Brezje Among the Best; Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia Reportage

I’m delighted to be able to say that Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, which I organised last month in Radovljica, was a great success, but more on that later! First other news…

The village of Brezje, home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians, is Slovenia’s national pilgrimage sanctuary. In addition to the basilica, the village has numerous other attractions, all of which helped it recently win an award from the Tourist Union of Slovenia (TZS) for being among the most well-kept visitor attractions in the country.

Aside from the main attraction – the aforementioned basilica – the village is also home to the Brezje Nativity Museum

…the Canticle of the Sun Gallery

…the Brezje Path of Peace (Pot miru), which leads to the Peričnik waterfall …

and the Otoče-Brezje Pilgrimage Trail (Bozja pot od Otoč do Brezij).

In addition, Brezje is now host to an exhibition devoted to the 70th anniversary of the time when the Avsenik Brothers first started creating a completely new form of writing and playing Slovenian national folk music. Of course, the ‘real’ home of Avsenik’s music is Begunje na Gorenjskem, where you can visit the Avsenik Museum and/or attend one of the many music events.

Now, back to Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia! As I mentioned above, the 2-day event was a great success, so I’d love to share a few photos with you.

We began on Saturday with an international gluten-free cookery workshop, during which the participants, led by Danica Rozman, assisted by volunteers from the Slovenian Coeliac Assocation, Gorenjska branch, prepared a whole array of traditional Slovenian foods, gluten-free of course, for the evening reception to follow.

We then moved from the neighbouring village of Naklo to Radovljica, where we held an international reception and concert in the Baroque Hall of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

The reception was attended by visitors from Malta, Hungary, Algeria, Bosnia and Poland, all of whom bought some gluten-free food with them from their country, so that we could all try some of their goodies!

After the reception, some of us crossed over to the other side of Linhart Square for gluten-free dinner at Hiša Linhart, cooked by the Michelin-starred chef Uroš Štefelin and his team.

On Sunday – the main day – there were 27 stalls in Radovljica’s park and a packed programme of entertainment, workshops and talks for all generations. In short, gluten-free heaven for all! Don’t let anyone ever tell you gluten-free food can’t be delicious and varied!

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Below you can watch a short video of Sunday’s Expo.

The Expo was the first event of this year’s Culinary Autumn in Radovljica. You can find more about other events here.

That’s all from me for now. Until next time…

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia; Culinary Autumn in Radol’ca

Summer has been and gone and the leaves on the trees are already showing signs of autumn, which means it’s time for Culinary Autumn in Radol’ca!

I’m more than excited to announce that the opening event of this year’s Culinary Autumn is Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, which is the successor to last year’s Gluten-Free Festival that I organised in Radovljica. Planning for this year’s event began shortly after new year, and having worked almost flat-out on for the past few months I think I’m justified in wanting to shout about it – loudly!

The opening event of Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia will take place on Saturday 28th September, with an international cookery workshop followed by a reception and concert in Radovljica Manor and then gluten-free dinner at Hiša Linhart, cooked by Michelin-starred chef Uroš Štefelin. Dinner is also available on Friday 27th September, Saturday 28th September and Sunday lunch on 29th September, reservations are mandatory in all cases.

The main day of the Expo is Sunday 29th September 2024, when, in addition to an education programme, children’s programme and entertainment and sports programme, around 30 providers of gluten-free food will be selling their products and some of them offering free tastings.

People have various reasons for not eating gluten; those of us with coeliac disease have no choice, then there are those who are intolerant and others who choose not to eat gluten. Whatever the reason, or even if you are just curious, you will find something at the Expo to suit all tastes and for all generations.

For more information click here.

Last weekend an article was published about Gluten-Free Expo in the Austrian newspaper Kleine Zeitung.

And I even appeared on the breakfast TV programme Jutro na Planetu last week, together with Anna Nica Simoncic, the owner of the gluten-free burger bar. Anna showed viewers how to make gluten-free tortellini and I talked about life with coeliac disease, how to read food labels and, of course, Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia.

After the Expo, Culinary Autumn in Radol’ca continues with Farmer’s Table, which made its debut last year and proved to be a huge success.

