Eat, Drink and Be Merry in Festive Radovljica!

Word is rapidly spreading about how beautiful the Christmas decorations are this year in Linhart Square – the heart of the old town of Radovljica. If you haven’t visited yet, be sure to do so and find out why it’s the talk of the town, and further afield too!

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Photo: Miran Kambič (www.slovenia.info)

Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays are the best time to visit when there is a small Advent Market as well as live entertainment for all the family. The Advent Market is also open on Christmas Day and Boxing Day (26th December), and on both days there are street performances at 5pm. For the full programme, click here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/festive-december-in-linhart-square/83/395/

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Photo: Miran Kambič (www.slovenia.info)

And while you are here, why not take some time to Taste Radol’ca too!

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Kunstelj Inn’s famous cake pops with a Christmas twist!

Since it can be a little bit of a faff, or at least I think so, trying to find out which restaurants are/aren’t open and when during the festive season, I decided to take it upon myself to do the hard work and compile all the information in one place i.e. here! So below is a full list – or rather of those that responded to my request for information. Note: restaurants are open as usual in the period between Christmas and New Year, unless otherwise stated below.

Gostilna Avguštin – 24.12: 9am-6pm, 25.12: Closed, 31.12: 9am-6pm, 1.1: 12noon-8pm

Gostilna Kunstelj – 24.12: 12noon-3pm, 25.12: 12noon-10pm, 30.12 open as usual + 6pm-8pm Cocktail Party, 31.12: 12noon-5pm + 7pm-10pm New Year’s Dinner (reservations required)

Gostišče Draga – 24.12: 11am-3pm, 25.12: 10am-6pm, 26.12: 10am-6pm, 27.12: Closed, 28/29.12: 11am-9pm, 30.12: 11am-10pm, 31.12: 10am-3pm, 1.1: 10am-6pm

Gostišče Tulipan – 24.12+25.12: Closed, 31.12: Open + New Year’s Dinner (reservations required)

Lectar Inn – Open daily throughout the year from 9am – 10pm

Vila Podvin* – 24.12: 12noon-5pm, 25.12: 12noon-5pm, 31.12 Open + New Year’s Dinner (reservations required), 1.1: 12noon-5pm

Joštov Hram – 24.12: 9am-5pm, 25/26.12: Closed, 27-30.12: 9am-10pm, 31.12: 9am-5pm, 1/2.1: Closed

* If you haven’t the time, or the will, to rustle up a gourmet home-cooked Christmas lunch, this year Vila Podvin is offering a fully-prepared takeaway version of their Christmas lunch. You could even pretend you made it yourself! More information and the full menu can be found on the Vila Podvin Facebook page (see the post, in both Slovene and English, dated 6th December).

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So, armed with information about what events are taking place, as well as information about restaurant opening times, there are now no excuses not to visit Radovljica this festive season! What are you waiting for?!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

New Year’s Eve in Slovenia – How, Where and Hangover Cures!

Generally speaking, Slovenes love New Year’s Eve and really go to town when it comes to celebrating! So, if you are going to be, or are thinking about, celebrating New Year’s Eve in Slovenia, here are some ideas of how, and where, to see in the new year in style.

You won’t have to go far to find new year’s celebrations, since pretty much every village, town, and city has some kind of celebration. And even if you don’t see them, you will certainly hear them!

The biggest crowds gather in the Slovene capital, Ljubljana, where numerous events take place, the highlight being the fireworks display launched from the Ljubljana Castle hill. Find more information about New Year’s Even in Ljubljana here – https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/events/page-12848/

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There are New Year’s Eve concerts held in several of the city centre squares from 9pm onwards.

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Lake Bled is another popular place to spend New Year’s Eve. I saw in the new year there a few years back; first taking a (brisk!) walk around the lake, then settling down with a friend and a mug of mulled wine to watch the fireworks display above the lake.

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There are New Year’s Eve celebrations in all the major cities, including Maribor, Celje, Novo Mesto, Nova Gorica, Piran, Kranj, Velenje etc., as well as smaller local events.

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New Year’s Eve in Maribor, Photo: http://www.maribor-pohorje.si (Profoto studio)

A more unique way to see in the new year is to visit the mountains. Quite a few of Slovenia’s mountain huts hold house parties on New Year’s Eve. Expect hearty food alongside the wood-burner, plenty of schnapps, and obligatory singing! Of course, don’t forget that the next morning – yes, the one after the night before – you will have to hike back down!

