Grabnarca

Although it’s not far from Radovljica, it’s been many years since I last went for a walk along the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail. In fact, looking back, I realised it’s actually eight years, so it was high-time to revisit!

The start of the trail (marked in Slovene as: Vodna učna pot Grabnarca), is in the hamlet of Kolnica, which is a continuation of the village of Spodnja Lipica in the Lipnica Valley. At the start of the trail, there is a small parking area for a few cars, next to the bridge over the stream, and an information board about the trail (in Slovene only).

In places the trail follows the Grabnarca and Lipnica streams, which in the past powered mills and sawmills in the valley, and also leads to the spring of the Lipnica stream.

The trail starts on the left-hand side of the gravel road that leads up to the Jelovica plateau then soon crosses the road and continues on the other side.

The waymarkers and information boards (in Slovene only) show pictures demonstrating the importance of the streams for people in the Radovljica area – both then and now.

The undulating trail crosses several wooden bridges.

It makes a great family walk, as children will love crossing the bridges, looking for frogs in the streams and generally having fun outdoors, rather than being at the computer or on their phones!

After about half an hour you reach the Vošče pond.

From the pond you could either retrace your steps or, as we did, continue to make it a circular walk. If you choose the latter, continue past the pond to reach a yellow sign for Lancovo and keep following the signs for Lancovo up through the village of Vošče.

Where the road levels out there is a field path to the right, which leads across pastures with wonderful views of the Karavanke mountains.

Keep following the obvious path.

Eventually you reach a house, where a gravel road leads down to the right and back to the start of the trail in Kolnica.

It took us just over an hour to complete the circular walk, but, of course, if you take your time you could easily fill a couple of hours. Whilst you are in the area, you could also visit the former iron forging villages of Kamna Gorica and Kropa.

You can read more about this and other themed hiking trails in the Radol’ca area here.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

 

Reading in Radovljica: Dormice, Moonshine and More!

When I first moved to Slovenia I was eager and curious to learn more about the country’s history, people, culture, customs and more. At that time, however, books on Slovenia were very few and far between, almost non-existent, other than lengthy, history-heavy books that (almost) require a degree in ‘Slovenology‘ to understand.

Since then, a book titled ‘Slovenology‘, written by an American living in Slovenia, has actually been written, and I enjoyed reading Erica Debeljak’s self-penned memoir Forbidden Bread, but thereafter the list of what I deem ‘readable’ books on Slovenia dried up. That is, until now!

I was therefore delighted to discover a new book about Slovenia, written by a fellow Brit, Sam Baldwin, titled Dormice and Moonshine. I was even more delighted when Sam got in touch with me recently and we sat down together in Radovljica for a chat about what attracted us to Slovenia and life as an expat here.

When not working or hiking-cycling in summer, I like to find time to read, preferably outdoors. There are numerous viewpoints with benches in and around the old town centre of Radovljica, which are ideal for relaxing, soaking up the views and reading. In the heat of summer, there’s nowhere better than the tree-lined avenue in Radovljica’s park.

Arboristična nega dreves v grajskem parku - radovljica.si

For the ultimate view, head to the viewpoint at the end of historic Linhart Square, from where there are wonderful views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and further towards the Julian Alps with Mt. Triglav at the helm.

Another of my favourite viewpoints is located in the public car park between Gostilna Kunstelj and the old town centre.

Now, back to the topic of Dormice and Moonshine! I read the first few chapters in one sitting and can honestly say it’s by far my favourite book on Slovenia, not least because, like me, Sam fell in love with the country mainly due to its wonderful nature and various peculiarities, of which dormice and moonshine are among them! The tale of how he and his brother discovered Slovenia and how they ended up buying a sausage-curing hut, and what followed, is thoroughly entertaining. His encounters with ‘Mr. North’ and the ‘Wine Cowboy’ had me giggling out loud and are a ‘must read’! The only other book(s) that have had that effect on me are by Bill Bryson. So, if, like me, you are a Bryson fan, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy Dormice and Moonshine.

Why the title Dormice and Moonshine? Well, that would be giving too much away, so you’ll have to order a copy and read it for yourself to find out!

With summer in full swing, and 30 degrees temperatures to boot, here are some additional ideas for how and where to keep cool in the heat!