Imagine the scenario… some of Radovljica’s best chefs, a menu featuring dishes prepared with traceable ingredients – some sourced directly from the farm where lunch will take place – a ride on a hay wagon, a farm tour with tastings, lunch at the farm and music.

But that’s just the start! Other events throughout October and November include, among others:

No photo description available.

No photo description available.

So, it’s certainly going to be a busy and tasty autumn!

Please keep your fingers crossed for nice weather on Sunday 29th September, and, of course, if you are in Slovenia, come along to Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia. Everyone welcome!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

Reading in Radovljica: Dormice, Moonshine and More!

When I first moved to Slovenia I was eager and curious to learn more about the country’s history, people, culture, customs and more. At that time, however, books on Slovenia were very few and far between, almost non-existent, other than lengthy, history-heavy books that (almost) require a degree in ‘Slovenology‘ to understand.

Since then, a book titled ‘Slovenology‘, written by an American living in Slovenia, has actually been written, and I enjoyed reading Erica Debeljak’s self-penned memoir Forbidden Bread, but thereafter the list of what I deem ‘readable’ books on Slovenia dried up. That is, until now!

I was therefore delighted to discover a new book about Slovenia, written by a fellow Brit, Sam Baldwin, titled Dormice and Moonshine. I was even more delighted when Sam got in touch with me recently and we sat down together in Radovljica for a chat about what attracted us to Slovenia and life as an expat here.

When not working or hiking-cycling in summer, I like to find time to read, preferably outdoors. There are numerous viewpoints with benches in and around the old town centre of Radovljica, which are ideal for relaxing, soaking up the views and reading. In the heat of summer, there’s nowhere better than the tree-lined avenue in Radovljica’s park.

Arboristična nega dreves v grajskem parku - radovljica.si

For the ultimate view, head to the viewpoint at the end of historic Linhart Square, from where there are wonderful views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and further towards the Julian Alps with Mt. Triglav at the helm.

Another of my favourite viewpoints is located in the public car park between Gostilna Kunstelj and the old town centre.

Now, back to the topic of Dormice and Moonshine! I read the first few chapters in one sitting and can honestly say it’s by far my favourite book on Slovenia, not least because, like me, Sam fell in love with the country mainly due to its wonderful nature and various peculiarities, of which dormice and moonshine are among them! The tale of how he and his brother discovered Slovenia and how they ended up buying a sausage-curing hut, and what followed, is thoroughly entertaining. His encounters with ‘Mr. North’ and the ‘Wine Cowboy’ had me giggling out loud and are a ‘must read’! The only other book(s) that have had that effect on me are by Bill Bryson. So, if, like me, you are a Bryson fan, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy Dormice and Moonshine.

Why the title Dormice and Moonshine? Well, that would be giving too much away, so you’ll have to order a copy and read it for yourself to find out!

With summer in full swing, and 30 degrees temperatures to boot, here are some additional ideas for how and where to keep cool in the heat!

It’s always cooler atop a mountain, well, other than when there is an inversion during winter. So, hiking, particularly in forested areas, is a great way to escape the worst of the heat. But do take clothing with you for all four seasons, as it’s not unheard of to need hats and gloves in the mountains, even in mid-summer, as the temperature and conditions can change very quickly.

Or set off on one of the many theme trails in and around the Radovlijca area, such as the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Radovljica’s renovated Olympic swimming pool, which is open-air during summer, as well as the Kropa swimming pool are particularly popular with children at this time of year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

In nearby Tržič, you can descend into the Dovžan gorge, where you follow the course of the Tržiška Bistrica stream for a short distance, and can take the chance to cool off in the refreshing (read: freezing!) water!

But I must end with a word of caution. This year there have (already) been a record amount of rescues in Slovenia’s mountains, many of which have involved tourists who are very poorly equipped and/or have underestimated the mountains or overestimated their abilities. Please don’t be one of them! All the mountain rescuers here are volunteers. Do your homework before setting off. Check the forecast. If you are going on a long hike, or a multi-day hike, be sure to take clothing for all four seasons, as the weather can change very quickly. BE PREPARED!

