Category Archives: hiking in Slovenia

A Return to Radol’ca!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Begunje, Begunje na Gorenjskem, Bled, Christmas in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Karavanke mountains, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian mountain huts, The Julian Alps, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca, Žirovnica by

For those of you who don’t know, I moved to Slovenia, specifically Radovljica – from the UK – in 2007, and have lived here ever since. Well, that is up until 1st July this year when, due to being let down at the last minute re the purchase of a flat, also in Radovljica, we had to temporarily move elsewhere; albeit not far, just up the valley to Gozd Martuljek, near Kranjska Gora.

Whilst Gozd Martuljek is a true paradise – nature, peace and a wealth of outdoor opportunities, particularly the traffic-free cycle track into Italy – I don’t know anyone there and with the onset of winter, I was very pleased to return to the Radol’ca area early this November. To be able to again walk and cycle familiar routes, see familiar faces and feel at ‘home’ is priceless.

It wasn’t long before I was out exploring some of my favourite walks and hikes, a couple of which I’d like to share with you.

The first, and one of my regular ‘haunts’ starts near the Tourist Information Centre in Begunje na Gorenjskem, from where there are numerous trails leading up to St. Peter’s Church.

The church and the nearby Sankaška koča hut can be a destination in themself or you can continue, like I regularly do, onward to the Smokuški vrh viewpoint, from where there are wonderful views towards Lake Bled and the Julian Alps.

One of the most well-known mountain huts and hikes in the area is to the Roblekov dom mountain hut on Mt. Begunščica in the Karavanke mountains. Since I’ve been there many, many times, and since we have a joint passion for exploring lesser-trodden paths, we decided to approach it from the other side, i.e. from the Završnica Valley in the neighbouring municipality of Žirovnica.

By following the red and white circular trail markers, you can do a circular hike by taking the trail from the Završnica valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Before reaching the Poljška planina pasture, which is about halfway, the trail markers lead down towards the pasture before heading up again towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut. Alternatively, if, like us, you spot yellow markers on trees and opt to follow them, you will also reach the hut on a pleasant trail, though you do need to keep your eyes out for the markers.

To make the route circular, from the hut, hike down to the Poljška planina mountain pasture, from where you take the marked route towards the Sankaška koča hut, branching off for Smokuški vrh and following the ridge (as described in a previous blog here https://adeleinslovenia.com/2024/08/21/a-radolca-ridge-hike/), from where you can return to the Završnica valley.

Before setting off on these, or any other hiking trails in the area, be sure to take a look at the map of hiking trails and/or pop into the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre for more information, and be sure you are properly equipped, which means having good footwear too!

With winter fast approaching, too fast for my liking, if you are planning a visit to Slovenia, you might like to read my previous blog titled 5 Great Winter Hikes in Radovljica and the Surroundings.

The countdown to the festive season is on, and the Christmas tree in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town – is taking shape. The switching on of the festive lights will take place on 30th November, which is always a magical event for all the family.

©Adele in Slovenia

 

 

The Renovated Shepherds’ Trail

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Begunje na Gorenjskem, Hiking, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, Karavanke mountains, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian mountain huts, Tourism Radol'ca, Triglav National Park, Visit Radol'ca by

The Begunje Shepherds’ Trail (Pastirska pot) is one of my favourite of all the hiking trails in the Radol’ca area. The variety of the terrain, the stunning views, and the fact that it is entirely circular all add up to one great hike!

Unfortunately, during the major floods that affected large parts of Slovenia in August 2023, the trail sustained significant damage and was closed for around a year. It reopened in 2024, though the lower part of the trail in particular was almost unrecognisable. Since then, significant work has taken place and I’m pleased to be able to say that the trail is now better than ever.

The trail begins at the head of the Draga Valley in Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can park and set off on foot on the 10.2km trail. You will soon see a red sign to Preval, where you cross the stream and from then on follow the usual red and white circular trail markers. You soon reach one of the new bridges.

The trail then begins to lead up through the forest, passing a cascade of the stream.

Now comes the hardest part of the trail, though following the floods it is actually better equipped than previously, with steel rope and rungs, so isn’t that difficult providing you have good footwear and are reasonably agile.

I wouldn’t recommend doing this hike after heavy rain, as the next part involves crossing the stream in several places, which is perfectly doable when water levels are low.

