52 Shades of Radovljica – Part One!

The COVID-19 lockdown in Slovenia, which from 30th March meant that we were not allowed out of our municipalities, was finally lifted today, hooray! Of course, we aren’t out of the woods yet; strict social distancing measures are still in place, we still have to wear masks in enclosed places, there’s still no public transport, schools are still closed…but things are gradually beginning to open and get back to some degree of normality.

Other than a somewhat uncomfortable feeling of a loss of freedom, fortunately, it actually didn’t affect me too much since I work from home and the municipality of Radovljica has so much to offer in terms of the great outdoors. In addition to my usual local haunts, it was actually quite interesting working out and planning just where (and where not) I could hike and cycle. I was surprised to discover that the municipality of Radovljica comprises a whopping 52 towns, villages and hamlets!

This gave me an idea for a blog – well actually two – in which I will photograph and describe (in brief!) each – or most – of the 52. A task-and-a-half indeed! So, in alphabetical order, here is the first half!

Begunje na Gorenjskem – one of the bigger villages in the municipality, with plenty to see and do! The birthplace of Slovenian national folk music, home to the Avsenik Museum, the Elan Alpine Skiing Museum, the Draga valley, Kamen Castle, and more.

Brda – a small hamlet at the start of the Lipnica valley near Lancovo.

Brezje – this village, though small, is considered Slovenia’s national pilgrimage site and is home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians as well as the Nativity Museum.

Brezovica – a hamlet in the Lipnica valley near Kropa.

Češnjica pri Kropi – follow the windy road up to this sunny settlement for wonderful views of the Karavanke mountains.

Črnivec – a small village near Brezje with a pizza place and a restaurant.

Dobravica – a small hamlet near Češnjica pri Kropi.

Dobro Polje – another small hamlet, this one is near Brezje.

Dvorska vas – a small settlement near Begunje, home to the Lambergh Chateau and Hotel.

Photo: http://www.radolca.si

Globoko – a small settlement, which is home to the Barbaner Lipizzaner stud farm and the Globočnik homestead, which is about as traditional and homely as it gets!

Gorica, just a handful of houses but also a great mini golf course!

Hlebce and Hraše – two small settlements between Lesce and Begunje that I often confuse as they are located parallel to each other and both start with the letter ‘H’!

Kamna Gorica – sometimes also referred to as Slovenia’s ‘Little Venice’ due to its numerous water channels, the village is also home to the Sextons’ Museum House and the Church of the Holy Trinity, from where there are great views of the surrounding hills and mountains.

Kropa – the cradle of Slovenian iron forging. Home to the Iron Forging Museum, two churches, the Vigenjc vice forge, and numerous water sources that served the needs of the forges in their heyday.

Lancovo – home to the confluence of the Sava Dolinka and Sava Bohinjka rivers.

Lesce – plenty of restaurants, a sports airfield, the Church of the Assumption of Mary and the Beekeeping Education Centre of Gorenjska.

Lipnica – the lush Lipnica valley winds its way from Radovljica towards Podnart. Great cycling territory, either on the flat through the valley or by mountain bike on the forested Jelovica plateau.

Photo: http://www.radolca.si

Ljubno – known for its numerous frescoes packed into one small village, as well as the Church of Mary Help of Christians.

Mišače – I often pass through this peaceful hamlet when cycling through the Lipnica valley and back towards Radovljica via Globoko. In recent times a new ECO river camp has sprung up.

Mlaka – to be honest I’m not sure! I know of one area called Mlaka beneath the old town of Radovljica and a small hamlet beneath Mt. Dobrca, but not sure which one this is!

Mošnje – home to the fine dining restaurant Vila Podvin as well as the Mosnje Ethnological Museum, the Villa Rustica Archeological Trail and one of the oldest churches in Slovenia.

Nova vas pri Lescah – a small hamlet between Radovljica and Begunje.

Noše – a small hamlet near Brezje.

Otoče – a small village with a railway station on the main line between Ljubljana and Jesenice.

Ovsiše – located on sunny plains above the Lipnica valley and home to the Porta organic farm.

