Let the Festive Season Begin!

During my morning runs through Linhart Square over the past couple of weeks since returning to the Radovljica area, I was able to see the Christmas tree steadily taking shape as well as the gradual adorning of the square with various natural decorations and festive lights.

A festively-decorated window at Hiša Linhart restaurant with rooms in Linhart Square, Radovljica

All of which was the build-up to the switching on of the festive lights, which took place last weekend. As ever, locals, as well as visitors from further afield, came out in their thousands to marvel at the decorations, soak up the festive atmosphere, enjoy some mulled wine and some tasty local food cooked by some of the Taste Radol’ca restaurants.

Festive decorations in Linhart Square, Radovljica

Switching on of the festive lights in Linhart Square, Radovljica

Of course, it’s not just Radovljica that has adorned its festive appearance, but also many other cities, towns and villages throughout Slovenia. Some of the most notable are Ljubljana, as well as Celje, Koper, Kranjska Gora and Maribor. And since Slovenia is small, everywhere is within a few hours’ drive, so you can easily visit numerous towns and cities to soak up the festive atmosphere, visit Christmas markets, etc.

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Christmas lights in the square by the Triple Bridge in Ljubljana

After the big switch on, comes the visit of the first of the ‘Three Good Men’ – St. Nicholas (the other two being Father Christmas and Grandfather Frost). St. Nicholas (Dedek mraz in Slovene) is a legendary figure similar to Father Christmas, whose roots are in Slavic mythology. He, like Father Christmas, arrives in towns and villages, and, together with his helpers, brings presents to children who have been good.

St. Nicholas (dedek mraz)

One of St. Nicholas’s helpers in Linhart Square

St. Nicholas is celebrated on 6th December, which this year falls on a Saturday – an ideal day to visit the monthly Radol’ca farmers and craft market in Linhart Square (open from 10 a.m. to 12 noon), then later you can watch the arrival of Saint Nicholas (at 5 p.m.), followed by a street show by the Cizamo Theatre, titled Snežko smeško (The Funny Snowman).

On Saturday 20th December, a special Festive Family Day will take place in Linhart Square, featuring creative workshops, fairy tale horses, a Čupakabra circus show and live music, along with a full-day ARTish fair and Taste Radol’ca street food.

A series of Street Shows will take place throughout December, including on Christmas Day and Boxing Day (26th December). It has become quite a tradition when my family visit from the UK to go for a stroll to the old town centre and watch one, or more, of the shows.

Of course, there’s plenty more going on too, so click here for the full calendar of events this December in Radol’ca.

With this being my last post of this year, it’s time for a bit of reflection. It’s certainly been a busy year, what with moving (twice!), starting a new job (twice!), getting married (just once!), organising Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, setting up Gluten-Free Hub EU, and plenty more in between.

So, here’s to 2026. Happy Christmas and Happy New Year to all readers from near and far. I hope you continue to follow me on my ‘journey’ next year too!

© Adele in Slovenia

A Return to Radol’ca!

For those of you who don’t know, I moved to Slovenia, specifically Radovljica – from the UK – in 2007, and have lived here ever since. Well, that is up until 1st July this year when, due to being let down at the last minute re the purchase of a flat, also in Radovljica, we had to temporarily move elsewhere; albeit not far, just up the valley to Gozd Martuljek, near Kranjska Gora.

Whilst Gozd Martuljek is a true paradise – nature, peace and a wealth of outdoor opportunities, particularly the traffic-free cycle track into Italy – I don’t know anyone there and with the onset of winter, I was very pleased to return to the Radol’ca area early this November. To be able to again walk and cycle familiar routes, see familiar faces and feel at ‘home’ is priceless.

It wasn’t long before I was out exploring some of my favourite walks and hikes, a couple of which I’d like to share with you.

The first, and one of my regular ‘haunts’ starts near the Tourist Information Centre in Begunje na Gorenjskem, from where there are numerous trails leading up to St. Peter’s Church.