After cross the streaming one last time, you reach a rest area with a bench.

Next you reach a giant fir tree, so giant, in fact, there was no way or being able to photograph it from within the confines of the trail, so you’ll just have to visit and see it for yourself! The statistics on the signpost below give the facts and figures: circumference 347 cm, diameter 110 cm, quantity of wood 12.5 m3, height 35 metres.

After about an hour and 15 minutes of hiking, you emerge onto a mountain pasture, home to the Koča na Prevalu mountain hut, where you can quench your thirst and/or enjoy a hearty pasture-style meal. This is one of first of four mountain huts that you pass on this trail – note: the huts are open daily during summer, but out of season some are closed whilst others open at weekends only. You can find out here what’s available to eat on Radovljica’s mountain pastures.

Now follow the forest road to the left for about 10 minutes, then take the path branches off to the right and begins to climb up again on the path marked as ‘čez Roža’. You are soon rewarded with wonderful views of the Radovljica Plains, the Jelovica plateau, Lake Bled, and the Julian Alps with Triglav National Park.

The scenic path is level in places, with a few ups and downs and a few gullies to cross. Shortly before the end of the čez Roža trail, you reach an abandoned manganese mine shaft with an information board, which, at the time of writing (July 2025), was looking at bit worse for wear.

Just a few minutes after passing the mine shaft, the trail joins the main trail that leads from the valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut and on to Mt. Begunščica or you could follow the trail back down to the valley, thus completing the circular route.

I’d like to end this blog by saying a big ‘Thank you’ to all those of you who read my last blog and sent such lovely messages of congratulations.

Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

 

What Not to Miss in 2025 in Radol’ca and the Surroundings

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, Begunje na Gorenjskem, Christmas in Slovenia, coeliac disease, EXPO, gluten free food in Slovenia, Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, ifeelsLOVEnia, Okusi Radol'ce, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian food, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

For my first blog of the year 2025, I decided to start with an overview of all the year holds in store here in Radovljica and the surroundings, so that you can put important dates in your diaries (does anyone still use paper diaries these days? Perhaps I should say into your online diary!) and plan your visit.

I’m a bit late for January, so to make it up to you, here’s a photo I took this morning from St. Peter’s Church, above the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Photo: Adele in Slovenia

Even though we should be in the midst of winter, the weather at the moment is very much spring-like. Whilst winter in the capital, Ljubljana, often means days on end of heavy fog, here in Radovljica we are fortunate that we mostly avoid the fog, and even if it does appear, we don’t have to go far to get up above it.

Photo: Adele in Slovenia

So, here’s a snapshot of whats on in 2025 in Radol’ca.

February

Of course, the month of love and romance!

If you prefer not to waste money on overpriced flowers and soppy cards, then how about treating your loved one to a Valentine’s Day Meal and/or Getaway at one of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants, such as Hiša Linhart in Radovljica or Gostišče Draga in the Draga Valley, both of which have special Valentine’s menus.

May be an image of napkin ring, candle holder and flower

Gostišče Draga: https://www.gostisce-draga.si/

Hiša Linhart in Radovljica

February in Slovenia also means carnival time and carnival time means doughnuts!

Among the most popular doughnuts in Slovenia are those at Trojane, about an hour’s drive from Radovljica, which is famous for its super-sized jam- and custard-filled doughnuts.

No photo description available.

https://gp-trojane.si/sl

The date of pust, as carnival time is called in Slovene, varies from year to year and can be in either February or March, but is always on a Tuesday 47 days before Easter (Shrove Tuesday). One day later, on Ash Wednesday, some begin a 40-day fast. And because pust precedes a period of fasting, carnival time involves copious amounts of fried food, mainly doughnuts, krostule and fritule.

March

Every year during carnival time, a Shrovide carnival procession takes place through the streets of Radovljica, as well as numerous other towns and villages throughout the country. This year’s procession will take place on 1st March. You can read more about carnival celebrations elsewhere in Slovenia here.

April

April in Radovljica is all about chocolate!

The annual 2-day Radovljica Chocolate Festival is the highlight of the year for many chocoholics. This year’s festival will take place on 12-13th April 2025.

April also means Easter, which is particularly late this year; Easter Sunday is on 20th April. You can read more about coloured Easter eggs and other Easter traditions in a blog titled Easter in Slovenia, which I wrote last year.