So, as you can see, there’s far more to Radol’ca than just Radovljica – and that’s just the first half! My work here is not yet complete! Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

18Jul2017

Fit and Fun in Radovljica!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, adeleinslovenia, Begunje, cycling, cycling in Slovenia, Hiking, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, Julian Alps, Karavanke, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Rivers in Slovenia, Sava river, Slovenia, Theme paths, Visit Radol'ca by adeleinslovenia

For many people, no doubt the thought of exercising on holiday couldn’t be further from their minds; then there are those of us for whom being active is a way of life, and whether at home or away, we like to find ways of ensuring we stay fit and healthy whilst also having fun!

So for those of you who fit into that bracket – myself included – Radovljica is the perfect destination!

As is widely known and acknowledged, the key to keeping fit is to find an activity, or activities, that are enjoyable, so taking part doesn’t feel like a chore and we are more likely to stick with it.

With the beautiful backdrop of the Karavanke mountains and the Jelovica plateau, as well as the Sava river and the Draga and Lipnica valleys, there are myriad outdoor sports and activities right on the doorstep or within close proximity of Radovljica, so here are some ideas:

HIKING – the Jelovica Plateau, the Karavanke range, or the nearby Julian Alps

WALKING and/or RUNNING – from short strolls or runs on theme paths such as the Sava River Trail, to long cross-country rambles and runs

CYCLING – of all types, mountain biking, road biking, endless possibilities

FISHING on the Sava river

HORSE RIDING or horse and carriage rides – get to know Lipizzaner horses at the Barbana stud farm in Globoko, or go riding at the Mošnje Horse Centre – just two among the places offering horse riding in the area. More here – http://www.radolca.si/en/in-the-company-of-horses/

WATER SPORTS – rafting, kayaking, canoeing

Other adrenalin-fuelled activities – paintball, zip line, zorbing, caving, climbing

ARCHERY – on the parcour course in the tranquil Draga valley. Find out more here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/04/10/archery-adventures-and-delicious-draga-delights/

SWIMMING at the Olympic size swimming pool in Radovljica – open-air in the summer, covered in the winter; or at the Kropa outdoor pool

PARACHUTING and PANORAMIC FLIGHTS over the Julian Alps from Lesce Sports Airfield

Find out more about sport, recreation and fun in the area here and I wish you fit and fun adventures in Radovljica! – http://www.radolca.si/en/sport-recreation-and-fun/

© Adele in Slovenia

8Jan2017

Genuine warmth, hospitality and Slovenian food at Globočnik

Posted in adeleinslovenia, ifeelsLOVEnia, Okusi Radol'ce, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Restaurants, Tourist farms in Slovenia by adeleinslovenia

On a cold winter’s evening, I recently paid a(nother) visit to the Globočnik Excursion Farm (Izletniška kmetija Globočnik), where there is always a guaranteed warm welcome together with genuine hospitality and traditional Slovenian food – I just love this place!

Situated in the tiny hamlet of Globoko, next to the Sava river, this centuries-old farmhouse is extra cosy during the winter thanks to the log fire and wood-burning stove. The house dates back to 1628 and contains an original black-kitchen.

The house really has a unique ambience and you feel right at home from the minute you step inside, much in part to the owner Cene – a larger-than-life character with a wealth of tales to tell – ably assisted by his wife, Nika.

On the day I visited, they were holding their annual demonstration and tasting of ‘koline‘ – the traditional preparation of various sausages from the winter pig slaughter. As you can see from the photo below, at Globočnik, it is still done the traditional way.

A lot of muscle is required, though, so it’s ‘all hands on deck!’

On this annual traditional day, one of the farm’s neighbours, who is known as a ‘star bread baker’ also comes to join in to ensure there is delicious just-baked bread to accompany the meat feast! With that many years experience of bread baking under her belt, you just know it’s going to be great bread!

Made in the traditional way and using original equipment together with lots of TLC!

And the results speak for themselves!

As was the rest of the food, which sure hits the spot on a chilly winter’s night!

I could still just about do up my jeans after the feast! And yes, that is flour all over my jumper, nothing like getting stuck in!

The atmosphere was made even warmer thanks to zither and accordion music.

And beautiful singing which soon had people up on their feet!