The church and the nearby Sankaška koča hut can be a destination in themself or you can continue, like I regularly do, onward to the Smokuški vrh viewpoint, from where there are wonderful views towards Lake Bled and the Julian Alps.

One of the most well-known mountain huts and hikes in the area is to the Roblekov dom mountain hut on Mt. Begunščica in the Karavanke mountains. Since I’ve been there many, many times, and since we have a joint passion for exploring lesser-trodden paths, we decided to approach it from the other side, i.e. from the Završnica Valley in the neighbouring municipality of Žirovnica.

By following the red and white circular trail markers, you can do a circular hike by taking the trail from the Završnica valley up to the Roblekov dom mountain hut.

Before reaching the Poljška planina pasture, which is about halfway, the trail markers lead down towards the pasture before heading up again towards the Roblekov dom mountain hut. Alternatively, if, like us, you spot yellow markers on trees and opt to follow them, you will also reach the hut on a pleasant trail, though you do need to keep your eyes out for the markers.

To make the route circular, from the hut, hike down to the Poljška planina mountain pasture, from where you take the marked route towards the Sankaška koča hut, branching off for Smokuški vrh and following the ridge (as described in a previous blog here https://adeleinslovenia.com/2024/08/21/a-radolca-ridge-hike/), from where you can return to the Završnica valley.

Before setting off on these, or any other hiking trails in the area, be sure to take a look at the map of hiking trails and/or pop into the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre for more information, and be sure you are properly equipped, which means having good footwear too!

With winter fast approaching, too fast for my liking, if you are planning a visit to Slovenia, you might like to read my previous blog titled 5 Great Winter Hikes in Radovljica and the Surroundings.

The countdown to the festive season is on, and the Christmas tree in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town – is taking shape. The switching on of the festive lights will take place on 30th November, which is always a magical event for all the family.

©Adele in Slovenia

 

 

A Gluten-Free, Jam-Packed Weekend Ahead!

For the last three years, September has been by far the busiest month of the year, and this year is no exception. Why you may ask? Well because, for all my sins, I’m the initiator and organiser of Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia – the biggest gluten-free event in the country, and possibly currently also in the region.

It began in 2023 as a festival, then was last year upgraded to an Expo, which, of course, means even more work for me. I suppose some might say I’ve only got myself to blame, but, as a coeliac myself, I somehow found myself wanting to help by providing an event for fellow coeliacs, as well as those with an intolerance to gluten and foodies in general. Why the latter? Because these days, gluten-free food has come a long way and, with the exception of a few ready packaged products, you often wouldn’t even know its gluten free, and that is certainly the case with all the delicious, fresh food on offer at Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia!

Of course, the fact its held in Radovljica, my favourite town in Slovenia, is an added bonus!

This year’s Expo begins on Saturday 27th September with an Algerian cookery workshop, followed by a special Farmer’s Feast lunch at Lincer in Lesce.

Then, in the evening, treat yourself to a really unique Two Chefs’ Dinner at Hiša Linhart, cooked by Michelin-starred chef Uroš Štefelin and Janez Repolusk, himself a coeliac, from Gostilna Repolusk in Slovenia’s Koroška (Carinthia) region.

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In between, there will be enough time to visit Kamen Castle in Begunje na Gorenjskem, where, as part of the Pranger Festival of Poetry, Criticism, Translation and Reading, you can enjoy the ambience of poetry reading (albeit in Maltese, but it’s about expression rather than understanding) and accordion music, amid the scenic backdrop of the castle ruins. Or if that doesn’t appeal, work up an appetite by making the short hike on the St. Peter’s Trail up to St. Peter’s Church above the village or take one of the theme trails in the area.

Also as part of the Pranger Festival, an art market will take place in Linhart Square in Radovljica from 10 a.m. on Saturday 27th September.

More about the Pranger Festival here (in Slovene): https://www.radolca.si/sl/koledar-prireditev/festival-pranger and in English: https://pranger.si/en/

Sunday 28th September is the main day of Gluten-Free Expo Slovenia, when there will be over 25 stalls in Linhart Square – the heart of Radovljica’s old town – where you can try and buy a whole range of food, gluten-free of course, though you won’t know it!