May

Spring is a great time to start spending more time outdoors, and in the Radovljica area and surroundings, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to hiking trails and cycling routes.

Among my favourite hikes in spring, well actually in winter too, are the trails to Suharna, Roblek, and Talež.

June

The Radovljica Craft Beer Festival takes place in Radovljica’s park, close to the historic old town. The festival is a coming together of craft beer, street-food, music and socialising.

The international Shake the Change Swing Festival is another very popular event in Radovljica. This year’s 2-day festival will be on 20th and 21st June.

July and August

Summer in Radovljica means Thursdays in the Square, featuring live music and Taste Radol’ca street food, as well as free open-air cinema screenings at various locations throughout the municipality.

September

Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia in Radovljica is the place to be for those with coeliac disease, gluten intolerance or who avoid gluten for any other reasons.

 

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https://sourdoughmania.com/

Last year’s Expo attracted visitors from far and wide, and this year’s event will feature, among others, cookery workshops run by a gluten-free provider from Algeria.

This year’s Expo in Radovljica will take place on 27th and 28th September. Visit the Expo website here, and you can also read more about last year’s event here, on a brand new website by a lady from Poland, who, together with her family, attended the 2024 Expo and loved it so much they plan to come back again this year. Thanks Dora!

October 

Culinary Autumn in Radovljica includes culinary events and guided experiences at local farms, restaurants, dairy farms and more.

November

The Taste Radol’ca Month of Local Menus includes two unique Taste Radol’ca culinary experiences and local menus featuring traceable ingredients at 7 restaurants for a set price.

Gostišče Tulipan in Lesce

December

The festive season begins with the switching-on of the lights, which is always a really popular event in Radovljica, as well as elsewhere in the country. The entertainment programme over the festive season in Radovljica includes a small Christmas market, various street shows, live music and more.

For more information about all the events scheduled for this year, click here.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Reading in Radovljica: Dormice, Moonshine and More!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Karavanke mountains, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Radovljica bazen, Slovenia blog, Tržič, Visit Radol'ca by

When I first moved to Slovenia I was eager and curious to learn more about the country’s history, people, culture, customs and more. At that time, however, books on Slovenia were very few and far between, almost non-existent, other than lengthy, history-heavy books that (almost) require a degree in ‘Slovenology‘ to understand.

Since then, a book titled ‘Slovenology‘, written by an American living in Slovenia, has actually been written, and I enjoyed reading Erica Debeljak’s self-penned memoir Forbidden Bread, but thereafter the list of what I deem ‘readable’ books on Slovenia dried up. That is, until now!

I was therefore delighted to discover a new book about Slovenia, written by a fellow Brit, Sam Baldwin, titled Dormice and Moonshine. I was even more delighted when Sam got in touch with me recently and we sat down together in Radovljica for a chat about what attracted us to Slovenia and life as an expat here.

When not working or hiking-cycling in summer, I like to find time to read, preferably outdoors. There are numerous viewpoints with benches in and around the old town centre of Radovljica, which are ideal for relaxing, soaking up the views and reading. In the heat of summer, there’s nowhere better than the tree-lined avenue in Radovljica’s park.

Arboristična nega dreves v grajskem parku - radovljica.si

For the ultimate view, head to the viewpoint at the end of historic Linhart Square, from where there are wonderful views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and further towards the Julian Alps with Mt. Triglav at the helm.

Another of my favourite viewpoints is located in the public car park between Gostilna Kunstelj and the old town centre.

Now, back to the topic of Dormice and Moonshine! I read the first few chapters in one sitting and can honestly say it’s by far my favourite book on Slovenia, not least because, like me, Sam fell in love with the country mainly due to its wonderful nature and various peculiarities, of which dormice and moonshine are among them! The tale of how he and his brother discovered Slovenia and how they ended up buying a sausage-curing hut, and what followed, is thoroughly entertaining. His encounters with ‘Mr. North’ and the ‘Wine Cowboy’ had me giggling out loud and are a ‘must read’! The only other book(s) that have had that effect on me are by Bill Bryson. So, if, like me, you are a Bryson fan, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy Dormice and Moonshine.

Why the title Dormice and Moonshine? Well, that would be giving too much away, so you’ll have to order a copy and read it for yourself to find out!