For the past 2 years, Globočnik has also been one of the participating Taste Radol’ca restaurants, where the focus is on locally produced ingredients.

Dishes available include cold-cut platters and various soups to start; main courses such as grilled sausages, black-pudding, roast pork, stewed beef or roast duck, goulash, tripe, and various stews; a wide selection of side dishes such as steamed sauerkraut, roast potatoes, turnips, buckwheat with mushrooms, cheese štruklji; and desserts such as apple strudel and stuffed apples with walnuts and honey.

Note – The Globočnik Excursion Farm is only at weekends (or at other times upon prior arrangement) and reservations are essential. Unfortunately, however, the website is in Slovene only, and somewhat outdated – top marks for food and hospitality but technology really isn’t their thing, though we forgive them – so the best bet is to call 040 736 930 and if you need any help or more information, you can always turn to me and I’ll endeavour to help.

© Adele in Slovenia

2Nov2016

Taste Radol’ca 2016: The Opening – Too Many Cooks DON’T Spoil the Broth!

Posted in adeleinslovenia, Food, Gostilna Kunstelj, ifeelsLOVEnia, Lesce, Okusi Radol'ce, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Restaurants, Taste Radol'ca, Tourism Radol'ca by adeleinslovenia

Now in its 4th year, Taste Radol’ca keeps going from strength-to-strength and has really enlivened the month of November – a traditionally quiet month in the hospitality industry – in the restaurants in Radovljica and its surroundings.

This year there are 13 restaurants as part of the Taste Radol’ca ‘family’, all of which combined to cook up an incredible feast at the opening dinner held last Friday at Vila Podvin. It turns out that ‘Too many cooks don’t spoil the broth, they actually improve it!’

The evening began with a local farmers and craft market, with tastings of food provided by the Globočnik Excursion Farm (Izletniška kmetija Globočnik) and Gostilna Avguštin.

Live music was provided by the band ‘Suho cvetje’, who entertained visitors throughout the evening with their unique style of music.

At 7pm we were ushered to our seats in the restaurant for the main event, whereby each dish was concocted and cooked by the Taste Radol’ca chefs, teaming up to create the culinary sensations you can see below.

The first course was chilled smoked trout, buckwheat ice-cream served on a blini, and beetroot and horseradish – prepared by Grajska Gostilnica and Tulipan Inn.

Next came quail soup with a quail’s egg and julienne vegetables, prepared by Draga Inn and the Krek Restaurant.

The third course was calves liver with onion, polenta, salad and edible flowers – prepared by Lectar Inn and the Lambergh Restaurant.

To cleanse our palates in preparation for the main course we were then served a ‘juniper berry sorbet’, which wasn’t actually a sorbet at all, but a creamy and clever spin on one, courtesy of Kunstelj Inn.

Finally, already fairly bursting at the seams, it was time for the main course! Cheek of pork, tarragon struklji and caramelised vegetables – prepared by Vila Podvin and the Avsenik Pri Jožovcu restaurant.

And, the dessert was certainly worth waiting for! A unique and delicious take on a plum strudel with curd cheese, vanilla cream, served with cinnamon ice-cream – prepared by Joštov Hram and Gostilna Tavčar.

But that was just the start! Now comes a whole month of eating and trying out the delicious-sounding Taste Radol’ca menus at all 13 restaurants!

Well, actually, I think 13 in one month might even be a bit beyond me, but I’ll give it a try, I’m always up for a challenge, especially where food is involved!!!

The participating restaurants are:

Gostilna Kunstelj, Radovljica
Gostilna Avguštin, Radovljica
Gostilna Lectar, Radovljica
Grajska Gostilnica, Radovljica
Gostišče Tulipan, Lesce
The Krek Hotel and Restaurant, Lesce
The Globočnik Excursion Farm, Globoko
Joštov Hram, Podnart
Draga Inn, Begunje na Gorenjskem
Gostilna Tavčar, Begunje na Gorenjskem
Gostilna Avsenik – Pri Jožovcu, Begunje na Gorenjskem
Lambergh Chateau and Hotel, Dvorska Vas
Vila Podvin, Mošnje

More information about Taste Radol’ca can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/okusi-radolce-2016/83/2053/ (in Slovene), and here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/taste-radolca-2016/83/394/ (in English).

