Reading in Radovljica: Dormice, Moonshine and More!

When I first moved to Slovenia I was eager and curious to learn more about the country’s history, people, culture, customs and more. At that time, however, books on Slovenia were very few and far between, almost non-existent, other than lengthy, history-heavy books that (almost) require a degree in ‘Slovenology‘ to understand.

Since then, a book titled ‘Slovenology‘, written by an American living in Slovenia, has actually been written, and I enjoyed reading Erica Debeljak’s self-penned memoir Forbidden Bread, but thereafter the list of what I deem ‘readable’ books on Slovenia dried up. That is, until now!

I was therefore delighted to discover a new book about Slovenia, written by a fellow Brit, Sam Baldwin, titled Dormice and Moonshine. I was even more delighted when Sam got in touch with me recently and we sat down together in Radovljica for a chat about what attracted us to Slovenia and life as an expat here.

When not working or hiking-cycling in summer, I like to find time to read, preferably outdoors. There are numerous viewpoints with benches in and around the old town centre of Radovljica, which are ideal for relaxing, soaking up the views and reading. In the heat of summer, there’s nowhere better than the tree-lined avenue in Radovljica’s park.

Arboristična nega dreves v grajskem parku - radovljica.si

For the ultimate view, head to the viewpoint at the end of historic Linhart Square, from where there are wonderful views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and further towards the Julian Alps with Mt. Triglav at the helm.

Another of my favourite viewpoints is located in the public car park between Gostilna Kunstelj and the old town centre.

Now, back to the topic of Dormice and Moonshine! I read the first few chapters in one sitting and can honestly say it’s by far my favourite book on Slovenia, not least because, like me, Sam fell in love with the country mainly due to its wonderful nature and various peculiarities, of which dormice and moonshine are among them! The tale of how he and his brother discovered Slovenia and how they ended up buying a sausage-curing hut, and what followed, is thoroughly entertaining. His encounters with ‘Mr. North’ and the ‘Wine Cowboy’ had me giggling out loud and are a ‘must read’! The only other book(s) that have had that effect on me are by Bill Bryson. So, if, like me, you are a Bryson fan, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy Dormice and Moonshine.

Why the title Dormice and Moonshine? Well, that would be giving too much away, so you’ll have to order a copy and read it for yourself to find out!

With summer in full swing, and 30 degrees temperatures to boot, here are some additional ideas for how and where to keep cool in the heat!

It’s always cooler atop a mountain, well, other than when there is an inversion during winter. So, hiking, particularly in forested areas, is a great way to escape the worst of the heat. But do take clothing with you for all four seasons, as it’s not unheard of to need hats and gloves in the mountains, even in mid-summer, as the temperature and conditions can change very quickly.

Or set off on one of the many theme trails in and around the Radovlijca area, such as the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Radovljica’s renovated Olympic swimming pool, which is open-air during summer, as well as the Kropa swimming pool are particularly popular with children at this time of year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

In nearby Tržič, you can descend into the Dovžan gorge, where you follow the course of the Tržiška Bistrica stream for a short distance, and can take the chance to cool off in the refreshing (read: freezing!) water!

But I must end with a word of caution. This year there have (already) been a record amount of rescues in Slovenia’s mountains, many of which have involved tourists who are very poorly equipped and/or have underestimated the mountains or overestimated their abilities. Please don’t be one of them! All the mountain rescuers here are volunteers. Do your homework before setting off. Check the forecast. If you are going on a long hike, or a multi-day hike, be sure to take clothing for all four seasons, as the weather can change very quickly. BE PREPARED!

© Adele Gray

A New Era for Radovlijca’s Olympic Swimming Pool

Radovljica’s Olympic swimming pool officially reopened last Friday. The renovation works included the construction of an entrance complex with a restaurant, an indoor therapy pool and new changing rooms and toilets – both for the pool and the campsite.

The pool was originally designed by the local architect Ivan Vurnik. It was built in 1932 and is considered one of his most notable projects. The most distinguishing feature, which at its time was considered a daring feat of engineering and architecture, was the high diving platform. The platform was demolished in 1966 but Radovljica’s Olympic-size swimming pool lives on today in the same location.

The first phase of the new pool was opened in style last week, when visitors were given free access to explore all areas, including the new heated therapy pool, which is a great asset as it will also be used for patient physiotherapy by the Radovljica Health Centre.