With summer in full swing, and 30 degrees temperatures to boot, here are some additional ideas for how and where to keep cool in the heat!

It’s always cooler atop a mountain, well, other than when there is an inversion during winter. So, hiking, particularly in forested areas, is a great way to escape the worst of the heat. But do take clothing with you for all four seasons, as it’s not unheard of to need hats and gloves in the mountains, even in mid-summer, as the temperature and conditions can change very quickly.

Or set off on one of the many theme trails in and around the Radovlijca area, such as the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Radovljica’s renovated Olympic swimming pool, which is open-air during summer, as well as the Kropa swimming pool are particularly popular with children at this time of year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

In nearby Tržič, you can descend into the Dovžan gorge, where you follow the course of the Tržiška Bistrica stream for a short distance, and can take the chance to cool off in the refreshing (read: freezing!) water!

But I must end with a word of caution. This year there have (already) been a record amount of rescues in Slovenia’s mountains, many of which have involved tourists who are very poorly equipped and/or have underestimated the mountains or overestimated their abilities. Please don’t be one of them! All the mountain rescuers here are volunteers. Do your homework before setting off. Check the forecast. If you are going on a long hike, or a multi-day hike, be sure to take clothing for all four seasons, as the weather can change very quickly. BE PREPARED!

© Adele Gray

What’s New, What’s Hot and What’s What!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, cycling in Slovenia, Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, gluten-free food in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian Coeliac Association, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca, Žirovnica by

It took its time but at last I can say that summer seems to have arrived in Slovenia!

There’s so much going on at this time of year in Radovljica and the surroundings, I’ve put together this blog to help you narrow down the choices of what to do and see, where to go, and, as per the title, what’s new, what’s hot and what’s what!

Since many visitors to the area are interested in the great outdoors, I’ll start with some tips for hiking and cycling, which also happen to be my two favourite summer activities.

My cycling tips: Radovljica to Žirovnica and the Završnica valley; Radovljica to Begunje na Gorenjskem and the Draga Valley; Radovljica through the Lipnica Valley to Kropa and onwards to Jamnik (by bike via the road or on foot through the forest)

The Završnica Reservoir, photo: Visit Žirovnica

My hiking tips: Kropa to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture; Lancovo to the Hunters’ Lodge on Talež on the Jelovica plateau; Begunje na Gorenjskem to St. Peter’s Church; Draga Valley to Mt. Begunščica via the Roblekov dom mountain hut

In addition, there are plenty of other activities and events to ensure you won’t be bored this summer!

Open-Air Cinema – outdoor film screenings under the stars. Click here to see the programme.

Photo: http://www.radolca.si

NEW Sailplane Grand Prix – the Lesce Sports Airfield will host the FAI Sailplane Grand Prix, which is a qualification event for the world championship. Find out more here.

Photo: http://www.radolca.si

Summer Guided Tours – between 15th June and 15th September you can take a guided tour, organised by the Radovljica and Begunje tourist information centres. Click here for more information.

Thursdays in the Square – live concerts and Taste Radol’ca street food in Linhart Square. Click here to find out more.

Radovljica Festival – lovers of early music have been enjoying the Radovlijca Festival for more than 40 years. In addition to concerts, music workshops also take place. Click here to read more.

And finally, I can’t wait to tell you about my latest ‘project’. After last year’s successful Festival of Gluten-Free Flavours and Fun in Radovljica, this year I’ve gone one step further and it’s now turned into Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia!

The Expo provides visitors with an opportunity to discover new products and flavours, buy some of the best gluten-free food available, listen to esteemed speakers from Slovenia and further afield and discover medieval Radovljica and its surroundings. The Expo features over 25 providers of gluten-free food, 2 food trucks, a children’s programme, live music, expert talks and workshops, and an entertainment and sports programme featuring, among others, guided tours, guided walks and cycle tours. All this and more!

Everyone is welcome, regardless of whether or not you follow a gluten-free diet. Entrance is free. You can read more about the expo in Slovenian here https://glutenfreeexposlo.com/ and in English here https://glutenfreeexposlo.com/en/

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

A New Look for Old Kropa

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Jelovica, Kropa, museums in Slovenia, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian Coeliac Association, Slovensko društvo za celiakijo, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

While at first glance the former iron forging village of Kropa, in the Lipnica valley, may appear to be a sleepy backwater, a closer look reveals it has plenty to offer. Add into the mix the ‘world’ above the village, on the Jelovica plateau, and there’s more than enough to see and do for a short stay in the village or as a base for exploring the surrounding area.