© Adele Gray

A New Look for Old Kropa

While at first glance the former iron forging village of Kropa, in the Lipnica valley, may appear to be a sleepy backwater, a closer look reveals it has plenty to offer. Add into the mix the ‘world’ above the village, on the Jelovica plateau, and there’s more than enough to see and do for a short stay in the village or as a base for exploring the surrounding area.

If you are looking for a budget option, the village is now home to a new hostel – Bajta Kropar’ca – as seen below.

The hostel, which has a total of 38 beds (33 in seven rooms and 5 in a small apartment), is housed in a renovated house, in a quiet location in close proximity to the village centre and the Kroparica stream. The shared areas have a well-equipped kitchen and dining room, featuring an original farmers’ stove, which, in addition to the handmade furniture, provides a homely and warm feeling.

Hostel Bajta Kroparica - Book directly

Elsewhere in the village itself you can visit the Iron Forging Museum, the Vigenc Vice forge, the Fovsaritnica Museum House, and the Mosaic Exhibition Gallery.

To explore the world above Kropa, you can choose from one of the many hiking trails up to the Vodiska planina mountain pasture. One of the paths begins from the Slovenska peč smelting furnace, as seen below, before first leading to the source of the Kroparica stream.

As part of the activities during Coeliac Awareness Month, the Slovenian Coeliac Association organised various activities through the month of May, one of which (which, as vice-president and acting president of the Gorenjska branch of the association, I suggested and organised!), was a hike up to the Partizanski dom mountain hut on the Vodiska planina mountain pasture, where they serve a-m-a-z-i-n-g gluten-free štruklji!

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Trust me, for coeliacs, being able to feel ‘normal’ and eat in a mountain hut, in the knowledge that the food has been prepared carefully by someone who is well aware of the steps necessary to avoid contamination, is like winning the lottery! Thank you Heidi Kardoš!

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No doubt our smiles say it all!

For one of the best vantage points around, and a particularly good spot to await sunrise, take a hike (or drive) up to the village of Jamnik, home to the Church of St. Primus and Felician.

Until next time…!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Chocolate Comes to Town!

It’s that time again! Chocolate time! The time of the year when Radovljica does what it does best, i.e. puts on a fab 2-day festival and feasts on chocolate(s) galore!

This year’s Radovljica Chocolate Festival takes place this weekend, i.e. 20th and 21st April.

I recently attended the festival press conference, where I was privy to insider information about the festival, which I can now share with you!

A new feature this year is Photolandia, which is already operational now, where you can get your photo taken, post a postcard and get in the festival spirit!

As has been the case for the past few years, a competition was held prior to the festival to find the winner of the title ‘Best Chocolate Praline‘. This year, six Slovenian chocolatiers entered 12 chocolates and for the first time two rounds of judging were held; the first took place in Radovljica, where the master patissier Naser Gashi from La Ganash and the editor of the magazine Pet Zvezdic (Five Stars) Urša Cvilak tasted and assessed all 12 chocolate pralines. They chose the best six, which, on Monday 8th April, then went forward for judging in Austria at the Zotter chocolatier, where the three winning chocolates were chosen.

Morda je slika naslednjega: 2 osebi, knjiga in besedilo

At the press conference, we were fortunate to be able to try this year’s winning chocolate – crunchy yuzu – and, for a change, I was even able to try it, as it is made by the Lucifer chocolatier whose chocolates are all gluten free!

Visitors to the festival this weekend will also have the chance to vote for their favourite among the finalists.

Another new feature of this year’s festival is an exhibition of chocolate mosaics, which is on view in Radovljica Manor. The project connects artists and handicraft people in the municipality and also has a charitable note, as after the festival the mosaics will be donated to residential communities and departments of the Matevz Langus Centre in Radovljica, the Pediatric Department of Jesenice Hospital, the Radovljica Home for the Elderly, and the Kresnica Youth Crisis Centre.

