pm.

In winter the pool is covered, while in summer it is open-air. The pool hosts a wide range of competitions, including national championships, training camps and other events.

Letni bazen Radovljica

The aforementioned Sport Hotel Manca also has an outdoor pool, where in summer you can cool off in the water then sit back and soak up the views of the surrounding mountains.

Bazen

After a day on the slopes in winter, a hike in the Karavanke mountains (whatever the season) or a mountain bike ride on the Jelovica plateau in summer, or even just because ‘you’re worth it’, we all deserve a bit of pampering from time to time, right?!

© Adele in Slovenia

Let The Train Take The Strain!

With the world becoming, or trying to become, ever ‘greener’, many of us are trying to do our bit here and there, including taking public transport, where possible.

The great news is that Radovljica is really well connected, so it’s an ideal place to base yourself for getting around Slovenia and even further afield.

In addition to Radovljica’s new railway station, Slovenian Railways also introduced some new trains late last year. The first journey took place on the new electrified KISS trains, produced by the Swiss producer Stadler, on the Ljubljana-Litija line. The trains are renowned for their improved comfort, spaciousness and functionality, as well as panoramic windows for a literal ‘seat with a view’.

Na slovenskih železnicah prvi novi dvonadstropni električni vlak - Zelena Slovenija

Within minutes of stepping off the train at Radovljica’s railway station you can reach Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

It takes less than an hour to reach Radovljica from Ljubljana (or vice versa), or in the other direction, you can go to Jesenice and from there to Villach in Austria and onwards. In the opposite direction, i.e. from Ljubljana, you can travel to Maribor or Celje – Slovenia’s second and third largest cities respectively – or to Zagreb in Croatia and further.

Below I’ve put together a few suggestions of what to see and do by train (and bus) in the local area.

Take the train from Radovljica to Globoko, where you can visit the Barbana Stud Farm to see the famous white Lipizzaner horses.

Lipizzaner Stock Photos, Pictures & Royalty-Free Images - iStock

From Globoko you can either return by train or walk back through the Forest Nature Trail.

Take the train from Radovljica to Otoče, then walk the Otoče to Brezje Pilgrimage Trail.

On reaching Brezje, you can see Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary – the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians – as well as the Nativity Museum, then return to Radovljica by bus.

Take the bus from Radovljica to Bled, so much easier than searching (and paying!) for somewhere to park. I’m sure I don’t need to tell you about Bled’s ‘star attraction’!

Take the bus from Radovljica to Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Elan Alpine Skiing Museum, the Avsenik Museum, and the village is also an excellent destination for hiking in the Karavanke mountains, for example to St. Peter’s church above the village, on the Lamberg Trail past Kamen Castle to the Draga Valley, from where you can continue up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut or even higher up to Mt. Begunscica.

Photo: Miran Kambic

Of course, there are numerous other options, which, for travel in the Radol’ca area, the lovely folk at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre can help you with, or for travel further afield take a look at the Slovenian Railways website to get some more ideas of what to see and do.

So, why not sit back and let the train take the strain?!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

The Sky Isn’t the Limit at Lesce Sports Airfield!

The annual open day and model aircraft competition took place at Lesce Sports Airfield on Monday this week – Assumption Day.

We went along to watch some of the amazing model aircraft, which, apart from the size, could easily be mistaken for the real thing!

One can only imagine the hours upon hours of painstaking labour, not to mention patience and precision, that go into making such models.

In addition to the model aircraft show and competition, visitors also had the chance to see aircraft up close…

…and even a chance to sit inside!

I managed to get a shot of a model aeroplane and real aeroplane almost in unison, which perfectly illustrates the likeness of the former to the latter. Can you work out which one is which?!?!

Although the event has now been and gone for this year, you can still visit the airport at anytime to just observe the comings and goings while enjoying a drink and/or meal at the excellent on-site Na Klezn’k restaurant. A great meal with a great view!

You can also treat yourself to a panoramic plane or helicopter flight above Lake Bled, the Karavanke mountains, the Julian Alps and the wider Gorenjska area. For more information send an email to: info@alc-lesce.si

Various other events and competitions are held at the airfield throughout the year, including an annual paragliding competition.

Photo: Skydiving Source

Click here to read more about gliding above the Alps.

In addition, the airport’s location on the Radovljica Plains provides excellent conditions for gliding.

So, another place to add to your ‘must visit’ list whilst in the Radol’ca area!

© Adele in Slovenia