Visitors to the opening event were invited to watch a training session take place in the new indoor pool.

It was a double celebration last week, as this year Radovljica Swimming Club marks its 90th anniversary. During this time, the club has produced many Olympic-winning swimmers, as can be seen below. I, however, am not one of them!

The wind orchestra of the Radovljica music school and the Lesce wind orchestra helped to keep visitors entertained during the opening event.

Slovesnost ob zaključku prve faze rekonstrukcije kopališča

The pool was officially reopened by Radovljica’s mayor, Ciril Globocnik, seen below in the pink shirt, who himself was a former swimmer before going on to become a swimming coach, a selector for Slovenia’s swimmers on the international scene, sports director of the Radovljica Swimming Club, and, since 2010, our mayor.

May be an image of one or more people, clarinet, violin, flute and hospital

The mayor also blew the whistle to mark the inaugural lap of the outdoor pool (which isn’t actually new but it was nonetheless a fitting occassion), which featured swimmers of all ages, from the very young…

Slovesnost ob zaključku prve faze rekonstrukcije kopališča

…to the oldest, who is even older than the Radovljica Swimming Club itself, and who, of course, got the biggest applause!

Slovesnost ob zaključku prve faze rekonstrukcije kopališča

During a recent visit to Radovljica, the president of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia, Franjo Bobinac, confirmed his support for the project to reconstruct the swimming pool. He announced that the committee will strive to ensure that reconstruction continues and that the municipality will be granted part of a 150 million euro package of funds that will be allocated for this purpose over the next five years.

In summer the open-air pool is very popular with children and those seeking a way to keep cool, while in winter the pool is covered, so swimming coaching and recreational swimming can continue throughout the year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

Camp Radovljica is situated right next to the pool, making it an ideal place to stay in summer, as guests of the camp have free use of the pool.

Click here to can find out more about the Radovljica swimming pool, as well as other pools in the surrounding area.

Summer has finally arrived, better late than never, and schools are out for summer this Friday, so what with the pool(s) and surrounding forests, plateaus and mountains, there’s no better place to keep cool in the heat than Radovljica!

© Adele in Slovenia

R&R in Radovljica!

It occurred to me recently that among all the hundreds of blogs I’ve written about Radovljica and the surroundings throughout the years, the large majority have been about active pursuits – my love of hiking, cycling and, of course, food!

However, somewhere along the line I’ve overlooked the fact that Radovljica and its surroundings is also a great place for some R&R – that’s rest and relaxation to you and me!

Of course, what is one person’s idea of R&R can be at polar ends of the spectrum to another, so below I’ve suggested some ways you can include R&R, wellness and well-being, into your visit to the Radovljica area.

Pampering

Massages, facials and more! There are quite a number of beauty salons in the Radovljica area, where you can relax, be pampered and/or be smothered in honey or even mud!

CIMG0932

Cryotherapy 

Numerous sportspeople use cryotherapy, as it is said to help promote faster healing of injuries and can also help with muscle pain and some joint and muscle disorders.

May be an image of 5 people

And here in Radovljica you can try cryotherapy at the Rož’ca salon at the Radovljica Sports Park, where you can also have various massages, magnet therapy and more.

May be an image of 2 people

Wellness and saunas

The small, family-run Sport Hotel Manca is the place to go for a sauna in Radovljica. It has a Turkish, Finnish and infrared sauna, as well as a whirlpool.

The Torok guest house and spa is located in nearby Hraše. Upon prior booking, the wellness area, which features a jacuzzi and Finnish sauna, is also open to non-residents.

Swimming

At the time of writing, the Radovljica Olympic-size swimming pool is undergoing renovation, but is nonetheless open to the public for recreational swimming during the week from 8pm to 10pm and at weekends from 9am to 12noon and from 4pm to 7pm.

In winter the pool is covered, while in summer it is open-air. The pool hosts a wide range of competitions, including national championships, training camps and other events.

Letni bazen Radovljica

The aforementioned Sport Hotel Manca also has an outdoor pool, where in summer you can cool off in the water then sit back and soak up the views of the surrounding mountains.