May be an image of gingerbread biscuit

Since Radovljica is so well connected by public transport, and since the festival is so incredibly popular and the organisers strive to make it as sustainable as possible, visitors are asked to, where possible, arrive by public transport. To that end an arrangement has been reached with Slovenia Railways that additional trains will stop at Radovljica

The two-day festival programme is as jam-packed as ever. Full details can be found on the new Radovljica Chocolate Festival website.

Some of the highlights of this year’s programme include the amazing acrobatic Dunking Devils, cookery workshops for adults and children, ChocoBaroque, live music, circus shows, face painting, a honey adventure and more.

No photo description available.

Check out the official Chocolate Festival video here!

And don’t worry, the festival goes ahead come rain, shine or snow (yes, at the time of writing this it’s snowing heavily, whereas last weekend we were in shorts and t-shirts and eating ice-cream!), since the stalls, as well as a large number of the activities, are undercover.

By the way, for any fellow coeliacs, there will also be a number of stalls offering gluten-free chocolates and also gluten-free pancakes will be available on the Torras stall together with information about the Slovenian Coeliac Association.

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Hope to see you (t)here.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Easter Traditions in Slovenia

With Easter just a few days away, I thought I’d write a blog on Easter traditions in Slovenia, covering everything from religious and secular celebrations to, of course, food and other traditions.

Easter is celebrated here in a number of ways. It begins on Palm Sunday when people can be seen flocking to churches around the country carrying bundles of branches and leaves, called butare, which are then blessed as part of a custom thought to date back as far as the 9th century.

Easter ‘butare’ bundles in front of the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians in Brezje. Photo: Visit Radol’ca

Žegnane – the blessing of food on Easter Saturday – takes places around the country in front of or in churches or, as seen below in Lancovo, near Radovljica, at shrines in smaller settlements. People take baskets of food, covered with embroidered cloths, to be blessed. However, this food cannot be eaten until Easter Sunday. Then, after a period of abstinence (by some), with a fast beginning on Ash Wednesday, food becomes a big deal as tables in homes around the country can be found bursting under the weight of potica, which is the star of the show, as well as baked ham, horseradish, eggs and more.

Potica is a traditional Slovenian sweet baked at Christmas and Easter holidays, and is arguably the most famous Slovenian dish. It could be said that no Slovenian holiday is truly complete without a slice of traditional potica. Apparently, there are over 80 different types of potica in Slovenia, yet in most shops and bakeries there are only the usual staple varieties, such as; walnut – by far the most commonly found – as well as poppy seed, tarragon, coconut, and potratna –  a layered ‘luxury’ potica, made with curd cheese, walnuts and layers of light and dark sponge.

Gluten-free potica is also now widely available, such as seen below, so no need for us coeliacs to miss out.

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Gluten-free walnut potica and coconut potica – Sladki butik Ines

Pirhi, another staple on tables at Easter, are coloured eggs, traditionally dyed using onion skins. Spring flowers or leaves are attached to the eggs during the dying process to produce the characteristic pattern.

The game of ‘fucanje‘ traditionally takes place at Easter. Players compete in a coin throwing contest, each aiming for their coin to land closest to the target. The winners then ‘takes all’!

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On Easter Sunday in the municipality of Radovljica ‘fucanje‘ takes place outside the cultural centre in the villages of Mošnje and also in Begunje na Gorenjskem behind the Pr’ Tavčar restaurant.

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Rolling eggs, or Easter egg hunts, are other traditional Easter games.

Lov na pirhe na Blejskem gradu - THE Slovenia

On Easter Sunday, a typical Easter feast in Slovenia usually looks something like this…

I can’t finish this blog without mentioning the retirement of Slovenia’s best ever ski jumper, Peter Prevec, who officially made his last competitive jumps at Planica last weekend.

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Peter’s records speak for themself, among them:

  • 203 FIS WC appearances
  • 51 FIS WC appearances
  • FIS WC victories
  • 15 wins in one season
  • Winner of the Crystal Globe 2015/2016
  • Winner of the Ski Flying Crystal Globe in 2013/14, 2014/15 and 2015/16
  • Silver and Bronze medal winner at the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014
  • Silver and bronze medalist at the Nordic World Ski Championships

Originally from the Poljane Valley, Peter now lives with his wife and two children in Radovljica. To show our gratitude and appreciation to him, the town is putting on a celebrate his exceptional sports career this Tuesday (i.e. tomorrow) at 5pm, to which everyone is invited, featuring live music with Saša Avsenik and the Lesce Wind Orchestra.