It’s always cooler atop a mountain, well, other than when there is an inversion during winter. So, hiking, particularly in forested areas, is a great way to escape the worst of the heat. But do take clothing with you for all four seasons, as it’s not unheard of to need hats and gloves in the mountains, even in mid-summer, as the temperature and conditions can change very quickly.

Or set off on one of the many theme trails in and around the Radovlijca area, such as the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Radovljica’s renovated Olympic swimming pool, which is open-air during summer, as well as the Kropa swimming pool are particularly popular with children at this time of year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

In nearby Tržič, you can descend into the Dovžan gorge, where you follow the course of the Tržiška Bistrica stream for a short distance, and can take the chance to cool off in the refreshing (read: freezing!) water!

But I must end with a word of caution. This year there have (already) been a record amount of rescues in Slovenia’s mountains, many of which have involved tourists who are very poorly equipped and/or have underestimated the mountains or overestimated their abilities. Please don’t be one of them! All the mountain rescuers here are volunteers. Do your homework before setting off. Check the forecast. If you are going on a long hike, or a multi-day hike, be sure to take clothing for all four seasons, as the weather can change very quickly. BE PREPARED!

© Adele Gray

Theme Trails in Radol’ca – Take Your Pick!

Following a themed hiking trail is a great way to discover more of a place, whether its history, culture, and/or natural features.  In the Radol’ca area you are spoilt for choice with a total of 11 such trails. Some are relatively flat, short trails, while others involve a bit more effort; all of them, however, are unique in their own way.

The Begunje Shepherds’ Trail is a 10km circular trail and is by far my favourite of the bunch! It leads from the Draga valley up to the Preval mountain pasture, then along the ‘ćez Roza‘ path to reach the Roblekov dom mountain hut. The start of the trail involves a short section of climbing, followed by a steep section through the forest.

On emerging from the forest the path levels out somewhat, and you can start enjoying the views. You can read more in a previous blog post here.

The Brezje Path of Peace starts close to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, Slovenia’s main pilgrimage site, in Brezje. It leads via forest paths and country roads to the Peračica waterfalls.

The Sava River Trail, as the name suggests, runs along the banks of the Sava river from the Fux footbridge to the Šobec camp. It is a linear walk that can be walked in either direction.

St. Peter’s Trail is a short trail that leads up to St. Peter’s church above Begunje na Gorenjskem. From the church there are fantastic views of the Radovljica plains, the Jelovica plateau and, on a clear day, all the way to Triglav, Slovenia’s highest mountain.

The Lipnica Castle Trail leads across the Fux footbridge over the Sava river to the ruins of Lipnica Castle above the Lipnica valley.

The Lamberg Trail leads to the ruins of Kamen Castle in the Draga valley. It begins at the Krpin recreation area in Begunje na Gorenjskem and leads through the forest past the ruins of Kamen Castle, passing two small archeological sites, ending in the  Draga valley at the Gostišče Draga restaurant, where you can enjoy a drink, snack or slap-up meal to gather your strength for the return journey, or you could even continue further on one of the trails that lead into the Karavanke mountains.

The Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail is pleasant, shady trail over wooden footbridges. It begins at the source of the Lipnica stream, crosses the Grabnarca stream and ends at a small lake. The walk can easily be extended further by walking on country roads to return to the start.

The Otoče-Brezje Pilgrimage Trail begins at the railway station in Otoče, runs through the village of Ljubno, known for its numerous frescoes, and on to Brezje, home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians.

The Mošnje Archeological Trail explores the village of Mošnje, home to the Villa Rustica archaeological site and the Mošnje Ethnological Museum. 

The Rosary Bead Trail is a circular trail that leads along ancient pilgrimage routes. It gets its name due to the rosary bead-like shape of the trail. The trail is rated as easy, though it covers a total of 12.2km, across fields and meadows, through forests and along country lanes, with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside.

The Begunje Village Trail takes you on a tour of the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem, the birthplace of Slavko Avsenik, the founder of Slovenian folk music. You can also visit Katzenstein Mansion, which today houses a psychiatric hospital and, at the rear, the Museum of Hostages.

Now all you have to do is choose which one, or ones, to walk – a tough choice indeed!

© Adele in Slovenia

A (New) Hike and an (Old) Walk in the Lipnica Valley!

Despite the title, the hike to Suharna isn’t actually ‘new’ per se, it is, however, newly marked and thus easier to find and follow – so that makes it new(ish) in my book!