You might find the hut half buried in snow, as I did here on the Pokljuka plateau, but that’s all part of the fun! A pair of snowshoes, as seen below, definitely aids access when conditions are like this.

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If it’s a nice sunny New Year’s Day, what better hangover cure can there be than this!

If you prefer a ‘hair of the dog’ style hangover cure, then be sure to try out one of numerous kinds of Slovenian homemade fruit schnapps, but beware, the homemade versions are often strong enough to blow your socks off!

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I have to admit to being a bit of a killjoy when it comes to New Year’s Eve. I can take it or leave it, preferring Christmas and time spent with family to loud parties and – as we all know – the world is always still the same the next day, despite all the new year’s resolutions! However, since I’ve been in Slovenia, I have tried to embrace New Year’s Eve a little more, and have tried a number of different ways of celebrating.

If you’ve been a good girl or boy, then Old Man Winter (Dedek Mraz) may visit on New Year’s Eve! I met him at Vila Podvin on New Year’s Eve 2014/2015, whilst enjoying a gourmet dinner prepared by one of Slovenia’s top chefs, Uroš Štefelin. Families with young children especially enjoy the New Year’s Eve celebrations at Vila Podvin. This year the fun begins at 7pm – reservations essential.

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New Year 2015/2016 was spent at another local restaurant, Kunstelj Inn, whilst other years I have just walked from home into the heart of my hometown of Radovljica where the celebrations are focused around the historic old town centre, with live music and merriment. This year in Linhart Square, the heart of the medieval old town, there will be live music and merriment with the Gašperji Ensemble from 11pm – 2am.

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There have been a couple of times when temperatures having been well below freezing and I couldn’t face going out in the cold and the appeal of staying home in the warm won over! If you do venture out in the cold at midnight, be sure to wrap up well!

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Wherever and however you choose to celebrate, I wish you a very HAPPY NEW YEAR and a healthy and prosperous 2017!

© Adele in Slovenia

Taste Radol’ca 2016 – The Final Party but Far From the End!

In one way I was pleased to see the back of November – 22 days of rain, with the odd bit of snow thrown in for good measure – but the end of November also brought the end of the month-long Taste Radol’ca 2016, which isn’t so much sad as time for a celebration of all the hard work put in by the chefs during the past month and the even harder work put in by the diners – including me – having the tough job of trying out all the menus! If nothing else, my waistline will be pleased it has come to an end, though, with the festive season all but here, there’s still plenty of gluttony to come, no doubt!

Each year different restaurants host the opening and closing events and this year the Taste Radol’ca Final Party took place at Draga Inn in Begunje na Gorenjskem. We began outside with hot punch, much needed on a chilly December evening, and food to keep us warm provided by Gostilna Tavčar and the Globočnik Excursion Farm.

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In contrast to the opening event, which is a somewhat more formal sit-down multi-course meal that showcases the talented chefs, the final party is more a relaxed, social, let-your-hair down party and a chance to hobnob with the chefs. Thanks Uroš (Vila Podvin) and Mišo (Joštov Hram) for helping keep me warm!

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The chefs from the 13 participating restaurants once again did a magnificent job, each preparing a small dish for us to try.

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Bite-size dishes, each of them delicious, and all made using local ingredients. Too numerous were the dishes to show them all, but here are a few photos to drool over! Gostilna Tulipan dished up smoked pork neck with curd cheese on a bed of barley.

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The ever-popular Joštov Hram mini-burgers were a big hit!

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I found my place next to the log-burner to keep warm and enjoy mine!

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Jože and chef Aleš from Lectar Inn had a great system going providing us with their homemade štruklji.

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And of course the desserts didn’t disappoint either. Chestnut cake prepared by Gostilna Avguštin.

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And a delicious creation by Maja at Kunstelj Inn – a winning combination of a gingerbread base with a caramelised walnut, apple and meringue topping.

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But, it’s far from the end of the Taste Radol’ca story. In addition to their regular menus, all participating restaurants also offer Taste Radol’ca dishes, prepared using local ingredients, throughout the year. You can identify these dishes on menus by the small coloured bee next to the name of the dish.

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So, what are you waiting for, you can now Taste Radol’ca all year-round!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Time for Tea at the Čajna Soba Tea Shop!

It might surprise you to know that prior to moving to Slovenia I had never in my life drunk tea! Yes, and that coming from an Englishwoman – since we British are known for liking a cuppa or two!