In addition, there will be a series of cookery demonstrations and talks (English translation will be available for the latter), a magician, live music and more.

For more information and to make bookings for any of the workshops, talks or lunches/dinners, get in touch by sending an email to glutenfreeexposlo@gmail.com

Here’s a glimpse into last year’s Expo.

Please do come along to say ‘Hi’ and to support me/us in our endeavours to put Slovenia on the gluten-free map of the world!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reading in Radovljica: Dormice, Moonshine and More!

When I first moved to Slovenia I was eager and curious to learn more about the country’s history, people, culture, customs and more. At that time, however, books on Slovenia were very few and far between, almost non-existent, other than lengthy, history-heavy books that (almost) require a degree in ‘Slovenology‘ to understand.

Since then, a book titled ‘Slovenology‘, written by an American living in Slovenia, has actually been written, and I enjoyed reading Erica Debeljak’s self-penned memoir Forbidden Bread, but thereafter the list of what I deem ‘readable’ books on Slovenia dried up. That is, until now!

I was therefore delighted to discover a new book about Slovenia, written by a fellow Brit, Sam Baldwin, titled Dormice and Moonshine. I was even more delighted when Sam got in touch with me recently and we sat down together in Radovljica for a chat about what attracted us to Slovenia and life as an expat here.

When not working or hiking-cycling in summer, I like to find time to read, preferably outdoors. There are numerous viewpoints with benches in and around the old town centre of Radovljica, which are ideal for relaxing, soaking up the views and reading. In the heat of summer, there’s nowhere better than the tree-lined avenue in Radovljica’s park.

Arboristična nega dreves v grajskem parku - radovljica.si

For the ultimate view, head to the viewpoint at the end of historic Linhart Square, from where there are wonderful views of the Jelovica plateau, the Lipnica valley and further towards the Julian Alps with Mt. Triglav at the helm.

Another of my favourite viewpoints is located in the public car park between Gostilna Kunstelj and the old town centre.

Now, back to the topic of Dormice and Moonshine! I read the first few chapters in one sitting and can honestly say it’s by far my favourite book on Slovenia, not least because, like me, Sam fell in love with the country mainly due to its wonderful nature and various peculiarities, of which dormice and moonshine are among them! The tale of how he and his brother discovered Slovenia and how they ended up buying a sausage-curing hut, and what followed, is thoroughly entertaining. His encounters with ‘Mr. North’ and the ‘Wine Cowboy’ had me giggling out loud and are a ‘must read’! The only other book(s) that have had that effect on me are by Bill Bryson. So, if, like me, you are a Bryson fan, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy Dormice and Moonshine.

Why the title Dormice and Moonshine? Well, that would be giving too much away, so you’ll have to order a copy and read it for yourself to find out!

With summer in full swing, and 30 degrees temperatures to boot, here are some additional ideas for how and where to keep cool in the heat!

It’s always cooler atop a mountain, well, other than when there is an inversion during winter. So, hiking, particularly in forested areas, is a great way to escape the worst of the heat. But do take clothing with you for all four seasons, as it’s not unheard of to need hats and gloves in the mountains, even in mid-summer, as the temperature and conditions can change very quickly.

Or set off on one of the many theme trails in and around the Radovlijca area, such as the Grabnarca Waterside Nature Trail.

Radovljica’s renovated Olympic swimming pool, which is open-air during summer, as well as the Kropa swimming pool are particularly popular with children at this time of year.

Letni bazen Radovljica

In nearby Tržič, you can descend into the Dovžan gorge, where you follow the course of the Tržiška Bistrica stream for a short distance, and can take the chance to cool off in the refreshing (read: freezing!) water!

But I must end with a word of caution. This year there have (already) been a record amount of rescues in Slovenia’s mountains, many of which have involved tourists who are very poorly equipped and/or have underestimated the mountains or overestimated their abilities. Please don’t be one of them! All the mountain rescuers here are volunteers. Do your homework before setting off. Check the forecast. If you are going on a long hike, or a multi-day hike, be sure to take clothing for all four seasons, as the weather can change very quickly. BE PREPARED!