The path begins in the Kolnica area of Spodnja Lipnica in the Lipnica valley. If coming by car from Radovljica then you should turn right opposite the Krona bar on the road marked towards Talež and other points of the Jelovica plateau.

You could, of course – like me – get to the start by bike (the car in the photo isn’t mine!), I got there purely by pedal power!

The first few hundred metres can be a bit muddy following rain, but the path then leads up into the forest on a good track.

The rewards come early on this hike, as after just a short while you glimpse the first view back across the Lipnica valley and across the Radovljica plains.

After around 20 minutes you reach počivav – a shrine with a bench where you can take a breather.

The path is well marked throughout.

A further cca. 10 minutes brings you to an intersection of two paths – continue left for Suharna or upwards towards Razpok. For the best views choose Suharna; the path to Razpok, which I also decided to check out, leads to a small pasture with a few weekend homes, but the views are somewhat restricted.

After a mere hour you reach the Suharna viewpoint at 952 metres above sea-level, where you can linger and marvel at the stunning views earnt for such little effort!

So, now to the ‘old’ walk mentioned in the title! I have blogged about the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail in the past, but since it begins from the same start point as the hike to Suharna, I thought it deserves another mention.

The trail follows the Grabnarca and Lipnica streams, which in the past powered mills and sawmills in the valley, and also leads to the spring of the Lipnica stream. You can read more in my previous blog post here.

You could even make a day of it, pack a picnic, and do both walks in one!

© Adele in Slovenia

52 Shades of Radovljica – The Sequel!

Well, it’s not exactly ‘a sequel’, more ‘part two’, but it has more of a ring to it!

But first, since some of you have been asking, here’s an update of what is happening in Slovenia in terms of the COVID-19 situation. On Friday 15th May the government officially declared an end to the COVID-19 virus in Slovenia – making it the first country in Europe to do so. It isn’t, however, an end to some of the measures in place, i.e. masks still have to be worn in public places, only hotels with up to 30 rooms are open, distancing measures are in place on public transport, etc., and younger children returned to school/nursery as of 18th May. The borders with neighbouring countries have also reopened, however, at the moment only for citizens/permanent residents and those with written proof of their reason for coming into the country – but the situation is changing rapidly, so do check before making any plans!

So, back to Radol’ca, and carrying on from part one of ‘52 Shades of Radovljica‘, below you can find out more about the remaining 26 towns, villages and hamlets in the municipality of Radovljica.

Peračica – home to the Peračica waterfalls, which you can see on a walk along the Brezje Path of Peace.

Podnart – a village beside the Sava river with a railway station on the main line between Ljubljana and Jesenice. It is also home to the restaurant Joštov hram, which is particularly known for its excellent grilled meat.

Poljče – a small settlement of houses and farmhouses lining the road between Begunje na Gorenjskem and Rodine.

Poljšica pri Podnartu – a small settlement beside the Sava river near Ovsiše.

Posavec – a settlement next to the Sava river near Podnart.

Praproše – a handful of houses near Ljubno.

Prezrenje – a small settlement tucked away up a hill between Podnart one one side and the Lipnica valley on the other.

Radovljica – the main town and administrative centre of the municipality. The beautifully preserved old town centre is the star attraction.

Ravnica – A few scattered houses near the Fux footbridge.

Photo: Adele in Slovenia

Rovte – a small settlement in a sunny location above the Lipnica valley.

Slatna – a small hamlet beneath Mt. Dobrča and one of the starting points for the hike to the Koča na Dobrči mountain hut (1,478m) and onward to its peak.

Spodnja Dobrava – three settlements – Spodnja (Lower) Srednja (Middle), Zgornja (Upper) – that lie 500 metres above sea-level on a sunny plateau above the Lipnica valley.

Spodnja Lipnica – together with Zgornja Lipica, these two hamlets occupy an idyllic position in the lush Lipnica valley. From here you can easily reach the ruins of Lipnica Castle and the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail on foot.

Spodnji Otok – Spodnji (Lower) and Zgornji (Upper) Otok mainly comprise traditional Slovenian alpine farmhouses. The former is set back slightly from the road, whilst the houses of the latter line the main road towards Begunje na Gorenjskem. Spodjni Otok is particularly known for its church – Church of St. John the Baptist – which chimes noon at 11am! An interesting legend has it that when Turkish invaders were approaching the village, their horses were attacked by hornets and they fled. Since this happened at exactly 11am, the church still today chimes noon an hour early.