And finally, it’s less than a month until the Radovljica Chocolate Festival. This year’s festival will take place on Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st April and, as ever, will feature a chocolate-packed and entertainment-packed programme, so plan your visit now! Should you need any help planning your visit, contact the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre.

© Adele in Slovenia

Slovenian Culture – Radol’ca-style!

Slovenia takes its culture seriously, and this is most visible every year on 8th February when the country celebrates Prešeren Day – a national cultural holiday – dedicated to its most treasured poet, France Prešeren.

Various events take place throughout the country, the largest of which are in Kranj and Vrba. The former is nowadays known as Prešeren’s Town, while the latter was his birthplace.

In Vrba, which is in close proximity to Radovljica, every year on 8th February people flock from around the country to take part in a 10-kilometre walk along the Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Trail. The trail begins at Prešeren’s birth house

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…then continues via fields and country paths to the birth houses of Žirovnica’s other famous men as well as Anton Janša’s apiary.

The Prešernov smenj fair in Kranj also attracts huge crowds. The event is dedicated to all-things from Prešeren’s time; music, dance, clothing, food …

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Throughout the country all museums offer free admission on 8th February to enable everyone to be part of Prešeren Day.

The Radol’ca area has more than its fair share of museums; 12 to be precise (excluding galleries):

Museum of Apiculture, Radovljica

Municipal Museum, Radovljica

Pharmacy and Alchemy Museum, Radovljica

Lectar Workshop and Museum, Radovljica

Iron Forging Museum, Kropa

Fovsaritnica Museum House, Kropa

Sextons’ Museum House, Kamna Gorica

Museum of Hostages, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Elan Alpine Ski Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Avsenik Museum, Begunje na Gorenjskem

Ethnological Museum, Mošnje

Nativity Museum, Brezje

While deciding what to do this year on 8th February, I realised that I had been to all the above museums, except one – the Municipal Museum. So, it was time to tick that one off the list too!

The museum is dedicated to Radovljica’s most well known (former) resident – Anton Tomaž Linhart: The 18th century was a time of great change in Europe. One of the central characters in the then Carniola was Anton Tomaž Linhart from Radovljica, the father of Slovenian theatre and scientific historiography.

The museum is located on the first floor of the magnificent Radovljica Manor.

If I’m honest, it had probably never occurred to me to visit the museum as I thought that since it’s all dedicated to one person, there is only so much you can hear and see about that person. But, I stand corrected! Though the content is indeed dedicated to Anton Tomaž Linhart, it is also an opportunity to find out about life, clothing and customs in the eighteenth century.

And to have a bit of fun dressing up too!

Upon prior arrangement, guided tours are available in Slovene, German and English.

Our national day of culture may be over for this year, but there are hundreds of (other) museums throughout Slovenia to explore throughout the year.

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

Culinary Autumn in Radol’ca: The Farmer’s Table

I know I am somewhat biased, since I live in Radovljica, but nonetheless I truly believe that the team at Visit Radovljica has to be one of the best, if not the best, in the country. Why? Because instead of resting on their laurels, they are constantly coming up with new ideas that are attractive to tourists, beneficial to the local community and adhere to the sustainable goals of Slovenian tourism as a whole.

This year marks the 10th anniversary of Taste Radol’ca, when every November the chefs at the participating restaurants create set price menus using local ingredients. This year, the Taste Radol’ca Month of Local Cuisine will extend over two months rather than the usual one, as throughout October there are various activities in which locals and visitors alike can take part.

Guided bike trips, available on Saturday 14th, Friday 20th and Saturday 28th October, are an ideal combination of fresh air, sightseeing and tasting the produce of local farms.