If you are looking for a budget option, the village is now home to a new hostel – Bajta Kropar’ca – as seen below.

The hostel, which has a total of 38 beds (33 in seven rooms and 5 in a small apartment), is housed in a renovated house, in a quiet location in close proximity to the village centre and the Kroparica stream. The shared areas have a well-equipped kitchen and dining room, featuring an original farmers’ stove, which, in addition to the handmade furniture, provides a homely and warm feeling.

Hostel Bajta Kroparica - Book directly

Elsewhere in the village itself you can visit the Iron Forging Museum, the Vigenc Vice forge, the Fovsaritnica Museum House, and the Mosaic Exhibition Gallery.

To explore the world above Kropa, you can choose from one of the many hiking trails up to the Vodiska planina mountain pasture. One of the paths begins from the Slovenska peč smelting furnace, as seen below, before first leading to the source of the Kroparica stream.

As part of the activities during Coeliac Awareness Month, the Slovenian Coeliac Association organised various activities through the month of May, one of which (which, as vice-president and acting president of the Gorenjska branch of the association, I suggested and organised!), was a hike up to the Partizanski dom mountain hut on the Vodiska planina mountain pasture, where they serve a-m-a-z-i-n-g gluten-free štruklji!

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Trust me, for coeliacs, being able to feel ‘normal’ and eat in a mountain hut, in the knowledge that the food has been prepared carefully by someone who is well aware of the steps necessary to avoid contamination, is like winning the lottery! Thank you Heidi Kardoš!

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No doubt our smiles say it all!

For one of the best vantage points around, and a particularly good spot to await sunrise, take a hike (or drive) up to the village of Jamnik, home to the Church of St. Primus and Felician.

foto of Jamnik by Anton Calpagiu, Shutterstock

Photo: http://www.radolca.si

Until next time…!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Hidden Treasures in Kropa!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Jelovica, Kropa, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

A visit to the Radol’ca area isn’t complete without a visit to the Lipnica valley, home to, among others, the former ironworking villages of Kropa and Kamna Gorica.

The former – the larger of the two and formerly the most active – is home to the Iron Forging Museum and a wealth of technical heritage.

Even after living in Radovljica for nearly 17 years (gosh, how time flies!), there are still things to be seen, places to be discovered and people to meet … providing you have a curious mind, of course.

And so it was that last week I discovered an exhibition that I didn’t know existed. The Mozaic Exhibition Gallery, which is tucked away in a house among Kropa’s narrow streets.

It’s a bit higgledy-piggledy and the exhibits aren’t displayed as one would expect in a gallery, but perhaps that’s what makes it all the more interesting, as it’s a real labour of love for the owners Stane Pavlovič and his wife, Bojana.

It’s fun trying to identify well-known buildings and people. Can you see anyone, or anything, you recognise?

Everywhere you look something catches your eye.

In addition to making mosaics, the couple also have an extensive library and even a greenhouse attached to the rear of the house. Who would have thought that cacti can be found growing in Kropa of all places, which during winter barely sees the sun?

Entrance to the exhibition is free of charge, though voluntary contributions are, of course, always welcome. To arrange a visit contact Stane on 040 349 472 or send an email to stane.pavlovic@gmail.com

While in Kropa, in addition to the aforementioned Iron Forging Museum and Mozaic Exhibition Gallery, you can also visit (upon prior arrangement) the Fovšaritnica Museum House and the Vigenjc vice nail forge, or hike up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture on the Jelovica plateau, where you can enjoy some typical mountain food at the Partisanski dom mountain hut.

We had the first snowfall of the year in the valley last week, so I’ll leave you with a ‘snowy’ picture I took on a bitterly cold morning earlier this week. Today, thankfully, it’s been almost spring-like.

May be an image of ski slope

© Adele in Slovenia 

 

 

 

 

Hour Away – Who, What, Where and Why!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, cycling in Slovenia, guided cycling tours in Slovenia, guided hiking tours in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, Hour Away, ifeelsLOVEnia, mountain biking in Slovenia, self guided cycling tours in Slovenia, self guided hiking tours in Slovenia, Slovenia blog by

As regular readers of my blog will know, to date I haven’t allowed any of the ghastly pop-up ads to appear, even though they could be a potential source of income. Why? Because I hate them! They distract from the content and often lead to me immediately closing a website or blog, as I lose the will to live due to having to keep clicking various content to delete it in order to actual reach the important stuff.