Srednja Dobrava – see Spodnja Dobrava. The village is also home to the Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.

Srednja vas – A small hamlet of houses lining the road beneath Mount Dobrča.

Studenčice – a small hamlet near Lesce, home to a garden centre and St. Florian’s church, which features one of the earliest wall paintings in Slovenia dating from the early 14th century.

Vošče – a small settlement above Lancovo that features on a walk along the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Vrbnje – home to the Dolenc farm and farm shop, a favourite among locals for its milk and home-produced cheese and yoghurt.

Zadnja vas – the final hamlet – as the name suggests – translation: last village – beneath Mt. Dobrča before reaching the municipality of Tržič. It is home to St. Lucy’s church, which in the past people with eye problems flocked to, since its patron saint is the patron saint of vision.

Zaloše – a hamlet near Podnart with houses lining the road beside the Sava river.

Zapuže – a small settlement between Radovljica and Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Zgornja Dobrava – see Spodnja Dobrava.

Zgornja Lipnica – see Spodnja Lipica.

Zgornji Otok – see Spodnji Otok.

Zgoša – home to the family-run Resman bakery. Prior to being diagnosed with coeliac disease, I used to love their homemade bread. Highly recommend for those of you luckily enough to still be able to eat it!

So, that concludes ’52 Shades of Radovljica’. I hope it has been as enlightening for you as it has for me!

© Adele in Slovenia

Radol’ca Strikes Gold!

In these testing times for all, it’s nice to at least be able to convey some good news: Radol’ca has struck gold! Well, obviously, not literally but it has been awarded a Gold Slovenian Green Destination label, which is surely as good, if not better! And, as one of just 14 destinations in the country that are holders of gold labels, I think that’s something to shout about!

The label, which is awarded by the Slovenian Tourist Board, is proof that Radovljica is on the right track not only in the field of tourism but also those of sustainable development, preserving nature and cultural heritage, and social inclusion.

So, why not come and see for yourself – when the virus situation allows, of course – why Radovljica is a ‘Gold’ destination, and experience its nature and culture, and, while you are here, you can play your part in helping its sustainable practice, too.

Choosing accommodation that is environmentally-friendly is a good way to start. One such is the Woodhouse B&B in Dobro polje, near Radovljica, which was conceived in a sustainable way, thus requiring less operating and maintenance costs. In fact, this B&B alone played a key part in Radovljica being awarded a ‘Gold’ destination label, since it is the holder of a Green Key certificate, which is one of the requirements for applying for a Slovenian Green Destination label. Click here to see the full range of accommodation in Radol’ca.

The fact that Radovljica offers so many cultural and natural assets and attractions was also key in obtaining the label. Radovljica’s crowning glory is Linhart Square, the heart of the historic old town centre, with its frescoed houses, the magnificent Radovljica Manor, and numerous museums and galleries.

Keep up the good work Radol’ca!

Of course, I couldn’t end without mentioning Coronavirus and its effect here in Radovljica and Slovenia as a whole.

At the time of writing (Monday 23 March), there have been three deaths here (all of whom had previous medical conditions) and over 400 confirmed cases. Social distancing is being enforced, whereby no more than five people are allowed to be outdoors together at any one time, but we can – for the time being and I’m praying that it stays this way – at least go out for walks in forests, etc., providing we maintain a safe distance from others we encounter.

Fortunately the Radol’ca area has numerous places where you can walk and escape into the embrace of nature whilst avoiding public areas. In addition to such trails being ideal now at a time when we are all forced to avoid each other, they are also great places to walk in the summer to avoid the heat and crowds. In Radol’ca these include the Lipnica Castle Trail and the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

All shops – other than food shops, post offices, banks and petrol stations – are closed, as are cafes, and all other services such as hairdressers, garages, etc. Sadly, the Radovljica Chocolate Festival has become a ‘victim’ of the virus too and has thus been cancelled. Such a shame for the organisers as a significant amount of work and time had already been invested. But I have no doubt that it will be back bigger and better than ever next year from 16-18 April 2021.

Click here to keep up-to-date on the developments in the Radol’ca area – in tourism terms.

I hope to be back with you soon with some more cheerful news and some photos of me out hiking and enjoying all that the Radol’ca area has to offer! Until then, stay safe and well!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Radol’ca: Find Your Inspiration – I Found Mine!