© Adele Gray

Festive December in Radovljica

There are towns and cities that roll out the same old Christmas lights and decorations year after year, and then there’s Radovljica, which goes to great lengths to come up with a new theme and/or decor for the festive season in the old town every year.

Despite the best attempts by the weather to dampen our spirits, people still turned out en masse yesterday evening, albeit significantly less so than in previous years, to see the switching on of the Christmas lights.

The switch on was followed by an amazing concert by the band Help! A Beatles Tribute. I can’t remember the last time I sung my heart out and bopped non-stop for two hours like I did last night!

This year, Linhart Square – the heart of the old town – is adorned with handwoven wreaths, garlands and decorations made of willow. This year’s highlight are the beautiful hand painted window displays, the work of the local academic artist Meta Šolar, which have turned the old town centre into an outdoor gallery.

Photo: Turizem Radol’ca

Photo: Turizem Radol’ca

But, of course, that was just the start to the festive season, there’s plenty more still to come!

Did you know that in Slovenia there are three ‘good men’ who visit during the festival season; St. Nicholas, Father Christmas and Grandfather Frost? The first of the three, St. Nicholas, ‘delivers’ presents to children on 6th December, while Father Christmas, as we all know, comes down chimneys on Christmas Eve. For those of you who haven’t heard of Grandfather Frost (I hadn’t either before moving here!), it is said that the home of this legendary character, whose roots are in Slavic mythology, is in Russia. He brings gifts for New Year, a custom that dates back to the times when Christmas wasn’t celebrated publicly, rather behind closed doors, in the former Yugoslavia.

The first of the three ‘good men’ will arrive in Radovljica on Sunday 3rd December, when a St. Nicholas Fair will take place from 10am to 7pm, including a visit by St. Nicholas himself, and at 5pm a puppet show titled ‘A Winter Fairy Tale’.

A small Christmas market will take place every Saturday and Sunday through the month of December, and on some dates there are additional activities, such as workshops and street performances.

On Sunday 17 December, the ARTISH Fair will take place from 11am to 6pm. On the same day, from 4pm to 6pm, you can see the CHRISTMAS CARAVAN with Radovljica’s firefighters, all of whom are volunteers and who have been more than heroic this year dealing with the numerous occasions when very heavy flooding has occurred.

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On Friday 22nd December, in addition to the Christmas Market from 3pm to 9pm, there will be a live concert by FED HORSE, and Taste Radol’ca street food.

On Christmas Day, Monday, 25th December, why not walk off your Christmas dinner by taking a stroll to watch a street performance by Ana Snezna, and on Tuesday 26th December, you can visit the Christmas market from 3pm to 7pm, including a street performance at 5pm by ČUPAKABRA.

Photo: Turizem Radol’ca

On Wednesday 27th December, Jan the Magician and Grandpa Frost visit Radovljica. 

And that brings us to New Year’s Eve, when celebrations will kick off in Linhart Square from 10pm.

Come and join in the festive fun, and for those of you unable to make it, I wish you a joyful festive season and a very Merry Christmas!

© Adele in Slovenia

 

Super Saturday in Radovljica!

Last Saturday, 4th February 2023, was Super Saturday in Radovljica for numerous reasons – for me and for many others too!

Our day started with an early morning hike to the Suharna viewpoint on the Jelovica plateau. We set off on foot from Radovljica, and before reaching the start of the trail in Kolnica in the Lipnica valley, we were lucky enough to see a rare rainbow cloud formation. Having enlightened myself (well, Googled it), I discovered this occurs due to cloud iridescence. If you want to know more, Google is your friend, or you can just admire the photo!

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At this time of year a pair of lightweight crampons certainly comes in handy, as the trails are very icy in parts at lower altitudes, whilst up higher (higher than the Jelovica plateau) there is still A LOT of snow.