You will be pleased to know that this hasn’t, and won’t, change. However, sometimes in life you meet someone whose story and philosophy matches so well with your own that you make an exception, of kinds! And that became the case when I met Nejc Peternelj, the owner of Hour Away, for a good old chinwag over a good old cuppa!

From now on you will see the Hour Away logo on my blog, but, I promise, no ads! Click on the logo to the right of this post ——> to discover the ‘who’ and the ‘what’ and read on to discover the ‘why’!

For a start, I love the company name. Why did he chose it? Simply because in Slovenia, nothing is more than an hour away! From the capital, Ljubljana, you can be swimming at the coast or hiking in the mountains within an hour, such is the beauty of a small country.

Secondly, Nejc shares my passion for Slovenia’s countryside, hills and mountains, particularly those that are less frequented by others. Why stand in a queue to reach the top of Mt. Triglav (as I did for an hour just 15 minutes from the summit on my first ascent!) when there are SO many other magnificent summits to reach, hills to climb and places to cycle.

Thirdly, his guided and self-guided hiking and cycling tours ensure you will see, taste and experience the REAL Slovenia, not just the places that large tourist agencies include in their itineraries. For example, the self-guided Ljubljana to Lake Bled on Hidden Hills Trail, which ensures you see and experience two of Slovenia’s main attractions and many of the hidden parts in between that the majority of tourists don’t see.

And finally, he’s a genuinely nice guy, and you can’t say that about everyone these days, who is passionate about what he does. Hence we hit it off straight away, sharing stories of our favourite hidden corners of Slovenia’s countryside, hills and mountains.

Nejc spends the winter running his own ski school in Davos, Switzerland, then returns to his beloved Slovenia to guide small group biking and hiking tours in summer. Click here to find out more about the Hour Away team.

So, I hope this insider tip will be of use, dear readers, consider it my Christmas gift to you!

Until next time, I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Wild Weather and Scrumptious (gluten-free) Štruklji!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, gluten-free food in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, hiking trails, ifeelsLOVEnia, ironworking, Jelovica, Julian Alps, kamna gorica, Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Karavanke, Kropa, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Slovenian food, Slovenian mountain huts, The Julian Alps, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

While much of Europe is basking, or rather sweltering, in record-high temperatures, this ‘summer’ here in Slovenia has, so far, been marked by some mega storms, the likes of which have never been seen at this time of year, if ever.

The extreme hail and gale-force winds have wreaked havoc throughout the country, and there’s more predicted for later this week too. So, everyone is waiting and praying that there isn’t a repeat of last week, which brought significant damage to cars, roofs, crops, houses and more.

Toča po neurju v Krškem

On a more positive note, here in the Gorenjska region, i.e. the mountainous region of Slovenia, temperatures tend not to get as high as at the coast and the southeast part of the country. And even if they do, you are never far from a forest to take shelter in, a mountain to climb for some cooler air, or a pool or lake to jump into to cool off.

Here in Radovljica, we are lucky to have the Karavanke range and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps to the north, the Jelovica plateau to the south, and the Julian Alps on the doorstep, the only problem is, with so much choice, it can be hard to decide where to go!

Radovljiška ravnina

Last Wednesday, however, the decision was easy, as I had found out that the lady who runs the mountain hut on the Vodiška planina mountain pasture makes gluten-free štruklji, a real rarity indeed, in fact, quite possibly the only mountain hut that offers them.

It’s actually quite difficult to describe what štruklji are, other than to say they are made using a light dough mixture that is rolled out very thinly then filled and rolled, like a Swiss roll, before being steamed or boiled. The fillings can be sweet or savoury, depending on how creative and adventurous you want to be!

Photo: štruklji at Gostisce Draga in the Draga Valley

I can count on one hand how many times I’ve eaten them since being diagnosed with coeliac disease, so to find gluten-free ones, and so close to home – relatively speaking – is a real treat.

Below I’ve described the route I took up to the hut, which begins in Kropa, but there are also numerous other routes up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, including from the village of Kamna Gorica.