Bazen

After a day on the slopes in winter, a hike in the Karavanke mountains (whatever the season) or a mountain bike ride on the Jelovica plateau in summer, or even just because ‘you’re worth it’, we all deserve a bit of pampering from time to time, right?!

© Adele in Slovenia

Fit and Fun in Radovljica!

For many people, no doubt the thought of exercising on holiday couldn’t be further from their minds; then there are those of us for whom being active is a way of life, and whether at home or away, we like to find ways of ensuring we stay fit and healthy whilst also having fun!

So for those of you who fit into that bracket – myself included – Radovljica is the perfect destination!

As is widely known and acknowledged, the key to keeping fit is to find an activity, or activities, that are enjoyable, so taking part doesn’t feel like a chore and we are more likely to stick with it.

With the beautiful backdrop of the Karavanke mountains and the Jelovica plateau, as well as the Sava river and the Draga and Lipnica valleys, there are myriad outdoor sports and activities right on the doorstep or within close proximity of Radovljica, so here are some ideas:

HIKING – the Jelovica Plateau, the Karavanke range, or the nearby Julian Alps

WALKING and/or RUNNING – from short strolls or runs on theme paths such as the Sava River Trail, to long cross-country rambles and runs

CYCLING – of all types, mountain biking, road biking, endless possibilities

FISHING on the Sava river

HORSE RIDING or horse and carriage rides – get to know Lipizzaner horses at the Barbana stud farm in Globoko, or go riding at the Mošnje Horse Centre – just two among the places offering horse riding in the area. More here – http://www.radolca.si/en/in-the-company-of-horses/

WATER SPORTS – rafting, kayaking, canoeing

Other adrenalin-fuelled activities –  paintball, zip line, zorbing, caving, climbing

ARCHERY – on the parcour course in the tranquil Draga valley. Find out more here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/04/10/archery-adventures-and-delicious-draga-delights/

SWIMMING at the Olympic size swimming pool in Radovljica – open-air in the summer, covered in the winter; or at the Kropa outdoor pool

PARACHUTING and PANORAMIC FLIGHTS over the Julian Alps from Lesce Sports Airfield

Find out more about sport, recreation and fun in the area here and I wish you fit and fun adventures in Radovljica! – http://www.radolca.si/en/sport-recreation-and-fun/

© Adele in Slovenia

What’s On in Radovljica June 2017 – A Lot!

Here’s a round-up of the latest news and events taking place in June 2017, of interest to both visitors and locals, in my lovely home town of Radovljica as well as the surrounding towns and villages. I apologise in advance for the long blog, but there’s so much going on!

Any running enthusiasts out there? The annual Radovljica 10k run takes place this year on Friday 23rd June. The race is even featured on the Run International website, since, despite being the smallest event it lists, it is included for having ‘a particularly-beautiful setting’. The route goes through and around the town, from where there are fantastic views of the Sava river, the Julian Alps, the Karavanke mountains, and the Jelovica plateau. You can read more about the event here – http://www.runinternational.eu/2017-calendar/june/2851-radolska-10ka-2017

Every Tuesday you can join a FREE guided tour of Radovljica’s historic old town centre. The tour begins at 10am at the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre at the entrance to the old town in Linhart Square (Linhartov trg).

An exhibition titled ‘Terra Mystica’ is on view in the Radovljica Mansion in the old town until 2nd June. The exhibition showcases products made at the children’s ceramics biennial.

Talking of ceramics, the Festival of the Strength of the Earth (previously known as the Ceramics Festival) took place last Saturday. The main market event took place in Linhart Square, where visitors could see and buy products such as ceramic ware, herbs, seeds, natural cosmetics, and teas.

Photo: Boris Pretnar

Whilst workshops took place at the biodynamic garden at the town primary school.

Photo: Boris Pretnar

The annual month-long Vurnik Days (Vurnikovi dnevi) begins on 1st June in memory of the architect Ivan Vurnik who was born in Radovljica in 1884. Vurnik helped found the Ljubljana School of Architecture and, together with his wife, Helena Kottler Vurnik, they went on to design many notable buildings in Radovljica, as well as further afield in Slovenia.

Radovljica’s swimming pool was built in 1932 and is considered one of Vurnik’s most notable projects. The most distinguishing feature, at its time considered a daring feat of engineering and architecture, was the high diving platform. It was demolished in 1966 but Radovljica’s Olympic-size swimming pool lives on today, in the same location, though in a somewhat more modern form.