From Suharna, we first took the path towards the Vodiška planina mountain pasture, but soon turned off that path and took the one down to Kamna Gorica. On reaching the village we then headed up to the Zijavka viewpoint, from where there are lovely views over the village and church.

It was a really sunny day and not too cold, though abnormally windy; Radovljica is usually fairly well sheltered in terms of wind, but last Saturday was an exception, so we were glad of our flask of tea to warm us up. We then headed back to Radovljica via the Fux footbridge over the Sava river and back to Linhart Square, i.e. the heart of the action!

The Radol’ca market takes place on the first Saturday of each month in front of St. Peter’s church in Linhart Square. Since moving from its former location at Vila Podvin in Mošnje it has become increasingly popular. This month I persuaded the organisers (Tourism Radol’ca) to let me arrange a gluten-free corner at the market and, fortunately, they agreed! There were a total of 23 stalls, four of which featured gluten-free goodies – doughnuts, cake pops, bread, rolls, pastry, profiteroles, biscuits galore and more! I advertised the event via the Facebook group that I set up for coeliacs (Celiakaši v Sloveniji), as did each of the four stallholders, but, wow, I/we, weren’t expecting it to be such a hit! They pretty much sold out in less than an hour, and there was me asking the organisers for a one-hour extension to 1pm instead of the 12noon!

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In addition to the gluten-free corner, the market features local producers and suppliers of various fruit, vegetables, cheese and other dairy products, dried meat products, honey, herbs, teas and more – something for everyone!

Some of us – stallholders and fellow coeliacs – then went for to Kavarna Vidic in Linhart Square for a cuppa and a chinwag, during which we planned future such events, of which there will be many!

We then headed home for some lunch before heading out again, well it was such a lovely day (except the wind!) for a walk to the Šobec camp, which is lovely in winter too, before returning alongside the Sava river back to Radovljica.

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It’s amazing how much you can pack into a day in Radovljica; hiking, fab views, good (gluten-free) food, socialising, walking and more!

© Adele in Slovenia

The Radovljica Chocolate Festival is Back!

After a 2-year COVID-enforced hiatus, next weekend Radovljica will again rightly live up to its destination slogan – Honestly Sweet – with the return of the hugely popular Radovjlica Chocolate Festival!

While Radovljica itself hasn’t changed much in the past couple of years – in a positive way, I mean – there are some changes to the forthcoming festival, so I went along to the press preview this Wednesday to find out all the juicy, or rather chocolatey, details!

The opening event of the festival – the gourmet Three Chefs’ Dinner – takes place on Friday 22nd April at Hiša Linhart in Linhart Square. This year the stars of the show will be three young chefs, mentored by three masterchefs.

The festival itself then kicks off on Saturday 23rd April from 9am to 8pm and continues on Sunday 24th April from 9am to 6pm.

The ‘chocolate’ part of the festival will take place this year in Radovljica’s town park, which is just minutes from the main bus station, so ideal if you plan to visit by public transport (unfortunately, maintenance work will be taking place on the railway line, so this year it won’t be possible to come by train).

Chocolatiers from Slovenia, Croatia and Italy will feature at the festival. Among the chocolates available to try (through the purchase of tasting coupons) and buy will be the winning chocolates from the annual festival ‘Best Praline’ competition, which this year was judged by the owners of the prestigious Zotter chocolate factory in Austria.

And Radovljica has even more reason to be proud, since first place was awarded to the chocolate and buckwheat praline made by the new Radol’ca Chocolate chocolatier!

The new Radovljica chocolate hearts made by the Molinet chocolatier in Kropa will also make their debut at the festival.

Meanwhile, in Linhart Square – the heart of the medieval old town – there will be a jam-packed entertainment programme with something for all the family.

The main highlights of this year’s entertainment programme include cookery workshops (chocolate, of course!), live music and dance performances, a chocolate roulette wheel, a 100kg ‘bar’ of Gorenjka chocolate to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Gorenjska chocolate, stand-up comedy, face-painting, discount entry to the Museum of Apiculture, non-chocolate food from Taste Radol’ca (Hiša Linhart and Gostišče Draga) and more.