However, that changed when I moved here, primarily because during the long cold winters I really needed to start drinking something hot, since I don’t like coffee either, or milk come to that! And that’s when I discovered green tea and now I drink nothing but, even during summer.

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Since then I’ve tried hundreds of different varieties of tea – both in tea bag and loose-leaf form. Though the convenience of the humble teabag sometimes can’t be beaten, I am now a convert to loose-leaf teas – none of that traditional English ‘builders’ tea for me and definitely NO MILK!

Therefore, I was delighted when the new Čajna Soba tea shop (‘čajna soba’ means ‘tea room’ though its more of a tea shop than a tea room) opened a few months ago in Linhart Square, the heart of Radovljica’s old town. It offers a wide range of loose-leaf teas, all of which smell delicious, making it tough to choose which to try and buy.

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The owner of Čajna Soba, Nizar, is more than happy to spend time with customers explaining the process of how the tea leaves are picked and prepared and how best to brew tea to ensure the leaves have enough space to fully open thus imparting the most flavour. His enthusiasm is infectious and since my visit I’ve become much more aware of preparing tea as it should be, to do justice to the hard work involved in its production.

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You can also make yourself comfy, have a chat and/or read more about tea whilst enjoying a brew or get a ‘Tea-to-Go’.

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With Christmas just around the corner, there are a selection of gifts for tea lovers, or just treat yourself!

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I also learnt that buying loose-leaf teas is actually a smart choice financially. As Nizar pointed out, when we buy teabags in the supermarket, we – and I include myself in this – usually only look at the ‘small’ price i.e. the price per box of teabags, but what we should look for its the price per kilogramme.

In many cases, even for the seemingly cheapest of teas, this price can be astronomical, added to which the majority of supermarket teabags contain only powdered remnants of the actual tea leaves. Thus buying loose-leaf tea, which at Čajna Soba costs EUR 3.50 per 100g – only around 2g is needed per cuppa therefore 100g makes approx. 50 cups of tea – is a no-brainer, quality tea at winning prices!

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Nizar’s teas are also served at the Gostilna Avgustin restaurant, one of the participating Taste Radol’ca restaurants, which is located directly opposite Čajna Soba.

I believe its important to shop locally and support local businesses, so I know where I’ll be buying my tea from now on and, if you live in or near Radovljica, or are visiting the area, pop in and try some for yourself too!

More information here – http://cajnasoba.si/

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Festive Radovljica: Christmas Market and Family Entertainment Galore!

It might not be the biggest of Slovenia’s Christmas markets, but the setting for Radovljica’s Advent Market, in the heart of the medieval old town – one of the 3 best preserved of its kind in Slovenia – makes it among the cutest and most attractive! Combined with the festive entertainment programme, which offers something for all the family, a visit to Radovljica should be on your list if you are spending time in Slovenia during this festive season.

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Photo: Pakt media

The festive programme kicks off this Friday 2nd December with the Christmas lights switch on at 4.30pm, and entertainment from DJ Darmar, performances by the Studio Ritem Dance Studio and the opening of the Advent Market.

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The Advent Market is open every Friday (3pm-8pm), Saturday and Sunday (10am-8pm) throughout December, and additionally on Christmas Eve (10an-5pm), Christmas Day (10am-7pm), and Boxing Day (26th Dec – 10am-8pm).

Below are just some of the highlights of the festive entertainment programme. Unless otherwise stated, all events take place in Linhart Square. Click here for the full programme – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/festive-december-in-linhart-square/83/395/

3rd & 11th December – Fairytale Horses for Children

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9-11th December – Open Day at the Lectar Gingerbread Workshop

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17th December at 8pm – Opera Concert: Baritone Ivan Andres Arnšek and pianist Mojca Lavrenčič (Radovljica Manor)

24th December at 11am – Čupakarba: Stilt walkers and jugglers

25th Dec at 5pm – Ana Snežna Street Theatre

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26th December at 5pm – Čupakabra and Priden Možic: Sodrga – street show with fire

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There are also creative workshops for children, performances by local choirs and bands, carol singing and more!

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You can find out more about what else to see and do in Slovenia during the festive period, more about Christmas markets, and some information about Christmas food and customs in my recent blog post here – https://adeleinslovenia.com/2016/11/20/christmas-2016-in-slovenia-christmas-markets-food-and-traditions/

© Adele in Slovenia

Taste Radol’ca 2016: Gourmet Delights at Grajska Gostilnica

With just 10 days to go of this year’s Taste Radol’ca, I’m running out of time to get round to tasting them all (for you!) – but I’m doing my best!