Another of his works is the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians in Brezje, built in the period from 1965 – 1967, which is today the most renowned pilgrimage centre in Slovenia. In 1988 it was elevated to the status of basilica by Pope John Paul II. More here – http://www.radolca.si/en/brezje/

The opening event will take place in the Šivec House Gallery on 1st June at 8pm where an exhibition of the work of Ivan and Helena Vurnik will be officially opened by Radovljica’s mayor. More about the gallery can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/radovljica-sivec-house-gallery/

All month there will also be a special Vurnik Tasting Menu available at Vila Podvin restaurant. More information here – http://www.vilapodvin.si/

The first Outdoor Cinema (Letni kino) will take place at Linhart Hall (Linhartova dvorana) on Friday 23rd June at 9.30pm when the film The Beatles: 8 Days a Week will be screened. And even better, this kick-off film, that you can enjoy sitting outdoors in the courtyard, is FREE.

On 23rd June the annual Midsummer’s Eve Festival will take place in the shelter of the ruins of Kamen Castle in Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Photo: Miran Kambic

And all this is in addition to the usual natural, historical and cultural sights of the Radovljica area – the historic old town centre, the stunning views of the Karavanke mountains, the Julian Alps, the Sava river, the countless walking, hiking and cycling routes, and the delicious local food on offer at Taste Radol’ca restaurants.

I know, it’s hard to know where to start!

© Adele in Slovenia

Wine Tasting and other Activities in Radovljica

Gorenjska, the alpine region of Slovenia, isn’t exactly known for its wine, but fortunately here in Radovljica we have the Sodček Wine Shop where wines from all the wine-growing areas of Slovenia can be found under one roof. Sodčcek is located right at the entrance to the historic old town centre and offers something for all wine lovers. Though not a big wine drinker myself, I love this place for its really homely atmosphere, there’s no wine snobbery here, and you are made just as welcome whether you just pop in for a relaxing glass of wine or a coffee, to enjoy a wine tasting session with accompanying karst ham and cheese, or to peruse the wide selection of wine to take home or to buy as a gift.

CIMG8521          CIMG8524

Last week, to mark the dual occasion of Sodček’s 20-year anniversary and the opening of a new private tasting room, a private party was held in conjunction with Fine Food Bled. Guests enjoyed some of the best Slovene wines presented by winemakers from around the country, as well as being treated to amazing food prepared by Fine Food Bled who operate a seasonal restaurant at Penzion Berc in Bled. The presentation of the food was top-notch as well as it being extremely tasty too, and all the more remarkable for it being prepared outside on an open grill.

CIMG8510          CIMG8518

For anyone who missed the 4th Radovljica Chocolate Festival last weekend (there were 50,000 of you that didn’t!), and/or for those that came and would like to relive it, you can watch this video to see some of the highlights. Watch carefully to find out the date of next year’s festival!  https://youtu.be/c9FEVPtUCaU

As you can see from this article –  http://www.siol.net/trendi/odkrivaj_slovenijo/kam_cez_vikend/2015/04/radovljica_v_znamenju_festivala_cokolade.aspx

– which is all in Slovene but those reading this outside of Slovenia should at least get the gist from the pictures, there really is plenty to see and do in Radovljica for lovers of all things outdoors. I was having a quick tot up over the weekend and all these activities, and probably more, are available in, or within the immediate vicinity of Radovljica:

  • Hiking – The Jelovica Plateau, the Karavanke, the nearby Julian Alps
  • Walking/Running – from short strolls by the Sava river or in the forest to long rambles and runs
  • Cycling – of all types, mountain biking, road biking, endless possibilities
  • Fishing on the Sava river
  • Watersports – rafting, kayaking
  • Other adrenalin activities –  paintball, zip line, zorbing
  • Winter sports – skiing, cross-country skiing, ice-skating, snowshoeing
  • Caving
  • Climbing
  • Swimming at the Olympic size swimming pool – open-air in the summer, covered in the winter
  • Parachuting and Panoramic flights over the Julian Alps from Lesce Sports Airfield

That’s just the outdoors things of course – many of which I enjoy and am able to take advantage of since they are all just on my doorstop – but there’s plenty more to see and do too!