Click here to find the full programme for both days.

Hope to see you here in ‘Honestly Sweet’ Radovljica!

© Adele in Slovenia

The Best Views in Radovljica – You Don’t Need to Go Far!

As the title of this blog elicits, you are never far from a stunning view in Radovljica, and you don’t even need to don your hiking boots or work up a sweat to savour the views either!

There are numerous great vantage points in and around Radovljica, all of which are within a 10-15 minute walk of the old town. Let’s start with the closest and work our way backwards, i.e. away from Linhart Square – the heart of the historic old town centre.

The viewing platform at the end of the old town is a great way to get a ‘feel for the land’. You can see the Sava river, the Jelovica plateau, and the Julian Alps – with Slovenia’s highest mountain, Mt. Triglav.

From the old town walk to the car park that it just a few metres ahead and you will see another viewpoint with a bench and similar views to those from the old town.

Now ahead away from the old town towards the Radovljica swimming pool, which is currently under reconstruction. Behind the pool there is a small hill called Obla gorica. Walk up and along its length, where you can also try out the brand new trim trail. The views are somewhat obscured by trees, but where there is a gap in the trees, there are great views to be had.

There is a second, smaller and lower rise to the east, from where views open up of the Baroque St. Peter’s church in the old town.

The final stop is the small hill called Voljči hrib, from where there are magnificent panoramic views of the Karavanke mountains, the Radovljica Plains, over Radovljica itself, and the Julian Alps in the distance. There’s a bench at the top, too, where you can soak up the views.

By the way, I took these photos a couple of weeks ago (yes, it’s taken me that long to find time to get round to putting this blog together!) and as I write, it’s raining here in Radovljica. However, I can see the snow getting lower and lower, so the mountains are, yet again, snow-capped, and we might even wake up to snow on the ground in the morning, too – boo hoo!

The best and easiest way to navigate Radovljica is to first pay a visit to the Tourist Information Centre, which is located at the entrance to Linhart Square, where you can pick up a map and the staff will be happy to point you in the direction of the viewpoints mentioned in this blog, and, of course, provide any other information you need about the area.

Almost all the COVID-related measures have been dropped now (masks are still mandatory indoors), so this year you really can start planning your trip to Slovenia, which, of course, must include a visit to Radovljica!

© Adele in Slovenia

Autumn Colours and Tastes of Radol’ca

Radol’ca, like much of the rest of Slovenia, is awash with stunning autumn colours at the moment, so if you get the chance, now is the time to visit and take a drive through the Gorenjska countryside.

This week and next will be the peak of the autumnal colours, as the leaves are dropping at a rate of knots now, so don’t miss out on this short-lived annual spectacular. Autumn is a time of mixed emotions for me; I love it because of the colours and still (usually!) relatively warm weather, but at the same time know that it means winter is on the way!

In addition to stunning colours, autumn is a time of seasonal tastes, and the annual Taste Radol’ca month of local menus, which takes place every November, is another good reason to visit. This Friday 29th October the opening event of this year’s Taste Radol’ca takes place at Vila Podvin in Mošnje, near Radovljica. It begins in the afternoon with a farmers’ market featuring local suppliers and tastings, whilst in the evening the opening dinner will be prepared by Taste Radol’ca chefs and served by waiting staff from all the nine participating restaurants.

The farmers’ market, which will run from 5pm to 7pm, is open to everyone – the more the merrier (though note that you must meet, and be able to prove, that you meet one of the RVT conditions (recovered, vaccinated, tested) – while the five-course opening dinner is a ticket-only event. Contact the Radovljica Tourist Information Centre to enquire about purchasing tickets and to find out more information about what to see and do in autumn in the Radol’ca area.

After the opening event, and right up until the end of November, you will be able to try one (or more!) of the specially prepared menus featuring local ingredients prepared by the talented Taste Radol’ca chefs at: Vila Podvin, Draga Inn, Lectar Inn, Kunstelj Inn, Gostišče Tulipan, Gostilna Avguštin, Gostilna Pr’ Tavčar, Restavracija Center and Restavracija Tabor.