My latest foray was to another of my favourite local haunts, Grajska Gostilnica, which is located in the centre of Radovljica, directly opposite the town park, within just a few hundred metres of the bus and train stations – thus ideally located for anyone reliant on public transport – and just a 5 minute walk for me!

The imagination and creativity of Taste Radol’ca chefs, who conjure up gourmet meals using local ingredients and for just 16 euros per person, knows no bounds, and each and every restaurant offers its own interpretation and imaginative presentation of Slovenian food at its best.

So, onto the food….

To begin, an amuse-bouche of buckwheat blini with an albumin curd cheese and horseradish cream and cured bacon.

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The starter was cream of leek soup with mushroom profiteroles.

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The main course, a work of art on a plate, tasted as good as it looked! Pork fillet stuffed with spinach in a herb crust, beetroot gnocchi, pumpkin puree with goat’s yoghurt and potato chips with black sesame seeds.

It was all delicious but, as a lover of gnocchi, the beetroot gnocchi were the stand-out part for me. Borut – please add these to the regular menu!!!

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Chef and owner Borut is something of an expert when it comes to desserts, so I was expecting, and hoping for, something exceptional, and I wasn’t disappointed.

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The waiter arrived first with the dessert, then disappeared back to the kitchen, emerging with a jug of hot raspberry sauce which he poured over the chocolate ‘lava’ cake, causing a volcano-like effect.

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Just 10 days to go, so don’t miss out the chance to try some of these delights! More information about Taste Radol’ca can be found here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/taste-radolca-2016/83/394/

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

Taste Radol’ca 2016: Gostilna Avguštin, Great Food & To Die For Views Too!

It was absolutely delighted when I found out that Gostilna Avguštin was under new management and had joined Taste Radol’ca, since I had long wondered why this traditional restaurant, located in the heart of the historic old town of Radovljica, and with to die for views, did not take part in any of the town’s events and festivals. Thank goodness, then, that 2 young enterprising brothers, who previously worked at the restaurant as waiters, have taken over its running, and with it brought a fresh new approach to customer service and upgraded the menu of traditional food.

In fine weather the views from the terrace of Gostilna Avguštin are magnificent; Slovenia’s highest mountain, Mt. Triglav, can be seen in the background with the snow-capped Julian Alps and the Pokljuka plateau in the foreground, and the Jelovica plateau and the Sava river dominating the immediate view.

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Gostilna Avguštin was somewhere I often used to frequent in the first few years after I moved here. However, it then went through a bit of a – let’s just say – ‘wobbly’ stage, whereby sometimes it was fantastic, other times far less so, and I then began to go elsewhere. So, it’s really fantastic news that it is back to its best – well actually, even better – and that there is now another restaurant serving delicious Slovenian food right on my doorstep – now you won’t be able to keep me away!

So, on to the food! I tried out the Taste Radol’ca menu, of which there is a choice of 2, which is excellent value at just 16 euros for 3 courses, and all ingredients are from the local area.

To start I had pumpkin soup, which just happens to be my favourite type of soup on the planet, so it certainly hit the spot! The added pumpkin-seed oil, pumpkin seeds and homemade onion bread were the icing on the cake (icing on the soup?)!

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The main course consists of a hearty plate of pork fillet stuffed with prunes, buckwheat struklji and bacon-wrapped vegetables. It really was delicious and beautifully presented too.

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I always like to have a peek into the kitchens of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants where possible, to see the master chefs at work! So, I snuck in to watch dessert being prepared – chestnut cake.

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So, if it’s been a while since you last visited, or indeed you have never visited, do hot foot it down to Gostilna Avguštin soon!

© Adele in Slovenia

The early bird catches the early winter of 2016!

Winter seems to have come early this year and, though the snow might look beautiful, I can’t say I’m ecstatic about it!

The past 2 years we haven’t had any significant snow until after Christmas, but last week’s dismal weather brought quite a significant amount of snow to higher-lying areas, and even a bit of the white stuff fell in lower-lying areas too.