The most direct, albeit steepest, trail begins at St. Leonard’s church – one of two churches in the village.

The trail leads steeply up through the forest, with not much let up in terms of steepness until about the halfway point, which is the meeting point of paths that the lead up from other parts of Kropa.

It takes about half an hour to reach the halfway point, then within another half an hour or so, you emerge onto the mountain pasture.

The pasture is also a meeting point of numerous trails, so you can easily extend your hike in numerous directions.

But this time, we were there for the food! Those with coeliac disease, or those of you who know someone with it, will know that cross-contamination is a big deal (read: ‘problem’), something that so often places that claim to offer gluten-free food don’t take into account. However, as soon as I contacted the lady who runs the hut, her reply was such that I knew immediately that she knew about coeliac disease, so I had no hesitation in ordering them upon my arrival.

And I certainly wasn’t disappointed! I think my smile says it all!

In addition, because flour isn’t used to thicken any of the soups or stews, we ordered jota – a traditional Slovenian cabbage and bean stew, which you can order with or without Carniolan sausage.

Visit Radol’ca recently published a blog on its own website about what food is available at mountain huts in the surrounding area; in fact, it was whilst translating the blog that I discovered that gluten-free štruklji were available! Click here to read more and Dober tek (Enjoy your meal!) as we say here!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

Super Saturday in Radovljica!

Posted in Adele in Slovenia, gluten free food in Slovenia, hiking in Slovenia, ifeelsLOVEnia, Jelovica, kamna gorica, Kamp Sobec, Lipnica Valley, Mosnje, Radol'ca, Radovljica, Slovenia blog, Tourism Radol'ca, Visit Radol'ca by

Last Saturday, 4th February 2023, was Super Saturday in Radovljica for numerous reasons – for me and for many others too!

Our day started with an early morning hike to the Suharna viewpoint on the Jelovica plateau. We set off on foot from Radovljica, and before reaching the start of the trail in Kolnica in the Lipnica valley, we were lucky enough to see a rare rainbow cloud formation. Having enlightened myself (well, Googled it), I discovered this occurs due to cloud iridescence. If you want to know more, Google is your friend, or you can just admire the photo!

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At this time of year a pair of lightweight crampons certainly comes in handy, as the trails are very icy in parts at lower altitudes, whilst up higher (higher than the Jelovica plateau) there is still A LOT of snow.

From Suharna, we first took the path towards the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, but soon turned off that path and took the one down to Kamna Gorica. On reaching the village we then headed up to the Zijavka viewpoint, from where there are lovely views over the village and church.

It was a really sunny day and not too cold, though abnormally windy; Radovljica is usually fairly well sheltered in terms of wind, but last Saturday was an exception, so we were glad of our flask of tea to warm us up. We then headed back to Radovljica via the Fux footbridge over the Sava river and back to Linhart Square, i.e. the heart of the action!

The Radol’ca market takes place on the first Saturday of each month in front of St. Peter’s church in Linhart Square. Since moving from its former location at Vila Podvin in Mošnje it has become increasingly popular. This month I persuaded the organisers (Tourism Radol’ca) to let me arrange a gluten-free corner at the market and, fortunately, they agreed! There were a total of 23 stalls, four of which featured gluten-free goodies – doughnuts, cake pops, bread, rolls, pastry, profiteroles, biscuits galore and more! I advertised the event via the Facebook group that I set up for coeliacs (Celiakaši v Sloveniji), as did each of the four stallholders, but, wow, I/we, weren’t expecting it to be such a hit! They pretty much sold out in less than an hour, and there was me asking the organisers for a one-hour extension to 1pm instead of the 12noon!

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In addition to the gluten-free corner, the market features local producers and suppliers of various fruit, vegetables, cheese and other dairy products, dried meat products, honey, herbs, teas and more – something for everyone!

Some of us – stallholders and fellow coeliacs – then went for to Kavarna Vidic in Linhart Square for a cuppa and a chinwag, during which we planned future such events, of which there will be many!

We then headed home for some lunch before heading out again, well it was such a lovely day (except the wind!) for a walk to the Šobec camp, which is lovely in winter too, before returning alongside the Sava river back to Radovljica.

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It’s amazing how much you can pack into a day in Radovljica; hiking, fab views, good (gluten-free) food, socialising, walking and more!

© Adele in Slovenia