© Adele in Slovenia

2Nov2015

Taste Radol’ca 2015 is GO!!!

Posted in Okusi Radol'ce, Taste Radol'ca by adeleinslovenia

This year’s Taste Radol’ca kicked off with a bang on Friday night with the opening event held at Lambergh Chateau & Hotel in Dvorska vas.

The evening started with a market, where local producers and suppliers to the 11 participating restaurants offered their products to taste and buy and the talented Taste Radol’ca chefs rustled up some tasty warming morsels to satisfy the peckish!

Entertainment was provided by the popular singer Nuša Derenda, in the lovely setting of the chateau grounds.

The main event then began – the opening Taste Radol’ca 2015 dinner – all 6 courses of it! The event was a complete sell-out, with all 90 places in the restaurant taken.

The ethos of Taste Radol’ca is collaboration between restaurants and the use of local produced products. All the products used in the opening dinner, as well as those in the menus that are available at each participating restaurant for the entire month of November for a set price of just 15 euros for three courses, are local.

The starter was prepared by the Globočnik Excursion Farm from Globoko.

The next courses was a rainbow of trout with buckwheat hearts – prepared by Kunstelj Inn and Lectar Inn. Almost too pretty to eat!

Next came the chestnut soup with mushrooms, just perfect for these autumn days, prepared by Tulipan Inn and Joštov hram.

A farmer’s plate followed – prepared by Hotel Krek and Draga Inn.

By now we were all beginning to burst at the seams but the delicious food kept coming! This dish comprised many elements including veal with mushrooms in cannelloni, cheek of calf, potato foam, barley and vegetables – courtesy of Lambergh Chateau & Hotel and Vila Podvin.

And finally the dessert. It’s funny how however stuffed one is, we somehow always manage to find room for dessert, don’t we! Dessert was prepared by Grajska gostilnica, from right here in Radovljica, and the restaurant ‘Pri Jožovcu’ – home of Avsenik in Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Suffice to say a great night was had by all and that was just the start. Now we have the whole month of November to try out the Taste Radol’ca menus at all the 11 participating restaurants and, if you manage to eat at 7 during the month, you can earn yourself automatic entry to the Taste Radol’ca Closing Party on 4th December at Joštov hram. So get eating and tasting the local culinary delight of Radol’ca!

For more information and to see the menus click below and I wish you bon appetit!

http://radolca.si/kaj-poceti/dogodki/okusi-radolce/83/930/

@AdeleinSlovenia 2015

20Jul2015

All About Mošnje

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

After last year’s record washout of a summer, this year couldn’t be more different. Records are again being broken but this time for the number of consecutive day where the temperature is above 30 degrees. Currently, it looks like more of the same to come for the next week too.

If you are thinking of seeking water-based refreshment then currently the ever cool Sava river is a mere 15 degrees. the Soča river slightly warmer at 17 degrees and the Adriatic Sea at the Slovene coast a balmy 30 degrees.

I prefer to seek shade in the forest so, when I paid a visit yesterday to the newly renovated and remodelled Village Museum in Mošnje, I went via the Radovljica Forest Nature Trail – http://www.radolca.si/en/radovljica-forest-educational-trail/

For its size, the village of Mošnje packs in quite a number of sights of interest and things to do. The first place reached on entering the village is Vila Podvin where one of Slovenia’s top chefs, Uroš Štefelin, works his culinary magic. In addition to the usual culinary delights on offer, every Thursday during the summer Vila Podvin hold a Summer Steak and Chocolate evening, where, in the tranquil garden with a view of Podvin Castle, you can eat the finest steak and accompaniments, followed by chef Uroš’ heavenly signature chocolate dessert,

Vila Podvin also hosts a local market on the first Saturday of each month where the focus is on local products and produce.