This new promotional video for Radol’ca has just been released. Watching it makes me so proud to be able to call Radovljica my home. Oh, and by the way, just to make it clear, as I know it can be somewhat confusing, Radovljica is the name of the town; Radol’ca is the marketing name for the destination which includes Radovljica and the surrounding villages, such as Begunje na Gorenjskem, Kropa, Brezje, Kamna Gorica, and the smaller settlements in-between.

So, as another year of my life in Radovljica draws to a close, here’s a look back at just some of my personal highlights of 2017, which I hope will also provide inspiration for you to visit, or re-visit, the area next year!

In winter 2017 I celebrated an amazing 10 years in Slovenia – gosh how time flies! Here I am celebrating with the very talented duo WildArt. More here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/02/12/celebrating-10-years-in-slovenia-in-a-wildart-style/

On the occasion, I was particularly proud to receive an award from the mayor of Radovljica for my contribution to tourism.

Spring is chocolate time in Radovljica – time for the Radovljica Chocolate Festival, the biggest of its kind in Slovenia. Note the date for the next festival in your diaries now: 20th – 22nd April 2018!

In spring I also, for the first time, tried parkour archery in the Draga valley with Robert (Robi) Levstek, and discovered what fun it is. More here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/04/10/archery-adventures-and-delicious-draga-delights/

In summer I tried out the new Adventure Mini Golf Panorama in Gorica, near Radovljica. I was might impressed by its wonderful panoramic, shady location and well-arranged, modern course. More here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/07/30/adventure-mini-golf-panorama-the-name-says-it-all/

The Grabnarca Waterside Trail is also a great place to seek some ‘cool’ during summer. Read more about this path’s many bridges here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/08/28/the-grabnarca-waterside-nature-trail/

Late autumn was time for very tasty, very tempting, and very popular Taste Radol’ca!

And that brings us to winter, which started earlier this year (boohoo!) and, to me at least, already seems too long! But it does have its pluses, too, such as the joyous festive atmosphere on the occasion of the switching of of the Christmas lights in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town. Here you can check out the whole Festive December in Linhart Square programme.

And I even really enjoyed my somewhat snowy visit to Brezje’s Nativity Museum – despite my dislike of the white stuff! Find out more about Slovenia’s national sanctuary, the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, and my visit to the museum – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2017/12/10/feel-the-festive-spirit-at-the-nativity-museum-at-slovenias-national-shrine-in-brezje/

And that brings me to the end of another Radovljica year, though, of course, it’s not the end of the journey! I hope you will continue to be inspired by my Adele in Slovenia blog posts, will continue to read, and you, too, might ‘Find your Inspiration’ in Radovljica!

A very Merry Christmas to you all!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

The Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail

The start of the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail (Vodna učna pot Grabnarca), and the one shown here below, is in the village of Spodnja Lipica in the Lipnica Valley where there is a small parking area for a few cars and an information board about the trail. There is also an alternative start next to the small supermarket in the upper part of the village of Lancovo.

In places the trail follows the Grabnarca and Lipnica streams, which in the past powered mills and sawmills in the valley, and also leads to the spring of the Lipnica stream. Shortly after the trail crosses the gravel road which leads up to the Jelovica plateau.

The 5km trail is largely in the forest and crosses numerous wooden bridges.

The waymarkers and information boards (in Slovene only) show pictures demonstrating the importance of the streams for people in the Radovljica area – both then and now.

The ruins of old mills and other buildings can be seen alongside the path.

Here one is seen in its former glory.

Over a few more bridges, until you reach …

… the Vašče pond.

I can’t imagine how or when this boat last saw an action on the pond, but I guess there must be a reason it is here!

At the pond you can choose to either re-enter the forest and follow the waymarkers back to the start, or, as I did, continue a little further up towards the houses above the pond and back along the quiet country lanes to return to the start. Taking this option you are also rewarded with wonderful views of the Karavanke mountains.

I wouldn’t recommend walking this path after prolonged heavy rain, as, despite the numerous bridges, in places it can get quite muddy, but with the long, hot summer we have had of late, and which looks set to continue for at least a few days yet – not withstanding the storm that is going on outside my window right now! – now is an ideal time.

For more information see the Tourism Radol’ca website here – http://www.radolca.si/en/grabnarca-waterside-nature-trail/

© Adele in Slovenia