I’m trying to be optimistic that perhaps we will still get a (very) late autumn with some milder temperatures, though, it’s look increasingly unlikely. But ‘glass-half-full’ and all that…

So, in an attempt to once again get accustomed to winter, I was up with the lark and braved freezing early morning temperatures to head up St. Peter’s Church above Begunje na Gorenjskem, just 10 minutes drive from Radovljica.

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Though its not easy to drag myself out of bed when it’s so cold and dark, the rewards are (usually!) worth it, which was certainly the case this time, as you can see below!

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The valley was still shrouded in low cloud and Triglav and the other peaks of the Julian Alps were looking particularly majestic.

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I continued up to Smokuški vrh.

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And this was my reward. Brilliant, warm sunshine and stunning views. It was tempting to linger there for a while, alas, the pile of translating awaiting me at home was ever present on my mind. But, I’d go, and will go, again in a heartbeat, even if it means an all-to-early start to the day!

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A case of the early bird catches the worm and the early winter and all that…!

© Adele in Slovenia

Taste Radol’ca 2016 – A Taste of Tradition at Gostilna Tavčar

Though I had been meaning to do so for a while, I had yet to visit Gostilna Tavčar in Begunje na Gorenjskem since it changed hands. Therefore, a visit to try the Taste Radol’ca 2016 menu gave me the perfect excuse!

Gostilna Tavčar is a typically traditional Slovenian restaurant and, what particularly struck me was, despite it being my first visit, I was greeted like an old friend. Since it re-opened the restaurant has become a firm favourite with locals – always a good sign, I think. A large part of that can, no doubt, be attributed not only to the great food, but also to the chef and owner, Mitja, who likes to take time out of the kitchen to mingle with guests.

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Mitja describes himself as “one of the old-school generation of cooks” and there’s nothing wrong with that I say!

Now, time to get down to the serious business of the food! The starter was guinea fowl pate with grated ‘tepka‘ pears and homemade buckwheat and walnut bread.

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I then sneaked into the kitchen to see my main course being cooked – the finest Angus rumpsteak, no less! And, as with all Taste Radol’ca menus, it costs just 16 euros for 3 courses, all made using local ingredients, and excellent value for money.

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My steak arrived – cooked to perfection – accompanied by chestnut puree and red cabbage.

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With just a dessert-sized space left in my stomach, it too didn’t disappoint. Tavčar plum mošnjiček – light pastry pockets served warm filled with hot plum sauce and strawberries.

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Gostilna Tavčar is open daily and also offers light lunches (malice), lunches and dinners as well as weekend and Sunday lunch specials.

Taste Radol’ca menus are available at 13 participating restaurants for the entire month of November. You can find more information about Taste Radol’ca here – http://www.radolca.si/en/what-to-do/events-1/taste-radolca-2016/83/394/

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Taste Radol’ca 2016 at Draga Inn – A Winning Start!

As there are 13 restaurants involved in this year’s Taste Radol’ca, I made a start last week already at attempting to try as many as possible during the month of November – all in the name of blog research for you, dear readers, of course!

Having perused the menus, I plumped for Draga Inn (Gostišče Draga), located in the Draga valley in Begunje na Gorenjskem, for my first Taste Radol’ca 2016 meal, and what a fine choice it was too!

There are 2 four-course menus to choose from, both costing just 16 euros, which is fantastic value and, as is the whole ethos of Taste Radol’ca, all products are sourced from local suppliers. I’ll let the photos of the food do (most of) the talking!

I opted for Menu I. but swapped to the Menu II. starter – game ragu with homemade cheese and bacon strukelj.

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The alternative starter is smoked trout with horseradish, honey and creamed celery.

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This was followed by cream of barley soup with chanterelle mushrooms.

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I’m still salivating when I think about the main course – succulent wild pork in cranberry sauce, calf cheek, puree of carrot, and bean strukelj.

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For those opting for Menu II. there is fillet of trout with mixed seeds, vegetable bake and pumpkin jam, which, although I’m not a lover of fish, also looked delicious.

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The portion sizes (even for my large appetite!) were just perfect, therefore we still, just about, had room for dessert. Strawberry dumpling, cinnamon ice-cream, and honey and chocolate cream.

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Sitting next to the log-burner, the ambience was cosy and warm and it was delightful to enjoy great food in the company of good friends – a welcome change from dining on my tod! So, thanks Jana, Tone and Pia!

So, one down, only 12 to go, though, this meal was so good, I have a feeling I will have to squeeze in another visit to Draga Inn before the month is out!

© Adele in Slovenia