In addition, open days at local farms provide a great opportunity to discover the importance of getting food from field to table in the shortest possible way. The first takes place on 14th October at 10am at the Vegerila Farm, then on 20th October at 1pm at the Dolenc Farm, and 28th October at 10am the Brinsek Farm.

Another among the latest great ideas is a unique culinary experience named The Farmer’s Table, which will take place this Saturday 7th October at 12noon and is the opening event of this year’s Taste Radol’ca. Reservations are required in advance for the 4-hour culinary programme, which includes a horse and cart ride, snacks along the way, lunch at an organic farm prepared by Radovljica’s chefs  (6-course menu from selected traceable ingredients), live music and a practical gift.

Morda je slika naslednjega: 9 oseb in poroka

The chefs taking part in The Farmer’s Table are:

Morda je slika naslednjega: 1 oseba in hrana
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Contact Visit Radol’ca for more information and to book your place at the Farmer’s Table or to book a cycling tour.
Still on the theme of food, albeit it gluten-free food, I’d like to take this opportunity to thank all those who visited the festival I recently organised in Radovjlica – Festival of Gluten Free Tastes and Fun. I’m delighted to say the day was a great success, which was a huge relief as the weather forecast had been a bit dodgy to say the least. It’s estimated that up to 3,000 people visited. Having spent much of the last year organising it, it was lovely to see so many happy, smiling faces – both visitors and stallholders alike. The festival also further proved what an excellent venue Radovljica is for outdoor events.
Below are a few photos of the day, for posterity’s sake, of course!

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Photo: Roman Baloh

Of course, it didn’t take long for people to start asking if the festival will become a regular event. And the answer is … watch this space!
© Adele in Slovenia

 

An Extra Scrumptiously Sweet Weekend Ahead in Radovljica!

If you don’t have any plans yet for this weekend, then you’ll definitely want to head to Radovljica! Why? Well, because there’s not just ONE but TWO great ‘sweet’ festivals!

The first, on Saturday 23rd September, is the Festival of Honey at the Beekeeping Education Centre of Gorenjska in Lesce.

The festival , which opens at 10am, includes, among other things, a market selling honey and other beekeeping-related products, tastings, and workshops for children.

At 12.30pm, adults can learn about and try honey beer, while Jaka the Clown will visit the festival at 3.30pm to entertain children.

Then, on Sunday 24th September I’d like to invite you (all!) to a festival that I’ve been working on for over six months and which I’m organising in its entirety and voluntarily – Festival of Gluten-Free Flavours and Fun!

As regular readers of my blog will know, I have coeliac disease so eating gluten-free food is a necessity. It is estimated that one in 100 people worldwide have coeliac disease, but only around 30% have received a diagnosis. Getting a diagnosis can be difficult because there are so many symptoms that may, or may not, be a sign of coeliac disease.

The description of coeliac disease according to Coeliac UK is: Coeliac disease (pronounced see-liac) is a serious illness where the body’s immune system attacks its own tissues when you eat gluten. This causes damage to the lining of the gut and means the body can’t properly absorb nutrients from food. Coeliac disease is not an allergy or food intolerance.

Despite being a small country, Slovenia has a lot of providers of gluten-free food, but they are spread throughout the country. In addition to coeliacs, there are also a lot of people who don’t eat gluten for other reasons and who may not be aware of the great range of food available, hence I decided to arrange a festival at which the vast majority of the providers of gluten-free food are present all in one place.

But I didn’t just stop at that, oh no! I decided I wanted it to be a festival for EVERYONE! So, I’ve put together a packed entertainment programme that includes something for all the family, including a children’s programme, archery for children, live music by the Avsenik House Ensemble, Mitja Šinkovec, and Lombardo, free chocolate tasting at the Radolska čokolada chocolatier, free guided tours and more.

Hot and cold food will be available all day from 10am to 5pm, including burgers, kebabs, pizzas, cakes of all shapes and sizes, pies, tarts, biscuits, goulash, pancakes, waffles, burek, gluten-free beer, coffee and other hot drinks, cold soft drinks and more.

Take a look at the full programme below. Entrance is free!