Continuing through the village, passing Podvin Castle – which has sadly been abandoned for quite some time now – you pass the fire station and a pizzeria, before reaching the Church of St. Andrew, one of the oldest churches in Slovenia. http://www.radolca.si/en/mosnje-church/

Opposite the church is the Mošnje Village Museum which contains an ethnological collection and was recently refurbished. The museum can be visited by prior arrangement or, every Thursday during the summer, as part of the programme of the Hop-On Hop-Off tourist bus. For further information contact – tdmosnje@gmail.com or damjanapangerc@gmail.com

The best way to see the village and the sights of interest is to walk around the Mošnje Archeological Trail which leads around the village and to the Villa Rustica Archeological Site – http://www.radolca.si/en/mosnje-archaeological-trail/

After leaving Mosnje, the next village reached is Globoko, home to the Barbana Lipizzaner Stud Farm, (http://www.barbana.si/en) where Lipizzaner horses are bred, and the Globočnik Excursion Farm, a traditional farmhouse – also a member of Taste Radol’ca – that offers home cooking which can be enjoyed in the authentic black kitchen.

By prior arrangement, you can also arrive in Globoko by train, as the station is on the main line between Ljubljana and Jesenice, and be met by a horse and carriage from the stud farm for a ride to Mošnje and around the local area.

There are also several events that take place throughout the year in the village including the Midsummer’s Eve celebration, Mošnje Days Fete in September and Easter Games and Exhibition.

8Dec2014

Fine Art, Festivities and Food in Radovljica

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

Ok, I admit, ‘fine art’ probably isn’t exactly the right choice of word, ‘fine pottery’ would be a more accurate description, however, it had a nice ring to it as a title for this week’s blog and it goes some way to describing the skills of two of Radovljica’s stalwarts, Oli and Urban Magušar. The couple, who have long resided and operated a pottery workshop in Magušar’s House (Magušarjeva hisa) in Radovljica’s old town centre, have now finally opened a shop selling and exhibiting their, as well as other local artists, creations. I attended the shop’s opening last weekend and as well as being able to see the products up close, we were also treated to a BBQ in the courtyard! Who knew that the Magušars were such talents chefs as well!

The shop will be open throughout the year on Wednesdays and Fridays from 5-8pm, on Saturdays from 10am-1pm, and at other times by appointment. The arcaded house itself is also fascinating with its open courtyard and worth a snoop if you get the chance.

You can read more about Magušar’s House, as well as about Radolca’s other galleries and museums here – http://www.radolca.si/en/other-galleries/

Next, on to the ‘festivities’ part. Of course the festive season is now upon us and with Radovljica’s old town now adorned by Christmas lights, festive garlands and the like, the first of the Christmas events began on Friday with the official switch on of the Christmas lights, followed by the start of the small Advent Market. The Advent Market will take place every weekend during December and to accompany it there are a wide variety of events and entertainment for all the family including creative workshops for children, circus acts and street performers, concerts with live music, carol singing, and not forgetting the all important arrival of Father Christmas, accompanied by his elves on 21st December at 5pm. The full programme of festive events can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/festive-december-in-linhart-square/83/110/

And finally the ‘food’ part. Some weeks back I blogged about my visit to the Globočnik Excursion Farm in Globoko, which are now part of the Taste Radol’ca project. For the final weekend of this year’s Taste Radol’ca, they held a demonstration of sausage making; the traditional Slovene pečenice pork sausages and also black pudding krvavice. To accompany them, the farm’s neighbour and legendary bread maker came to do her magic with bread baked at its most simple with minimal ingredients and maximal care and attention. After mixing the bread in the specially made wooden vessel, it was then left to prove next to the warmth of the log burner before being baked in the stone oven. Once the sausages were cooked and the bread baked, there was a chance to taste them too. However, since I had to rush off to the opening of the pottery shop, I didn’t get a chance for a taste and therefore, not wanting to miss out completely, vowed to return the next day to polish off what was still left! I can contest that it was all delicious and even more so as I had seen everything being made and knew there were no nasty additives or hidden ‘E’ numbers, preservatives etc. Good, honest food at its best.

Don’t forget to get your entries in for the competition to find a new drink for Radol’ca. The competition is open to every one and you could win yourself a luxury weekend at Vila Podvin. More information here – http://radolca.si/en/radolca-drink-competition/

Need I even say that yet another week passed us by without so much as seeing the sky, let alone the sun. Since I’ve been a very good, hardworking girl this year, I’ve now written my wish list to Santa – I bet you can guess what is at the top of the list! And perhaps he has already received my letter because as I sit here writing today, I can now seem a glimpse of blue sky…..