On a side note, albeit still on the same theme, if you haven’t yet got round to visiting Vila Podvin – awarded a Michelin Star in both 2020 and 2021 – you might want to hot foot it there before the end of November (again, don’t forget RVT), when its eight-year chapter of exceptional success draws to a close.

But all is not lost, as one book closes and opens, as the entire Vila Podvin team will be moving to Hotel and Restaurant Linhart in Linhart Square, the heart of the old town of Radovljica, which Uroš and his business partner, Marcela, bought at the start of 2020 as a result of their offer being rejected to purchase the building in which Vila Podvin operated. The hotel, like many other places in Radovljica (Linhart Hall, Linhart Square…) is named after the well-known 18-century Slovenian playwright Anton Tomaž Linhart who lived in the neighbouring house.

So, now is the time to visit AND taste Radol’ca! Hope to see you there, or rather here, soon!

© Adele in Slovenia

A Cultural Walk Through Radovljica

Radovljica is undoubtedly best known for its small but beautiful historic old town, which is packed with cultural attractions and is where all the town’s main events take place. However, you might be surprised to learn that there are also some cultural sights elsewhere in the town, which you can see by taking a cultural walk around the town.

A good place to start is at the town library – the new multi-storey red building in Vurnik Square (Vurnikov trg) – which is just a few hundred metres from the main bus station, where in front of the library you can see a model replica of Linhart Square created by the local ceramist Urban Magušar.

From the library take the slip road (with the library to your right head in a westerly direction) to reach the junction with the Gorenjska cesta road and turn left onto the pavement on the left-hand side of the road. After cca. 100 metres you will see the Obrtna Zbornica building (Small Business Chamber) with an iron monument of Radovljica’s coat of arms with a man holding a wheel in one hand and the ‘town’ in the other.

A further 100 metres or so along the road is the Čebelica (Bee) building, which today serves as the town’s municipal administration unit. It was named after the decorative bees above the entrance.

There are also several art nouveau villas along Gorenjska cesta that are the work of the architect Danilo Fürst, a pupil of the well-known Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik. 

Your path will now lead you towards the old town, which you can reach by walking through the town park, past the unique wrought iron street lamps made by blacksmiths from Kropa, and on to see the numerous attractions in Linhart Square, from where you can also take a quick diversion to see the birthhouse of the Radovljica-born architect Ivan Vurnik.

Should you wish to extend your walk and take in a bit more history you could walk up to Obla gorica – the small hill that rises up behind the swimming pool – where you can see bunkers dating from the Rupnik Line – a system of fortifications that were built during the 1930’s by the Kingdom of Yugoslavia as a defence line on the border with the Kingdom of Italy. The strategically placed forts and bunkers were never actually used for military or defence purposes, but they at least brought residents a temporary solution to the unemployment and financial troubles which affected them due to the location of the Rapallo Border. It is said there are around 50 such bunkers located across the Jelovica plateau, Radovljica and Begunje na Gorenjskem.

Click here for full details and a map of the cultural walk.

To end, I’ll give you a brief update about the current coronavirus situation in Slovenia. Following a long (very long!) lockdown that began on 23rd October, finally this week all primary school children were able to return to school, albeit there are school holidays in one half of the country this week and in the other half next week. We are now finally allowed out of our municipalities, and all shops were able to re-open as of this Monday (though all staff have to be tested on a weekly basis). Much as I love Radovljica, after almost 4 months of not being able to leave, it’s certainly nice to have regained a sense of freedom. However, we are far from out of the woods yet; daily infection numbers are still high, though falling, and the vaccination rate seems to be agonisingly slow. All hotels/cafes/restaurants etc. are still closed, though museums and galleries are now open. Tourists are not allowed to cross the border, and only those with a valid reason are allowed to cross the border (with a negative test). So, there is some light at the end of the tunnel, but there’s still some way to get there yet. I’m sure many of you can’t wait to visit, and/or revisit, so hang on in there!

© Adele in Slovenia