The forecast for Sunday is giving me sleepless nights, as it keeps changing. The festival, however, will take place regardless of the weather. The festival will take place in Radovljica park or, in the event of rain, in Radovljica Manor and Linhart Square.

To end, here’s some other food-related news from Radovljica and elsewhere in Slovenia.

Yesterday, chef Ana Roš’s restaurant Hiša Franko became the first Slovenian establishment to be awarded three Michelin stars, the highest accolade conferred by the restaurant guide. Milka in Kranjska Gora was promoted from one to two stars and seven more restaurants won one star each, including Radovljica’s Hiša Linhart, which retained both it’s Michelin Star and Green Star, the latter is awarded to restaurants who are especially committed to sustainable gastronomy. Congratulations Uroš Štefelin, Marcela Klofutar and the entire team at Hiša Linhart!

So, come rain or shine, Radovljica will be the place to be this weekend!

© Adele in Slovenia

Wild Weather and Scrumptious (gluten-free) Štruklji!

While much of Europe is basking, or rather sweltering, in record-high temperatures, this ‘summer’ here in Slovenia has, so far, been marked by some mega storms, the likes of which have never been seen at this time of year, if ever.

The extreme hail and gale-force winds have wreaked havoc throughout the country, and there’s more predicted for later this week too. So, everyone is waiting and praying that there isn’t a repeat of last week, which brought significant damage to cars, roofs, crops, houses and more.

Toča po neurju v Krškem

On a more positive note, here in the Gorenjska region, i.e. the mountainous region of Slovenia, temperatures tend not to get as high as at the coast and the southeast part of the country. And even if they do, you are never far from a forest to take shelter in, a mountain to climb for some cooler air, or a pool or lake to jump into to cool off.

Here in Radovljica, we are lucky to have the Karavanke range and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps to the north, the Jelovica plateau to the south, and the Julian Alps on the doorstep, the only problem is, with so much choice, it can be hard to decide where to go!

Radovljiška ravnina

Last Wednesday, however, the decision was easy, as I had found out that the lady who runs the mountain hut on the Vodiška planina mountain pasture makes gluten-free štruklji, a real rarity indeed, in fact, quite possibly the only mountain hut that offers them.

It’s actually quite difficult to describe what štruklji are, other than to say they are made using a light dough mixture that is rolled out very thinly then filled and rolled, like a Swiss roll, before being steamed or boiled. The fillings can be sweet or savoury, depending on how creative and adventurous you want to be!

Photo: štruklji at Gostisce Draga in the Draga Valley

I can count on one hand how many times I’ve eaten them since being diagnosed with coeliac disease, so to find gluten-free ones, and so close to home – relatively speaking – is a real treat.

Below I’ve described the route I took up to the hut, which begins in Kropa, but there are also numerous other routes up to the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, including from the village of Kamna Gorica.

The most direct, albeit steepest, trail begins at St. Leonard’s church – one of two churches in the village.

The trail leads steeply up through the forest, with not much let up in terms of steepness until about the halfway point, which is the meeting point of paths that the lead up from other parts of Kropa.

It takes about half an hour to reach the halfway point, then within another half an hour or so, you emerge onto the mountain pasture.

The pasture is also a meeting point of numerous trails, so you can easily extend your hike in numerous directions.

But this time, we were there for the food! Those with coeliac disease, or those of you who know someone with it, will know that cross-contamination is a big deal (read: ‘problem’), something that so often places that claim to offer gluten-free food don’t take into account. However, as soon as I contacted the lady who runs the hut, her reply was such that I knew immediately that she knew about coeliac disease, so I had no hesitation in ordering them upon my arrival.

And I certainly wasn’t disappointed! I think my smile says it all!

In addition, because flour isn’t used to thicken any of the soups or stews, we ordered jota – a traditional Slovenian cabbage and bean stew, which you can order with or without Carniolan sausage.

Visit Radol’ca recently published a blog on its own website about what food is available at mountain huts in the surrounding area; in fact, it was whilst translating the blog that I discovered that gluten-free štruklji were available! Click here to read more and Dober tek (Enjoy your meal!) as we say here!

© Adele in Slovenia