17Nov2014

The Globočnik Excursion Farm (Izletniška kmetija Globočnik)

Posted in Uncategorized by adeleinslovenia

These days, people are more than ever looking for somewhere different to go, somewhere off-the-beaten track, away from the masses and the hubbub of modern life, and if that places just so also happens to serve great homemade food, then more so the better! So, this week I have the answer; The Globočnik Excursion Farm (Izletniška kmetija Globočnik). Situated in the tiny settlement of Globoko, next to the Sava river, the Globočnik farmhouse offers genuine, traditional, home-cooked and produced food, which can be enjoyed either outside, during fine weather, or in the centuries old farmhouse which is complete with an original black kitchen and in winter is toasty warm thanks to the log fire and wood-burning stove. The house dates back to 1628, as witnessed by the preserved stone on the façade of the house. The house really has a unique ambience and you feel right at home from the minute you step inside, much in part also to the owner, Cene, a larger-than-life character with a wealth of tales to tell, ably assisted by his wife and family.

The house is packed full of interesting artefacts, each of which have stories to tell, and many of which are from the time Cene spent working on the railways.

Other than the occasional distant rumble of a passing train, (Globoko station is just a few minutes away on foot making it easy to visit the farmhouse even for those without a car) the farmhouse is a haven of peace, surrounded by fields and forest, and a hark back to bygone-days. Just a few metres away is the Barbana Breeding House which is dedicated to the breeding of the famous white Lipizzaner horses and where, upon prior arrangement, visitors can take a horse and carriage ride – http://www.barbana.si/en/about-us

This year, Globočnik have also joined the Taste Radol’ca (Okusi Radol’ce) collaboration and therefore during the whole month of November, they are offering a special menu in addition to their regular range of dishes. The food on offer is rustic, hearty and plentiful – perfect for this time of year and for the Gorenjska climate.

Additionally, as part of Taste Radol’ca, on Saturday 29th November from 4-6pm Globočnik will be holding a demonstration and tasting of homemade sausages, made using home-reared pork, together with other goodies and homemade bread.

Dishes on offer at Globočnik include farmers mixed platter (cold meats, cheese, pate) and various soups to start; main courses include – farmers feast (grilled sausages, black-pudding, roast pork, stewed beef or roast duck), goulash, tripe, and various stews; a wide selection of side dishes such as steamed sauerkraut, roast potatoes, turnips, buckwheat with mushrooms, cheese štruklji; and, if you’re not bursting at the seams (which I was but of course still managed to find room for something sweet!) desserts on offer include apple strudel or stuffed apples with walnuts and honey.

Note – The Globočnik Excursion Farm is only open Friday, Saturdays and Sunday and prior reservations are essential. More information can be found here (in Slovene only) – http://www.globocnik.si/

Whilst in the area, you can also visit the village of Mošnje, home to the Villa Rustica Archeological Site – http://www.radolca.si/en/villa-rustica/ – and/or take a walk along the Mošnje Archaelogical Trail – http://www.radolca.si/en/mosnje-archaeological-trail/

They say the sun always come out after the rain but it was beginning to feel as if we would never see the sun again after 13 days of incessant rain, low cloud and general dullness. My Sunday morning began much as had the previous 13, lying in bed listening to the rain on the roof, and not feeling terribly enthusiastic about going for another walk clutching my umbrella. Imagine my delight then when I finally forced myself out of bed, lifted the blinds and saw blue sky and sun – even though it was still raining! And there was even a perfect rainbow to cap it off whose brilliant colours were the perfect way to banish the blues!

Adele in Slovenia

My life and adventures in Radovljica and throughout Slovenia

Tag Archives: Globoko

52 Shades of Radovljica – Part One!

Fit and Fun in Radovljica!

Genuine warmth, hospitality and Slovenian food at Globočnik

Taste Radol’ca 2016: The Opening – Too Many Cooks DON’T Spoil the Broth!

Taste Radol’ca 2015 is GO!!!

All About Mošnje

Fine Art, Festivities and Food in Radovljica

The Globočnik Excursion Farm (Izletniška kmetija Globočnik)